tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-79126297154055417392024-02-22T00:27:59.327-08:00EpicuryanOnly eat what feeds your soul!Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.comBlogger465125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-84210935111040675962018-01-31T19:20:00.003-08:002018-01-31T19:20:57.397-08:00The Hobbit - 01/25/20182932 E. Chapman Ave<BR>
Orange, CA 92869<BR>
(714) 997-1972<BR>
<BR>
Located in a re-purposed 3 story house, The Hobbit was founded by Howard and Beverly Philippi who took over the space in 1972 and built one of the longest lived fine dining institutions in Orange County. As one might expect the name is a nod to Tolkien, as the founders were enamored of the leisurely lifestyle of the fictional race and hoped to capture a little of their joie de vivre in their restaurant.
<BR><BR>
Today their son Michael Philippi runs the restaurant and though the menu has evolved somewhat with the time, the format has remained largely unchanged. The restaurant offers a single 7-course menu that begins in the wine cellar before diners move onto their own tables where they are served seafood, a light meat, and a salad. A short intermission follows giving diners a chance to stretch their legs or hobnob with the chef before returning for sorbet, the main entrée, and dessert.
<BR><BR>
<B>Canapes</B><BR>
The evening officially kicks off at 7:00PM with champagne and hors d'oeuvres in the wine cellar. This provides guests the opportunity to casually peruse the 1,000+ bottle wine cellar and select bottles for the meal all while enjoying the plethora of small bites and a glass bubbly. Personally my favorites were the steak tartare and the puff pastry stuffed with cheese, gruyere I think, and some sort of cured meat. For those who might be overwhelmed by their choices, the sommelier, Amy Cody, and her team are there to provide recommendations.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/01_01.jpg"><BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/01_02.jpg"><BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/01_03.jpg"><BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/01_04.jpg"><BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/01_05.jpg"><BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/01_06.jpg"><BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/01_07.jpg"><BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/01_08.jpg"><BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/01_09.jpg"><BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/01_10.jpg"><BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/01_11.jpg"><BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/01_12.jpg"><BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/01_13.jpg"><BR>
<BR><BR>
<I>2012 Marcassin, Marcassin Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, Chardonnay</I><BR>
<I>2004 Heitz, Martha's Vineyard, Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon</I><BR>
In addition to having one of the most one of Orange County's finest cellars, The Hobbit's prices are among the most reasonable, with a number of bottles at or below retail. We opted to pick up a bottle of 2004 Heitz to go along with a 2012 Marcassin from my own cellar. The Marcassin was elegant and nuanced, with honeysuckle, soft white flowers, loads of citrus, stone fruit, and surprisingly little oak; a fresh and ethereal vintage that paired nicely with the Salmon, salad, and Halibut. The Heitz couldn't have been more different, with a deep nose redolent of dark fruit, earth, mint, and eucalyptus. The herbal elements bring an element of balance that keeps the wine from being too brooding.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/Wine.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Herb Roasted Salmon</B> - Israeli Couscous, Blood Orange Beurre Blanc<BR>
I've never been a huge fan of cooked salmon particularly when the fish is cooked through. Still the dense texture worked well with the buttery heft of the sauce. The Beurre Blanc was definitely the highlight of the dish simultaneously providing buttery richness and a contrasting citrus twang.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Petite Veal Osso Bucco</B> - Po Valley Black Rice, Veal Jus<BR>
The meal got heavy in a hurry with tender round of braised veal. The preparation features a classic base of rich meaty jus with moderating elements of dense forbidden rice and a smattering of fresh mirepoix vegetables that added both succulent highlights and a hint of bitterness. Sucking on the hollow bone yields a small morsel of heady marrow to finish the dish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Arugula & Endive Salad</B> - Fuyu Persimmons, Candied Pecans, Crispy Prosciutto<BR>
I thought it was odd to serve salad after the osso bucco, but timing aside, the salad was quite enjoyable. The bitterness of the greens is deftly kept in check by the persimmons and candied pecans. The prosciutto is fried to an intense crisp that provides a potent salinity to dress the rest of the dish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
Following the salad, we took a 20 minute intermission. The guests were asked to retire to one of the upstairs rooms or the patio as the staff reset the tables for the entrée
<BR><BR>
<B>Sorbet</B> - Orange<BR>
When we came back to the table, we were presented with a dollop of sorbet made from fresh oranges. The cool mild citrus was a nice pick me up 2.5 hours into the meal.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Filet of Beef en Crôute</B><BR>
The basic entrée was reminiscent of a Beef Wellington. Though I typically find filet bland, I thought this cut had enough meaty flavor particularly when coupled with the mushrooms. The thin ring of dough has a heady butteriness that compliments the simple richness of the beef. The roasted potatoes, carrots, and radishes were classic accompaniments, but it was the almost jellied slab of squash or yam, loaded with maple sweetness, that completed the dish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/06_01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Fresh Pacific Halibut</B> - Baby Bok Choy, New Year's Black Eyed Peas, Ginger Sauce<BR>
The alternative main was a perfectly cooked filet of halibut. Texturally everything was spot on, but the flavor was a bit flat and one dimensional as the ginger sauce was unfortunately muted. A splash of citrus or some spice might have worked better..
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/06_02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Almond Cake</B> - Housemade Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, Fresh Strawberry<BR>
The dessert was a moderately dense almond cake. The flavor and texture was reminiscent of a butter cake with a whiff of almond. With the addition of vanilla and tangy strawberry, the dessert is basically an extra bold strawberry short cake.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
The "contemporary continental" menu is perhaps a bit dated but the spot-on execution made the meal solidly enjoyable. At 4 hours for 7 courses, the pacing was a bit slow for my liking though I'm glad I finally made it out to The Hobbit for a dining experience from a bygone era.
<BR><BR>
With a single prix fixe menu, strict dress code, and flourishes like the wine cellar tour and intermission, The Hobbit offers an intimate dining experience that feels out of place in an era of gastropubs and share plates. Still I can see how the experience could appeal to the Orange County dining crowd. I mean, the place is still going strong after 46 years and regularly books up weeks in advance; so they must be doing something right.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/180125_hobbit/Receipt.jpg">
<BR><BR>Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-71066780820478746572017-12-16T17:10:00.000-08:002017-12-16T17:10:18.552-08:00Sushi Tanaka - 10/21/20173977 Cochran St, Ste D<BR>
Simi Valley, CA 93063<BR>
(805) 306-1374<BR>
<BR>
Having been to most of LA's top sushi restaurants I found myself looking for something new. So when I heard about Sushi Tanaka I grit my teeth and made the 75 mile drive to a tiny spot located in a nondescript strip mall in Simi Valley. I wasn't sure what to expect though I was comforted by the fact that the Chef's resume included stints at both Nobu and Shunji in LA.
<BR><BR>
Sushi Tanaka is run by Chef Sei Tanaka and his wife who serves as the spot's only front-of-house staff. The restaurant is smaller than most neighborhood sushi spots with only a tiny 7 seat bar and a handful of tables running along one side of the restaurant.
<BR><BR>
When I made the reservation, I had requested a more nigiri-heavy meal and Chef Tanaka was happy to accommodate us offering us 1 plated appetizer and 18 pieces of nigiri for $100 rather than the standard 3 plated appetizers and 13 pieces of nigiri. For those looking to splurge there is an "unlimited" option that includes delicacies like Japanese beef, live lobsters, and hairy crab.
<BR><BR>
<B>Arugula Salad</B> - Madai Sashimi, Heart of Palm, Charcoal Salt, Sudachi, Persimmon<BR>
The meal got started with a delicate salad served with a side of Madai snapper dressed with sudachi and persimmon. The fish is a nice textural contrast to the heart of palm but the sweet-sour contrast from the fruit highlight the flavor profile along with a nutty bitterness from the greens.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Kuromutsu</B> - Black Bluefish<BR>
The pink flesh was nicely charred with a blowtorch and chunk of binchotan charcoal which gave it a pleasing smokiness. The fish itself is moderately oily though there was an unexpectedly sinewy layer running just under the skin that gave the fish a pleasantly complex texture.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Aji</B> - Spanish Mackerel<BR>
This was a pleasantly minimalist rendition of Spanish Mackerel. The single strip of ginger imparts a surprisingly intense spiciness that combines with the fish's natural oil to create a slighly sweet flavor.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Sanma</B> - Pacific Saury<BR>
Most chefs tend to grill Sanma over charcoal which results in a dry tough texture but Chef Tanaka's opted for a raw preparation that still highlight's the fish's natural oiliness but with a sublime, quiveringly tender mouthfeel.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Hotate</B> - Scallop<BR>
This was a quintessential Hokkaido Scallop topped with a salty-spicy mix of charcoal salt and yuzu kocho to compliment the sweetness of the flesh.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Mirugai</B> - Geoduck<BR>
Sai-san followed up the scallop with a sliver of Geoduck though other than both being bivalves, the two pieces of shellfish were as different as could be. The Mirugai offers a much denser and firmer texture to the point of being crunchy along with a strong salinity.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Tako</B> - Octopus<BR>
Cooked Tako isn't usually my thing but this version was smoked then charred giving it a tender texture; the addition of a slightly sweet sauce gives the meat a satisfying barbecue-like flavor.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Kanpachi</B> - Amberjack<BR>
The Amberjack was on the lean side; with less oil the fish had a firmer texture and milder flavor than the typical cut of Kanpachi.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/08.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Shima Aji</B> - Striped Jack<BR>
I really appreciated having the Shima Aji follow the Kanpachi. The pink striped alabaster color and snappy texture were reminiscent of the preceding fish but the flavor had a bit more oily warmth.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/09.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Hon Maguro</B> - Bluefin Tuna<BR>
Everything about this piece screamed quintessential Akami, from the soft even texture to the mild clean flavor though I could have done with a bit more wasabi.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/10.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Toro</B> - Fatty Tuna<BR>
This was one of the best pieces of toro that I've had in a long while. The trick was to go with a wider surface area but thinner cut that coats the tongue in an ephemeral blanket of heady fish oil.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/11.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Kinmedai</B> - Golden Eye Snapper<BR>
Truffle oil and daikon aren't two ingredients I would expect to find together but their combination on the kinmedai was nothing short of majestic funky yet savory with a bit of char to boot.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/12.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Kinki</B> - Rockfish<BR>
Kinki has a viscous supple texture reminiscent of raw octopus that was quite memorable while the quick sear added depth to the normally mild white fish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/13.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Sake Zuke</B> - Kelp-marinated Salmon<BR>
Sei-san's seared kelp marinated Salmon breathes new life into the tired ordinary salmon that graces every sushi newbie's plate. The fish takes on loads more depth and character from the undertones of brine from the kelp to the nuanced smoke laced with buttery sweetness. Hands down the best salmon nigiri I've ever tasted.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/14.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Ikura</B> - Salmon Roe<BR>
Chef Tanaka throws a curveball on the classic Ikura with a dose of truffle oil. I found the flavor a bit heavy-handed and the texture of the roe was a little flabby to boot.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/15.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Uni</B> - Sea Urchin<BR>
After a rare miss with the Ikura, the meal got back on track with a perfect piece of sweet Santa Barbara Uni.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/16.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Kamasu</B> - Barracuda<BR>
The Barracuda made for a a deftly composed one-bit course blending a burst of tangy pungent plum, fragrant shiso, and a pleasing deep smoke-laced oily twang.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/17.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Amaebi</B> - Sweet Shrimp<BR>
The Amaebi is served feathered with tiny cuts to accentuate the shrimp's natural crunch. A deft brush of soy sauce accentuates the shellfish's intrinsic sweetness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/18.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Akamutsu</B> - Red Bluefish<BR>
This was one of the softer cuts of fish on the night with an almost creamy mouthfeel that throws the crunch of the black salt in sharp relief.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/19.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Kawahagi</B> - Thread-sail Filefish<BR>
This is one of Chef Sei's signature dishes, pairing a lean cut of Filefish with a lobe of sweet creamy liver. The former provides a silky supple textural base while the latter brings a seductive mouth-coating richness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/20.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Unagi</B> - Freshwater Eel<BR>
Chef Tanaka eschews the traditional sticky sweet Nitsume sauce and prefers to serve the unagi au natural. I much preferred this rendition which still has the tender fatty texture and and simple charred flavor.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/21.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Yakitoro & Uni</B> - Seared Fatty Tuna and Sea Urchin<BR>
We opted to add a couple extras to our meal. First up was a seared Toro topped with delicate lobes of uni. The warm oily fish and cool pillows of creamy uni result in a shudderingly decadent pairing that verges on sensory overload.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/22.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Seared Scallop</B> - Uni, Caviar, Truffle<BR>
Our second supplement was actually something that is included as one of the plated appetizers in the regular $100 omakase. The seared scallop comes topped with more uni and caviar with a slice of truffle to complete the dish. Not quite as overtly rich as the previous dish, there was still plenty to love about this luxurious morsel.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/23.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Tamago</B> - Egg<BR>
Of course the meal ended with a piece of Tamago. I was glad to see Chef Tanaka serves the sweet sponge cake-like variant.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/24.jpg">
<BR><BR>
I have to say Sushi Tanaka exceeded my every expectation. The fish quality is comparable to any of LA's top spots but at half the price. Chef Tanaka also nails the rice temperature and consistency perhaps a legacy of his training at Shunji. Pacing can be a bit slow as Chef Tanaka not only handles all the sushi preparation, but does all the cooking normally handled by back of the house. When the restaurant is busy, this can result in a bit of lag between pieces, though the pace picked up towards the end of the meal so if this bothers you I'd recommend a later reservation. Bottom line, if only this restaurant weren't so damn far it would undoubtedly be my go to spot for sushi.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/171021_sushi_tanaka/Receipt.jpg">
<BR><BR>Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-53205233439425918202017-11-25T16:22:00.000-08:002017-11-25T16:22:07.398-08:00Otoko - 09/30/20171603 S Congress Ave<BR>
Austin, TX 78704<BR>
(512) 920-6405<BR>
<BR>
I wouldn't have expected to find a modern Kaiseki restaurant in Austin much less one that requires diners to buy tickets in advance, but a quick look at Austin's dining scene shows a surprising plethora of Japanese restaurants. This is largely thanks to the outsize influence Uchi has had on the city since it opened in 2003. Uchi gained national renown for its marriage of traditional Japanese technique with contemporary multi-cultural flare. As a result of this reputation, many of Austin's young up and coming chefs have done a stint at either Uchi or its sibling Uchiko. This includes Paul Qui, arguably the most famous Uchi/Uchiko alum and Top Chef Season 9 winner to boot.
<BR><BR>
While Otoko might trade on Paul Qui's name, in reality his former senpai (senior) Yoshi Okai is the one who runs the show. Okai, a Kyoto native grew up helping out at his family's catering business and after a brief stop in California to study landscape architecture, wound up at Uchi where he started to learn about sushi. The heavily inked Okai looks more like a dokyun rock-star than a sushi chef(Okai is actually the lead singer in a punk band called the Kodiaks), but his easy smile and high-energy bring a comfortable casualness to the intimate dining space where he works his magic.
<BR><BR>
<B>SAKIZUKE: Kurage</B> - chayote squash, sawagani kikurage, fried shiitake, finger lime, umi budo<BR>
<I>Vazart Coquart Blanc de Blancs Champagne, France NV</I><BR>
The meal opened with a salad of chayote and fennel on a bed of jellyfish that was a study in crunchiness. On the palate the dish was a bit jarring, mixing licorice with the funky earth of the mushrooms and a bright citrus pop from the lime in a combination that never quite jelled.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170930_otoko/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>ZENSAI: Nopales</B> - itogaki, myoga, uni bottarga, ayu fish sauce<BR>
<I>Vazart Coquart Blanc de Blancs Champagne, France NV</I><BR>
The second appetizer was a much heavier salad of Nopales in a multifaceted fish sauce that was salty and pungent with a whiff of BBQ-esque smoke on the finish. Though I've never been particularly fond of Nopales, I appreciated the Southwestern flair they brought to the dish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170930_otoko/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>SUSHI: White Sea Bass</B> - irizake<BR>
<I>Villa Wolf Riesling Dry GG Forster Pechstein, Pfalz, Germany 2014</I><BR>
Unlike traditional Kaiseki, the meal immediately veers from appetizers to nigiri. Our first piece of sushi was a sliver of firmly textured sea bass. The fish was seasoned with, an old-school "soy" sauce of rice wine, shaved bonito flakes, and pickled plums popular during the Edo period that added a gentle persistent fishiness to the traditionally mild bass.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170930_otoko/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>SUSHI: Kanpachi</B> - lemon zest<BR>
<I>Villa Wolf Riesling Dry GG Forster Pechstein, Pfalz, Germany 2014</I><BR>
Next up was a stellar example of Amberjack. The mild oily flavor is tinged with a sweet butteriness that played beautifully with the citrus-y zip of the fresh zest.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170930_otoko/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>SUSHI: Shigoku Oyster</B> - yuzu ponzu, smoked steelhead roe<BR>
<I>Villa Wolf Riesling Dry GG Forster Pechstein, Pfalz, Germany 2014</I><BR>
Shigokus have always been one of my favorite oysters on account of their creamy body and delicate melon-y character. Unfortunately the flavor of the oyster was overpowered by the one-two punch of salt from the ponzu and smoked roe.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170930_otoko/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>SUSHI: Mishima Wagyu</B> - negimiso, chives<BR>
<I>Villa Wolf Riesling Dry GG Forster Pechstein, Pfalz, Germany 2014</I><BR>
I am more used to seeing a light sear on Wagyu but Chef Okai spent a long time lovingly torching each slice over a bed of binchotan. The extra time worked wonders with the skirt steak by highlighting the cut's intrinsic beefiness while imparting a wonderful smokiness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170930_otoko/06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>SUSHI: Hirame</B> - yuzu<BR>
<I>Villa Wolf Riesling Dry GG Forster Pechstein, Pfalz, Germany 2014</I><BR>
After a quartet of inventive nigiri, Chef Okai opted for a classic but effective pairing of salt and yuzu on the halibut.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170930_otoko/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>SUSHI: Aji</B> - black sesame<BR>
<I>Villa Wolf Riesling Dry GG Forster Pechstein, Pfalz, Germany 2014</I><BR>
Chef Okai served up a supple of minimally dressed Aji with just a dash of salt and black sesame. The result was a pointed clean oiliness finshed with a hint of nuttiness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170930_otoko/08.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>SUSHI: Hon Maguro</B> - wasabi<BR>
<I>Villa Wolf Riesling Dry GG Forster Pechstein, Pfalz, Germany 2014</I><BR>
Okai has somehow procured Kindai tuna, a more sustainably sourced form of the prized Bluefin. Okai smartly sticks with the classics here and the familiar flavor of wasabi and soy are somehow elevated when paired with the slightly rich twang of the Bluefin. Add to that the smooth even mouthfeel of the fish and you have the makings of a top notch Akami.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170930_otoko/09.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>SUSHI: Hokkaido Uni</B> - fresh wasabi, white sturgeon caviar<BR>
<I>Domaine Jean-Max Roger Rosé, Pinot Noir Sancerre Loire Valley, France 2016</I><BR>
The lush creamy roe oozed rich salinity with a creeping sweetness and while the caviar fit nicely, the salt was just a hair too strong.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170930_otoko/10.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>SUSHI: Madai</B> - sakura koji, matcha oil<BR>
<I>Domaine Jean-Max Roger Rosé, Pinot Noir Sancerre Loire Valley, France 2016</I><BR>
The final nigiri of the night was an alabaster cut of madai drizzled with a verdant matcha-infused oil. The delicate flavor of the snapper was a good base for the subtle nuttiness of the oil and floral notes of the cherry blossom.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170930_otoko/11.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>MUKOUZUKE: Ocean Trout</B> - ponzu, dino kale, lemon basil, frozen tomatoes<BR>
<I>Domaine Jean-Max Roger Rosé, Pinot Noir Sancerre Loire Valley, France 2016</I><BR>
Moving on from the nigiri, we were presented with a summery composed sashimi presentation. The tangy ponzu and high fat content of the trout worked together nicely with the fresh basil and icy rush of the tomatoes.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170930_otoko/12.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>MUKOUZUKE: Black Cod</B> - fresh onion, ginger, sumiso, shiso, dried shimeji<BR>
<I>Domaine Jean-Max Roger Rosé, Pinot Noir Sancerre Loire Valley, France 2016</I><BR>
The ever popular miso Black Cod has always been a bit heavy handed in my opinion but I quite enjoyed Okai-san's more complex presentation. He deftly tempers the buttery sweetness with a soft herbal fragrance and hint of earthy savor.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170930_otoko/13.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>YAKIMONO: Eryngii Mushroom</B> - purslane, sudachi juice, morokyu, fried glass noodles<BR>
<I>Château Thivin Gamay Bruilly, Beaujolais Burgundy, France 2015</I><BR>
This course veered from flavor to flavor in rapid-fire fashion, sweet and nutty one minute, then bright acid the next. Sadly the only flavor that was missing was the mushroom though they did provide a pleasing slick squid-like texture.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170930_otoko/14.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>YAKIMONO: Binchotan</B> - hamachi, smoked tamari sauce<BR>
<I>Château Thivin Gamay Bruilly, Beaujolais Burgundy, France 2015</I><BR>
Fittingly the headline of this course is the charcoal and indeed it is all about the Binchotan. Chef Okai plates and dresses the thick slabs of yellowtail, pulls out a piece of red hot charcoal from the grill, and taps each piece of fish sending up wisps of smoke that fill the room with a woody smoke tinged with umami from the fish oils. Technically the fish itself is enjoyable, but largely a blunt sledgehammer of smoke though the fennel and olive oil help matters somewhat.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170930_otoko/15.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>MUSHIMONO: Gomadofu</B> - bubu arare, ikura, yuzu zest, black truffle oil<BR>
<I>Domain Louis Bovard Chasselas, "Mèdinette" Dèzaley Grand Cru, Vaud, Switzerland 2013</I><BR>
I've been warming to sesame tofu of late. The neutral nutty block is a perfect vehicle for whatever flavors the chef sees fit to pair, in this case the truffle oil and yuzu. The bubu arare really pops here like a savory cereal dippin dots.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170930_otoko/16.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>AGEMONO: Tempura</B> - okra, sansho<BR>
<B>AGEMONO: Tempura</B> - ovoli mushroom, sal de gusano<BR>
<I>Domain Louis Bovard Chasselas, "Mèdinette" Dèzaley Grand Cru, Vaud, Switzerland 2013</I><BR>
Next we were presented with two types of vegetable tempura, the first was a Japanese-influenced take on fried okra. The Italian Ovoli mushroom was definitely the more memorable of the duo, with a deep earthiness tinged with sweet yeastiness of the freshly fried batter.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170930_otoko/17.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>SHIRUMONO: Kyuri Gazpacho</B> - koebi, mango, Thai chili, mint, pine nut<BR>
<I>Maximin Grünhäser Riesling Auslese Herrenberg, Mosel, Germany 2011</I><BR>
The cool cucumber gazpacho was a nice follow-up to the hefty tempura. The verdant broth is unabashedly tangy with layers of heat and sweetness to keep the dish from being too astringent. The shrimp was a touch overdone and in my opinion superfluous to the cohesiveness of the dish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170930_otoko/18.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>MIZUMONO: Persimmon</B> - nectarine, apple<BR>
<I>Maximin Grünhäser Riesling Auslese Herrenberg, Mosel, Germany 2011</I><BR>
The simple fruit intermezzo was especially effective with the sweetness of the fruit standing in sharp relief to the acidity of the Gazpacho.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170930_otoko/19.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>KANMI: Natsu no Hibiki</B> - (harmony of summer)<BR>
<I>Maximin Grünhäser Riesling Auslese Herrenberg, Mosel, Germany 2011</I><BR>
The final dessert was as much a feast for the eyes as for the palate. The prickly pear ice cream rests atop a bed of frozen sushi rice milk with the latter providing a creamy even temper to the unabashed florid flavor of the cacti. The bits of avocado and mochi tempura bring a hint of savor and substance that round out the frozen elements in the bowl.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170930_otoko/20.jpg">
<BR><BR>
From the moment that you step into the dining room at Otoko you are in for a treat well worth the $150 ticket price. While not all the dishes worked for me, I certainly appreciated the irreverent creativity that went into them. It is that combination of ambition and high-octane punk-rock flair that landed Okai a spot on Food & Wine's list of best new chefs for 2017.Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-40038444963797913352017-10-03T22:25:00.000-07:002017-10-03T22:25:34.702-07:00Dialogue - 09/27/20171315 3rd Street Promenade<BR>
Santa Monica, CA 90401<BR>
<BR>
Dialogue, the tasting menu-only restaurant from Chef David Beran is easily one of this year's most exciting restaurant openings. Chef Beran cut his teeth at both Tru and Alinea. In 2011 he was tapped as the executive chef of Grant Achatz's new restaurant Next. He lead the ambitious new restaurant through 15 different menus, earning a slew of James Beard nominations and a couple awards. In April 2016, Chef Beran served his final meal at Next before striking out on his own.
<BR><BR>
Following the trend pioneered by Achatz and Kokonas at Next, Dialogue requires guests to purchase tickets in advance of the meal. With only 18-seats spread across a handful of tables and a bar overlooking the kitchen, it makes sense that the restaurant lacks the ability take on the burden of no shows.
<BR><BR>
Beran adopts the Kaiseki philosophy of tasting the seasons and his menu starts with a springtime levity , before transitioning to a hearty summer warmth, and finishing with the flavors of fall.
<BR><BR>
<B>"Springtime for Sean"</B><BR>
Caviar is a great start to any meal whether served with traditional accoutrements or as a composed dish as we have here. The Osctra Caviar is paired with fresh basil, charred scallions, and peanuts two ways. The basil jumps out immediately laced with a twang of lime. The smoky-bittersweet scallions follow while the peanuts bring a lovely textural component soft boiled nuts and a dense creamy butter. The caviar overlays a nutty salinity over the entire dish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>roasted banana tea, browned butter, peanut</B><BR>
Chef Beran has a penchant for aging his own vinegar which made several appearances throughout the meal. First up was a shot of roasted banana vinegar (I didn't even know that was a thing) topped with a brown butter and peanut foam. The vinegar has a light tang tempered by the aroma of the ripened cooked fruit. The vinegar really shines when the foam comes into play bringing with it a savory-sweet toffee essence turning the tipple into a liquid Bananas Foster.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>blackberry thermidor, short rib, bone marrow</B><BR>
The third course was markedly heavier than the first two with a creamy base of blackberry thickened with bone marrow. A bit of short rib centers the dish with a meaty holiday-roast like heft. A bit of cooked fruit add a pop of tart sweetness and the croutons provide an element of structure.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>fennel, white peach and rose vinegar</B><BR>
The next two courses were intentionally designed to be completed by the wine pairing, a white blend that brings a bright juicy acidity. While I appreciated the soft notes of jammy peach and flowers, the fennel definitely stands out with a pungent licorice flavor. The acid from the wine does help matters but the bit still felt unbalanced.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>dragon fruit, scented with roses from early spring</B><BR>
With my palate still reeling from the fennel, the dragon fruit had almost no flavor. Chewing on the soft mild block of fruit I kept waiting for something to happen, but alas, whatever was supposed to happen was lost on me.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>king crab, popcorn, orchid, earl grey</B><BR>
For Chef Beran, roses always marked the end of spring and popcorn was evocative of summer evenings. The crab meat is covered in a subtly fragrant floral perfume. The crumbled popcorn comes through loud and clear; a beautiful compliment to the sweet crab meat.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>"burnt lettuce that thinks it's a peanut"</B><BR>
Som Tum or green papaya salad has always been one of my favorite Thai dishes. This elegantly minimalist Som Tum has the traditional elements of papaya, chili, lime and sugar with one key difference; the peanut has been replaced with charred lettuce. Despite this change, the flavor profile is eerily faithful to the classic recipe.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>96 hour koji plum, fresh yuba, thai basil</B><BR>
Two words: "Sugar Smacks." That's how Chef Beran described our next dish. Using their kitchen wizardry, Beran and his team have converted plum, soy, and basil into cereal. Toasted soy beans provide the starch while the fermented plum completes the illusion with an eerie caramel savory sweetness
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/08.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>squab, thai long peppercorn crème fraiche, begonia</B><BR>
The squab was served two ways, a sublimely supple breast and lusty hash. The breast is perfectly cooked with a bit of extra flavor from the skin and a creeping hint of parsley. The hash has much more meaty richness up front but finishes with a lactic creamy tang and faint whisper of heat.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/09.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>bitter chocolate, cherry, preserved sakura</B><BR>
The chocolate has a dark bitterness and bright red fruit center that paired nicely with the lingering flavors of squab. This dish is something of a psychological experiment, with 76% dark chocolate the filling flavored solely with cherry juice, there isn't much sugar in this course, but we're so conditioned to think of chocolate as a dessert or candy that most diners are taken aback when its served in the middle of the meal.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/10.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>"the sobering of rhubarb"</B><BR>
Along with the chocolate came a couple pieces of dehydrated rhubarb. The texture was more akin to fruit leather, the dense chewy "chip" has a tendency to get stuck in the teeth, which as it turned out was by design, with the remnants of this course needed to flavor the next.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/11.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>choy sum, strawberry nahm prick, cashew</B><BR>
Choy Sum, a mainstay of many Cantonese restaurants, was a regular part of my diet growing up, but I don't think I've ever had it served raw. The vegetable is laced with a strawberry chili sauce that was simultaneously sweet, funky, and spicy; a bold accompaniment to the fresh succulence of the green.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/12.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>pork belly, nasturtium, strawberry sambal</B><BR>
Chef Beran generously described this course as a "salad" but it was the stuff beneath the leafy nasturtium that stole the show. The tender slab of decadent pork belly gets a tangy lift from the jammy strawberry as well as the funky heft of the sambal.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/13.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>black cod, yuzu kosho beurre blanc, sea grape</B><BR>
This was another of the psychological experiments. Diners either feel the dish is Japanese or French depending on the flavors the staff chooses to highlight. Indeed, with my focus diverted to the heady beurre blanc, the distinctive flavor of the yuzu kocho registered only as a vague sourness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/14.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>"everything is burnt"</B><BR>
With this course the Dialogue crew deftly recreate the feeling of a backyard barbecue, the quintessential capstone to summer and an appropriate way to welcome the onset of fall. The plate of monochromatic ingredients doesn't look particularly appetizing but the mix of smoke, onion, and soy was so eerily familiar to the family cookouts I had as a child that I couldn't help but feel an instant affinity for this course.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/15.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>french onion soup, rosemary aroma</B><BR>
Ironically the savory portion of the meal wound down with re-imagined versions of classic soup and salad recipes. Inside the cheese covered puff was a concoction of rich sweet onions.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/16.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>"memories of a tomato salad"</B><BR>
The shot of salad was centered around a tomato gelee. The bright summery morsel has a beautiful tomato fragrance contrasted by a peppery nuttiness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/17.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>whipped persimmon, lemon shortbread, hibiscus sugar</B><BR>
Our first dessert was a tangy lemon shortbread topped with a sweet persimmon frosting. The sweet and sour flavors complimented each other quite well.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/18.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>ages of seedling farms apples, miso caramel</B><BR>
Moving firmly into fall, this was one of my favorite courses of the evening. The core of the dish is the familiar interplay of a caramel apple with a consistent even savor from the miso. The dish is augmented with a rapid-fire melange of textures
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/19.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>"an autumn morning"</B><BR>
The red and white color of this dish along with the prominently placed leaf, gave our last dessert an unintentional Canadian feel. The flavors were indeed autumnal with a pumpkin spiced ice cream and toasty pepitas. The leaf had an oddly tangy flavor to it that helped cut the heft of the pumpkin.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/20.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>"a carrot pulled from the snow"</B><BR>
The petit four consisted of a cooked carrot tossed in a sugar frost. My girlfriend B aptly dubbed this a paleo churro.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170927_dialogue/21.jpg">
<BR><BR>
Given Beran's resume, I had super high expectations for Dialogue and I'm happy to say that the meal easily met them. Despite his stellar resume, Beran comes across as very approachable; confident yet self-effacing. Beran and his crew engage with diners as much as they want to be engaged. A couple engrossed in conversation will receive a different level of explanation with each course than say a couple of food bloggers and their friends who are intently following the action in the kitchen and hanging off chef's every word.
<BR><BR>
At one point, Beran explained his goal was for guests to focus on each other with the meal as one element of their experience, a catalyst to generate dialogue. To that end the meal leverages elements of narrative, psychology, and of course the avant-garde techniques Beran honed over the past decade in some of America's finest kitchens.Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-60214962163762313982017-08-11T11:25:00.001-07:002017-08-11T11:25:15.890-07:00The Restaurant at Meadowood - 07/01/2017900 Meadowood Ln<BR>
St Helena, CA 94574<BR>
(707) 967-1205<BR>
<BR>
Perhaps its the location or the growing number of world-class restaurants in the city, but I've always felt that the Restaurant at Meadowood has been the forgotten son of the Bay Area fine dining scene. Certainly Meadowood has long dwelled in the shadow of its more famous neighbor to the south, The French Laundry. It speaks volumes that Michelin didn't even rate Meadowood when the guide first came to the Bay Area. It wasn't until the next year that Meadowood got on the board with a 2 star rating that was upgraded to 3 in 2011. I visited the restaurant back in 2010 and its been on my list for an encore ever since it netted star number 3. Though full disclosure, I tried to get a table at Atelier Crenn, Benu, Manresa, and Saison before looking towards Meadowood.
<BR><BR>
<B>field peas</B><BR>
The tasting menu at Meadowood kicks off with a number of small bites. First up was a delicate melange of peas full of crunch and fresh grassy verve.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170701_meadowood/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>squash blossom</B><BR>
The second snack consisted of a fried squash blossom shaped into a crunchy taco shell. The shell is filled primarily with pickled pepper on a bed a squash puree. The combination deftly mimics the savory flavor of a traditional taco topped with bright fresh pico de gallo
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170701_meadowood/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>oyster kohlrabi</B><BR>
The final snack consisted of a beautifully shaped Miyagi oyster from Marin County topped with mignonette and kohlrabi. The bivalve opens with a fairly assertive salinity followed by a pickled twang and hint of herbaceousness that brings out a melon-y character in the oyster.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170701_meadowood/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>daylily soup, caviar, radish</B><BR>
Moving into the larger courses we started with a vivid yellow daylily broth topped with a melange of radishes and herbs. The broth unsurprisingly has little flavor, instead it is the astringency of the radish that dominates. The quinelle of California Sturgeon caviar has a focused salnity on its own, but the rest of the dish rounds out the rough edges and leaves behind a gentle butteriness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170701_meadowood/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>sunflower pasta, spot prawn</B><BR>
The meal took a markedly heavier turn with this immensely satisfying handmade pasta. The pasta itself is perfectly al dente and stuffed with a satisfyingly toothsome spot prawn filling. The prawns also feature prominently in the sauce giving the dish an ethereal salinity and smoky buttery heft tempered by the bitter succulents.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170701_meadowood/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>foievocado, chrysanthemum, dill</B><BR>
The next course was an ultra-luxe take on avocado toast. The creamy perfectly-ripened fruit is filled equally creamy foie gras threaded with charred herbs. The herbs are crucial here bringing a smokiness contrast to the richer elements of the dish. The accompanying toast is given equal care and exudes a heady fragrance of fresh bread and butter. If regular avocado toast were really this good I'd definitely be homeless.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170701_meadowood/06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>halibut, unripe plum</B><BR>
This was probably the most memorable course of the night. The halibut is cured, dramatically reducing the water content and radically altering the appearance. The halibut takes on a visually striking appearance more akin to a block of pink Himalayan rock salt than a piece of white fish. Biting into the fish is an equally enchanting experience, sumptuously dense texture and an gentle even salinity with subtle undertones of umami. The unripened plum adds a slight preserved funk and sweet-sour twang though personally I liked the fish better without it.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170701_meadowood/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>abalone iridescence</B><BR>
The braised abalone is suffused with loads of briny umami and a delightfully tender texture. The slice of abalone is topped with a translucent leaf of wilted bitter greens for contrast and a sauce that brings with a little porcine richness with it.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170701_meadowood/08.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>squab tea</B><BR>
Along with a presentation of our squab, we were given a whimsical "squab tea" as a little intermezzo before the meat courses. The simple clear broth was reminiscent of a potent chicken consomme. The broth helped wash the flavors of the previous dishes and prime the palate for the courses ahead.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170701_meadowood/09_01.jpg">
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170701_meadowood/09_02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>squab baked in calistoga clay</B><BR>
The baked squab is finished with a quick sear then spliced and served up with a black cherry glaze and pickled mustard. On its own the thin slices of breast are wonderfully tender slivers of smoke and char. The sauce and dressing bring a tight sour brightness and verdant brightness to the powerfully rich bird.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170701_meadowood/10.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>beef smoked in dry onion tops</B><BR>
The cut of beef came from a Wagyu breed raised in Colorado. The meat was smoked with onion and garlic and dressed with a sauce of beef fat, black garlic and finished with a pearly dollop of onion soubise. Imbuing the beef with common flavors found in the accompaniments deftly highlights the beef's natural flavor and richness without over complicating matters.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170701_meadowood/11.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>cereal of pinecones, toasted grains, raspberries</B><BR>
Our first dessert was a whimsical play on breakfast using baby pinecones to mimic a bowl of cereal with "milk" and berries. The overall effect was eerily reminiscent of a bowl of Lucky Charms with bright fresh fruit flavors and a simple comforting appeal. One of the evening's standouts and easily the best dessert I've eaten all year.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170701_meadowood/12.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>eggplants foster</B><BR>
The second dessert was a play on the classic bananas foster with an eggplant marinated in sugar then confited in butter giving the vegetable a texture very reminiscent of cooked bananas and heady salted caramel-esque flavor edged with a vegetal bitterness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170701_meadowood/13.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>preserved fruits</B><BR>
A quintet of fruit-based candies ended the evening.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170701_meadowood/14.jpg">
<BR><BR>
I visited the restaurant back in 2010, but found the experience wanting. The food was polished but felt somehow unsatisfying. This meal has the same level of elegance that I remember but with a bit more soul and creativity; delicately balancing the emphasis on lighter Californian flavors with flashes of lusty deeper flavor.
Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-64432472582918953992017-06-26T22:55:00.001-07:002017-06-26T22:55:13.803-07:00The Rogue Experience - 06/21/20178687 Melrose Ave<BR>
West Hollywood, CA 90069<BR>
<BR>
A couple months back Wolfgang Puck opened what is likely his smallest restaurant. Tucked away in a hard to find corner of the Pacific Design Center, The Rogue Experience serves as a test kitchen with executive chefs from across Puck's global empire coming for week long stints. The space provides an opportunity for the chefs to break out of their comfort zones, experiment with flavors and dishes that might not fit their day jobs, and exchange ideas with their peers.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170621_rogue/Exterior.jpg">
<BR><BR>
When guests first enter the test kitchen, they are greeted by host David Evers who invites the diners relax in the comfortably appointed living area while he whips up a market-driven cocktail.
<BR><BR>
<I>Ham and Melon</I> - Mezcal, Melon Ice, Iberico Salt<BR>
Our welcome cocktail was inspired by the classic combination of ham and melon. Using mezcal as the base liquor gives the drink a hefty smoke that works well with the fatty funk of the salt. The ice cube is made from the 3 types of melon juice that has been concentrated through the use of a rotary evaporator. The drink rewards the patient as the dry woody elements of the mezcal are slowly countered by the addition of ultra-saccarine melon juice.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170621_rogue/Cocktail.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>ABALONE | PORCINI | TURNIP</B><BR>
This was the first of two snacks the kitchen presented as we sipped our cocktails. The tart crust was surprisingly dense but with a pointed butteriness that played well with the one-two punch of earthiness from the abalone and mushrooms.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170621_rogue/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>RAMPS | BEAN CURD | SEA VEGETABLES</B><BR>
Our second morsel was a classic gougere twisted with a dusting of saline nori and finishing with lingering onion-y flavor from the ramps.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170621_rogue/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
Like most restaurants, Rogue offers a wine pairing with their tasting menu but here it comes with one unique feature: it's bottomless! Given the meal is limited to a maximum of 8 guests, it makes sense to open a limited number of bottles and allow the diners to drink their fill. While this means lightweights can't split a wine pairing, it does allow diners to enjoy their wine without making sure to ration it throughout multiple courses.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170621_rogue/Wines.jpg">
<BR><BR>
With the snacks and drinks done with, we were given a brief tour of the kitchen before being brought to a narrow kitchen counter where the chefs whipped up delectable creations right before our eyes.
<BR><BR>
<B>AMBERJACK | MELON | PEANUTS</B><BR>
The meal kicked off with a bowl of paper thin slices of raw amberjack. The super thin slices have a markedly softer texture while the peppers and peanuts give the dish a spicy Thai-like verve.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170621_rogue/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>GOMA DOFU | SEAWEED | BLOOD ORANGE KOSHO</B><BR>
Goma Dofu is made from sesame paste instead of soy. The resulting texture is slightly firmer than traditional silken tofu with a slight creaminess to boot. The use of sesame adds a slight flavor though the tofu still absorbs plenty of flavor from its companions, in this case a light savory dashi punctuated with a countervailing acidity from the citrus.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170621_rogue/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>SPOT PRAWN | GREEN CHILE | ONIGIRI</B><BR>
This was arguably my favorite course of the night and leveraged every part of the prawn. The body was served perfectly cooked in a European-style redolent of butter and pepper. The grilled rice ball had a nice bit of crunchy char and a heady saline funk from prawn innards. The course finishes with a dashi flavored with cherry blossom soy sauce and tinged red with powdered prawn shells.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170621_rogue/05.jpg">
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170621_rogue/06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>AVOCADO | CHANTERELLE | SORGHUM</B><BR>
The baby avocados came fresh from the local farmer's market. The perfectly fresh creamy avocado has a mild verdant flavor brightened by the pickled twang of the chanterelle and the toasty aroma of the puffed sorghum.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170621_rogue/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>SWEET CORN | JAPANESE UNI | FISCALINI</B><BR>
This was another of the night's standouts featuring a base of silky smooth creamed corn and a dense nugget of sea urchin roe. A light shaving of 2-year old cheddar from Fiscalini adds a bit of nutty pungency to balance the heft of the corn.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170621_rogue/08.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>AKAYAGARA | BLT</B><BR>
The beltfish was one of the most visually appealing courses of the night. The golden brown top looked reminiscent of perfectly toasted bread. The mild white flesh is fork-tender and a delightful canvas for the playful BLT particularly the interplay between the tomato and bacon.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170621_rogue/09.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>GRAPES | SABLE | SPRUCE</B><BR>
The heavier fish course uses fresh spring ingredients to create Autumnal vibe. The base was a fatty slab of spruce-smoked Sablefish. The aggressive smoke is tempered by marinated grapes designed to taste like cranberries. A course of extremes, this was a fun concept, but needed some refinement.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170621_rogue/10.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>FOIE | MONKFISH LIVER | SUMMER FRUITS</B><BR>
Next up was a duo of livers. The classic foie terrine had a textbook texture and classic sweet fruit to compliment the buttery liver. Likewise, the Ankimo was dressed with textbook flavors of sweet miso that pair well with the aggressive caviar-like salinity of the monkfish liver.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170621_rogue/11.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>A5 | POTATO SALAD</B><BR>
The final savory of the evening was a perfectly done A5 New York strip. The seductive pink flesh is threaded with plenty of heady fat and sandwiched between two layers of perfect char. A medley of humble potato salad seasoned with dill and onion serves as a simple straightforward side lets the succulent beauty of the steak shine.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170621_rogue/12.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>OLIVE OIL PANNA COTTA | MULBERRIES | APRICOT SORBET</B><BR>
I've never run across an olive oil dessert that I didn't love and this was no different. The exotic fragrance of the olive oil is enriched with a multifaceted bouquet of fruit from the jammy apricot to the slightly astringent mulberries.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170621_rogue/13.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>GUANAJA GANACHE | BING CHERRIES | BOURBON CAVIAR</B><BR>
The final course was a veritable showcase of modernist techniques from the flexible ganache to the aerated brioche. Taste-wise the chocolate and cherries dominate though the dollops of jellied bourbon finish the dish with a nice boozy heat.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170621_rogue/14.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>MIGNARDISES</B><BR>
First up was a white chocolate bonbon with lemon that tasted uncannily like a lemon starburst. The cone consisted of classic ricotta mascarpone in a dense praline shell dusted with cinnamon. The final sweet was a dark chocolate filled with ancho that has an exotically spicy bitterness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/170621_rogue/15.jpg">
<BR><BR>
After dinner we retired back to the demo kitchen for glasses of 1992 DRC Marc de Bourgogne brandy and China China and conversation with the Rogue crew and other guests before calling it a night.
<BR><BR>
Every aspect of the Rogue Experience exudes the passion that drove the concept. With a 1-to-1 ratio between diners and guests, it seems unlikely that the restaurant will ever turn a profit, but the space wasn't designed with such base objectives in mind. Indeed the Rogue Experience is a safe space for Wolfgang and his team to push the boundaries and the resulting menu is a celebration of that creative process.
<BR><BR>
The Rogue Experience is only open three nights a week with 8 seats per night so as word gets out I have no doubt it will soon become one of the city's toughest tables.Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-32341011481506880982016-11-22T20:20:00.000-08:002016-11-22T20:20:05.446-08:00T'ang Court - 11/07/20168 Peking Rd. Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong<BR>
+852 2132 7898<BR>
<BR>
With two days in Hong Kong it would have been a sacrilege not to try one of the island's two 3 star Cantonese restaurants. Given the last-minute nature of the trip, we were left with few options so we settled on a lunchtime reservation at T'ang court. Fortunately when we arrived we were informed the restaurant offers its full menu at lunch as well as dinner. The dinner menu features several tasting menus as well as a bevy of a la carte options. My girlfriend and I each opted for the One Person Set Menu which our waiter said was the best way for two people to fully experience the chef's cooking. Sadly we didn't get to try the restaurant's dim sum offering but there's always next time.
<BR><BR>
<B>Baked Stuffed Crab Shell with Crab Meat and Onion</B><BR>
First up was a crab shell stuffed with shredded crab meat, cream, and onion then baked in a golden crust. Breaking through the crispy exterior revealed a rich creamy mass of shredded crab and onions. Our server made a point to stress the crab meat was fresh (which should be a given at this price point) and indeed the vibrant salinity seemed to back up his assertion. The bits of onion do a nice job adding a bit of sweet zest to the potent heft of the crab.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161107_tang_court/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Double Boiled Fish Maw, Chicken and Sea Whelk in Yunnan Ham Soup</B><BR>
The soup course consisted of a light broth of chicken and ham, infused with a clean vivid umami from the fish maw and whelk that was very reminiscent of a milder version of shark's fin soup. The soup comes filled with the constituent ingredients for some textural contrast but having been thoroughly boiled there wasn't much flavor to any of them.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161107_tang_court/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Braised whole abalone with Bêche-de-Mer and seasonal vegetables</B><BR>
This course was quintessential Cantonese luxury. The abalone was braised to a uniformly supple and tender texture with a deep aggressive salinity while the sea cucumber had a silky gelatin like texture both coated in a glorious golden brown sauce. Like the seafood, the accompanying vegetables were cooked perfectly and the resulting texture was tender but still retained a bit of crispy snap while the subdued bitter flavor was a pleasant contrast to the multifaceted savor of the abalone and sea cucumber.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161107_tang_court/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Pan-fried Sliced Spot Garoupa with Soya Sauce</B><BR>
I was looking forward to the fish from the moment I saw it on the menu and the fragrant aroma that accompanied it had me salivating in anticipation. The thick dense flakes are wrapped in a delicately thin crispy layer that is beautifully infused with soy sauce. Though my tastes tend to run toward lighter density fish the perfectly fried grouper was a very welcome change of pace.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161107_tang_court/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>E-fu Noodles with Sliced Lobster in Lobster Head and Claw Stock</B><BR>
I've never been a fan of lobster E-fu noodles, as I typically find both the noodle and lobsters a bit overcooked and mushy. I had high hopes that T'ang Court would be the restaurant to break that trend but they only partially succeeded. The lobster was a touch overcooked but the noodles had a much firmer texture and the lobster stock and scallions made for a delightful accompaniment to the noodles.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161107_tang_court/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Fresh Fruit and T'ang Court Delight</B><BR>
The fresh fruit was somewhat underwhelming, not particularly sweet and a touch under ripe, but the desserts were quite enjoyable. First up was a red bean in gelatin over a green tea base that presented the classic flavors in a unique textural package. Besides that was a little morsel of coconut and some unidentified filling that was sweet and paired nicely with the fresh coconut flavor.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161107_tang_court/06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
Our meal at T'ang Court was the most complete Chinese dining experience I've ever had, but despite that I still was left a bit wanting. The one-person tasting menu is a touch seafood heavy but I suppose that can't be helped given the Chinese emphasis on ingredients over technique. That isn't to say that the cooking lacked technique, indeed this is one of the most polished Cantonese meals that I've ever tasted. All of the dishes were perfectly executed, the service was warm and attentive, and the decor was both elegant yet inviting, but for all of that I never really felt the wow factor that made me feel like I was dining at a 3 Michelin Star restaurant.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161107_tang_court/Receipt.jpg">
<BR><BR>Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-54634138612088827472016-10-27T02:05:00.001-07:002017-11-25T16:22:19.523-08:00Sushi of Gari - 10/18/20166201 Hollywood Blvd<BR>
Los Angeles, CA 90028<BR>
(323) 400-6300<BR>
<BR>
Despite being something of a sushi fiend, my experience is decidedly Los Angeles-centric so when I heard Sushi of Gari, a Michelin-starred transplant from New York, it was an easy must try. My friends and I came for a late dinner after the pre-show Pantages crowd had left and we pretty much had the place all to ourselves.
<BR><BR>
<B>Kuromutsu Nambanzuke</B> - Bluefish<BR>
This was a rather traditional preparation of Nambanzuke, the fish is first fried then marinated in vinegar and soy sauce and served chilled, resulting in firm dense flakes of fish infused with a light tang of sweet soy and vinegar.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Hagashi Toro</B> - Fatty Tuna with Ground Daikon<BR>
Hagashi Toro is a relative rarity on account of the amount of labor that goes into it. The meat comes from a sinewy part of this fish and requires a great deal of effort to extract. The resulting morsel wasn't as opulent as an Otoro but still had plenty of flavor and a more complex delicate texture. The dollop of daikon added an upfront pungent sharpness that further balanced the fish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Tai</B> - Snapper with Pine Nuts, Green Leaf, Lotus Root, and Sprouts<BR>
The snapper was one of the most impressive bites of the night, coated in a slick oily pesto and topped with vegetables and leaves that exhibited a complex blend of fresh zesty verdance and an earthy nutty flavor.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Yukima</B> - Snow Trout with Applesauce<BR>
This was my first experience with snow trout and the fish doesn't disappoint with a pillow-y litheness that was an absolute textural joy. I was a bit taken aback by the decision to pair the fish with applesauce but the Nagano apples worked well imparting a mix of smoke and gentle fruit-laden sweetness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Amaebi</B> - Sweet Shrimp with Yuzu Miso<BR>
The sweet shrimp came with a more conventional topping of yuzu infused miso. The raw Spot Prawn was a touch softer than I'd have liked but still quite delicious especially with the enveloping aroma of fresh citrus.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Sawara</B> - King Mackerel with Mushroom Sauce<BR>
The grilled Sawara was keenly enjoyable. The fattiness of the fish develops a pointed smokiness deftly augmented by the earthy mushroom. Besides the charred smoky exterior, the raw mackerel has a distinct warm fleshiness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Shima Aji</B> - Skipjack with Jalapeno<BR>
The Shima Aji was another of the evening's standouts. The bits of diced jalapeno are the perfect foil for the fish, succulent crispness to balance the jellied snap of the Aji and pinpricks of heat to counter the oily heft of the fish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Sake</B> - Salmon with Sauteed Tomato<BR>
Despite sounding positively pedestrian this was arguably my favorite bite of the night. The warm topping of soft tomato explodes with a blend of savor and fresh onion reminiscent of Chinese steamed fish and the warmth of the tomato helped to heighten the natural lushness of the fish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/08.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Maguro</B> - Bluefin Tuna with House-made Tofu Puree and Chili Oil<BR>
Akami is a subtle delicate fish that typically doesn't play well with others so I was surprised that the tofu and chili worked as well as it did. The mild tofu was akin to a creamy burrata while the chili oil fit surprisingly well with the fish and soybean.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/09.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Hotate</B> - Scallop with Plum Sauce<BR>
The thick slab of delicate Hokkaido scallop came topped with a pink dollop of plum sauce and the pungent flavor of the sauce coupled with the scallop's intrinsic sweet salinity was eerily similar to strawberry ice cream.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/10.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Gindara</B> - Seared Black Cod with Miso<BR>
This was arguably the most familiar course of the night the high fat content of the fish yields a pungent smoke with a sharp twang. The sweetness of the miso is apparent up front but the fish has a bitter finish that serves as an effective counterpoint.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/11.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Masaba</B> - Mackerel with Sesame<BR>
Unlike the typical Mackerel preparations, this one was marinated with soy giving it a distinct saltiness and moderating the natural fish oils.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/12.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Kinmedai</B> - Golden Eye Snapper with Kelp<BR>
The Snapper came marinated in some form of fish broth which accentuated the fish's naturally snappy texture while adding a deep-seated savoriness that was further emphasized by the umami funk of the dried kelp. Personally I think a quick sear to soften the sinewy fish would have made the dish more cohesive.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/13.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Hotate-Sote</B> - Sauteed Scallops with Parsley Sauce<BR>
I was thorough impressed by this dish, a gunkan maki filled with scallop abductor muscles that so often go to waste. The abductor often discarded on account of its tough texture, but sauteed and served with parsley the little bits were shockingly similar to a classic French escargot recipe, firm and savory with a heady aroma of herbs and garlic.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/14.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Hamachi</B> - Poached Yellowtail with Sesame Sauce<BR>
Like the salmon we had earlier, Gari's yellowtail is a wonderfully fresh take on classic nigiri fish. Ever so delicately poached, the fish has a touch more flakiness, but a supple core threaded with rendered fish oil. I appreciated the onion and radish though I could have done with less of the sesame which imparted an odd peanut butter-like flavor.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/15.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Aji</B> - Spanish Mackerel with Creamy Miso<BR>
Gari continues to defy convention, paring a rich oily Aji with sweet miso. While I appreciated the concept, the execution was a bit jarring.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/16.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Nodoguro</B> - Seared Blackthroat Seaperch with Yuzu Kocho<BR>
Also called Akamutsu, the Perch was one of the most textually interesting pieces of the night. Lightly seared on the top the fish almost has layers of texture ranging from the hard snap of the skin to a soft even fleshiness. The interplay of the smoke and fat is highlighted by the citrus bite of the yuzu kocho. Only the second truly conventional nigiri of the evening, but definitely an enjoyable one.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/17.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Ika</B> - Seared Squid with Broccoli<BR>
Easily one of the most visually distinctive squid presentations that I've ever had, the light sear gives the squid a slightly dry and tough exterior that leads to a lean snappy base. The mildly herbaceous topping didn't add much to the dish but it didn't get in the way either.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/18.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Zuwai Kani</B> - Seared Snow Crab with Sea Urchin Sauce<BR>
I've always found Snow Crab a bit stringy and less impressive than King Crab, but this preparation was absolutely sublime. The thicker cut allowed for a feathery soft texture while the flavor was a mix of cooked savor with intrinsic shellfish sweetness. The bit of cooked uni on top added a touch of pungent funk to the crab.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/19.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Sake-Tataki</B> - Seared Salmon with Japanese Fish Broth<BR>
The seared salmon was far less impressive than the earlier preparation. Made from a leaner variety of the fish, the searing imparted a dry hammy smoke fitting to the more austere texture.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/20.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Baked Oyster with Bread Crumbs and Aioli</B><BR>
With plenty of butter this was more akin to an Oysters Rockefeller than anything I would have expected to find at a sushi restaurant.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/21.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Murasaki Uni</B> - Sea Urchin with Quail Egg<BR>
Naturally we couldn't leave before trying the uni. The quail egg was a remarkably clever addition, the slick texture masking the strongest elements of the urchin roe and resulting in a balanced sweet richness that built over time.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/22.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Bafun Uni</B> - Seared Sea Urchin<BR>
The Hokkaido style uni was one of the few bites that didn't come topped with some other element and with good reason. The reddish-orange roe had a much deeper saline-focused flavor that reached new heights when kissed by the blowtorch.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/23.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Kama Toro Tataki</B> - Seared Fatty Tuna with Garlic and Ginger<BR>
After already trying the Hagashi Toro, I was exceedingly pleased when Také-san presented us with another piece of rare toro. As the name suggests, the Kama Toro comes from the area around the collar and is prized for its high fat content and deeper flavor. The searing softens the meat while simultaneously rendering some of the fat and browning the exterior, another contender for bite of the night.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/24.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Hirame</B> - Seared Halibut with Egg and Truffle Oil<BR>
Its been a while since I've had halibut with truffle and Gari's version hits all the right notes with a supple fleshy mouth feel and heady truffled musk. The silky runny yolk of the quail egg was the proverbial cherry on top, adding a viscous sensuality to the mix.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/25.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Engawa</B> - Halibut Fin<BR>
This was a specific request by our party and came with a simple brush of soy rather than the more elaborate accompaniments of many of the evening's earlier nigiri. Také-san scored the tough fin muscle to tenderize it though personally I would have preferred a quick flash of the torch to soften things up.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/26.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Seared Foie Gras with Pear Compote</B><BR>
Our final piece was a strange sight that would have been more fitting in a French restaurant. The foie was a touch dry though the restrained sweetness of the compote was a superb pairing.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/27.jpg">
<BR><BR>
I've always been leery of sushi restaurants that pair unconventional ingredients with the fish, as that seemed to be a smokescreen to hide substandard fish or a crutch to help newbies by masking the true nature of the fish. Sushi of Gari manages to pull off the use of unique accompaniments to impart unique flavors while still letting the intrinsic character of the fish shine. I did notice the rice was a touch denser than I would have liked, mildly annoying but not enough to overshadow the distinctive experience Gari offers.
<BR><BR>
I highly recommend going after the pre-theater dinner rush for a more intimate experience but do it fast as I have a feeling once word of this place gets out, it won't be so easy to find a seat.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/161018_sushi_of_gari/Receipt.jpg">
<BR><BR>Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-85693530677609544172016-10-02T02:55:00.000-07:002016-10-02T02:55:29.012-07:00Sushi Kashiba - 08/03/201686 Pine St #1<BR>
Seattle, WA 98101<BR>
(206) 441-8844<BR>
<BR>
Having spent the last 46 years on the cutting-edge of the Seattle sushi scene, Shiro Kashiba is without a doubt Seattle's godfather of sushi. Back in 1970, Shiro established the first full service sushi bar at Maneki a Japanese restaurant that dates back to the turn of the twentieth century. After working there for a couple of years, Shiro struck out on his own and opened his first restaurant, Nikko. He ran the restaurant for the better part of a generation before selling the name to the Westin in 1992. He remained with the restaurant for little more than a year before the corporate grind drove him tender his resignation. In 1994 he started the eponymous Shiro before feeling the 20-year itch and retiring again in 2014. Apparently retirement didn't sit well with the venerable Kashiba and it was little more than a year before there were rumblings of a new restaurant in the works and in late 2015 Sushi Kashiba was born.
<BR><BR>
Situated one block north of the Pike Place market the restaurant has a small a la carte seating area as well as a comfortable well appointed bar, but to get the full experience omakase at the sushi bar is a must. Seating at the bar is strictly first come first serve so though I recommend you show up before the restaurant opens or be prepared to wait.
<BR><BR>
<B>Binnaga</B> - Albacore Tuna<BR>
<B>Akami</B> - Lean Bluefin Tuna<BR>
<B>Zuke</B> - Marinated Bluefin Tuna<BR>
<B>O-Toro</B> - Fatty Bluefin Tuna<BR>
Omakase meals typically start with lighter fishes like halibut or snapper but Kashiba chose to open with a quartet of tuna. Starting on the right, we have a tender slab of albacore, the delicacy of the fish's texture is heightened by it's abundant oiliness. Besides the Albacore was a piece of classic bluefin tuna, the fish was on the lean and steely side with a soft bite of wasabi on the finish. Next up was marinated tuna, with a softer suppler texture and intrinsic salinity, this was was far superior to the standard Akami. Last but certainly not least was the toro; utterly different from its leaner cousins, the decadent oiliness suffuses the palate and lingers long after the tasty morsel is gone.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160803_sushi_kashiba/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Madai</B> - Snapper<BR>
<B>Hirame</B> - Halibut<BR>
<B>Engawa</B> - Halibut Fin<BR>
The snapper had the classic mild flavor, but was a bit flabby for my liking. The halibut was more appealing with a touch of crunchy firmness and a bold spicy bite from the pickled radish. The Engawa was by far the best of the trio with a dense muscular chewiness and deeper flavor not seen in the other two white fish nigiri.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160803_sushi_kashiba/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Beni Jake</B> - Sockeye Salmon<BR>
<B>Sake</B> - King Salmon<BR>
The duet of salmon opened with a richly colored sockeye salmon, which was markedly leaner with a touch of steeliness instead of the buttery sweetness of the more common King Salmon. Kashiba's preparation of Sake enlivens the ubiquitous sushi fish with a crisp succulent sprig of sweet onion and a nutty strip of nori.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160803_sushi_kashiba/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Sake Toro Tataki</B> - Seared Salmon Belly<BR>
If the regular salmon had plenty of oily goodness, the belly raises things to absurd levels, but the searing helps burn off some of the oil and infuses the fish with a rush of heady smoke.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160803_sushi_kashiba/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Mirugai</B> - Giant Clam<BR>
<B>Hotate</B> - Scallop<BR>
It would be a sin to visit Seattle and not have fresh Mirugai. Kashiba's preparation has a multifaceted dense yet snappy texture as well as a perfectly balanced sweet saline tension. The Hotate was a little more forward with a straightforwardly buttery sweetness as well as a silky soft texture.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160803_sushi_kashiba/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Saba</B> - Mackerel<BR>
<B>Sawara</B> - Spanish Mackerel<BR>
<B>Aji</B> - Jack Mackerel<BR>
I was expecting plenty of oily goodness from the trio of mackerel and the fish certainly didn't disappoint. Starting from the right was basic Mackerel, texturally the leanest of the three fish, with a touch of sliminess around the traditional dense slightly dry mouth feel. The Sawara had a smoked hammy flavor and consistency with the pliant chewy adding a contrasting textural note. The Aji was my favorite of the trio, snappy and light the Aji also evidenced the most nuanced slate of flavor.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160803_sushi_kashiba/06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Wakasagi</B> - Ocean Smelt<BR>
I actually mistook this for Sayuri when I first saw it but this was actually a form of smelt. The fish has a pleasing jellied texture and mild flavor that worked quite nicely with the spicy grated ginger.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160803_sushi_kashiba/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Nishin</B> - Herring<BR>
Having finished the basic omakase our itamae began taking requests. When we asked for Kohada he informed us the season had passed but he offered us their house marinated herring instead. The fish has the same pungent flavor of vinegar and fish oil but with a softer more succulent texture.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160803_sushi_kashiba/08.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Amaebi</B> - Sweet Shrimp<BR>
Live Amaebi prepared a la minute is almost always a standout and this certainly didn't disappoint. The shrimp exhibited a lusciously crisp creamy texture along with a sweet clean salinity, sadly the overall preparation was a bit sloppily done. Loosely packed rice had been an ongoing issue throughout the night but it was particularly bad here with half the rice falling back onto the plate as soon as I picked up the nigiri
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160803_sushi_kashiba/09.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Uni</B> - Sea Urchin<BR>
<B>Ikura</B> - Salmon Roe<BR>
Next up was a classic duet of roe. The uni hailed from Hokkaido and golden pouches of creamy sweet richness left me wanting more. The Ikura was served a bit warmer than I was used to but despite the temperature, still had a delightful pop and classic smoky flavor.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160803_sushi_kashiba/10.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Hamachi</B> - Yellowtail<BR>
<B>Kampachi</B> - Amberjack<BR>
In my sushi infancy Hamachi was my go to fish though I hardly ever order it anymore. The classic sweet oily twang reminds is still quite appealing but the soft fleshy texture feels a bit one-dimensional. The Kampachi was definitely more impressive on that score offering a slick and snappy texture accompanied by a similar but milder flavor as the Hamachi.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160803_sushi_kashiba/11.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Tokobushi</B> - Abalone<BR>
This was my first time having Tokobushi, a species of abalone that tends to be smaller than the more commonly found Awabi. The Tokobushi has a softer more pliant texture and milder flavor that lends itself well to showcasing the dashi it was cooked in.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160803_sushi_kashiba/12.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Taraba Gani</B> - King Crab<BR>
<B>Zuwai Gani</B> - Snow Crab<BR>
For our final savory we opted for nigiri Deadliest Catch style with a delectable duet of king crab (right) and snow crab (left). I tend to favor King Crab over Snow Crab and Kashiba's offerings continue that trend. The Taraba Gani has a meatier texture and its flavor tends to be a touch sweeter where the Zuwai Gani has a leaner stringer feel and earthier flavor.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160803_sushi_kashiba/13.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Tamago</B> - Egg<BR>
The meal closed out on a strong note with a dense cake-y tamago that deftly balanced the smoky-sweet eggy flavor with a slight hint of savoriness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160803_sushi_kashiba/14.jpg">
<BR><BR>
Given Kashiba-san's pedigree and reputation I was expecting a transcendent experience and came away a bit wanting. Perhaps my expectations were unrealistically high as the fish quality was consistently very good and aside from the overly loose rice there weren't any overt flaws. Ultimately, I have to say that a trip to the sushi bar at Kashiba is a no-brainer for any sushi fan visiting Seattle.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160803_sushi_kashiba/Receipt.jpg">
<BR><BR>
My girlfriend and I had planned to have back-to-back dinners at Sushi Kashiba and Shiro. Having missed the first seating at Shiro, we opted to grab a small bite at Kashiba to tide us over.<BR><BR>
<I>2016 Yamazaki Sherry Cask</I><BR>
I almost couldn't bring myself to order a shot of the Yamazaki Sherry Cask, but I figured this might be my only opportunity to try it. This extremely limited bottle became even more elusive after it was named World's Best Whisky by Jim Murray in 2015. This year a mere 26 of the 5,000 bottles released were shipped stateside and apparently Kashiba-san had the pull to score one from his distributor. The deep reddish color and slightly viscous texture are in keeping with an aged Sherried Whisky while the aroma offered notes of syrup and dried fruit the palate has a nuanced restraint that shows off the sherry without being drowned in it. What surprised me most about the drink was how much my girlfriend, who typically likens Whisky to paint thinner took to this dram. However at $2,000 a bottle, I don't feel inclined to indulge her budding interest in Whisky any further.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160803_sushi_kashiba/17.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Oyster on the Half Shell</B> - Kumamoto oysters sprinkled with shaved frozen ponzu vinegar<BR>
Being in Seattle the Kumamotos were an absolute must. Fished fresh from the local waters the sweet briny morsels are coupled with a punchy tang from the ponzu vinegar.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160803_sushi_kashiba/15.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Agedashi Tofu</B> - Lightly fried tofu served with grated white radish and grated ginger and bonito flakes in a savory dashi broth<BR>
One of the more elegant preparations of Agedashi tofu I've had in a while. The tofu was brilliantly soft while the broth had a brooding weighty savor perked up by the bitter daikon and bite of the ginger.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160803_sushi_kashiba/16.jpg">
<BR><BR>
Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-44303045948892759082016-07-27T19:29:00.003-07:002016-07-27T19:29:32.341-07:00Irenia - 07/13/2016400 N Broadway<BR>
Santa Ana, CA 92701<BR>
(657) 245-3466<BR>
<BR>
I've always wondered why there aren't more standout Filipino restaurants in Southern California. Every time I posed this question to a Filipino friend I got a variation on the same theme: nothing beats mom's home cooking. Unfortunately having never had the opportunity to taste home cooked Filipino food my understanding of the cuisine is restricted to casual restaurant fare (which I find overly heavy) or Jollybee (which is naturally delicious because its fried chicken). When I heard Irenia was offering contemporary Filipino influenced cuisine I jumped at the chance to try it.
<BR><BR>
<B>DILIS</B> - Fried anchovies, sukang sili, herbs<BR>
This reminded me of the anchovy and almond sliver snack that I used to love as a kid. The anchovies are fried to a nice crisp and deliver a fish oil laced saltiness while the spiced vinegar adds a sharp tangy bite.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160713_irenia/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>SINIGANG</B> - Tamarind dashi, braised daikon, sitaw<BR>
Sinigang refers to a variety of sour and savory soups and stews and Irenia's preparation has both of those in spades despite being a thin elegant dashi-based broth.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160713_irenia/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>MANI</B> - Peanuts roasted shell on, muscavado vinegar, Philippine sea salt, harissa<BR>
Though I enjoyed the smoky sour seasoning on the shell, the mechanics of orally breaking the shell and extracting the peanuts was a bit tedious. The actual nuts were relatively bland with a disconcerting texture reminiscent of boiling rather than roasting.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160713_irenia/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<I>THE SUPPER CLUB</I> - lambanog, jasmine, calamansi, ginger beer<BR>
<I>BAGUIO OLD FASIONED</I> - <BR>
<I>24 KARAT MULE</I> - barbados rum, lime, carrot, 5 spice bitters, ginger beer<BR>
<I>BOTTLE ROCKET</I> - mezcal, mango, ancho, tamarind, bergamot<BR>
The first round of cocktails was a pleasant surprise with each being stronger than the last. The Supper Club was a delicate effervescent libation with plenty of citrus and spice. Despite its unconventional mixture, the Baguio Old Fashioned had plenty of boozy citrus and cherry similar to the original. The 24 Karat had underlying bite of ginger and citrus of a classic Mule overlayed with an subtle hint of exotic spice. The Bottle Rocket was the most elaborate cocktail with a tropical mango attack, boozy petrol mid-palate and spicy herbaceous finish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160713_irenia/Cocktails_01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>CHARRED LITTLE GEM SALAD</B> - Charred little gem salad, milkfish tonnato, cherry tomato, anchovy crumble<BR>
This was a thoroughly enjoyable salad. The crisp greens have a touch of smoky heft augmented by the savory twang of the tonnato and anchovies while the tomatoes add a burst of contrasting sweetness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160713_irenia/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>GINATAAN CORN</B> - Roasted sweet corn, corn ginataan, Hope Ranch mussels, lime, chili oil<BR>
I thought the coconut milk was going to be overbearing when coupled with the corn but the citrus and heat were equally forceful making for a very well balanced dish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160713_irenia/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>KULIPLOR</B> - Roasted cauliflower, bagoong "moleXO", mango, toasted sunflower seeds<BR>
This was my favorite of the vegetable courses. Dense stalks of delicately roasted cauliflower were imbued with an unexpectedly bold savor thanks to the bagoong (fish sauce) while the mango added a deft sweet-sour lift to the vegetables.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160713_irenia/06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>PANCIT</B> - Santa Barbara ridegeback prawns & prawn head sauce, canton noodles, blue lake beans, heirloom carrots, dried shrimp powder<BR>
This was probably the most disappointing course of the night. The prawns were overcooked while the thick buttery noodles coupled with the sauce tasted eerily like Fritos.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160713_irenia/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<I>SAN MIGUEL SLING</I> - ginebra, pineapple, cherry heering, calamansi, angostura bitters<BR>
<I>PETITE COLADA</I> - corn whiskey, madeira, toasted cocnut, pineapple, pandan, nutmeg<BR>
<I>HURRICANE FIGHTER PLANE</I> - bourbon, jamaican rum, lime passionfruit, maraschino, charcoal 151<BR>
<I>NEGRONI TROPIKAL</I> - pineapple rum, campari, hibiscus, falernum bitters<BR>
This round of cocktails was much more challenging thanks to an array of bolder flavors that either ran too bitter or too sweet. The sling was probably the best of the bunch with vivid tropical fruit upfront and a dry citrus-y finish. The Colada was pretty classic that is to say thick sweet and full of coconut with a woody booziness on the finish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160713_irenia/Cocktails_02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>ADOBO</B> Slow roasted pork belly w/ adobo jus, ginasang mung beans, braised mustard, spring onion<BR>
No Filipino meal would be complete without a rendition of that country's unofficial national dish. Irenia's preparation comes off a little more Chinese than most preparations with a sweet chashu-like flavor overlaid with char. The mung beans were in keeping with that theme though I much preferred this savory rendition to the sweeter preparations seen in Chinese food. The braised greens and onion provide differing contrasting flavors that temper the fatty pork Adobo.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160713_irenia/08.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>CHICKEN INASAL</B> - Pan roasted Jidori chicken thighs, "Chicken Joy" gravy, gailan, summer squash<BR>
The chicken thighs were another particularly strong dish. For me the flavors of five spice, ginger, and scallion were reminiscent of my parent's barbecue marinade. The subtle vegetable accompaniments of gailan and squash were a hearty yet succulent compliment to the flavor of the chicken.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160713_irenia/09.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>INIHAW NA PALTAT</B> - Passmore Ranch catfish, roasted japanese eggplant & heirloom tomato, bokchoy, patis vinaigrette<BR>
This was the weakest of the three mains for me. The catfish had a delicate flaky texture and slight butteriness complimented by nicely crisped skin, but the vegetables were just a bit too astringent for the mild flavor of the fish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160713_irenia/10.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Ube Brown Sugar Pie</B><BR>
Traditional Ube pie is made with purple yam or sweet potato giving it an arresting violet hue. This was a much tamer looking dessert with a flavor that reminded me of moon cake. Having never eaten a traditional ube pie I don't have a frame of reference to make comparisons but I quite enjoyed this preparation.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160713_irenia/11.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>MAIZ CON HIELO</B> - Roasted corn caramel, panna cotta, sweet corn, frozen peaches, ice<BR>
I though this was going to be a no brainer and it was delicious with a heavy dose of sweetness shaded with a touch of savor from the bits of puffed corn. The fruit had an unexpectedly
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160713_irenia/12.jpg">
<BR><BR>
Given my relative inexperience with Filipino food I tried to get a couple experts to come with me but they were all turned off by the idea of upscale (read: expensive) Filipino food. I imagine they looked at Irenia with the same suspicion that I feel for "modern Chinese-inspired cooking" <i>overpriced crap to trick gweilo</i>. But if you can put aside that bias built up from a lifetime of eating inexpensive traditional cooking and approach Irenia with an open mind I think you'll be richly rewarded for the experience. For my part this was hands down the best Filipino cooking I've had and my new go to place next time the craving for Adobo hits.Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-56697872686281021592016-06-26T16:32:00.001-07:002016-06-26T16:32:42.341-07:00Shibumi - 06/02/2016815 S Hill St<br />
Los Angeles, CA 90014<br />
(213) 265-7923<br />
<br />
I'd been waiting for Shibumi to open since I first learned about the restaurant towards the end of 2015. Shibumi is the brainchild of David Schlosser who previously worked at both Urasawa and Ginza Sushi-ko as well as various kaiseki restaurants in Japan. Joining him as CdC is Jacob Kear who did a stint at Noma Japan. Originally scheduled to open in February of this year, the repeated delays only hightened my eagerness.
<br />
<br />
Shibumi's emphasis on Kappo style cooking was a welcome change of pace from the sushi, ramen, and yakitori places that typically dominate Japanese restaurant scene in Los Angeles. The restaurant had planned to offer a higher-end kaiseki option, but when I made my reservation we learned that the team was going to focus solely on the Kappo menu to start.
<br />
<br />
<b>cucumbers stuffed</b> with shiso leaf, seeds, umeboshi and bonito<br />
The pickled tang of the stuffed cucumbers was tinged with funky notes from the umeboshi and a pleasing freshness from the shiso while the seeds added a contrasting meatiness to the morsel. A couple of end pieces of the cucumber came without any stuffing and the entire table found these unpleasantly salty and rather blunt.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160602_shibumi/01.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
summer <b>vegetables, koji rice </b> dip<br />
Next up was a bed of fresh crudite (radishes, carrots, and snap peas) served over a bed of ice, the chilling effect of the ice helped highlight the crispness of the vegetables. In keeping with Shibumi's ethos, the vegetables were served with little adornment besides a creamy rice dip that tasted reminiscent of a mild sweet miso. The dip helped to temper the aggressive bitterness of the radishes but the overall dish was underwhelming. I can understand the desire to show off the natural flavor of the ingredients but $11 seems a bit much for a small platter of unseasoned raw vegetables that I could buy at my local farmer's market.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160602_shibumi/02.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>japanese sea-bream,</b> ginger bud, pickled plum-irizake (edo style sauce)<br />
Next up was Tai served Edo-style. The fish had a dense texture and plenty of saline heft that was deftly balanced by the tanginess of the plum sauce. Meanwhile the slivers of fresh myoga added a peppery spice and much-needed succulence.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160602_shibumi/03.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>avocado, wakame,</b> greens & hemp<br />
This was the most impressive of the three vegetable courses with the lusciously creamy avocado forming a base for the licorice-tinged fennel and the sharply bitter greens
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160602_shibumi/04.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>cuttlefish</b><br />
The cuttlefish was easily the most intimidating course of the night with its glossy oil black coating of ink to the pungent flavor of raw fishy saline. The grilled tentacles were much more approachable, still giving off intrinsic saline notes but with pleasing notes of char and smoke.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160602_shibumi/05.jpg" />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160602_shibumi/06.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>golden beets</b> broiled with barley miso<br />
I wasn't expecting much from this course but the mild sweetness of the beets was quite enjoyable especially when tempered with the light bitterness of the greens and the warm soothing maltiness of the barley.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160602_shibumi/07.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
crispy <b>monkfish</b> "kar-age" sudachi citrus, kelp salt<br />
This was probably the table favorite and with good reason. Beneath the layer of crispy batter the fish still displayed a wonderfully moist flakiness. The generous dusting of kelp salt drew out the fish's natural flavor but was kept in check by a quick squeeze of sudachi.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160602_shibumi/08.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>salmon trout</b> - smoked with cherry bark<br />
Despite being called smoked the fish had a well cooked exterior wrapped around a core of supple pink flesh. The soft whiff of wood smoke emanating from the fish worked nicely with the shredded daikon which was quite reminiscent of a sauerkraut while the fragment of crispy skin provided an unabashedly salty accent.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160602_shibumi/09.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
california<b> holstein beef</b> strip, grilled, fresh wasabi, nara-zuke pickle<br />
The strip steak was served in two markedly different styles. First up was a slightly overdone steak topped with wasabi, while the combination was enjoyable I thought the short lived bite of the wasabi didn't match up with the rich beefy flavor. The pickle, marinated for 2-years, proved to be a more effective counterpoint thanks to its lingering sweet and sour pungency.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160602_shibumi/10.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
grilled <b>heritage pork,</b> koji rice, pickled daikon, leek<br />
The pork was served unusually rare and proved to be all the better for it. The meat's rich fat, coupled with the light sweetness of the koji rice sauce was sublime with the scallion-like character of the leeks. A slice or two of thick succulent daikon washed down the fat with a crisp and tart efficiency.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160602_shibumi/11.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>rice</b> omusubi<br />
Our final course was simpled grilled onigiri that exuded a weighty character of earthy umami. The accompanying daikon punctuated the dish with a light pickled tang
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160602_shibumi/12.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
chilled <b>apricot seed tofu</b>, apricots <br />
I don't think I've ever had tofu made from apricot seed and after this experience I'm not keen to have it again. The tofu is dry to the point of being tannic and the fresh fruit does little to alleviate the sensation.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160602_shibumi/13.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>koji (r)ice cream,</b> strawberry & elderflower<br />
This was a nice riff on a classic flavor combination pairing sweet cream with strawberry and a flourish of citrus zest.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160602_shibumi/14.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
Shibumi was without a doubt my most anticipated opening for the year. My enthusiasm was tempered a bit when I learned that the Kaiseki menu wasn't going to be available immediately, but not enough to stop me from booking a table for opening night.
The meal got off to a rocky start when our server spilled a cocktail down my back. I suppose some service gaffes are to be expected and he did comp all of our drinks for the night which seemed more than fair. Schlosser's philosophy of celebrating the natural flavors of the ingredients made some of the courses more cerebral and less enjoyable at a visceral level. Overall the restaurant shows a fair amount of promise and I'd be happy to return once the Kaiseki menu gets rolled out.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160602_shibumi/Receipt.jpg" />
<br />
<br />Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-55925926857606172352016-06-05T14:00:00.001-07:002016-06-05T14:00:49.511-07:00Yazawa - 05/24/20169669 S Santa Monica Blvd<br />
Beverly Hills, CA 90210<br />
(310) 275-2914<br />
<br />
I've long considered Totoraku the pinnacle of yakiniku, but the secrecy and artificial exclusivity has always been somewhat off-putting. When I heard that Yazawa, a famous Japanese purveyor of Wagyu beef had opened up shop in Beverly Hills I had high hopes they would give Totoraku a run for its money.
<br />
<br />
Unlike Totoraku, Yazawa serves beef from a variety of sources including Snake River Farms for its domestic cuts and Wagyu from all over Japan's beef producing regions. Also the restaurant maintains an air of rustic elegance with weathered dark wood paneling and dark leather booths to match.
<br />
<br />
<b>Uni Wagyu Tartare</b> - Truffle Oil<br />
It goes without saying this dish was absolutely delicious but it almost doesn't seem fair, pairing uni, Wagyu and truffle. In terms of flavor the uni and truffle definitely dominate, but the meat adds a complex textural element that is at once slick but with a fine grain that doesn't show up in the cooked meat.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/01.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>Assorted Kimchi</b> - Radish, Chinese Cabbage, Mountain Potato<br />
Next up was a pretty traditional plate of kim chi though the seasoning used to ferment the vegetables had a bit more bite than I was expecting. The radish and cabbage were pretty traditional but the mountain potato was a nice change of pace, almost like a savory Asian pear.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/02.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>Toro Sashimi</b><br />
I never thought I'd say this but I guess meat can be too rare but I guess it is possible. The meat certainly looked beautiful, but it was dense and utterly flavorless like chewing on oily clay. The soy and wasabi help superficially but don't really remedy the issue.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/03.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>Wagyu Terrine</b><br />
I was a bit skeptical about the idea of a Wagyu terrine thinking that the cooking would render out the best parts of the delicately marbled beef, but the result was effective if a bit non-traditional. The meat had a tender corned beef-like consistency with a rich buttery flavor and lingering essence of stewed meat.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/04.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>Shishito</b><br />
This was a textbook Shishito appetizer; the pepper's verdant smoke wsa augmented by bonito shaving and savory garlic chips.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/05.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>Braised Beef Tongue</b> - with Traditional Japanese Marinade<br />
I've typically seen beef tongue in lengua and yakiniku with little variation in between. This was an intriguing compromise. The tongue had a tenderness thanks to the braising but with a pleasing snap at its pinkish core.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/06.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>Wagyu Roast</b> - with crispy onion and Japanese Balsamic<br />
Yet another wonderful cooked Wagyu preparation. The moist Wagyu had the hearty flavor of a traditional roast beef with a heady savor from the onion and a touch of countervailing tang from the balsamic.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/07.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>Wagyu Bresaola</b> - dry aged and salted<br />
The Bresaola proved to be the table favorite among a slate of very strong beef appetizers. The curing gives the beef a deep burgundy color and beautifully dense tenderness. The higher fat content and brine makes the flavor aggressively salty and rich making the tomatoes and arugula the ideal compliment to the meat.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/08.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>YAZAWA Cut Tongue</b> - Sliced Beef Tongue (US Beef)<br />
Yazawa serves their tongue noticeably thicker than most other yakiniku restaurants. Consequently, the meat can stand more time on the grill resulting is a more multifaceted texture with some nice crispness and char on the edges yet still snappy at the core.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/09.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>"YAZAWA-YAKI"</b> - Sirloin (Japanese Wagyu)<br />
This is the restaurant's signature cut and at $28 per slice the only one where the staff makes a point to cook the meat for their guests. The result is sublime, a silky lissome sheet of perfectly marbled beef that balanced the rich oily fat with plenty of beefy heft. The meat comes in a sweet marinade and egg dipping sauce but can be enjoyed on its own.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/10.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>YAZAWA Cut Harami</b> - sliced outside skirt (US Beef)<br />
Our second round of beef started with the outside skirt steak from Snake River Farms. The meat has an appreciable heft and much firmer grain than its Japanese counterpart though the marbling isn't quite as well integrated.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/11.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>Misuji</b> - Brisket (Japanese Wagyu)<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/12.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>Yazawa Cut Kalbi</b> - sliced short rib (US Beef)<br />
Naturally we couldn't leave without trying the classic Kalbi. The meat is buttery rich and generally tender though a bit more sinewy than the rest of the courses.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/13.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>Rib-Shin</b> - Rib-eye (Japanese Wagyu)<br />
We were advised to cook the rib-eye three seconds per side. Personally I found this a bit short as the fat hadn't quite rendered and the exterior hadn't picked up any caramelization. At 5 seconds per side, the meat picked up much more depth, smoke, and tenderness.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/14.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>Pork</b> - sliced kurobuta pork<br />
While Yazawa's focus clearly is on high quality beef the restaurant does offer a couple other proteins. The pork was far denser than any of the cuts of beef but remained fairly tender and picked up a nice bacon-y char as the fat rendered.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/15.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>Ramboso</b> - Round (Japanese Wagyu)<br />
Working our way down the marbling scale we decided to end our night with the Round steak. Markedly leaner than its the texture is still supple and tender though a bit less overtly rich than the Japanese cuts we had earlier.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/16.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>Uni Gyu Toro Don Bowl</b> - uni and minced raw japanese wagyu on rice<br />
This was basically a rehash of the tartare we had earlier but served on a bed of warm rice. As with the tartare, the beef plays a supporting role to the aromatic decadence of the urchin and truffle. The addition of pickled radish was a nice touch, crunchy and tart, they kept the dish from feeling overly heavy.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/17.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>Japanese Wagyu Curry Rice</b> - minced japanese wagyu curry rice with an egg<br />
Classic Japanese curry, which would be great but I've never cared much for curry rice. The meat has a hearty stew like flavor and it was hard to really notice what if anything using Wagyu beef did to help the dish.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/18.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>Oxtail Soup</b><br />
I loved everything about this dish, from its alabaster color to its slightly creamy consistency and rich meaty savor. The sprigs of fresh parsley provided a verdant countervailing bitterness while the inclusion of rice lent the dish a nice solidity.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/19.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>Garlic Japanese Wagyu Rice</b> - served in a clay pot<br />
Our server recommended this dish and I'm thankful we took him up on his advice. The rice and beef are served in a sizzling pot a la bibimbap that really brought out the flavor of the fried garlic while softening the meat and lightly toasting the rice, easily the best of the rice dishes and probably the best clay pot rice I've ever had.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/20.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
<b>Cold Tan Tan Noodle</b> - sesame and chili ramen<br />
I'm not typically a fan of Dan Dan noodles, but this version wasn't bad. The noodles themselves were cold and dense while the characteristic peanut flavor is replaced with sesame and tempered by a surprisingly healthy dose of chili.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/21.jpg" />
<br />
<br />
My only real complaint was the $36 we were charged for tea. At $4 a cup, please inform guests that refills aren't free and don't replace half-finished cups without asking first. Our meal came to north of $125 per person so the additional $24 for refills just feels excessive.
<br />
<br />
In terms of food, Yazawa met my expectations and then some. The beef was stellar from start to finish; with each cut having its own distinctive character and the appetizers and rice dishes were equally, and in some cases arguably even more impressive. In terms of service the restaurant is clearly a step above most other yakiniku or Korean BBQ places, with the staff changing the cooking surface in between each cut of beef to keep one cut from contaminating the next. The wine list was a bit sparse but as corkage is an option, I highly recommend diners skip the wine list (and the tea) and bring their own wines to pair with the heavenly meat.
<br />
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/160524_yazawa/Receipt.jpg" />
<br />
<br />Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-69783204383007751702016-04-05T23:43:00.004-07:002016-04-05T23:43:54.336-07:00Espai Kru - 05/15/2015Carrer de Lleida, 7<BR>
08004 Barcelona, Spain<BR>
+34 934 23 45 70<BR>
<BR>
After trying and failing yet again to get last minute reservations to Tickets, my girlfriend and I decided to visit Espai Kru. The contemporary seafood restaurant is run by the Iglesias brothers and partners to the Adrias at Tickets and 41°. The Iglesias brothers are second generation restaurateurs and still run Rias de Galicia a classic seafood restaurant started by their parents in 1986.
<BR><BR>
Unlike its more classical sibling, Espai Kru shows the modernist influences of the Adrias. The menu emphasizes raw meats and vegetables; celebrating food as our ancestors ate it prior to the discovery of fire. The decor further emphasizes the cosmopolitan feel with sleek minimalist furniture and a slate grey bar/open kitchen.
<BR><BR>
<B>Homemade Smoked Fish</B> - Anchovies in salt with roast pepper and manchego cheese<BR>
The meal kicked off with a punchy smoked anchovy. The whispery sliver of fish is saturated with oil and wood smoke coupled with a cheesy twang from the manchego cream. The fleshy red pepper provides a cool vegetal counterpoint to the aggressive smoked fish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150527_espai_kru/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>French Oysters</B> - N°2 with ponzu sauce and salmon roe<BR>
<B>French Oysters</B> - N°2 with tiger milk yellow chili<BR>
The next dish had a cosmopolitan flair, pairing sweet meaty oysters with Japanese and Peruvian flavors. The ponzu and salmon roe were a natural pairing moderating the oyster's intrinsic salinity. I was a bit concerned that the leche de tigre would be too harsh for the oyster and while there was a serious acidic heat, there was also a touch of citrus and freshness that worked nicely with the bivalve.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150527_espai_kru/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Cíes Island Razor Clams</B> - with mustard and ginger vinaigrette<BR>
The razor clams were fresh and snappy, but their subtle saline was overpowered by the earthy twang of the mustard.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150527_espai_kru/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Palamós Prawns</B> - in Mexican aguachile<BR>
I loved the presentation of this course. Tossing back the cup in one quick gulp, the dish opened with the intensity of the aguachile up front but finished with a cool creamy salinity from the prawn with a touch of toasty almond thrown in for good measure.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150527_espai_kru/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Kru Squid</B><BR>
<B>Salmon</B><BR>
<B>Mackrel</B><BR>
<B>Toro</B><BR>
Moving onto the sashimi course we were presented with a quartet of beautiful seafood. First up was a pristine slab of tender squid served topped with a bit of salt and a side of biting lime juice. The mackerel had a nice aromatic sear and a savory topping of fried garlic and spicy ginger to contrast the weighty fish oil. The salmon was the least interesting of the quartet, fresh fish and salty-sweet roe were enjoyable but forgettable. The last fish was a local toro the pink-white flesh was a tender morsel of oleaginous joy.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150527_espai_kru/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Whitefish</B> - According to season<BR>
The seasonal whitefish was a snapper ceviche. The fish exhibited a complex multifaceted texture that was snappy on the edges and fleshy towards the center. The sauce had a classic acidity complimented by bright sweet berry fruit.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150527_espai_kru/06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Tomato tartare</B><BR>
<B>Galician beef tartare</B><BR>
Next up we were served a duet of tartare served in antique ornate caviar dishes. first up was a classic beef tartar fine cubes of tender raw meat seasoned with creamy tangy mustard. When presenting the course, our server declined to describe the second tartare and seemed surprised when we correctly identified it as tomato. According to our waiter, most people identify the mystery tartare as fish which seems hard to believe as it tastes like a sweet pico de gallo.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150527_espai_kru/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Fried wild turbot</B><BR>
The final savory of the evening was a whole fried turbot served with ras al hanout and miso mayo. After a chorus of raw dishes the fried fish was a heavy contrast. Flaky and tender the fish was enjoyable but the basketful of fish grew rather monotonous after awhile. I found this dish a bit out of place given the emphasis on raw food. To be fair the final page of the menu focuses on dishes after the discovery of fire, but I think more straightforward grilled fare would have fit better.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150527_espai_kru/08.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Mojito cake</B> - with sake<BR>
The only real miss of the night, the first dessert was a double whammy of booze. The cake is little more than a sponge soaked with alcohol and astringency and finished with a twinge of mint.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150527_espai_kru/09.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Pain perdu</B> - with nougat ice cream<BR>
The second dessert was one of the best preparations of French toast that I've ever had. The fluffy egg infused toast comes topped with a bruleed crust and the nougat ice cram provided a cool creamy contrast to the sugary treat.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150527_espai_kru/10.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Mignardises</B><BR>
Our final sweet of the night was a classic pairing of mint and chocolate served as an airy spun sugar confection laced with pop rocks.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150527_espai_kru/11.jpg">
<BR><BR>
Though our dinner at Espai Kru was nowhere near as extravagant as our 30 course extravaganza from the previous evening, we still left comfortably satiated. Given the elegance and sophistication of most of the dishes I'm not sure that Espai Kru's menu really captures how our ancestors ate, but the pristine seafood made it a wonderful experience nonetheless
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150527_espai_kru/Receipt.jpg">
<BR><BR>Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-63436558938630807782015-08-16T10:52:00.001-07:002015-08-27T21:20:05.134-07:00Bodega 1900 - 05/26/2015Carrer de Tamarit, 91<BR>
08015 Barcelona, Spain<BR>
+34 933 25 26 59<BR>
<BR>
In its day, El Bulli was arguably the world's most sought after reservation and there was much lamentation and gnashing of teeth when Ferran Adrià its closure. Then in 2011 Ferran and his brother Albert opened the modern tapas restaurant Tickets which instantly became one of the world's hardest reservations to secure. For those who aren't lucky enough to secure a seat, the Adrià brothers have a consolation prize named Bodega 1900 across the street. Bodega 1900 takes its lead from the vermouth bars popular at the start of the 20th century and while the restaurant's menu is more traditional than its popular neighbor, it does feature flashes of culinary modernism the Adriàs are known for. Like most tapas restaurants, Bodega 1900 offers an a la carte menu but the staff is happy to prepare a custom menu for its more adventurous diners.
<BR><BR>
<I>Para inciar el vermuteo</I> - Vermouth to start<BR>
We started the meal with a cup of the house vermouth. The cocktail is primarily made of the ubiquitous Martini Rosso cut with a bit of their limited Gran Lusso. The cocktail has a hint of sweetness coupled with bitter herbs and citrus clean that was akin to a lighter more fruit forward Negroni.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Patatas chips caseras con salsa de vermut</B> - Homemade Potato Chips with vermouth<BR>
The tasting started off with a few snacks to accompany the aperitivo The chips were thin, crispy and equally delicious with the subtle vinegar-y bite of the house made hot sauce or alone.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Algas crujientes</B> - Crispy seaweed<BR>
The potato chips while enjoyable, lacked the panache befitting an restaurant. The second snack was a bowl of deep fried seaweed, equally airy and crisp but with a more nuanced umami flavor and a tinge of sesame to boot.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Coctel de gambas</B> - Shrimp cocktail<BR>
I've never been a fan of shrimp cocktail. The dense overcooked shrimp and blunt cocktail sauce feel more suited to a mediocre buffet rather than a fine dining establishment. Happily, this far exceeded my expectations with a snappy rare texture and fresh sweetness. The sauce was similarly elevated, with a tangy zing that deftly complimented the flavor of the shrimp.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>La acetuna-S con piparra</B> - Gordal and Piparra olive<BR>
These were a nice change of pace from the ubiquitous olives served at every other tapas joint. The creamy spheres popped releasing a pure olive note tinged with a touch of anchovy-like salinity and smoke.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Pulga de cangrejo</B> - Crab on toast<BR>
Next up was delightful crab salad. The strings of tender snow crab are smothered in a mixture of creamy avocado and pungent romesco. The salad would be a bit lopsided texturally were it not for the crusty toast point the dish was served on.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/05_01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Pulga de salmón ahumado</B> - Smoked salmon on toast<BR>
For this course, took a page out of classic Jewish deli fare. The sliver of smoky salmon was governed in a glistening sheen of truffle honey. The interplay between the sharp smoke and sweet honey was further elevated by the touch of lactic tang and the accent of the dill sprigs.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/05_02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Esparragos naturales</B> - Fresh white asparagus<BR>
White asparagus is something of a rare treat at home so I quite enjoyed these sweet fresh stalks. The asparagus was boiled then seasoned with salt, pepper, and a mustard glaze, simple yet effective with the succulent vegetal sweetness of the vegetable.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Berenjenas con salmorejo</B> - Eggplant fries with tomato purée<BR>
This was a rather whimsical preparation of eggplant, cut into thick sticks then deep-fried akin to French fries. Beneath the thin fried shell, the eggplants had a rather creamy consistency. The piping hot filling contrasted wonderfully with the chill of the salmorejo which also conveyed a lovely springtime levity.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Ostras Gillardeau n3</B> - Gillardeau oysters<BR>
I didn't know there could be name brand oysters but yet here we are. The Gillardeau family has been raising oysters since the turn of the century and by that I mean the twentieth century. The self-proclaimed "Rolls Royce of oysters" were on the meaty side but with a fresh mild salinity and a supple creamy body.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/08.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Navajas en escabeche blanco</B> - Razor clams in white escabeche<BR>
The lightly blanched razor clams were a big change from the previous course. The deep saline flavor and dense supple snap offered by the clams were heftier than I was expecting as was the astringent tang of the Escabeche sauce.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/09.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Surtido de ahumados</B> - Assortment of Smoked Meat<BR>
Given Spain's penchant for pork, I was surprised to see the charcuterie was all fish but from start to finish the selections were excellent. First up was a simple mackerel, the smoke a natural compliment to the fish's inherent oiliness. The most elaborate of the quartet was an eel with saffron, the smoking gave the eel a denser feel while the saffron added a touch of the exotic. Following the eel, the tuna was rendered surprisingly mute; still it was easy to appreciate the fish's even tender texture and the contrasting toastiness of the hazelnut accent. last but not least was the sliver of sardine, which packed an immense amount of flavor into a very tiny package.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/10.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Rubia Gallega</B> - Dry Aged Beef Carpaccio<BR>
Rubia Gallega or Galician Red, refers to a specific breed of cattle that comes from the Galicia region of Northern Spain. The beef has been cured for three weeks in salt then sliced paper thin, the result is an airy sliver of meat that exhibits a harmonious blend of beefy power, butter, salty smoke, and meaty umami funk, the absolute favorite of the evening for both me and my girlfriend.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/11.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Jamón Ibérico 5 años</B> - 5-year old Iberian ham<BR>
No tapas meal would be complete without a serving of prized Iberico ham. The brothers source theirs from Joselito, a family run business that has been in business for over a century. Aged for a minimum of five years, the meat has the fine creamy consistency and rich depth of porcine flavor but truth be told it was hard to see a significant difference between this and other top Iberian ham.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/12.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Ensalada de tomate natural</B> - Fresh Tomato Salad<BR>
The tomato was the perfect remedy after all the cured meats. Glistening ruby hemispheres of fresh tomato came drizzled with olive oil and coarse salt adding a fruity salty savor to compliment the sweet succulent fruit.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/13.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Croqueta de jamón Ibérico Joselito</B> - Joselito Iberian ham croquette<BR>
Moving onto the heavier cooked tapas, we started with a classic croquette filled with rich bechamel imbued with the profound porcine profile of Iberico pork.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/14.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Mollete de Papada</B> - Pork Cheek Sandwich<BR>
Mollete refers to a type of soft white Andalusian bread that is usually served lightly toasted and drizzled with olive oil or lard. At Bodega 1900 the bread was filled with a mix of melted gruyere and tender pork cheek. The simple sandwich celebrated the effective combination of the two ingredients highlighted with a slight mustard kick.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/15.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Mollete de calamares picantes</B> - Spicy squid "Hot Dog"<BR>
The Adriàs decided to channel some Korean influences for this dish, seasoning the mild calamari with a mix of kimchi chipotle and aioli. Much blunter than the previous offering, the dense bun and clumsy mix of sauces overwhelmed the delicate flavor of the squid.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/16.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Pluma Ibérica Joselito</B> - "Iberian Pluma" Pork<BR>
At this point my girlfriend and I were getting pretty damn full but when we were presented with a skewer of grilled Iberico we found just a bit more space. Literally translated as the Feather Loin, the Pluma is cut from a fattier section the shoulder giving it the textural nuance of lean pork with the full throated flavor of fattier cuts. The meat was reminiscent of a yakitori style preparation, grilled and simply seasoned allowing the smoky char and richness of the meat to shine.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/17.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Pincho de cordero</B> - Lamb skewer<BR>
We were also presented with a skewer of lamb contrasted with sweet onion. A less elegant meat than the Pluma, the lamb benefited greatly from the fresh springtime contrast of the onion.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/18.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Albondeigas con sepia</B> - Meatballs with cuttlefish<BR>
I expected a bit more from this course. The meatballs were pretty classic but rather one dimensional despite the inclusion of the cuttlefish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/19.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>El melón con vermut blanco</B> - Melon with white vermouth<BR>
Coaxed by our server, we opted to start dessert with a light fruit chaser. The melon takes on a Jello-like consistency and a surprisingly boozy heft to compliment the fruit's inherent sweet succulence.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/20.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Milhojas de cremo con su sorbete</B> - Millefeuille with strawberry sorbet<BR>
Our final dessert was a take on the classic Millefeuille. The puff pastry was caramelized giving it a more pronounced butteriness and denser crunch making it a fitting foil for the exuberant strawberry sweetness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/21.jpg">
<BR><BR>
The food strikes the right balance; exemplifying the best of traditional tapas style cooking while celebrating the of creativity and dynamism of the brothers Adrià. Our dinner at Bodega 1900 was everything I could have hoped for and the double-take that our server gave when he saw the bill provided a humorous exclamation to a wonderful meal.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150526_bodega_1900/Receipt.jpg">
<BR><BR>Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-11482132752549304912015-06-23T01:27:00.002-07:002015-06-23T01:27:54.917-07:00StreetXO - 05/23/2015Calle Serrano, 52 <BR>
28001 Madrid Spain<BR>
+34 915 31 98 84<BR>
<BR>
In the States, the term Asian Fusion is something of a dirty word in most culinary circles, conjuring images of the bad old days in the '80s and '90s. But in Spain, wunderkind Chef David Muñoz has raised fusion to an art form. His fine dining restaurant DiverXO recently got its third Michelin Star and to my surprise, is the only 3-star restaurant in Madrid. Unable to score a seat to the temple of Latin-Asian fusion, we contented ourselves with a visit to StreetXO his more casual joint situated at the top floor of El Corte Inglés, high-end department store.
<BR><BR>
<I>Raquelita</I> - Vodka, Crema de Coco, Maracuyá, Limoncillo<BR>
StreetXO offers a very impressive array of contemporary cocktails to accompany their food. Unable to pick from the many tantalizing choices, we finally asked our server to surprise us. The Raquelita turned out to be an Asian riff on a White Russian with lemongrass, coconut cream, and passion fruit in place of coffee. The creamy sweet cocktail even came with a chaser of tangy passion fruit meringue.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150523_streetxo/Cocktail.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Laksa Singapore con Carabineros a la Llama de Robata</B> - Crema de Coco, Shitake y Pasta de Huevo<BR>
My girlfriend developed quite a fondness for Laksa from her ex-pat days so this was definitely a must order. We were presented with two prawns that were quickly bathed in a golden bisque-esque that oozed char, acidity and spice. The prawns were equally impressive, prized deep sea Carabineros, their flesh was translucent and silky while the head was filled with decadent offal-tinged saline.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150523_streetxo/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Codorniz Royal "Kentucky Style" y Frita en Tempura</B> - Condimento de Sésamo y Pimienta Szechuan, Ponzu Cítrica<BR>
Next up was a deep-fried quail served with a ponzu spiked with Szechuan peppercorns. On its own the bird is quite the treat, firm and moist quail covered in a thin crispy shell. The sauce adds a piquant numbness and slight pungency that I enjoyed though only in small doses.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150523_streetxo/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Pulpo Charsiu (Barbacoa China) con Pasta de Gamba Fermentada y Chiles Dulces</B> - Padthai Cremoso de Tintas, Ginger y Polvo de Gamba Seca<BR>
Octopus char siu? Yes, please! The pulpo was paired with a touch of hoisin and sweet chili. The combination had familiar char siu elements that played very well with the inherent smokiness of the octopus. The accompanying squid ink noodles were appropriately dense and seasoned with shrimp paste. The funky umami heft of the noodles was deftly balanced by the sprigs of fresh dill.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150523_streetxo/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>"Chili Crab"</B> - Pimentón, Chipotles, Palo Cortado, Mantou<BR>
Next up was a pretty faithful rendition of the popular Singaporean Chili Crab. The crab itself plays second fiddle to the thick chili sauce. This version paired cayenne and chipotle for a smokier heat with a touch of palo cortado sherry. As enjoyable as the crab was, the best part of the dish was the mantou beautifully golden on the outside with an light airy center this was undoubtedly the best mantou I've ever eaten far outstripping the traditional bland steamed buns.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150523_streetxo/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Navajas al Humo de Aceite de Oliva y Carbón</B> - Ponzu de Shiso y Crema de Coco<BR>
Razor clams are a relatively rare treat back home but surprisingly plentiful in Spain. Sadly this smoked preparation a bit lacking in both snap and flavor; errors that were further compounded by the coconut cream which was heavy handed both in sweetness and the thick creamy texture.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150523_streetxo/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Sepitas el Miso-Carbón</B> - Jugo de Kimchi Coreano y Huevo Frito, Mini Sardinas Japonesas Extracruijentes<BR>
The cuttlefish itself is perfectly cooked but serves as little more than a textural element. The flavor came from the fried egg and the even more deep-fried sardines, with a kimchi sauce the whole affair in a pungently spicy bow.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150523_streetxo/06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Costilla de Raya y Hojas de Banana + Sambal Indonesio de Pasta de Crustaceos</B> - Spicy-Salmorejo-Cremoso-Picante, Pan de Gambas<BR>
At this point we were bursting full, but seeing the table next to us tuck into the skate we couldn't help ourselves. Despite the gluttonous excess, this proved to be a great choice. The skate displayed a multifaceted texture flaky meaty strands wrapped in a glutinous succulence. The banana leaf imparted a heady savory char to the meat while the sauce added a healthy kick to the mix.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150523_streetxo/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
I have to say, I had my doubts about StreetXO. The "fusion" stigma, the urban-hipster vibe, and its location in a mall had me worried, but the bold, lusty flavors effectively married the best from Asian and Latin cuisine with a healthy dose of funky iconoclasm thrown in. Add to that the impeccable cooking techniques and I found myself agonizing over just how good the three-star version must be. After gorging ourselves at StreetXO, a visit to DiverXO is an absolute must for me and my girlfriend next time we are in the neighborhood.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/150523_streetxo/Receipt.jpg">
<BR><BR>Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-77957431931216377052014-12-11T23:57:00.001-08:002014-12-11T23:59:16.366-08:00n/naka - 10/11/20143455 S Overland Ave<BR>
Los Angeles, CA 90034<BR>
(310) 836-6252<BR>
<BR>
I've had Niki Nakayama's food five times now and she's never failed to impress. With my last visit being over a year ago it was well past time for another trip to n/naka.
<BR><BR>
<B>Saki Zuke</B> - Lobster Potato with Cold Corn Soup, Cream Fraiche, Ikura<BR>
<I>Cuvee Jean Phillipe, Limoux, France, '12</I><BR>
The first course was designed to pair something common with something unique and the delectable sphere of lobster and potato is just that. The creamy potato is flecked with bits of lobster sort of like a gentrified seafood croquette. The warm savory mixture is further highlighted by the sweet cold cream soup and a delicate citrus perfume.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Zensai</B> - Lobster Shumai, Grilled Duck, Calamari with Blue Crab, Maguro Poke<BR>
<I>Verdejo "Martinsancho", Rueda, Spain '12</I><BR>
Niki took a more traditional approach with the second course, a mix of appetizers emphasizing seasonal fare. First up was more lobster this time in shumai form with a filling that emphasized the snappy texture of the lobster and a numbing spicy dipping sauce. Next up were two slivers of duck that offered the perfect ratio of tender breast and oily fat topped with succulent fragrant onions. Third was a multifaceted blend of snappy calamari stuffed with creamy blue crab. The morsel came with a streak of squid ink that imparted an earthy relish to the dish. After all that the final course of Poké felt almost passe though it was still some of the highest quality Poké that I've ever had.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/02.jpg">
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/02_01.jpg">
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/02_02.jpg">
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/02_03.jpg">
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/02_04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Modern Zukuri</B> - Japanese Scallop with Bell Pepper Gelee, Golden Kiwi, Dill<BR>
<I>Pinot Gris, Domaine Schlumberger, Alsace, France, '12</I><BR>
Jumping back to the contemporary side of things we were presented with four slices of alabaster perfection. The creamy mild mollusk reverberates with the flavors of herbaceous bell pepper, sweet kiwi and tart citrus. Despite all that was going on, I would have liked a bit more savory emphasis on the dish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Owan "Still Water"</B> - Seabass with Matsutake Mushroom, Dashi Broth<BR>
<I>Born Gold, Junmai Daiginjo, Fukui, Japan</I><BR>
One of the joys of late fall and winter is Matsutake season. The mushrooms have a distinctly sharp woody aroma that lends itself well to soup. The dashi broth is on the lighter side, still savory but leaving plenty of room for the twisting sour twang of the citrus as well as the flavor of the mushroom. The accompanying sake is equally as focus, bursting with floral grace but finishing sweet and clean.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Otsukuri</B> - Bluefin Tuna O-Toro, Tai, Shima Aji, Nama Tako, Kumamoto Oyster, Uni<BR>
<I>Miyasaka, Yawaraka Junmai, Nagano Japan</I><BR>
Our fifth course consisted of little treasure boxes filled with a variety of immaculate sashimi. The O-toro was an obvious standout, as was the uni, but the nama tako was probably the most unexpected surprise the fresh octopus has a supple slickness that I find enchanting though I recognize it might be off-putting to some.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Yakimono</B> - Pompano with Sweet Baby Bell Pepper, Green Onion<BR>
<I>Viognier, Ampelos, Santa Ynez, CA, '11</I><BR>
This was probably the weakest course of the night for me. The grilled fish has a distinctly firmer texture than most of the other courses and the vinegar-ed sauce was a touch too astringent for my liking.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Mushimono/Agemono</B> - Chawanmushi, Uni, Snow Crab, White Truffle<BR>
<I>Muller Thurgau, Alto Adige, Italy, '12</I><BR>
Things got right back on course with the steamed dish, a little bowl of silken egg custard filled with treasures like uni and snow crab. If that wasn't enough the course is finished with a generous topping of white truffle imparting an elegant fragrance to the bounty of hearty egg and heady shellfish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Shiizakana</B> - Spaghettini with Abalone, Pickled Cod Roe, Burgundy Truffles<BR>
<I>Sancere, Pascal Jolivet, Loire Valley, France, '12</I><BR>
I'm not sure if this is Niki's signature dish, but I've had the good fortune to try it on each of my last two visits. The pasta is cooked very al dente and dredged with pungent cod roe. Slices of abalone and Burgundy truffle add depth and texture to the dish while the sprouts bring the the slightest touch of cool verdant relief.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/08.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Niku</B> - Japan Matsuzaka Wagyu Beef A5<BR>
<I>Bordeaux, Chateau Haut Beajesour, Saint Estephe, France, '10</I><BR>
It goes without saying the beef was cooked perfectly, tender and threaded with abundant marbling it was like biting into a pillowy cloud of beefy decadence. The accompanying vegetables are cooked perfectly keeping their inherent flavors and crispness while picking up a hint of char and nuance. The wine was a prototypical Bordeaux but the structure and more austere notes of tar, cocoa, and deep red fruit do well to wash down the weightiness of the meat.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/09.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Sunomono</B> - Black Tiger Shrimp with Avocado, Caviar<BR>
<I>Yuzu Omoi, Kyoto, Japan</I><BR>
Our final plated course before the nigiri was the evening's "salad" The still-rare prawn is immaculately dressed with avocado, edible flowers and a touch of caviar. The accompanying white miso adds a slightly funky sweetness while the cool chaser of sweet Yuzu Omoi provided a pleasant punctuation to close the Kaiseki.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/10.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Shokuji</B> - Suzuki<BR>
<I>Dewazakura Izumi Judan, Junmai Ginjo, Yamagata, Japan</I><BR>
Nigiri time! First up was a thick cut of sea bass the warm pink flesh has a jellied consistency and the coolness of the fish works beautifully against the slightly warm rice.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/11.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Shokuji</B> - O-Toro<BR>
<I>Dewazakura Izumi Judan, Junmai Ginjo, Yamagata, Japan</I><BR>
Next up was more of the fabulous toro this time in nigiri form. The fish doesn't have much apparent marbling but despite the understated appearance the fish still gives off a decadent oily relish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/12.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Shokuji</B> - Amaebi<BR>
<I>Dewazakura Izumi Judan, Junmai Ginjo, Yamagata, Japan</I><BR>
The second plate of sushi began with a lovely amaebi the supple white flesh comes coated in a fine layer of shoyu giving some much needed savor to balance the prawn's inherent sweetness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/13.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Shokuji</B> - Aji Mackerel<BR>
<I>Dewazakura Izumi Judan, Junmai Ginjo, Yamagata, Japan</I><BR>
The aji had a deep lovely redness shaded with bright silver skin. The bite of the grated ginger tempers the Mackerel's fishy heft.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/14.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Shokuji</B> - Mirugai<BR>
<I>Dewazakura Izumi Judan, Junmai Ginjo, Yamagata, Japan</I><BR>
This was the evening's most elaborate sushi presentation, the thin sliver of mirugai comes sandwiched between a dab of yuzu kocho and a sliver of shiso. The combination gives the geoduck a mix of brash tangy spice and floral elegance.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/15.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Shokuji</B> - Uni<BR>
<I>Dewazakura Izumi Judan, Junmai Ginjo, Yamagata, Japan</I><BR>
The nigiri ended on a high note with a minimalist uni preparation. The bright orange roe comes without the common nori wrapper. The result is unfettered sweet saline luxury wrapped in a lush creamy package.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/16.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Shokuji</B> - Soba with Tempura Flake<BR>
<I>Dewazakura Izumi Judan, Junmai Ginjo, Yamagata, Japan</I><BR>
The final savory is a simple no-frills bowl of soba in a warm dashi broth. The dish feels almost laughably simple compared to the rest of the meal but the simplicity makes it easy to appreciate the homey warmth and perfect texture of the noodles.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/17.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Dessert</B> - Black Sesame Creme Brulee, Passion Fruit with Coconut Gelee, Seasonal Fruit<BR>
<I>Hannya Tou, Sweet and Spicy Sake, Fukui, Japan</I><BR>
Dessert consisted of a sampling of treats. The desserts are enjoyable enough but lack the finesse of the savories and feel like almost an afterthought. To be fair, the desserts are better than the typical Sushi restaurant fare, but the most interesting part of the dessert was the wine pairing. A shot of golden sake that starts out with a Juicy Fruit like sweetness that picks up a rising heat.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/18.jpg">
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/19.jpg">
<BR><BR>
After six visits, the progression of courses has become a bit predictable but the technique and quality are as impressive as ever.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141011_nnaka/Receipt.jpg">
<BR><BR>
Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-68296379094333072132014-11-12T13:14:00.002-08:002014-11-12T13:16:50.539-08:00Maude - 11/11/2014212 S Beverly Dr<BR>
Beverly Hills, CA 90212<BR>
(310) 859-3418<BR>
<BR>
This marks my third trip to Maude this year and it has been one of my most anticipated meal since I first learned about it. For those who don't know, Maude's menu is based around a theme ingredient that changes every month and this month's ingredient is the always-prized Truffle. Getting a reservation at Maude requires persistence and luck in any month and November was sure to be worse than most. Indeed I called over 100 times with no luck but fortunately another of my dining group managed to make it through.
<BR><BR>
<B>Snack: Cannoli</B> - White Truffle Ricotta, Celeriac, Parmesan<BR>
As always, the meal at Maude opened with a couple snacks. First up was a mini-cannoli filled with creamy ricotta spiked with a soft fragrance of white truffle while the shell itself was reminiscent of a tuile both in terms of texture and its slight sugary sweetness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141111_maude/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Snack: Pop Tart</B> - Onion, Black Truffle<BR>
Our second little bite was an uber-luxe Pop Tart. The bite has a toasty crumbled texture as one would expect as well as a pungent onion sweetness tinged with truffle.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141111_maude/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>1: Soup</B> - Potato, Kohlrabi, Escarole<BR>
<I>Rene Geoffroy, "Empriente," 1er Cru, Aÿ, Champagne France 2007</I><BR>
Moving on to our first course we were presented with a verdant cream of kohlrabi and escarole over which our servers poured a hearty cream of potato and truffle soup. The truffles come through clearly in the rich brown potage but the bitter nutty restraint of the vegetables helped temper the mixture.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141111_maude/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>2: Squash Salad</B> - Persimmon, Truffle Vinaigrette, Brown Butter<BR>
<I>Occhipinti, "SP68," Sicilia, Italy 2012</I><BR>
Squash and salad are two of my least favorite words when it comes to food so I was pleasantly surprised by this course. Neither the squash nor the persimmon had the cloying weight that they so often convey, instead their muted sweetness was an integral element grounding the more astringent vegetables and the caramelized savor of the brown butter. The SP68 proved to be the best pairing of the night. On its own the wine has lots of ripe apricot but also a whiff of egg-y funk, but when taken with the salad the wine shows a bit more expansive and nuanced character
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141111_maude/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>3: Scallop Crudo</B> - Truffle Soil, Beets, Salsify<BR>
<I>Dominio do Bebei, "Lapola," Ribera Sacra, Spain 2011</I><BR>
The words scallop crudo are pretty much always music to my ears. Maude's rendition is less a true raw preparation as it is seared on one side. Though still rare I found the texture a touch firmer than I'd like, the flavor was a superb mix of saline-sweetness and a perfect compliment to the rough crunchy soil of truffle and hazelnut. The pickled salsify was a wonderful addition, bringing a crisp succulent brightness while the dollops of beet juice added an intense but short lived sweetness that complimented the dish nicely.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141111_maude/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>4: Hen Egg</B> - Brioche, Creamed Leek, Alba Truffle<BR>
<I>Liquid Farm, "White Hill," Chardonnay, Sta. Rita Hills, CA 2012</I><BR>
Eggs and truffle are a classic no brainer, and indeed the silky yolk coupled with the Alba truffles are a thing of beauty. Still Chef Stone doesn't stop there, resting the yolk on a bed of soft creamy leeks and a sprinkled with smoky bits of brioche. The combination made me think of a truffled bacon vichyssoise and was easily the most overtly delicious course of the night.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141111_maude/06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>5: Turbot</B> - Endive, Spinach, Truffle Coulis<BR>
<I>Chenu, "Aux Clous," 1er Cru, Savigny-les-Beaune, Burgundy, France 2012</I><BR>
The fish course consisted of a beautifully seared turbot. The flaky white fish is more full flavored than most preparations especially with the earthy truffle imparting a smoky relish. Meanwhile the tangy verdant blend adds an extra dimension of countervailing flavors.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141111_maude/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>6a: Hand-Cut Tagliatelle</B> - White Alba Truffle<BR>
<I>Francesco Rinaldi, "Cannubio," Barolo, Piemonte, Italy 2007</I><BR>
In a departure from Maude's normal format, we were offered a choice for our pasta course, either tagliatelle or risotto. Naturally we opted to try both and share. First up was a very al dente pasta, dressed table side with a generous shaving of white truffle and splash of brown butter, pure simple and delicious.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141111_maude/08.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>6b: Risotto</B> - White Alba Truffle<BR>
<I>Francesco Rinaldi, "Cannubio," Barolo, Piemonte, Italy 2007</I><BR>
Truffle risotto has long been one of my favorite things in the world and like the tagliatelle, the risotto was prepared simply really little more than a vehicle for enjoying the earthy fragrance of the white truffle.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141111_maude/09.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>7: Veal Sweetbread</B> - Cauliflower, Sauce Perigord<BR>
<I>Francesco Rinaldi, "Cannubio," Barolo, Piemonte, Italy 2007</I><BR>
The next course was almost a savory intermezzo. A single tender morsel of offal-y sweetbread served in a earthy sweet sauce made from cauliflower and black truffle.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141111_maude/10.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>8: Venison</B> - Parsnip, Matsutake, Chocolate<BR>
<I>B. Levet, "les Journaries," Côte Rôtie, Rhone, France 2007</I><BR>
The final savory was a beautifully crimson slice of seared venison. The meat is quite lean showing off a steely character. The parsnip and chocolate help round out the meaty heft but are a bit too sweet. The sprig of grilled Matsutake proved to be the critical element thanks to a woody musk that ties the plate together.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141111_maude/11.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>9: Teleme</B> - Walnut, Cranberry, Black Truffle<BR>
Our cheese was a mild semi-soft variety that served as an excellent medium for the crumbled black truffle. The white truffle honey provides a brighter floral counterpoint to the weighty black truffle while the toast adds a much needed textural contrast.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141111_maude/12.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Intermezzo: Sorbet</B> - Yogurt, Apple, Celery<BR>
Our first dessert started as a soothing mixture of bright green candied apple and tangy yogurt but the celery infused soup adds a cerebral bitter wrinkle to the mix.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141111_maude/13.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Toffee Cake</B> - Alba Truffle Ice Cream, Raisin, Pomegranite<BR>
<I>Boxler, "Sommerberg," Grand Cru, Riesling Vendages Tardives, Alsace, France 2009</I><BR>
Our formal dessert was a rich toffee cake soaked in lemon giving the pastry a built in restraint. The truffle vanilla ice cream was equally impressive suffusing the palate with an even truffle and vanilla bouquet.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141111_maude/14.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Mignardises</B> - Palet d'or, White Truffle Truffle, Black Truffle Macaron<BR>
Our meal ended with three superb little treats. The Truffle and Macaron were straightforwardly delicious where the Palet d'or was a bit more complex with a buttery puff pastry contrast to the truffled and chocolate.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141111_maude/15.jpg">
<BR><BR>
As expected, Chef Stone delivers once again, putting together a menu showcasing the versatility and range of truffles. Some courses follow classic approaches that celebrate the sublime musk of the prized fungus while others take a more cerebral approach using truffles to compliment or enhance.
<BR><BR>
Recently an <a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/10/09/chef-curtis-stone_n_5903668.html" target="_blank">article</a> came out about Curtis Stone saying that he opened Maude to prove he was a chef and not just a TV personality. Judging from my three experiences I have to say mission accomplished!
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/141111_maude/Receipt.jpg">
<BR><BR>
Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-10273557680999005602014-11-03T23:33:00.001-08:002014-11-03T23:35:19.140-08:00Sushi Tsujita - 09/13/20142006 Sawtelle Blvd<BR>
Los Angeles, CA 90025<BR>
(310) 231-1177<BR>
<BR><BR>
I gotta say I had my doubts when I first heard about this place. Tsujita made his name on the strength of his ramen. His initial restaurant Tsujita L.A Artisan Noodle was so popular he had to open another spot (Tsujita Annex) to handle the overflow so I was a bit skeptical when he opted to open an Edomae-style sushi spot. Still I was relieved to hear that Tsujita hired Shigeru Kato, a sushi chef with 35 years of experience to lead the restaurant. That and the good initial reviews were enough to pique my curiosity.
<BR><BR>
<I>2006 Shafer Chardonnay Red Shoulder Ranch, Napa, California</I><BR>
Rather than stick to our usual routine of ake, we opted to bring a couple chards to pair with the meal. First up was a rich full bodied Chard, the aroma couples an apparent butteriness with a countervailing green fruit acidity; while the palate has additional unexpectedly heavy notes of caramel.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/Wine_01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Awabi</B> - Spinach, Yuba, Yuzu<BR>
The meal got off to a strong start with abalone cured in kelp then steamed to a sublimely delicate tenderness. The abalone's inherent flavor is deepened by the savor of kelp. The touch of citrus adds a cool fragrant levity while the vegetables highlight the abalone's earthy heft. A sliver of piquant pickled carrot conveys a streak of sharp discordant acidity that shakes up the conventional flavor profiles.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Hassun</B> - Ginnan, Ayu Tempura, Ayu Ukura, Ayu Nitsuke<BR>
The second course was actually a series of small tastes. First up was a quartet of salt grilled ginko. The crust can be a bit over salted, but the sweet nutty flavor of the nuts gives way to a pleasant earthy bitterness. The remaining appetizers were an interesting study of Ayu or Sweetfish. First up was a deep fried version of the fish that tasted like a cross between fish and a potato chip. Next up was my favorite, raw strips of sweetfish are paired with punchy caviar and a subtle citrus twang. The third version was a lightly simmered preparation loaded with a complex melange of sweet soy, ginger, and umami though the texture left something to be desired.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Kinmedai</B> - Golden Eye Snapper<BR>
Unlike other restaurants Sushi Tsujita intersperses the kaiseki with single pieces of nigiri. Served on a bed of softly packed warm rice, the fish has a soft fleshy texture and even oily flavor enlivened with a touch of spice
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Kasago Ushiojiru</B> - Matsutake, Mitsuba, Kabosu<BR>
Next up was a classic clam broth enriched with rockfish, mushrooms and citrus. The broth itself has a clean subdued salinity coupled with a woody autumnal warmth from the mushrooms. The accompanying herbs add a streak of bitter aromatics while the slice of Kabosu imbues the mixture with a mouth puckering twang.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Sashimi</B> - Honmaguro Zuke & Uni, Hata<BR>
Next up was an small but sublime sashimi course. I started with the marinated Bluefin drenched in aggressive soy savor and paired with a sweet countervailing envelope of creamy uni. The Hata or grouper had a much more nuanced flavor with oily flavors reminiscent of Amberjack or Yellowtail.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<I>2006 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, France</I><BR>
Our second wine was a much more refined affair. The nose is a bouquet of soft white flowers with stonefruit and just the slightest edge of acidity. The palate is much more structured and sophisticated with a mix of minerality, acid, and an undercurrent of oaky power.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/Wine_02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Honmaguro Chutoro</B> - Medium Fatty Bluefin Tuna<BR>
Time for another sushi interlude, this time a ruby sliver of tuna threaded with fine ivory threads of rich fat. Indeed the fish exemplifies both aspects of tuna, the clean steely twang of akami intermingled with the oily richness of toro.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Nogoduro</B> - Myoga, Mustard, Truffle<BR>
Our final composed plate centered around two immaculate flakes of grilled Blackthroat Sea Perch (Nogoduro/Akamutsu). The mild whitefish has a spry spongy mouth feel and acts as the perfect mild platform for the earthy truffle and sharp zest of the myoga. A pile of grated mustard finishes the dish, imparting a darkly spicy savor.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Hobo</B> - Sea Robin<BR>
Rather than begin with the common Tai, our chef Kazu opted to start with another mild fish. The soft pinkish flesh had a touch of sinewy toughness that I found quite distinctive.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/08.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Benizake</B> - Sockeye Salmon<BR>
Texturally this was the polar opposite of the last piece, soft and flabby, the fish had little flavor besides the classic combination of soy and wasabi.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/09.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Seki Saba</B> - Mackerel<BR>
Next up was a real treat, this prized mackerel takes the name of the Saganoseki area from which it is fished. Unlike most mackerel, Seki Saba can be served uncured meaning while the fish certainly has some characteristic oiliness there are other more nuanced flavors and a more succulent mouth feel than the traditional mackerel.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/10.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Honmaguro Toro</B> - Fatty Bluefin Tuna<BR>
Having already tried the lean and medium tunas it was time for the O-toro to make an appearance. Compared to the Chu-toro, the color is several shades lighter, with larger more pronounced marbling. The fish came topped with an amber dashi jelly which highlighted the savory notes of the fish. A sprinkling of yuzu zest helps hold the weightiest notes of the fish at bay.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/11.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<I>Tengumai, Junmai, Ishikawa</I><BR>
Our second wine all but dispensed with, we decided to pick up some sake to pair with the latter half of our meal. The sake is a bit blunter than I was expecting, don't go looking for flowers or fruit here, instead the booze shows off a singularly rice-y character.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/Sake.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Sanma</B> - Matsutake, Kabosu<BR>
Pike Mackerel is always a treat with its distinctive oily flavor that was made to be matched with the earthy majesty of the Matsutake. A quick squeeze of the Kabosu add a bright fragrant citrus counterpoint to the bite.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/12.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Miyazaki Wagyu</B> - Wasabi, Garlic Chips, Radish<BR>
Next up was a decadent Wagyu beef from the Miyazaki Prefecture. As can be seen from the picture the veins of marbling are almost as thick as the actual meat. Indeed the rare beef was every bit as good as it looked, pairing a touch of meaty char with the buttery fat and a velvety soft texture that feels sensual on the palate. It goes without saying that the meat needed no adornment, but I enjoyed the tempering effects of the radish as well as the cleansing heat of the wasabi.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/13.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Ikura-Uni Don</B><BR>
Next up was a classic pairing of salmon and sea urchin roes on a bed of sushi rice and topped with toasted seaweed. After some of the more intricate dishes this seems almost laughably simple, but the utterly pristine quality of the seafood made every last bite a delight to be savored.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/14.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Bachiko</B> - Sea Cucumber Roe<BR>
This was a relative rarity that I've only had once before. The sea cucumber roe is unabashedly salty with a tinge of fishiness and a chewy almost meat like texture reminiscent of beef jerky.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/15.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Otoro Tataki</B> - Seared Fatty Tuna<BR>
Moving back to nigiri we were presented with a seared toro that was practically dripping with smoky rendered fat. The explosive flavor leaves one craving another bite but the sheer unctuousness would get overwhelming fast.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/16.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Suzuki</B> - Sea Bass<BR>
<BR>
Next up was a sea bass marinated in kelp. The process dries the fish out leaving behind a denser almost tacky texture while imbuing the fish with a healthy dose of salt and glutamate.
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/17.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Amaebi </B> - Sweet Shrimp<BR>
Classic Amaebi, sweet, dense and crunchy with a clean steely flavor tempered by the soy. The head was no slouch either with the exterior shell fried to a chip like crispness while the rest had a nice saline meatiness wrapped in a delicious fried sapor.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/18.jpg">
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/20.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Tai</B> - Sea Bream<BR>
Not officially part of the menu we thought this was a must order. The mild white fish was a bit on the drier side, with a sticky denser texture and more apparent flavor. Still the sea salt and yuzu definitely dominate on the palate.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/19.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Yari Ika</B> - Spear Squid<BR>
The Yari Ika starts off a bit leaner than the typical squid, but mastication still extracts the same creamy texture and subtle briny sweetness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/21.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Kohada</B> - Gizzard Shad<BR>
Next up was a beautifully flecked cut of Gizzard Shad. The fish had a sharp oiliness on the attack but the flavor seemed to fade away relatively quickly making this one of the more balanced Kohada I've had.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/22.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Kisu</B> - Japanese Whiting<BR>
While the flavor on the Kisu was typically mild, the fish definitely had one of the most memorable textures thanks to its almost muscular snappy crunch.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/23.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Myoga</B> - Japanese Ginger<BR>
The Myoga was an unconventional but welcome bite, with the succulence and peppery bite helping to cleanse the palate of any lingering fish oil. I wish more places would serve something like this to finish a long omakase.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/24.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Kasutera Tamago</B> - Egg Cake<BR>
I was pleased to find Tsujita serves the Tamago in cake form rather than the classic preparation. Dense and eggy upfront there is a bit of caramelized sweetness and salinity on the back end.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/25.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Anago</B> - Sea Eel<BR>
The final piece of the night was a tender Anago brushed with a generous coating of sweet sauce to compliment the eel's smoky char.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/26.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Honeydew</B><BR>
This reminded me of the dessert at Kyubei in Tokyo. The stunningly juicy honeydew, dripping with sweetness, served as a fitting close to one of the best meals I've had all year.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/27.jpg">
<BR><BR>
We came here to celebrate Kevin's much belated birthday so the restaurant was kind enough to whip up an impromptu birthday "cake" of mochi, jelly, and fruit.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/28.jpg">
<BR><BR>
I've got to say the restaurant more than exceeded my expectations. The quality seafood, thoughtfully prepared cooked dishes, and pristine nigiri make Sushi Tsujita an absolute must try.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140913_sushi_tsujita/Receipt.jpg">
<BR><BR>
Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-4476320488120404082014-09-21T19:41:00.001-07:002014-11-30T16:32:04.756-08:00Sushi Zo - 08/02/2014334 S Main St<BR>
Los Angeles, CA 90013<BR>
(213) 935-8409<BR>
<BR><BR>
When I first met Chef Keizo Seki, he was an unheralded chef struggling to fill his restaurant even on a Saturday night a nondescript restaurant in West LA called Sushi Zo. Since then he has cemented his reputation as one of LA's premiere sushi chefs and opened a second restaurant in Downtown LA. Both restaurants offer similar nigiri focused omakase with a couple appetizers to start.
<BR><BR>
<B>Kumamoto Oyster</B> - Ponzu, Daikon, Chives<BR>
This oyster displayed all the charms of a classic Kumamoto, the sweet creamy core and tender foot muscle are brightened with the tangy zip of the ponzu.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Meibachi Sashimi</B> - Big Eye Tuna<BR>
Most high-end sushi restaurants serve Bluefin but in a slight concession to sustainability, Keizo has opted to serve Meibachi instead of Hon Maguro. Lighter colored then its more prized cousin, the fish had an unexpected butteriness rather than the clean purity of lean Bluefin.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Awabi</B> - Abalone<BR>
A leaner firmer example of abalone, the mollusk had a mild but ever-present salinity tinged with earth. The side of yuzu kocho lends the shellfish a dark citrus spice, though the abalone was enjoyable au natural as well.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Uni & Ika Somen Spaghetti</B> - with Truffle Salt<BR>
The last of the appetizers consisted of thinly sliced raw squid that vaguely resembles somen noodles. The Hokkaido specialty comes drenched in a sweet sauce of sea urchin cream topped with a musky dusting of truffle salt.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Hirame</B> - Halibut<BR>
The first sashimi was a lean cut of snappy halibut, the pale translucent flesh didn't have much flavor but reflected the lemon and salt it came seasoned with.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Bincho Magruo</B> - Albacore<BR>
The raw Albacore proved to be one of the evening's standouts. The delicately segmented fish came drenched in tangy ponzu, the perfect counterpoint to the sweet buttery alabaster flesh.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/06.JPG">
<BR><BR>
<B>Hotate</B> - Live Scallop<BR>
Quintessential fresh scallop, the thick slab of shellfish exudes sweetness tempered by the application of acid and soy.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Aji</B> - Spanish Mackerel<BR>
Next up was a pristine piece of Aji, the fish has a jelled fleshy texture and unabashed oiliness tempered by the spicy bite of the grated ginger.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/08.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Meibachi Chutoro</B> - Medium-fatty Big Eye Tuna<BR>
Though I'm not complaining, Zo always serves two pieces of toro instead of one like all the other nigiri. Though only the middle grade of toro, the meat still felt immensely soft and buttery with a heady oily twang to it.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/09.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Kanpachi</B> - Amberjack<BR>
The beautifully pristine piece of uniformly colored amberjack had a wonderful nuanced fishiness on the attack that faded once the yuzu kocho came into play.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/10.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Amaebi</B> - Sweet Shrimp<BR>
This was a softer creamier presentation of sweet shrimp. For my part I prefer Amaebi with a lean crunchy texture over the soft tacky mouthfeel of this example, but the sweetness was a nice change from the metallic flavor that often accompanies leaner shrimp.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/11.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Akamutsu</B> - Sea Perch<BR>
Almost unheard of when I was first getting into sushi, Akamutsu has become more popular the past yar or so. The fish's high fat content lends itself well to searing and the subsequent subtle smoky interplay.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/12.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Kurodai</B> - Black Sea Bream<BR>
My first experience with Kurodai was at Zo I've had a soft spot for the fish ever since. This was a relatively lean expression of the fish with more subdued flavors which worked quite nicely with the flourish of truffle salt.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/13.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Mirugai Tataki</B> - Seared Geoduck<BR>
The chefs at Zo put a little twist on the traditional Mirugai. A quick kiss of the torch adds a touch of woody depth and softens the texture giving it a slight chew as opposed to the typical crisp snappiness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/14.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Tai</B> - Red Snapper<BR>
This was a classic expression of snapper, the fish has a brisk crispness while the combo of salt and citrus is particularly apparent against the fish's intrinsic mildness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/15.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Gindara Tataki</B> - Seared Black Cod<BR>
My first experience with Black Cod was at the original Zo and its been a consistent companion. The cooked fish has a buttery heft and delicate supple flakiness. The white miso adds a honey mustard like twang that rounds out the smoky heft of the fish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/16.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Uni</B> - Sea Urchin<BR>
Textbook San Diego Uni, the lush roe was perfectly chilled and exuded a rich chilled creamy sweetness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/17.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Ikura</B> - Salmon Roe<BR>
As always the uni is followed by a gunkan roll topped with salmon roe. The beautiful orange orbs are filled with a umami and smoke laced brine that takes on a slightly sweet cast with the rice and seaweed.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/18.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Kamasu Tataki</B> - Seared Barracuda<BR>
Kamasu is consistently a highlight of any sushi meal. This was a bit leaner than most with lots of bitter char upfront and a bitter astringency from the ginger.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/19.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Shima Aji</B> - Striped Jack<BR>
Another favorite of mine, Shima Aji has gone from a relative rarity to a staple of every high end sushi spot. The fish has a sensual jellied texture and complex oiliness. The grilled shishito topping was an inventive compliment, vegetal smoky and a touch of pickled tang.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/20.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Kinmedai</B> - Golden Eye Snapper<BR>
The Kinmedai is the most full flavored of the snapper varieties with a pronounced marbling threaded through the pinkish translucent flesh. The jellied texture and decadent oiliness goes beautifully with rich savor of the soy.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/21.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Sake</B> - Salmon<BR>
The Alaskan Salmon was one of the most lackluster pieces of the night. Certainly better than the typical run of the mill salmon but it felt boring compared to the rest of the meal.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/22.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Tako</B> - Octopus<BR>
The formal omakase dispensed with, we decided to add a few supplements. First up was an immensely tender meaty octopus laced with a darkly sweet syrup. I was hoping for a raw octopus, but the delicately steamed preparation certainly had its charms.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/23.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Anago</B> - Sea Eel<BR>
I always have mixed feelings when the anago arrives as it typically heralds the end of the meal. Zo echews the typical sweet eel preparation in favor of an earthy dusting of truffle salt.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/24.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Toro Temaki</B> - Fatty Tuna Handroll<BR>
Zo isn't known for its rolls but like most high end sushi spots, the restaurant does offer hand rolls to fill in the cracks. This was little more than fish rice and seaweed. Personally I would have liked to see some scallion or radish, some wrinkle to add character to the roll.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/25.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Tamago</B> - Egg<BR>
The meal ended with a prototypically hammy tamago saturated with sweet syrup.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/26.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Yuzu Juice</B><BR>
As always the meal ended with a shot yuzu juice to close out the meal. The sharp sweet & sour tang cleans the palate beautifully.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/27.jpg">
<BR><BR>
As always the food at Zo was spectacular and I consider the restaurants my favorite in LA for pure sushi. If I had to find one fault with Zo its the lack of change in the omakase menu. While I could understand how people would hesitate to pay the $150+ tariff more than once, I have found every meal here well worth the price.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140802_sushi_zo/Receipt.jpg">
<BR><BR>Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-8032665629363615612014-08-24T23:20:00.000-07:002014-08-24T23:21:52.002-07:00L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon - 07/11/20143799 Las Vegas Blvd S<BR>
Las Vegas, NV 89109<BR>
(702) 891-7358<BR>
<BR>
My first visit to Joel Robuchon in early 2008 remains one of my most memorable meals. Since then, I've returned to the restaurant twice, but somehow never made it next door to check out their sister restaurant L'Atelier De Joel Robuchon (aside from a quick stop for a $33 slider).
<BR><BR>
L'Atelier, which translates to work shop is one of nine such restaurants around the globe, a haute cusine chain if you will. The restaurants tend to share a similar style with an open kitchen surrounded by a sushi bar like seating arrangement. Likewise the menu is a bit more varied, featuring a la carte, small tasting portions, prix fixe, and a 10-course menu decouverte.
<BR><BR>
<B>L'AMUSE-BOUCHE</B> - l'avocat rafraîchi d'une fine gelée de pamplemousse à la coriandre<BR>
Our amuse certainly did its job, tantalizing the palate with fresh acidity from the grapefruit with a creeping herbaceous bitterness. Tiny flecks of coriander added short-lived pinpricks of spice while the avocado brought a countervailing creaminess to the delicate gelée
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140711_latelier_de_joel_robuchon/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>LA SAINT-JACQUES</B> - la noix émincée finement à l'hile vierge acidulée<BR>
The scallop dish couldn't be more different from the course served at L'Atelier's big brother. There its all about unabashed butter-laden luxury. This course takes a more subtle approach with the alabaster slivers coated in a floral fruity mixture of lemon and olive oil brightened with a hint of spice and zesty chives.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140711_latelier_de_joel_robuchon/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>LE PIQUILLO</B> - à l'aubergine fumée, ventrêche de thon confit<BR>
A riff on a popular Basque region tapas, this dish drew its inspiration from Spain rather than France. The characteristic smoky vegetal twang of the pepper takes center stage. Paper thin toast points add a pleasing crunch to the dish; a nice contrast to the tenderness of the pepper. The tuna was a double-edged sword, on one hand I enjoyed the fish's oily smack, but the texture was a bit dry.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140711_latelier_de_joel_robuchon/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>LES CALAMARES</B> - en salade asperge verts et shimeji sur un riz cuit façon sushi<BR>
Well prepared squid can be a real treat and this lived up to my lofty expectations. The thin squid "noodles" convey a subtle char-wrapped salinity a natural compliment for the packed sushi rice. The salad of fresh asparagus adds color both literally and figuratively. Taken together the dish had a flavor reminiscent of Chinese steamed fish, unexpected but not unpleasant.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140711_latelier_de_joel_robuchon/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>LE FOIE GRAS</B> - crémeux sous une gelée chaude de poule au curcuma<BR>
I didn't realize just how much I missed foie gras till I tasted it again. Actually the chicken broth custard stood on its own; clean and rich with a hint of peppery warmth and a silky texture reminiscent of chawanmushi. The herbs and vegetables were quite effective as well, their austerity helping to temper the sweet buttery richness of the liver.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140711_latelier_de_joel_robuchon/06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>LE SAINT PIERRE</B> - ravigoté d'une sauce vierge à la citronnelle<BR>
The evening's fish course was a dense filet of John Dory. Browned in a lemongrass olive oil, the Dory had plenty of complexity and depth of flavor. The finely diced tomatoes added a fresh succulence and salsa-like zest.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140711_latelier_de_joel_robuchon/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>LA CAILLE</B> - caramélisée et servie avec une purée de pommes de terre<BR>
The first entree choice is a free range quail. While the bird had a nice supple texture the flavor left much to be desired. I was expecting the gaminess of the bird to be heightened with a livery twang from the foie. Instead the sticky concentrated dark sauce stole the show rendering the bird into an extremely gentrified teriyaki chicken.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140711_latelier_de_joel_robuchon/08.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>LA HAMPE</B> - de boeuf en tranches, échalotes confites et shishitos grillés<BR>
The hanger steak was far more impressive than the quail. The meat has a coarse meaty grain and a pronounced beefy twang heightened with aromatics from the roasted shallots. The simple preparation and minimal accompaniments allow the steak to stand on its own.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140711_latelier_de_joel_robuchon/09.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>LA FRAISE</B> - Sur une légère ganache au citron rafraichie d'un sorbet a la tomet cerise<BR>
Our first dessert combined ripe strawberries and tart lemon with the savory vegetal note of tomato. The dessert is further embellished with bits of toasty crunch and subdued herbs; a mixture reminiscent of a fruity Bloody Mary.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140711_latelier_de_joel_robuchon/10.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>LA CERISE</B> - sablé de cacahuète au chocolat sur une glace à l'Amarena<BR>
The final course on the Menu Decouverte draw's on a classic mixture of cherry and chocolate. The ripe cherry is immediately apparent in the form of a succulent fruit tinged with medicinal bitterness. The sablé explodes with nutty relish and provides a dry crumbly texture to balance the cherry ice cream.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140711_latelier_de_joel_robuchon/11.jpg">
<BR><BR>
As was to be expected, L'Atelier lacks the fomality of its 3-star sibling, but still offers a top-notch dining experience. The decor at L'Atelier has a more dynamic and contemporary than the opulent Parisan apartment next door. While the bar stools aren't quite as comfortable as overstuffed velvet couches, the hustle and bustle of the open kitchen and sexy black/red decor certainly have their charms. Likewise the service at L'Atelier lacks the pomp and solemnity of its big brother, but that doesn't mean it's any less attentive. In fact with the server just across the bar, the experience is far more interactive and less stilted than the prim more reserved staff at Joel Robuchon.
<BR><BR>
Service and decor are just window dressing for the food and again L'Atelier feels more modern and whimsical. The menu doesn't have the same luxury so don't expect the abundance of truffle or caviar featured on the 16-course Degustation Menu at Joel Robuchon. What L'Atelier does bring to the table is a lighter menu with more varied flavor profile rather than the weightier classic French fare next door. While L'Atelier's sophistication and technique don't quite reach the 3-star heights of Joel Robuchon, it is still one of the better spots in Las Vegas.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140711_latelier_de_joel_robuchon/Receipt.jpg">
<BR><BR>Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-71952537812158852562014-07-29T01:55:00.000-07:002014-07-29T01:57:38.640-07:00Petit Trois - 07/28/2014718 N Highland Ave<BR>
Los Angeles, CA 90038<BR>
<BR>
It seems little more than a year ago Ludo finally settled down; teaming up with Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo to open his first permanent restaurant Trois Mec. Late last year I caught wind that he would be opening up his second restaurant, Petit Trois, in the defunct Thai restaurant next door and it immediately catapulted to the top of my list.
<BR><BR>
As more information became available it became clear that Petit Trois would be a completely different beast, more of a neighborhood restaurant than a fine-dining destination. Unlike its big brother, Petit Trois eschews the ticket system in fact the 21-seats are all first come first serve. Similarly the food would be drawn from Ludo's childhood rather than the more progressive cooking at Trois Mec. On another note, at least they bothered to put up some signage this time.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140728_petit_trois/Exterior.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<I>PANACHE</I> - Kronenberg 1664, Rieme Sparkling Limonade<BR>
This reminded me of a drink served at The Playground in Santa Ana. The beer and fruit temper the more extreme aspects of each other resulting in a slightly sweet easy drinking beer.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140728_petit_trois/Cocktail_02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<I>JASMINE & TONIC</I> - Jasmine Vodka, Lime Juice, Tonic<BR>
I opted to start the meal with a play on the classic Gin and Tonic. The drink is light and refreshing though I would have liked a bit more bite.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140728_petit_trois/Cocktail_01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>BREAD & BUTTER</B><BR>
What French Bistro would be complete without fresh bread and butter. The bread comes warm with a dense crusty exterior and plenty of yeasty fragrance. The butter was even more impressive with a stunningly intense buttery flavor.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140728_petit_trois/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<I>BELLOCQ'S SHOT</I> - Rye Whisky, Housemade Pastis Sugar Cube, Creole Bitters<BR>
This was basically a Sazerac re-imagined with the pastis substituting for the Absinthe rinse. The flavors were familiar, but there was a bit too much emphasis on the rye.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140728_petit_trois/Cocktail_03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<I>MARESQUE</I> - Ricard Pastis, Orgeat, Pear Brandy, Lime<BR>
Never having been a fan of licorice I struggled to get past the Pastis. Still beyond the anise-laden attack, the drink had a ripe fruity sweetness laced with a bit of citrus.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140728_petit_trois/Cocktail_04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>TOMATO SALAD</B> - Mussel, Red Onions<BR>
The sweet meaty tomatoes are complimented by the spicy bite of the onion and the verdant fragrance of the basil. The croutons provide a toasty element as well as a stark textural contrast but it is the mussels that truly elevate this dish, bringing a unique smoky nuance to an otherwise conventional tomato salad.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140728_petit_trois/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>STEAK TARTARE</B> - Frites, Lettuces<BR>
The steak tartare came to the table pre-mixed. The meat had a finer texture than most with bits of either capers or cornichons mixed in giving the meat a slightly creamy mouthfeel and an inherent astringency to compliment the weightiness of the beef. The accompanying salad had a keen acidity while the thick toast had a slightly caramelized rusticity that complimented the tartare nicely.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140728_petit_trois/03_01.jpg">
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140728_petit_trois/03_02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>CHICKEN LEG</B> - Brioche Butter, Green Salad, Parsley<BR>
Definitely one of the most impressive roast chicken legs that I've ever eaten. The skin is nicely crisped and topped with bits of buttery brioche crumbs that exude decadent butteriness. Personally I found the deboned thigh a touch dry, but the leg was perfectly cooked.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140728_petit_trois/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>OMELETTE</B> - Chives, Boursin Cheese, Boston Lettuce, Dijon Vinaigrette<BR>
I don't think I've ever ordered an omelette outside of breakfast but the buzz surrounding this dish left me curious. Indeed, the eggs are light and fluffy and the filling of melted cheese and fresh black pepper add a surprisingly profound depth of flavor that is deftly balanced by the bright twang of the salad. This was hands down the best omelette that I've ever eaten and I can see how it has become Petit Trois' early signature dish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140728_petit_trois/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<I>PETIT PRINCE</I> - Gin, Crème de Violette, Lemon, Luxardo<BR>
This was the most challenging cocktail for me, I've always struggled with Luxardo, the disconcerting medicinal flavor overrode all other elements of this cocktail.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140728_petit_trois/Cocktail_05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<I>BARDOT</I> - Gin, Suze, Ruby Grapefruit, St. Germain<BR>
This proved to be my favorite cocktail. The aroma is reminiscent of yuzu jam but the flavor has a refreshing cucumber like bite.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140728_petit_trois/Cocktail_06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>STEAK FRITES</B> - Onion Soup Sauce<BR>
The final course centers is arguably the most recognizable bistro dish: Steak Frites. Ludo chose to serve the traditional Steak Frites cut: rump steak and though the meat was a bit tough compared to more commonly served entrecôte, but serving one of those would be missing the point. Ludo's creation respects the culinary tradition but augments the flavor with an infusion of umami sweetness from the French onion soup
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140728_petit_trois/06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>CHEESE PLATE</B> - Chabichou, Reblochon, Camembert<BR>
Fittingly, the cheese plate at Petit Trois is composed entirely of French cheeses. First up was Chabichou, a soft goat cheese that was definitely the leanest blending the characteristic Caprine essence coupled with a touch of astringency. The Reblochon, a cow's milk cheese from Savoy has a much sweeter fattier flavor with a touch of nutty funk. Finally the Camembert was the softest, ripest and most pungent of the three cheeses.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140728_petit_trois/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<I>RAPID FIRE</I> - Gin, Spiced Wine Reduction, Champagne, Lemon<BR>
Despite having finished our meal we ordered the final cocktail for completeness sake. The reduced wine and gin temper each other leaving a muted herbal sweetness. The champagne isn't immediately noticeable except for the hint of effervescence.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140728_petit_trois/Cocktail_07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>NAPOLEON</B> - Taihitian Vanilla<BR>
I thought this dessert succinctly captured Petit Trois charm. The flavor profile couldn't be simpler; a combination of buttery puff pastry with soft vivid vanilla, but the execution from the perfect harmony of flavor to the lovely textural contrast between the cream and pastry exemplifies the bistro philosophy of high-quality yet modest cooking.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140728_petit_trois/08.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>CHOCOLATE CAKE</B> - Whipped Cream<BR>
The final dessert was a straightforward chocolate cake. The decadent purity of the chocolate contrasted beautifully with the whipped airy levity of the cream though I found the cake just the slightest bit too dry for my tastes.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140728_petit_trois/09.jpg">
<BR><BR>
Petit Trois serves inventive, impeccably-executed hearty bistro fare; don't expect to find pear kimchi chutney or black olive molé. The food is a departure from Ludo's traditional globe-spanning cuisine, but for someone who has made a career defying convention, Petit Trois was a refreshing look at the classic French cuisine of his formative years.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140728_petit_trois/Receipt.jpg">
<BR><BR>Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-28031864210263636542014-07-08T18:10:00.000-07:002014-07-08T18:11:52.555-07:00Allumette - 06/28/20141320 Echo Park Avenue<BR>
Los Angeles, CA 90026<BR>
(213) 481-0454<BR>
<BR>
Its a shame, but sometimes critical acclaim doesn't translate into commercial success and that seems to be the case with Chef Miles Thompson's Allumette with Jonathan Gold placing the restaurant smack dab in the middle of his 101 top restaurants in LA. For my part, I've watched Thompson since his <a href="http://tangbro1.blogspot.com/2012/07/the-vagrancy-project-ayc-07242012.html" target="_blank">Vagrancy Project</a> breathed new life into the tired Allston Yacht Club. Given the pop-up's success I wasn't surprised when Thompson took up permanent residence in the space, replacing the defunct Yacht Club with <a href="http://tangbro1.blogspot.com/2013/02/allumette-02082013.html" target="_blank">Allumette</a>. Given my affection for the restaurant it was only fitting for me to be there to celebrate its final night of service.
<BR><BR>
<B>POTATO CHIPS</B> - Smoked Whitefish, Uni Cream, Chive<BR>
First up was a sextet of gentrified potato chips. While I thought I would favor the uni cream, it was actually the biting saline smoke of the whitefish that stood out. In either case both seafood sauces paired well with the crisp savory chips
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140628_allumette/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>BABY TORPEDO ONION PANISSE</B> - Meyer Lemon Mustard, Hibiscus, Cilantro<BR>
Next up were dense savory cubes that exuded an aroma of sweet caramelized onions. The torpedos were heightened by the zesty bite of the mustard and the twang of the pickled hibiscus.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140628_allumette/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>POTATOES A LA PLANCHA</B> - Furikake Aioli, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Katsuobushi<BR>
The final of the three snacks also proved to be the most substantial. Grilled potato hemispheres laced with a three-pronged dose of umami from the furikake, bonito flakes and shredded cheese.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140628_allumette/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>FOCCACIA</B> - Lava Salt, Marscarpone Potato Ball<BR>
Allumette's composed bread course remains one of the best bread services I've had in recent memory. The grilled bread carries a heady char and crunchy texture while the potato cheese ball conveys a buttery rush wrapped up in a satisfying starchy package.
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140628_allumette/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
Allumette's formal menu consists of 10 distinct dishes divided into four courses with an option for an additional savory course. Naturally I coordinated with one of my companions to divide and conquer in order to try the entire menu.
<BR><BR>
<B>CUCUMBERS</B> - Apricot Fennel Comopte, Ripe & Unripe Berries, White Chocolate<BR>
<I>Brut N.V., Michelle, Domaine ste. Michelle</I><BR>
Cucumbers are one of my favorite vegetables, a delightful blend of crispiness and succulence with a clean freshness on the palate. The vegetable itself is subsumed by the sweet and sour melange of fruits while the chocolate adds a weighty creamy sweetness to balance the austerity of the fruit and vegetables.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140628_allumette/05a.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>RED PRAWN</B> - Vinegar Meringue, Rice Paper, Tokyo Negi<BR>
<I>Cider, Anthem Hops, Wandering Aengus Ciderworks</I><BR>
The prawn was one of the stars of the evening. The perfectly cooked crustacean has a light translucence and beautiful snap. Hints of spice and heady char compliment the prawn's inherent salinity while the accompaniments bring a blend of tang sweetness and saltiness that is deliciously cerebral.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140628_allumette/05b.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>SUMMER SQUASH</B> - White Corn Fondue, June Garlic Miso, Sage<BR>
<I>Sauvignon, Erste + Neue, '12, Alto Adige</I><BR>
I've never been a fan of squash but proved to be one of the night's standout courses. The bright beautiful medley of herbs, flowers, and vegetables convey an unexpectedly weighty savor that winds down to a lingering sapid fried heft.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140628_allumette/06a.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>ARROWTIP SQUID</B> - Pistachio Ponzu, Cherry, Black Mint<BR>
<I>Sake, Gokun Honjozo, 'the Five Disciplines'</I><BR>
In terms of texture the squid was spot on, a touch rough on the char with a dense snappy body throughout. In terms of flavor the gentle salinity of the squid plays second fiddle to the punchy tangy onion and the lightly bitter mint. The combination is light and refreshing but I would have liked the squid to be more apparent.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140628_allumette/06b.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>OCTOPUS</B> - Za'atar Yogurt, Okra Caviar, Plum<BR>
<I>Plum Rush</I> - CapRock Gin, Smoked Salted Plum, Sage Honey, Lemon<BR>
The second half savories definitely had more weight to them. Though the octopus was actually fairly sparse, the darkly grilled meat had plenty of smoke and vigor; shame the tentacles were a bit overcooked. The salty plum and twang of the yogurt represent a deft blend of Asian and Mediterranean flavors, that is quixotic yet undeniably effective.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140628_allumette/07a.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>IVORY KING SALMON</B> - Soured Celtuce, Radish, Beet Syrup<BR>
<I>Sherry, Amantillado, Alvear, Montilla</I><BR>
The octopus' counter part was a filet of salmon. Light color and dry texture aside the dish was nicely put together with the radish and pickled celtuce countering the viscous sweetness of the beet syrup
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140628_allumette/07b.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>BRANZINO</B> - Shellfish Tapioca, Fried Broccoli, Lemon<BR>
<I>Chenin Blanc, Fielded Recordings, '10, Santa Ynez</I><BR>
The first of the two additions was a branzino topped with crispy skin and dense tender meatiness. With its potent shellfish relish, the snappy tapioca is a natural accompaniment to fish. The broccoli and lemon convey a slight wrinkle of bitterness but let the umami and savor shine through.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140628_allumette/08a.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>PORK COLLAR</B> - Pho Charcoal, Eggplant Mayonnaise, Pickled Wasabi<BR>
<I>Cabernet Franc, Le Rocher des Violettes, '11, Touraine</I><BR>
The pork was easily the strongest course of the meal's second half. The meat is firm but with just enough fat to keep the texture springy and tender. The char dovetails seamlessly with the collar's porcine savor while the pickles and mustard exude a funky acidity along with the smoky earth of the eggplant mayo.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140628_allumette/08b.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>TOASTED BARLEY POT-de-CRÈME</B> - Feuille de Bric, Strawberry, Rosemary<BR>
<I>Amaro Meletti</I><BR>
The first dessert was an airy whipped pot de cremé. The barley is apparent in the form of a light toasty savor which feels especially pronounced in contrast to the strawberry. The aromatic rosemary forms a bridge between the two ingredients making for a seamlessly cohesive dessert.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140628_allumette/09a.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>LEMONGRASS BAVAROIS</B> - Hibiscus, Oat, Blood Orange<BR>
<I>Rosenhof, Welschriesling, '06, Burgenland</I><BR>
The final course centered around a dense cream redolent of lemongrass. The tangy fragrance is augmented by tart blood orange and sweet hibiscus while the crumbled oats add a weighty pie crust like sweetness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140628_allumette/09b.jpg">
<BR><BR>
Three for three, this meal was another strong performance from Thompson and his crew. While I am sad to see Allumette go, I'm confident Thompson will land on his feet; he is simply far too talented a chef for anything less.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140628_allumette/Receipt.jpg">
<BR><BR>Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-15538758848047760712014-06-14T10:00:00.003-07:002014-06-14T10:01:59.061-07:00Maude - 06/03/2014212 S Beverly Dr<BR>
Beverly Hills, CA 90212<BR>
(310) 859-3418<BR>
<BR>
I came away from my first visit to Maude extremely impressed and with its concept of a monthly theme ingredient I knew I'd be back sooner rather than later. Being an absolute fiend for anything mushroom, I knew morels was an absolute must for me. Unfortunately word about Maude has spread rapidly and reservations have become nigh-impossible to get. Despite calling repeatedly as soon as the Morel menu was available, it was all I could do to get a 5:45 table for two.
<BR><BR>
<B>Popcorn</B> - Australian Winter Truffle<BR>
Our one snack for this meal was a dainty bowl of popcorn topped with morel salt that provided an earthy tone sharpened by the dusting of Australian truffle. I missed the procession of small snacks that preceded my previous meal at Maude but it was hard to complain about this earthy buttered popcorn.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140603_maude/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Risotto</B> - Citrus Butter, Chicken Stuffed Morel<BR>
<I>1992 En Tirage Extra Brut, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California</I><BR>
Our first proper course was a tiny bowl of risotto, little more than two mouthfuls really. Despite the small serving size, the rice was full of flavor rich creamy cheese with an ever so slight twinge of acidity. The morel was equally enchanting with a plump meaty texture and a rich savor from the ground chicken to compliment the morel's pungent musk. The accompanying wine was a domestic sparkler which I tend to shy away from but this had a bit of sherry-like oxidation along with ripe apples and a nutty toasty warmth.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140603_maude/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Kampachi</B> - Avocado, Herbs, Passion Fruit Snow<BR>
<I>2011 Wittmann, Riesling Trocken, Rheinhessen, Germany</I><BR>
The sashimi course showed an intriguing dichotomy between the earth and the fish. The herbs bring a bold flourish of basil while the passion fruit adds a lush juicy refrain. The dusting of togarashi provides a steady prickling burn.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140603_maude/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Soup</B> - Rosemary, Oyster Crackers<BR>
Next up was a gentrified cream of mushroom soup. The thick creamy broth showed an earthy flourish and brown butter pungency coupled with a thick velvety texture. The oyster crackers bring a nice textural contrast while the tiny rosemary sprigs add just a touch of bitter herbaceousness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140603_maude/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Scallop</B> - Wild Garlic, Watermelon Rind, Roe<BR>
<I>2011 La Conreria d'Scala Dei, Priorat Les Brugueres, Catalunya, Spain</I><BR>
The scallop was the only real misstep of the night. In terms of flavor the course was spot on, the gently sweet savor of the scallop amped up buy a foam of scallop roe. Similarly, the fragrant garlic and bright vegetal favas complimented the bivalve beautifully. Unfortunately, for all that the scallop itself was dreadfully overcooked making the texture stringy and rubbery. The wine was a surprisingly well done white Grenache with heavier notes of butterscotch and honey, balanced with sufficient citrus fruit and minerality.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140603_maude/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Duck Egg</B> - Summer Squash, Horseradish, Smoke<BR>
<I>2011 La Conreria d'Scala Dei, Priorat Les Brugueres, Catalunya, Spain</I><BR>
The meal got right back on track with this next course but then again I've always been a soft touch for runny egg yolks. This one came on a bed of verdant summer squash puree and was imbued with a smoky flavor. The piquant tang of the horseradish was a nice counterpoint to the creamy roundedness of the yolk while the bits of onion crumble provided a bacon-bits like savor and texture.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140603_maude/06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Raviolo</B> - Consommé, Truffle Crumble, Watercress<BR>
<I>2009 Passopisciaro, Passopisciaro, Sicily, Italy</I><BR>
The sixth course consisted of a dense meaty raviolo stuffed with scallop mousseline. The dumpling has a rather monolithic generic savor but the consomme provides a pervasive aroma of fresh earth while the bits of crumbled truffle tuilé show both ritzy savor and a touch of fragrant truffles. The leafy watercress adds a focused bitter austerity that tempers the rest of the dish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140603_maude/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Pork Belly</B> - Pickled Morel, Cilantro Jalapeño Puree<BR>
<I>2009 Passopisciaro, Passopisciaro, Sicily, Italy</I><BR>
The braised pork belly was the standout course of the evening. The lean meat is tender and succulent while the skin has a fatty savor and crisp texture. The gravitas of the pork is lightened considerably both the simple yet effective application of pickled vegetables and morels.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140603_maude/08.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Lamb</B> - Green Garbanzo, Eggplant, Leek<BR>
<I>2011 Rosi Schuster, Zweigelt, Burgenland, Austria</I><BR>
Our final savory was a beautifully cooked lamb tenderloin. With the barest hint of game this could have easily passed for beef coupled with a whiff of herbs and mint. The gentle savor of the meat made the all the accompaniments that much more apparent from the buttery heft of the poached morels, to the pea-like verdance of the garbaznos and the smoky relish from the charred leek and eggplants.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140603_maude/09.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Taleggio</B> - Onion, Charred Peach, Nasturtium<BR>
Our cheese course consisted of a soft ball of creamy melty Taleggio. Despite its fairly strong aroma, Taleggio tends to have a mild flavor as well as a slight bitterness that went well with the jammy flavor of the charred peaches and the savor of the onion.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140603_maude/10.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Ice Cream Bar</B> - Coffee & Morel<BR>
Our pre-dessert consisted of a house made ice cream bar. As far as ice cream bars go these were sublime, perfect balance between chocolate shell and creamy vanilla. The coffee nibs accentuate the chocolate's bitterness and add a nice bit of crunch though the morels didn't really come through on this dessert.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140603_maude/11.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Black Forest Floor</B> - Dark Cherry, Chocolate, Hazelnut<BR>
<I>2005 Domaine Piétri-Géraud, Banyuls Cuvée Méditerranée, Languedoc, France</I><BR>
I've had plenty of mushroom based forest floor savories but this was my first time having a sweet version. Indeed the "floor" is made up of dense chocolate cake with bits of cooked bing cherries mixed in. Down below is a sugary caramel cream while the surface also showed nice toasty notes from the crunchy hazelnuts. Classic flavors served in a fun texturally diverse little bowl.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140603_maude/12.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>Mignardises</B> - Tropical Financier, Raspberry & Dark Chocolate Truffle, Strawberry & Chartreuse Hard Candy<BR>
Our meal ended with three creative little treats. First up was a ball tropical "financier" though the dessert lacked the traditional shape I quite enjoyed the mix of coconut and pineapple. Next up was a classic raspberry and dark chocolate concoction tasty but not particularly interesting. Lastly we ended with a hard candy that showed both a touch of berry sweetness and a gentle but persistent booziness from the Chartreuse.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140603_maude/13.jpg">
<BR><BR>
So far Chef Stone is 2 for 2. Despite being the first night of a new menu, the overall experience from the food to the service was all quite polished and on point. As was expected, the Morel menu was noticeably heavier than the citrus menu. I think the deeper earthy flavor of Morels is less adaptable than citrus, but Stone integrates the prized fungus into his dishes very effectively. Time and fortune permitting I'd love to come back towards the end of the month to see how the menu has evolved.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140603_maude/14.jpg">
<BR><BR>Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-90626229753934916272014-05-26T17:30:00.000-07:002014-05-27T07:07:28.184-07:00Bourbon Steak - 05/24/2014237 S Brand Blvd<BR>
Glendale, CA 91210<BR>
(818) 839-4130<BR>
<BR>
Once upon a time a steakhouse was the final word in fine dining for me. While those days are long gone, I still have a fondness for a great steak. A few years back there were a rash of high-end steakhouses opening in LA from Wolfgang Puck's CUT to the trendier BOA and STK steakhouses. Since then the LA dining scene has grown a bit more sophisticated with the rise of places like Trois Mec and Alma; still I was intrigued when I heard Michael Mina would be opening a new outpost of his Bourbon Steak in Glendale.
<BR><BR>
With an interior inspired by the golden age of aviation, Bourbon Steak seems to straddle the line between classic and contemporary. Indeed the atmosphere feels like a classic steakhouse/boys club though the food leans decidedly towards the modern which I favor over traditional steakhouse fare.
<BR><BR>
<B>DUCK FAT FRIES</B> - Pastrami Spice with BBQ Sauce | Parmesan with Caesar Aioli | Pickled with Pickled Ketchup<BR>
The meal at Bourbon Steak kicked off with a rather unique amuse: three uniquely flavored preparations of duck fat fries each paired with an appropriately flavored sauce. The fries themselves are superb, dense crispy exterior with a fluffy interior and plenty of inherent savor. The first flavor was a meaty pastrami spice coupled with a smoky vinegar-laced sauce. The Parmesan fries were the most conventionally delicious cheesy zest paired with the rich tangy Caesar. Last up was a dill-laced variety that went nicely with the bright tangy ketchup.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<I>TLAQUEPAQUE</I> - Barrel-Aged, Espolon Reposado Tequila, Crème de Pêche, Angostura Orange Bitters<BR>
<I>AVANTGRAND</I> - Barrel-Aged, Bank Note 5yr Scotch, Laphroaig, Amaro Averna, Crème de Banana<BR>
<I>VIEUX CARRÉ</I> - Rye, Cognac, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, Benedictine, Bitters, Lemon<BR>
I was surprised at the depth and breadth of Bourbon Steak's cocktail and spirits program. The restaurant offers both modern and classic cocktails with an emphasis on bourbon and whiskey. Beside the conventional drink options, diners can also choose for table-side Japanese Whiskey or Bourbon presentations. Our first round of cocktails ran the gamut of Bourbon Steak's offerings. The barrel-aged Tlaquepaque had an emphatic woody note from the reposado concentrated by the aging. The peach creme offered a cloyingly sweet counterpart that the fragrant orange bitters couldn't quite balance. Unlike the previous cocktail the Avantgrand's keen savory wood smoke and brine were enough to balance the heft of the banana making it the table favorite thanks to its alternating blend of smoke and sweetness. The final cocktail came from the classics, named for the French Quarter in New Orleans, the drink opens with soft sweet vermouth and finishes with a light tinge of medicinal sweetness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/Cocktail_01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>TRUFFLE BUTTER BUN</B><BR>
The restaurant only offered one type of bread but what a bread. Heady waves of truffled musk roll off the warm bread though I was expecting something soft and tender as opposed to the slightly dry toasty texture.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL</B> - Champagne Mignonette<BR>
Surprisingly the restaurant only offered one type of oyster, fortunately that one variety was Kusshi; one of my all-time favorites. These were a bit larger than the traditional Kusshi and though they had the typical creamy body, the cucumber and melon flavors that normally characterize the oyster were largely absent.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>KAMPACHI BELLY TARTARE</B> - Scallion, Yuzu Dressing<BR>
This was a special that typically comes with the restaurant's seafood tower, but the kitchen was kind enough to make us an a la carte portion. With each bite of the dense snappy bits of fish , the meat exudes oily fatty relish that contrasts beautifully with the tangy spice-tinged dressing and the fresh onion topping.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>DUCK SPRING ROLLS</B> - Ginger-Chile Dipping Sauce, Mint, Cilantro<BR>
I had my reservations about this next course, thinking the faux-Asian rolls might feel a bit tired. Indeed the generic savor of the rolls was fairly pedestrian, but the accompanying herbs added a particularly poignant contrast as did the astringent piquant tang of the dipping sauce.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<I>THE FRENCH GENTLEMAN</I> - Fizzy-Lifting, Landy Cognac, Yellow Chartreuse, Asian Pear, Domaine de Canton Ginger, Lemon Anise<BR>
<I>DARKER & STORMIER</I> - Fizzy-Lifting, Vizcaya Rum, Domaine de Canton Ginger, Grapefruit, Lime, Fernet Branca<BR>
<I>NUMBER 1 (LAVENDER MIST)</I> - Death's Door Gin, Tempus Fugit Kina L'avion D'or, Lavender-White Pepper Syrup, Lemon, Absinthe<BR>
Our second round of cocktails wasn't quite as impressive as the first. The French Gentleman was a touch medicinal thanks the Chartreuse but with a contrasting sweetness. The Darker & Stormier was an especially difficult drink with a flavor reminiscent of Eastern medicine particularly Huang Lian or Coptis extract. The Number 1 was a riff on the Corpse Reviver but with a more cerebral herbal component thanks to the lavender and Kina which is far more complex than the more ubiquitous Lillet.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/Cocktail_02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>HAMACHI & TUNA POPPERS</B> - Crispy Rice, Ponzu, Ginger Dressing<BR>
Like the duck rolls, I had my doubts about this course. Indeed the dish proved to be a touch simplistic though no less tasty for it. Both fishes come dressed with a Sriracha mayo and go nice with the tangy bite of the ponzu and ginger. The crispy rice added a nice savory flavor although by the time I got to it the mayo had saturated the rice turning the ostensibly crunchy texture a bit tacky and soft.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>JAPANESE WAGYU SHABU SHABU</B> - Dashi, Miso, Watermelon Radish<BR>
This was easily the most exciting of the appetizers and at $29 per ounce it was also far-and-away the most expensive. The delicate meat comes wrapped around a few strands of Enoki mushrooms which brings a core of springy supple structure to the paper-thin meat. The inherent richness of the Wagyu is balanced by the bitter radish and bright herbs. The meat is good enough to eat on its own, but after a few swishes of through the mushroom broth the meat develops a flavor of rendered fat and dark earthy savor along with a soft silky texture.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>OCTOPUS A LA PLANCHA</B> - Romesco, Fingerling, Lemon, Almonds<BR>
The plank grilled octopus was a thing of absolute beauty. The meat is dense tender and cloaked in a heady char. The meat has a persistent saline flavor but it was the nutty fragrance of the Romesco and bright tang of the lemon that dominate on the palate. Even the earthy funk of the fresh green olives were perfectly on point in the context of the dish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/08.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>ENGLISH PEA AGNOLOTTI</B> - Maine Lobster, Spring Onion, Meyer Lemon<BR>
The English Pea Agnolotti was an easy choice to start with. The pasta itself was a little over-tender but the sweet nutty pea puree is everything I was expecting it would be. Though there was a smattering of lobster scattered throughout the dish it is really the bisque-like sauce that stands out; a flood of buttery shellfish luxury against the vegetal character of the peas. The scattering of vegetables contrasts quite well with the pasta and sauce particularly the keen acidity of the pickled onion which easily cuts though the weighty heft of the duo.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/09.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<I>2007 Copain Syrah, Brosseau Vineyard, Central Coast, California</I><BR>
Instead of the more conventional Cabernet, we opted to pair a lighter Syrah from Copain with the steak. The wine has a good tension, but isn't quite as concentrated and rich as a cab. Instead there is a hint of smoke and brine mixed into a variety of red fruit and juicy berry notes
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/Wine.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>PRIME BLACK ANGUS</B> - N.Y. Strip 12oz<BR>
<B>AMERICAN WAGYU</B> - Center-Cut Flat Iron 10oz<BR>
<B>AUSTRALIAN WAGYU</B> - Kansas City Strip 16oz<BR>
<B>JAPANESE WAGYU</B> - Miyazaki A5 Striploin 16oz<BR>
For contemporary high-end steakhouses, it is almost mandatory that they offer not only a variety of cuts but also a mix of breeds ranging from the prosaic Angus to the sublime Japanese Wagyu. Whenever possible, my companions and I try to order the same cut to better compare the steaks, but unfortunately there was no American Wagyu Strip steak so we chose to do the Flat Iron since we thought it would be a closer comparison than the fattier rib-eye options. Though it probably comes as no surprise, the prime beef was the least interesting of the bunch, a touch stringy the steak tasted largely of bitter char without the buttery weight of the others. The American Wagyu had the most interesting grain and texture and showed more heft than the standard Angus but fell short of the international breeds. The Australian bone-in strip was probably the most enjoyable steak, with a touch of gamy complexity and pronounced but not overbearing fattiness. Ironically the Japanese Wagyu ended up being the largest of our steaks thanks to Eric who treated us and insisted on getting 4 ounces per person. We later learned that our 16 ounce steak was the largest single order beating the previous record by a healthy six ounces. The first bite of true Wagyu wasn't especially impressive but the weight of the steak became more apparent with each bite. The Miyazaki beef was the most impressive single bite but I would have struggled to finish anything more than the 4 ounce serving we each received and even that was a bit heavy towards the end.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/10.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>BLACK TRUFFLE MAC & CHEESE</B><BR>
The black truffle wasn't quite as pronounced as I would have liked but the al dente pasta and rich sauce still made for a very enjoyable side.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/11.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>DELTA ASPARAGUS WITH 7 TREASURES</B><BR>
Our second side showed a surprisingly heavy Asian-influence featuring slivers of asparagus stir fried with mushrooms and lap cheong. While the flavors were a nice change of pace from the conventional asparagus served at steakhouses, I wish the vegetable wasn't so finely chopped so we could better appreciate the texture.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/12.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>JALAPEÑO CREAMED CORN</B><BR>
The final side was a sweet cream corn laced with southwestern flair from the chilies.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/13.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<I>SAZERAC</I> - Rye or Cognac, Absinthe, Peychaud's Bitters, Angostura Bitters, Lemon<BR>
Our meal dispensed with I opted for a classic rye-based Sazerac as an after dinner digestif.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/Cocktail_03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>MASCARPONE CHEESECAKE</B> - Bing Cherry Sauce, Meyer Lemon Curd, Vanilla Bean Crust<BR>
Our first dessert was a deconstructed cross between a berry cheese cake and a lemon tart with contrasting jammy and tart fruit to compliment the creamy mascarpone and buttery crumbled crust.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/14.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>GLAZED BACON DONUT</B><BR>
Our server mentioned this as an alternative to their composed desserts. The donut certainly lives up to its name, dense and cake-y the sweet glaze and bacon compliment one another well though I have had better bacon donuts before.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/15.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>LEMON SCENTED OLIVE OIL CAKE</B> - Market Strawberries, Sicilian Pistachio, Soft Whipped Cream<BR>
As much as I dislike olives, olive oil desserts are a whole other story. The subtle floral aroma of the olive oil works wonders when added to straightforwardly sweet desserts like cake or ice cream. The fresh market berries are delightfully sweet and the combination reminded me of a luxurious strawberry shortcake.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/16.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>BUTTERSCOTCH TOFFEE PUDDING</B> - Salty Caramel Sauce, Warm Madelines, Confectioner's Sugar<BR>
Salty caramel is a must for me and though this delivered on that count the dessert felt a bit too basic even with the perfectly-made Madelines.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/17.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>MICHAEL MINA'S SIGNATURE ROOT BEER FLOAT</B> - Warm Chocolate & Pecan Cookies, Sassafras Ice Cream<BR>
The final dessert was a root beer float saturated with rich sassafras flavor and two soft warm cookies. The combination was simple but remarkably comforting.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/18.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>BOURBON CARAMEL</B> - Hazelnuts<BR>
The meal ended with foil wrapped bourbon caramels mixed with bits of hazelnut. The combination had a hint of booziness but mostly tasted like Almond Roca.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/19.jpg">
<BR><BR>
Though I haven't been to Mina's signature spots in SF, I have tried all his LA/OC spots as well as a few of his Vegas haunts and I have found them very hit or miss. Fortunately, I think we can put Bourbon Steak firmly in the hit column.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140524_bourbon_steak/Receipt.jpg">
<BR><BR>Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7912629715405541739.post-80844062445450439112014-05-19T17:49:00.002-07:002014-05-19T17:52:35.714-07:00Orsa & Winston - 05/16/2014122 W 4th Street<BR>
Los Angeles, CA 90013<BR>
(213) 687-0300<BR>
<BR>
With its distinctive blend of Japanese-influenced Italian fare, Chef Josef Centeno's Orsa and Winston was one of the most impressive new restaurants of 2013. Centeno established himself as a chef to watch based on the the success of his first two ventures, Baco Mercat and Bar Ama and has upped his game considerably with the tasting-menu focused Orsa and Winston.
<BR><BR>
While the restaurant does offer some a la carte options as well as a family style meal, most diners opt for either the 6-course or 8-course menu. The restaurant also features a 12-course "super omakase" that requires 72 hours advance notice and is only served at the four seat kitchen counter. My first visit we had an even more opulent meal, a 26-course extravaganza that was one of the best meals of 2013. This time around I opted for the 8-course menu, a chance to see how the "proles" experience Orsa and Winston.
<BR><BR>
<B>milk panna cotta</B> - asparagus, baby carrots, cumin caramel<BR>
The evening kicked off with an exceptionally nuanced salad of asparagus and carrots. The milk panna cotta is akin to a mild cheese with a sweet lactic richness that underscores the inherent flavor of the salad. A mixture of yuzu and caramel adds an alternating sweet-and-sour flourish to the fresh vegetal bitterness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140516_orsa_and_winston/01.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>kanpachi</B> - crème fraîche, cucumber, ginger gelée, mandarin<BR>
Our first proper course was a tartare of fresh Amberjack. A bit more conventional than the later courses, the tartare has the characteristic oiliness and supple body of the fish mixed with fresh spice from the togarashi and ginger gelée while the weightiness of the cream adds a voluminous body that gives the fish a bit more heft and substance. While I normally appreciate citrus in my dishes, the mandarin was a bit too sweet for the delicate character of the dish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140516_orsa_and_winston/02.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>haricot vert</B> - pattypan squash, house-made ricotta, purple brussels sprouts, cherry blossom, tempura<BR>
Done right, haricot vert is among my favorite vegetables and this was a spectacular example of why. The green beans have a urgent crispness and keen vegetal sweetness. The squash provided a tender meaty counterpoint while the leafy vegetables swing more toward the bitter. The tempura crumbles complete the dish with a buttery savor that provides weight to the mix of vegetables.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140516_orsa_and_winston/03.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>testa</B> - milk-bread foccacia, oregano butter, radish<BR>
Diners at the bar are sometimes rewarded with bonus courses and tonight's gift was the oven baked testa with house made milk-bread. Both the head cheese and bread stand on their own, but they are best when taken together. On its own, the testa has a powerful fattiness and keening salinity that demanded the mellowing touch of the foccacia and the astringency of the breakfast radish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140516_orsa_and_winston/04.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>cream of celtuce</B> - baby corn, abalone<BR>
This was probably the weakest course of the night. I was expecting a complex mix of shellfish saline and sweet corn but the dish was utterly dominated by the latter. Classic accompaniments of spice and citrus would have played beautifully with the soup's inherent sweetness.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140516_orsa_and_winston/05.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>chilled pea soup</B> - finger lime, crème fraîche, buttermilk, marigold<BR>
I thought the back-to-back soups was a bit odd, but the two were as different as could be. The thick chilled potage is brimming with fresh springtime verdance and delightful flashes of acid from the finger lime. Against the sublime base there is also a reverberating aromatic herbaceousness from the marigold flowers as well as pinpricks of spicy piquancy from the crushed mustard seed.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140516_orsa_and_winston/06.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>satsuki rice</B> - pecorino cream, geoduck, uni<BR>
Uni risotto seems to be all the rage these days and its easy to see why. The offal-y sweetness of the uni contrasts nicely with the creamy tang of the risotto rice. The slivers of geoduck add concentrated bursts of salinity that compliment the uni but with a darker earthy flavor.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140516_orsa_and_winston/07.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>pork belly</B> - onion, tomato, garbanzo, radish<BR>
Moving onto the final courses we started with a spectacular pork belly; crispy skin still wreathed with a fatty bouquet and tender lean meat dripping with porcine savor. The meat would have been overly heavy if not for the bright sour tang of the tomato and the fresh succulent relief of the radish.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140516_orsa_and_winston/08.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>manchester farms quail</B> - cream, potato, morel<BR>
The final savory was a luscious half quail drenched is a cream sauce infused with the luxurious earthy musk of morels and truffles. The fresh sprigs of parsley do wonders to temper the dish as does the unseen infusion of fresh citrus.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140516_orsa_and_winston/09.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>grapefruit granita</B> - candied kumquat, mint<BR>
The intermezzo did its job wonderfully, pairing bracing tart grapefruit with a bitter sweet kumquat and soothing fresh mint.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140516_orsa_and_winston/10.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>chilled berry crumble</B> - nougatine, coconut sorbet<BR>
This dessert was right up my alley pairing jammy berries with the buttery sweetness of nougatine. The classic combination is reminiscent of a breakfast yogurt enlivened with tropical flair thanks to the thoughtful inclusion of coconut.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140516_orsa_and_winston/11.jpg">
<BR><BR>
<B>black olive sablé</B><BR>
Our final treat was a small shortbread cookie the sweet crumbly treat comes tinged with a touch of earthy savor thanks to the flecks of black olive.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140516_orsa_and_winston/12.jpg">
<BR><BR>
Turns out the regular menu at Orsa & Winston is every bit as impressive as their more ambitious offerings. Centeno's food is complex and cerebral yet easily appreciated. Diners with smaller appetites should definitely consider the 6 or 8 course options. For my part, I can't see myself getting anything less than the "super omakase" on any subsequent visits.
<BR>
<img src="http://www.tangmeister.com/140516_orsa_and_winston/Receipt.jpg">
<BR><BR>Epicuryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18202402318969816036noreply@blogger.com5