Epicuryan

Drago - 01/30/2012

2012-01-31T00:22:00.000-08:00

2628 Wilshire Blvd
Santa Monica, CA 90403-4623
(310) 828-1585

Tonight we bid farewell to an LA landmark, after 21 years Drago is closing its doors. Along with Valentino, Drago helped define Italian food for a generation of Angelinos. Celestino Drago left his native Italy in 1979, after being hired on as chef at LA's Orlando Orsini. He would also work for a number of years at Spectrum Foods before opening the eponymous Drago in 1991. A dinosaur by the ephemeral standards of most restaurants, the venerable Drago finally fell victim to the tepid economy; with the lease coming due, it didn't make economic sense to renew. But don't feel too bad for Chef Celestino, he still has several other successful restaurants in his portfolio including Enoteca Drago, Il Pastaio, and Drago Centro as well as an artisial bakery, Dolce Forno.

arancini
The idea of a fried risotto ball is appealing but they rarely live up to my expectations. This was a happy exception, the crisp fried exterior yielded a plump zesty rice surrounding a core of heady melted cheese.

tramezzino di polenta - polenta sandwich, wild mushroom, fontina cheese, truffle fondue
Savory fried polenta? Check. Rich creamy cheese sauce? Check. Earthy truffle-kissed mushrooms? Check. The starchy heft of the polenta provided a break on the the aggressive flavors of the cheese and mushroom. Delicious if a bit heavy-handed.

carpaccio di capriolo - venison carpaccio madiera, grapes, parmesan, spicy greens
When I first started eating out carpaccio was one of my must orders but I've found recent preparations a bit boring. While this wasn't as good as the other appetizers, the paper thin meat was tender with a cold iron-y tang complimented by the sweet juicy grapes and bright leafy greens.

pancetta - pork belly, fennel, orange, frisee, apple cider vinegar
Easily the strongest of our opening volley, the pork belly is minimally dressed, making for a very pure porcine richness that reminded me of Chinese roast pork. Despite its concentrated flavor the pork felt relatively light on the palate and easily able to stand on its own though the frisee and citrus added charms all their own.

risotto nero - squid, scallops, shrimp, squid ink
While the ink soaked rice might seem a bit daunting, in truth the dish is quite benign. The squid ink has a thinner consistency than the typical cream sauce giving the rice a lighter consistency. The flavor is also fairly mild, with a subtle overarching essence of shellfish.

spaghetti con bottarga - spaghetti with pressed dried tuna roe, olive oil garlic sauce and breadcrumbs, spicy
This was easily the most adventurous of the pastas and probably the most ambitious dish of the night. The aroma was redolent of fish oil and though the flavor was apparent on the palate, in the form of a mackrel-esque oiliness, the bright tang and herbacousness of the sauce balanced the roe quite nicely.

tagliolini bianchi e neri con capesante - black and white tagliolini, bay scallops sauce
Despite being a touch monolithic this was my favorite of the first trio of pastas. The dense supple are augmented by a sauce infused with the sweetness of the scallops.

fettuccine al sugo di carne - ground veal, demi, tomato sauce, parmesan
This dish best exemplifies what Drago's appeal, taking a classic dish and elevating the purity of flavor through premium ingredients and faultless execution . Drago's take on the classic pasta with meat sauce was actually one of the stronger dishes of the evening. The dish manages to excite through its deliciousness while capturing the same warmth and comfort of a familiar favorite.

pappardelle al fagiano - roasted pheasant, morel mushrooms, parmesan
This might be my first experience with pheasant, but the bird doesn't stand out from the rest of the dish. Solid all around, the pasta exudes a heady aroma similar to pot pie while the thick pappardelle has a distinctive weightiness. Another cohesive well executed pasta.

petto di pollo - porcini prosciutto crust, potato pancake, king trumpet mushrooms, pearl onion, prosciutto parmesan cream sauce
Though I rarely order chicken, this dish just sounded too good to pass up. Familiar accompaniments of cheese and mushrooms are enhanced by the smoky richness of cured meats but the real star is the breast itself. Covered in a layer of crunchy bread crumbs the breast itself was exceedingly moist with minimal pressure needed to force the knife through the flesh.

agnello all'agrodolce tortino di patate e funghi alla griglia - pan roasted lamb loin, potato tart, grilled mushroom, sweet and sour
Bistronomics gave me a whole new appreciation for lamb chops and these fit the bill exactly. The meat was so tender I almost didn't need to chew and the flavor had the meaty char of a good steak mixed with the characteristic game of the lamb.

mele caramellate - cinnamon pastry cream, apple, caramel, brown sugar gelato
Drago's play on the classic apple tart had a deconstructed feel to it. The raw and cooked apples provide a nice side-by-side comparison with the raw variety perhaps a touch more tart. The pastry itself was flaky and buttery the perfect crust to sop up the sugary goodness of the gelato and the apples.

semifreddo al limone - sponge cake, mascarpone gelato, grapes
The semi freddo and frozen sponge cake made for an intriguing pair. The resonant flavor of the fresh lemon pervaded the entire dish while dry rough mouthfeel of the cake was quite at odds with the creamy semifreddo.

panna cotta di zucca - red kuri squash, candied seeds, cardamom cream
Though I don't care for squash in my savories, their weighty sweetness worked well with the exotic musk of the cardamom.

The meal at Drago handily exceeded my expectations. The menu does show its age, but with that age comes a level of precision and refinement that keeps the food from feeling tired. Talking with Drago at the end of the meal, while he is in no hurry to reopen, he would be willing to do so if the right opportunity presented itself.

The Source - 12/10/2011

2012-01-28T00:03:00.000-08:00

I remember leaving WP24 feeling very conflicted. While I appreciated the attention to detail the kitchen brought to Chinese food, the marginal improvement in overall quality didn't warrant the high price premium over more traditional restaurants. The one thing WP24 did excel at was their dim sum, inventive and delicious, the small bites captured the best of what fusion cooking can achieve.

With that in mind when I saw Puck's East Coast version of WP24, The Source, ranked #3 in the city by Washingtonian, I felt compelled to try it. While the restaurant's dinner menu bears a striking similarity to WP24's the dim sum was almost entirely different so I felt opted for the Dim Sum Brunch rather than a complete dinner tasting.

Located in the Newseum, the restaurant features two levels; a bar and lounge comprise the ground floor while the second floor houses the dining room proper. The Source's kitchen is headed by Scott Drewno, a veteran of Puck's Chinois as well as Vong and Ruby Foo in New York. Despite his Polish background, much of Chef Drewno's professional has been in Asian Fusion, making him well-suited to his current position as The Source's Executive Chef.

Pork Meatball Banh Mi - Country Pâté, Pickled Jalapeño
The meal started off quite strong. The smoky smack of the pork meatball is augmented by the rich mouth feel of the pate and creamy mayo. The pickled vegetables provide some much needed levity and contrast though I would have liked them to be even more prominent.

Crystal Chive Dumpling - Chinese Mustard, King Crab
The Crystal Chive Dumplings were one of my favorites from WP24 and one of the strongest of this octet as well. I quite enjoyed the dense toothsome texture of the skin in conjunction with the slickness of the stuffing while the sauce adds a spicy piquant cast to the shellfish-tinged sapor of the dumplings.

Kobe Beef Hash - Poached Egg, Yukon Gold Potatoes
It is rare that I complain about a dish featuring poached egg, but the hash was probably the biggest letdown of the entire meal. Though the egg was enjoyable, the hash was mealy and bland. Any distinctiveness the Kobe beef might have brought to the table was smothered by the oppressive weight of the curry sauce.

Sea Scallop Sui Mai - Curried Lobster Emulsion
Scallops and lobster made this sound special, but reality fell a bit short. Though the filling was tasty, neither the texture nor flavor were reminiscent of sea scallops. Moreover the wrapper felt a bit dry as if the dish had sat for a while after being prepared.

Pork Belly Pot Sticker - Black Vinegar, Chili Oil
I've never had success with pork belly potstickers. Instead of the unctuous decadent character of pork belly the filling tastes decidedly normal. Though the dumplings were well made, I can get very good dumplings for much less than the $5+ The Source charges for 3.

Chow Feung - Rock Shrimp, Sweet Soy
I'm a sucker for chow fun and though the noodles felt more like knife-shaved noodles than true chow fun I quite enjoyed their heady wok fired char and delectably potent spice. All things considered the dish would have been much better without the three severely overcooked shrimp.

Duck Bao Buns - Lacquered Duckling, Cucumber
This was arguably the most traditional item on the menu, though Peking duck really feels more suited to dinner than dim sum. The skin itself was crisp and flavorful while the bun had a nice freshly steamed texture. My only complaint was the slice of duck breast, which felt a bit dry.

Wok Fired Shrimp Dumplings - XO Sauce
The last course consisted of three fried shrimp dumplings in what was allegedly "XO sauce" Instead of the expected umami and spice, the sauce tasted darkly sweet, more like black bean paste than XO.

On the whole, I found the dim sum to be a bit clumsier and less refined than WP24's, but much of what I said about WP24 holds true for The Source as well. Though I didn't always enjoy the courses, I appreciated the creativity that went into them. The quality and experience are definitely a cut above the typical Chinese restaurant, but the price more than reflects it. At times I feel the meal emphasized style over substance, but putting aside my Monterey Park bias, I was able to enjoy the meal for what it was.

Charlie Palmer Steak - 12/09/2011

2012-01-23T17:05:00.000-08:00

101 Constitution Avenue Northwest
Washington, DC 20001
(202) 547-8100

There was a time when a visit to Morton's or Ruth's Chris was the pinnacle of gustatory delight for me. Though I still enjoy a good steak, on the whole I find steakhouse fare overly simplistic. The one exception to this has been Wolfgang Puck's CUT which actually offered inventive appetizers along with top quality meat instead of the typical shrimp cocktail, and Caesar salad. Having been burned by Palmer in the past the one thing that brought me to Charlie Palmer Steak was its connection, however tenuous to Brian Voltaggio. Voltaggio honed his skills at Palmer's flagship Aureole, and opened Charlie Palmer Steak as its head chef and eventual partner. Though he moved on a number of years back, I was hoping his creativity would live on in the menu.

QUOROM CALL - EAGLE RARE BOURBON, MUDDLED MINT, A SPLASH OF SPARKLING WATER PURE "ROUGH CUT" RAW CANE SUGAR
It has been awhile since I've had a drink this bad. The "rough cut" sugar just sank to the bottom making it unbearably sweet. The rest of the drink tasted watered down, with a medicinal petrol-y undertone, I'd expect something of this quality at a house party not a steakhouse.

Amuse - White Wheat Soup
Though by no means stellar, the presence of contrast and the savory/sweet balance of the soup made it one of the better dishes.

WHITE ASPARAGUS SOUP - PANCETTA AND LEMON
I ordered the soup hoping for something lighter with to compliment the heavier dishes ahead, but this had none of the finesse I was expecting. Instead of a vegetal sweetness, the broth is think and laden with a savory cheesy weight and the intensely salty pancetta only exacerbated things.

ROASTED WILD CAROLINA SHRIMP - CHORIZO, ARUGULA, FENNEL, BANYULS VINEGAR
Adjusting my expectations, I could have forgiven another overly heavy flawed appetizer but for the poor quality of the ingredients. My first shrimp tasted none too fresh and the mealy texture of the second was gorge raising. When charging $4.50 per shrimp the least you could do is make sure they are edible.

RIB-EYE "BONE-IN COWBOY CUT" - USDA ANGUS BEEF AGED 21 DAYS
HEN OF THE WOODS MUSHROOMS
YUKON GOLD POTATO PUREE
For my steak I settled on the rib eye rather than the dry aged New York Strip. The meat was about what I expected, moderately tender with sufficient fattiness and a nice char but with a bit more gristle than I expected. The sides were equally pedestrian; neither the potatoes nor the mushrooms were particularly special but there were no overt flaws either. While there was nothing wrong with my main course, I was hoping for a bit more creativity from the kitchen.

CHOCOLATE HAZELNUT PYRAMID - PRALINE ANGLAISE, WARM CHOCOLATE GANACHE, CRISP FILO TUILES
The meal ended with a fairly typical massively heavy steakhouse dessert with the buttery filo crisps injecting some contrast to the myriad forms of chocolate on the plate.

My two previous experiences with Charlie Palmer restaurants so far have both been abject disappointments and Charlie Palmer Steak continues the string of failures. Blunt, tired, and severely institutional; but for the name on the door I could have gotten this meal at any steakhouse.

LudoBites 8.0 @ Lemon Moon - 01/18/2012

2012-01-19T00:19:00.000-08:00

12200 West Olympic Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90064-1038
(310) 442-9191

What better way to ring in the new year than with a new LudoBites. This time around Ludo has pulled out all the stops with a luxurious seafood heavy menu. As always demand for tables is fierce and though the new lottery system was relatively painless, seats were no easier to procure. For those math geeks out there, Krissy got just under 10,000 requests and with ~500 tables, chances of actually winning a table were still pretty poor. Fortunately the restaurant also has 6 walk-in spots available at the bar. Naturally having missed out on the lottery, I made a point to show up at 4:00 to ensure my spot when the restaurant opened at 6:00. Waiting proved unnecessary as the bar didn't actually fill up until after 7:00.

NV Cambremer Cidre, Domaine du Manoir de Montreuil, Pays d'Auge, France
We kicked things off with a French apple cider. Think adult Martinelli's the light alcohol and sweetness make for an easy drinking libation while the musty funk gives the drink some maturity.

Chicken Tandoori Cracklings
I was expecting a bowl of fried chicken skin chips but the cracklings are only one element of this dish and not even the most important. The sapid crispy skin is topped with a quinelle of chicken liver mousse adding a bitter iron-y twang to the concentrated essence fried chicken from the skin.

Crab Meat, Shrimp, Avocado Guacamole, Pomelos
Though Ludo doesn't specifically call it out, the crab meat, is actually the vaunted "Hairy" crab from Japan. The flavor of the meat is more concentrated and nuanced than the norm, with both sweetness and brine in abundance. The accompaniments included a creamy banana-tinged guacamole as well as a bitter pomelo paste for contrast. The shrimp consommec provided a brothy lushness that added a powerful savory sensation to the dish.

Scallop, Leek, Potato, Black Truffle
Our waiter dubbed this Ludo's take on vichyssoise. Simply put this was the best tasting dish of the night. The salty sapor of the fried potato and the gentle creaminess of the leek captured the essence of vichyssoise beautifully. The scallop and truffle were pure luxurious indulgence and though I couldn't really taste the truffle, the scallop was absolutely perfect.

Uni Creme Brulee
Another one of the night's best dishes this combines the eggy oceanic sainity of the uni augmented by a generous spoonful of the ikura. The sugary crunch of the crust was key here, providing bot textural and flavor contrast to the seafood.

2010 Savary Vielles Vignes Chablis, Chardonnay, Burgundy, France
Hailing from the same region on France as Ludo, this wine exudes distinct hints of green apple backed by a lush acidity that lingers on the palate.

Raw Beef, Radish, Beets, Eel
Ludo's previous raw beef dishes were the star of their respective meals so I came to this one with high hopes and Ludo didn't let me down. The beef itself is more of a textural element than anything else. The smoked eel actually provides most of the flavor while the tangy horseradish mayo adds a pleasing creamy consistency. I was a bit apprehensive about the beets, and the inky purple smear was indeed potent, though its lingering vegetal finish was a nice change from the jammy attack.

Foie Gras, Tamarin, Turnip, Daikon
This was arguably my favorite dish of the night. The foie "soup" was an unexpected plus with the chunks of fatty liver absorbing the rich heady broth. The turnip and daikon provide a contrasting bitterness while the broth combines a light savory tang from the tamarin with a floral depth from the basil.

Seared Black Seabass, Fennel, Lettuce, Bernaise Vinaigrette
Though labeled as a seared, the meat is so tender that it could be mistaken for a sous vided fish. The fish comes topped with a zesty piquant sauce that was heightened by the tang of the Bearnaise Vinaigrette. The lightly bitter essence of the romaine and subdued licorice essence of the fennel were key in balancing the aggressiveness of the fish.

Monkfish Liver, Cucumber, Cornichon, Mustard Seed
A favorite of mine at sushi restaurants, this is my first time having Ankimo warm. The liver lacked the expected creaminess, and instead presented with a lean eggy funk. While I enjoyed the vegetable accompaniments, I found the bitterness of the mustard seed a touch overwhelming given the unexpected austerity of the liver.

Jidori Chicken, Parmesan Soubise, Broccoli, Wasabi, Egg
Hearty, soulful, and satisfying this is the quintessence of roast chicken. The breast was utterly moist, easily one of the best that I've ever eaten especially with the overarching savor of the Parmesan.

Duck, Orange, Olive, Carrots
The final savory was a play on the classic Duck à l'Orange. Though the breast stands on its own, the orange does add pleasing succulent freshness. The crunch and subdued flavor of the carrots were quite enjoyable, but the olive paste was almost shudder-inducing in its potency.

From the Tank Red, Grenache/Syrah/Carignan, Rhone, France
Just what you'd expect from a house wine, open and easy drinking with lush fruits tinged with earth and pepper.

Goat Cheese Profiteroles, Pistachio, Crispy Leaves
Our waiter dubbed this course a mix of savory and sweet but for my part all I got was the former. The pastry itself was spot on, but filled with the gamy tang of goat cheese and paired with a plethora of vegetal accompaniments, I was hard pressed to see the dessert part of this dish.

Chocolate Napoleon, Orange Creamsicles
One of Ludo's gifts is his ability to re-imagine classic pairings, in this case orange and chocolate. The orange creamsicle is a thing of beauty: fresh, lively, and expressive, an absolutely vital counter to the unabashedly bitter chocolate.

Lemon Meringue Tart
As always Ludo's deconstructed tarts are a joy. The acidity and concentrated citrus of the lemon adds excitement and energy to the buttery crust crumbs. The cream makes a welcome addition, taking some of the edge off the lemon.

The dishes at Ludobites 8.0 speak for themselves so I'll just close with this: Best. LudoBites. EVER!

Hama Sushi - 12/30/2011

2012-01-15T11:30:00.000-08:00

347 E 2nd Street
Los Angeles, CA 90012
(213) 680-3454

I definitely have something of a Westside bias when it comes to sushi in LA, with restaurants like Mori, Urasawa, and Zo dominating my favorites. One of my friends mentioned that Hama was her favorite, though the little downtown eatery often gets overshadowed by the likes of Sushi Gen or its neighbor Komasa. Hama's interior feels like something of an anachronism, the cramped spaces and tired wood decor give the restaurant a quaint feel to it. In essence the entire restaurant is built around the three itamae who run the 20 seat bar. Oddly enough the restaurant does not offer omakase which makes ordering something of a challenge when the place gets busy.

Cucumber & Seaweed
The meal opened with an appetizer of cucumber tsukemono, the light tang and crisp vegetal crunch of the cucumber effectively piqued our appetites for the meal to come.

Binnaga Hara & Sake - Albacore Belly & Salmon
The Albacore belly was one of the few less common items available. The belly is quite enjoyable, tender and fleshy but not overly saturated with oil. I haven't had much salmon of late so it was nice to get reacquainted with the supple almost fatty mouth feel of the fish.

Tai - Snapper
This was easily the best piece of the meal, the fish carries a wonderfully nuanced and resistant texture while the interplay of citrus, sea salt, and wasabi were perfect with the mild flavor of the fish.

Engawa - Halibut Fin
Another rare cut, Engawa refers to the adductor muscle of the fin, which has a sinewy toothsomeness that separates it from the more tender texture of the rest of the fish. The Engawa has the characteristic mildness common to many whitefishes and I detected a pleasing tingle of spice with the more traditional soy, scallion, and radish.

Saba - Mackerel
The Saba definitely ratchets the flavor up several notches from the preceding fishes. The unabashed oiliness was among the most potent that I can remember ever having.

Binnaga - Albacore
I prefer completely raw Albacore but this was definitely one of the better seared preparations thanks to the slightly charred tang.

Hirame - Halibut
The halibut was surprisingly complex, with a slight bitterness to compliment the tart zing of the ponzu.

Uni - Sea Urchin
A very solid uni attempt, the flavor doesn't resonate with the sweetness of the best uni, but quite enjoyable nonetheless.

Hamachi - Yellowtail
A classic example of Hamachi, the fish has a light fattiness augmented by typical accompaniments of soy and wasabi.

Ika - Squid
A leaner example of squid, the texture never yielded the expected creaminess. The squid was accompanied by a sliver of shiso leaf that added a delicate fragrance to the cephalopod.

Unagi - Fresh Water Eel
Another old favorite from my halcyon days, the charred eel has a fatty gelatinous texture matched with a syrupy sweet sauce.

Cramped seating, sometimes spotty service, and quality fish, Hama doesn't break any new ground but it does deliver an enjoyable meal at a reasonable price.

Eola - 11/12/2011

2012-01-10T19:03:00.000-08:00

2020 P Street Northwest
Washington, DC 20036
(202) 466-4441

Traveling to DC frequently for work, I've been to most of the city's well known fine dining restaurants so this time around I had to dig a bit deeper to fill my dining plans. Normally I would have passed right on by Eola but one thing caught my eye: the offal menu. I mean how could I pass on a meal composed entirely of the parts of pig people normally throw away. A relative newcomer to the DC culinary scene, Eola was opened in 2009 by Daniel Singhofen who studied at the CIA in New York and worked at The Ritz and K Restaurant, both in Florida before moving to DC to open his own restaurant.

Sazerac - old overhold rye, cognac, bitters
Eola's GM, Jean Paul, runs the restaurant's cocktail program and has put together a short list of beautifully crafted classic cocktails. This wonderfully balanced Sazerac might be the best that I've ever had; the woody bite of the rye is tinged with a resonant tinge of candied citrus.

The Chef’s Welcome - a selection of small plates
The welcome consisted of five small treats. First up was a classically supple Kumamoto balanced with orange and creme fraiche. Next up was a delicate confit pigs heart paired with parsnip and brandied cherries giving a sweet and bitter contrast to the tender porcine heart. Next was my favorite, an unabashedly salty cured lamb loin dressed with a zesty pesto. The fourth canape was a gentrified pimento cheese sandwich. The final treat was a celeriac consomme, the medicinal essence serving as an effective palate cleanser.

01: Crispy Torchon of Pig's Ear & Tail - fried egg, savory oats & roasted garlic puree
First up was a mixture of gluey bits of ear and tail covered in a bit of batter to give the torchon some crunch while the egg adding a much needed slickness to help separate the offal-y bits. Surprisingly the torchon has almost no flavor, but the oats make up for that in a big way. On their own the oats are painfully salty, and though they balanced well with the ear & tail, the flavor did feel uneven at times.

02: Chicken Fried Tongue - braised le puy lentils, pickled shallots & a spiced apple puree
This was easily the best of the three savory courses. The tender meaty consistency of the tongue enrobed by a thick layer of batter while the flavor was reminiscent of a fatty corned beef. I particularly enjoyed the tongue with the piquant crunch of the shallots and though the lentils were necessary I found their starchy heft a bit blunt.

03: Confit of Pork Jowl - sea island red peas, kale, chanterelles
The fattier the better, that's the way I used to think, but perhaps my palate has become tempered with age. The fried jowl was similar to pork belly but even heavier and the richness of the semi-liquid fat is made even more severe by an overwhelming salinity. The vegetables and chanterelles provide some relief but nowhere near enough to fully counter the jowl's intensity.

04: Ricotta-Date Tart - cinnamon, honey, salted caramel ice cream
With the ingredients all working harmoniously, the dessert was probably the best composed dish of the night. The ever so subtle savor of the ricotta is balanced by the sticky decadence of the honey and date. The salted caramel ice cream fits well with the rest of the dish, straddling the line between salty and sweet and serving as a creamy counterpoint to the buttery crust of the tart.

Fall Manhattan - Eagle rare 10yr bourbon, antica formula vermouth, grapefruit bitters, lemon peel
I don't normally end the meal with a cocktail, but given how much I enjoyed the Sazerac, I asked Jean Paul to make me his favorite. The Manhattan had a pleasing woodiness with underlying currents of vermuth and bitters finished with a citrus tang on the rim.

Mignardises
The generous plate of mignardises consisted of cookies, brownies, biscotti, and two absolutely delicious salted maple meringues. Though I enjoyed the heavier desserts, I thought the airy salty-sweetness of the meringue was the perfect way to close out the evening.

I haven't been this conflicted about a restaurant in some time. The classic cocktails are hands down the best I've had in DC and I appreciated the chef's audacity to compose a menu of all offal. At the same time, the jowl and oats were painfully salty, conveying none of the finesse shown during the Chef's Welcome. Though I enjoyed the food I don't know that I'd have been so forgiving with the same flaws in a more conventional menu.

Post & Beam - 01/06/2012

2012-01-07T19:35:00.000-08:00

What better way to start off the new year than with a new restaurant. I found myself working up in El Segundo this week and after a stressful week of 12 hour days I was looking forward to a satisfying meal to start my weekend and Chef Govind Armstrong's new restaurant Post & Beam seemed to fit the bill nicely.

Armstrong has been part of the LA culinary scene since the tender age of 13 where he worked with Wolfgang Puck at his flagship Spago. Throughout Armstrong's career, he has worked with numerous famed LA chefs including: Mark Peel, Nancy Silverton, Mary Sue Milliken, Susan Feniger, and Joachim Splichal. Despite his relative youth, Armstrong has opened a number of restaurants starting with Chadwick in 2000 then Table 8 and 8 oz Burger Bar.

Sticky Little Ribs with Roasted Potato, Braised Fennel Salad
Given the name, I was expecting the ribs to come with a layer of sauce. Despite being fairly dry, the meat was tender and flavorful with a smoky sweet porcine sapor. The salad was absolutely delicious, the fresh herbs and starchy heft of the potatoes making for a neatly composed dish.

Grilled Octopus with Garbanzo, Preserved Lemon and Cracked Olive
This was easily one of the best courses of the night. The octopus was cooked nicely rendering it deliciously soft and meaty and adding a lovely char to accompany the octopus' natural salinity. The mix of lemon olive contributed a nuanced herbaceousness while the chickpea added an enjoyable crunchy contrast.

Oven Roasted Penne with Short Rib Bolognese, Arugula and Shaved Parmesan
The bolognese was a thing of beauty, the heady meaty essence of the short rib is accentuated by the bright tang of tomato and a piquant sharpness from the Parmesan. Though I found the pasta a touch underdone, the sauce was so delicious that it overshadowed the minute flaw.

01 Crusted Tomato, Local Mozzarella, Snipped Basil, Unfiltered Olive Oil
Post & Beam's take on a Margherita pizza hews closely to the original recipe. If anything Armstrong's version is more approachable than true Neopolitan pizza. The crust has a satisfying crunch and less bitterness which lets the sweet essence of the sauce come through cleanly.

02 House Made Sausage, Fire Roasted Peppers, Grilled Onion, Cheese Blend
The four cheese blend was a bit pungent for my tastes, but I enjoyed the spicy savory kick of the sausage coupled with a the sweet contrast of the peppers and onions.

Certified Angus Beef Sirloin Steak, Beef Butter - Oven Roasted Cauliflower, Braised Chickpeas, Salsa Verde | Roasted New Potatoes
The simply prepared steak shows of the prototypical toothsome firmness of the sirloin cut and the minimal dressing celebrates the meat's inherent savor. The sides were enjoyable though I would have liked a bit more flavor from the salsa verde, perhaps an acidity to balance the weight of the meat

09 Charred Broccolini, Roasted Olives, Balsamic Onion, Sweet Garlic
The couple who shared our communal table noticed us taking pictures of the food and graciously decided to share their pizza with us. The charred bitterneses of the broccolini works nicely with the lighter flavors of the garlic, onion and tomato sauce, though the olives were a bit heavy for my tastes.

Cast Iron Natural Chicken, Olive Oil Poached Garlic and Sage - Long Cooked Greens, Smoked Ham Hock | Charred Broccolini with Chili and Garlic
Though I don't normally order chicken at restaurants, something about this caught my eye. As expected, the flavors of olive oil, garlic, and sage pair naturally with the salty crunch of the skin and lighter flavor of the bird proper. Unfortunately the breast was overcooked and unpleasantly dry. To their credit the restaurant comped this dish immediately when we mentioned the issue. The broccolini was arguably my favorite bite of the night, its crunch and clean vegetal notes are heightened by the aroma of garlic and a subtle tinge of spice.

Buttermilk Biscuit with Blackberry Compote and Crème Fraîche
For our first dessert we opted for a biscuit stuffed with cream and blackberries. The biscuit was spot on, light and flaky with a delicate savory-sweet butteriness. The fruit and cream providing a gentle sweetness as well as a crucial succulence.

Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Lemon Zest and Candied Citrus
Another very light dessert. The panna cotta had a piquant yogurt-like tang while the citrus contributed an understated fruity sweetness.

Straightforward, satisfying, and unpretentious the food at Post & Beam isn't going to win any awards for originality but that isn't the point. Chef Armstrong has built a solid menu around his market-driven take on classic American comfort food. There were a few small issues mainly with cook times that I suspect will work themselves out as the kitchen gets more experience and service was particularly on point with a friendly staff perfectly suited to the homey vibe of the restaurant. With its warm staff and satisfying fare, I could easily see Post & Beam becoming a neighborhood favorite.

10 Best Dishes of 2011

2011-12-30T10:46:00.000-08:00

With the end of the year rapidly approaching I thought I'd run down the 10 best things I ate this year. I have presented them chronologically as it was too difficult to rank them 1 to 10 given the wide disparity between the various dishes.

Frasca | "Spiedino" - Berkshire Acorn Pork, Treviso, Lemon and Arugula Pesto
2008 Iuli Umberta, Barbera del Monferrato, Piedmonte, Italy
I consider myself extremely lucky, visiting Frasca right as Chef Mackinnon-Patterson is preparing for a local competition called Cochon 555. Dubbed a "touring porcine bacchanalia-slash-competition" consists of 5 chefs, 5 pigs, 5 winemakers. As a result, the kitchen at Frasca has benefited from a plethora of heirloom pork to work with, in this case an acorn-fed Berkshire variety. Spiedino translates to skewer or kebab and indeed the pig is sublime, firm and nuanced texture with just a slight fatty tenderness. The slight oily sweetness is offset by a lovely vegetal tang reminiscent of a salsa verde. The salad added some texture and moisture but the pork effortlessly stands on its own.

TAG | Pork Belly
The core of this dish is a pork belly confit that turned out tender and surprisingly well balanced especially in conjunction with the swoosh of celery root puree. The sauce was a concoction called "umami butter," an utterly decadent combination of aged cheddar, burre blanc, soy, sake, and shiitake mushroom. The topping was a miniature new style sashimi preparation with Tiger Shrimp, ginger and chili that still managed to stand out against the heavy. It is this masterful balance between the disparate flavors that made this entry by CdC Jensen Cummings the best dish of the night.

N\Naka | Kani Koramushi - Egg, Shitake, Black Truffle
This course is marvelous plain and simple. Kevin compares it to the hairy crab at Urasawa which he labels the best thing he ever ate there. The shredded crab comes in a shitake broth, its umami-tinged earthiness a welcome foil to the crustacean's natural sweetness. The yolk adds a deluge of viscous runny goodness that gives the dish a silky satisfying weight on the palate. The black truffle shavings add a final punctuation of luxury and complexity to the dish.

Bistronomics 2.0 | lamb / kumquat / carrot confit - grilled lamb chops marinated with cumin and sumac ,kumquat yogurt , carrot confit with ginger and saffron
There is something satisfying on a primal level about eating meat with your hands, feeling the rush of of iron-tinged meat jus that gushes forth as you tear the rare flesh from the bones. Without question the lamb chops stand on their own; exquisitely seasoned with an immensely delicious marinade of cumin and sumac. Next time forget the fancy decorations on the plate and give me another piece!

The Restaurant at Rancho Valencia | pacific northwest morels, hazelnuts & pine
This was probably the most intriguing course of the night; the various elements work in perfect concert to create an edible "forest floor." the sappy sweet aroma of pine is immediately evident in the soil and taken with the morels enhances the profound earthy smokiness of the mushrooms. The trio of greens: stinging nettles, wood sorrel, and yarrow add an herbal vivacity to the dusky weight of the fungi and soil.

Ibaraki Japan Benefit Dinner @ Breadbar | Michael Cimarusti: Soymilk Panna Cotta - Santa Barbara Sea Urchin, Geoduck Clam & Fresh Wasabi
Ephiphany 2009 Riesling Santa Barbara County, California
Visually this course was nothing less than a work of art and if anything it tasted even better than it looked. Hidden under the foliage were generous pieces of sweet creamy roe. The flavor of the uni simply resonates through the panna cotta leaving a lingering essence of the sea on the palate. Hands down this was the best course of the evening and it might rank as one of the best things I've eaten all year!

Atelier Crenn | "Olives" - Fennel, Lemon, Almond
2006 Von Hovel, Riesling Auslese, Mosel
From the conception, presentation, and execution this was easily one of the most impressive desserts I've ever encountered. The story behind the dessert is a olive fresh off the tree. Instead of a true olive the focus of the dish is an EVOO ice cream reconstituted on an olive branch. Accompanying the "olive" are a lemon ice, fennel jam, and almond nougatine. Don't as me how it works out so well, but combination is absolutely spectacular. Easily the best dessert I've eaten all year.

Saison | cru
Mahoney, Albarino, Carneros, 2007
I don't know what how the chef came up with the name but the dish itself consists of the most seductive flavorful tuna tartare that I've ever had. The bright red flesh was torn by a scallop shell then mixed with a roasted blend of fish fat and sinew giving the mixture an extravagant oily char reminiscent of grilled toro. If that weren't enough the dish was paired with gelee made from marrow extracted by boiling fish bones and white soy sauce that gave the dish a lighter more savory brine. A rice cracklin topped with shrimp floss and river vegetables provides a brazenly salty textural variance. The third component was a shot of spinal jelly that we were told to eat midway through the course. With a flavor like a muted saltwater, the jelly helped reset the palate between bites of the tuna. This was so good we asked for seconds.

The French Laundry | MARCHO FARM NATURE-FED VEAL - "Lasagne de Langue de Veau," Toybox Tomatoes, Globe Artichoke, Romaine Lettuce and Castelmango "Mousseline"
Tenuta Friggiali, Brunello di Montalcino, "Donna Olga," Tuscany, 2004
The veal's sheer profundity and depth of flavor coupled with its exquisite texture was nothing short of magnificent. The lasagna of veal tongue provided complex nuances of a robust and slightly piquant salinity while the verdant succulence of the lettuce and sharp zing of the tomatoes added a contrasting levity to the meat. I used to wonder what all the hubbub about veal was; leave it to Keller and his crew to open my eyes.

2011 White Truffle Dinner @ LQ@SK | Rabbit Tartare - with Truffle, Celery Root Truffle Remoulade, Argan Oil Vinaigrette
This was my first time having raw rabbit and hopefully not the last. The texture and flavor reminded me of a hamachi enlivened by a peppery kick and the heavenly aroma of white truffle. The celery root added a sense of complexity and contrast to what was already an immensely delicate and satisfying course, making this my favorite of the night. As an aside, the dish proved so beloved that Laurent brought it back at a subsequent LQ@SK dinner, something he never does.

Oshima - 12/23/2011

2011-12-26T00:47:00.000-08:00

1956 N Tustin St
Orange, CA 92865
(714) 998-0098

When a discussion about the best sushi in the OC comes up, I invariably mention Oshima as one of the candidates so it's hard to believe I've never written about the place before.

The restaurant is the prototypical strip mall sushi joint, very little exterior decor except for the name. The interior is equally cookie cutter with Japanese wood paneling, a handful of dark wood tables and a 10-seat bar that is omakase only. Naturally I didn't come to Oshima for the decor, but for the food particularly those items on the "From Japan" board.

Radish & Seaweed
The meal started with a small dish of boiled radish and seaweed. The root vegetable sweetness is quite intense but the seaweed does provide some savory contrast.

Tai - Sea Breem
I've noticed that tai is a common opener to omakase dinners and Oshima use classic citrus and sea salt accompaniments to add flavor to the firm but mild flesh.

Maguro - Bluefin Tuna
This was a solid example of bluefin, the fish displays a uniformly smooth texture utterly free of sinew and gristle. I have come to appreciate the simplicity of tuna though I don't know if I'll ever prefer it to its richer cousin toro.

Hotate - Japanese Scallop
Its been a while since I've had scallop nigiri so I especially appreciated its tender jellied consistency and the lingering essence of shellfish though I wouldn't have minded some salt or yuzu kocho for emphasis.

Sakuramasu - Cherry Salmon
I tend to think of salmon as an "American" fish, but Cherry Salmon is a variety that lives in the rivers of Korea and Japan before returning to the Pacific to spawn. Adults have a beautifully vivid pattern of black and red stripes along their bodies. The flesh has a deeper uniform orange tone in contrast to the more common orange and beige bands of common salmon nigiri and is perhaps a touch firmer. The flavor is substantially different as well as I detected an overwhelming essence of spring onion coming from the fish, quite nice!

Suzuki - Sea Bass
The sea bass was one of my favorite pieces of the night, the tender fatty texture feels wonderful on the palate and the mild flavor of the fish is augmented by the spicy-sour punch of yuzu kocho.

Kanpachi - Amberjack
Once a favorite, Kanpachi has since been superseded by more obscure fish like Shima Aji, still a good piece of Amberjack can be quite enjoyable. This was a prototypical example of Amberjack, taut yet slightly gellied with a hint of satisfying fish oils.

Isaki - Chicken Grunt
The Grunt family of fish is named for the sound it can produce by grinding its teeth and the Chicken Grunt species is found along costal waters from Japan to Northern Australia. The fish looks a lot like kurodai or black snapper, but has a denser slightly snappy consistency. The flavor is perhaps a touch more apparent than tai or hirame, but still relies mostly on the ponzu as well as the scallion and radish.

Yuzu Omoi
A blend of yuzu juice and sake, this is like a more delicious version of a kamikaze thanks to the expressive citrus notes that accompany it.

Tairagai - Pen Shell Clam
I think I've only had raw Pen Shell Clam once before at Maki Zushi, though they referred to it as Halfmoon Scallop. The flesh has a slightly yellower hue than the more common scallop as well as a firmer denser texture and more aggressive salinity and I would have liked a sprinkling of salt and citrus to help balance the flavor.

Black Cod
I've enjoyed my share of black cod with miso but there is something to be said for this simpler preparation. No seasoning or sauce, just a bitter char which plays very well with the fish's inherent fattiness.

Aji - Spanish Mackerel
Aji is another of those fishes that I use as a yardstick for sushi restaurants. Oshima's was firmer than most with barely any oiliness to speak of and what the ponzu and scallion masked what little flavor there was. The fish was enjoyable, just not what I'd typically associate with Aji.

Hiramasa - Golden Stripe
I've never heard the name Golden Stripe before, all I knew was that Hiramasa was an Australian cousin to yellowtail. I had the fish a number of times spring of this year and found it to be a bit fattier than regular Kanpachi. This time around I wasn't able to detect much difference from the Amberjack above.

Binnaga - Albacore Belly
The albacore belly comes doused in a "secret sauce" and topped with a fried garlic chip. Though the seared belly exudes a buttery smokiness the flavor is lost on the palate, drowned by the garlic and sauce.

Uni - Sea Urchin
Oshima forgoes the traditional seaweed wrapper around their uni, noting that uni should stand on its own and having the unbridled sweet brine of the uni I was inclined to agree. Our chef boasted "Uni Number 1!" and though I have had better, Oshima's is certainly up there.

Shigoku Oyster
This is my first experience with this species of oyster. A Pacific oyster from Willapa Bay, Shigoku ("Ultimate" in Japanese) are a sustainably farmed variety developed by Taylor Shellfish in 2009. The oysters are compact, dense, and simply delicious. For me, these oysters redefine sweetness when it comes to shellfish. Though a single oyster is not enough to make a fair comparison, in time I think Shigokus may dethrone Kumamotos as my favorite oysters.

Marinated Uni
After trying the fresh uni I was curious about their marinated uni. Compared to the regular version, the marinated variety lacks the explosive sweetness and has a lingering bitter brackishness. The one saving grace was the fresh wasabi which gave the urchin an added bite.

Shirako - Fish Milt
After raving about the Shigoku, our chef asked us if we wanted to try his "favorite" and we naturally said yes. It turned out to be shirako which I noticed had a lightly salty boiled egg essence to it. Though I've had shirako before, this was the first time that I'd seen it with this wrinkly brain shape, before it always looked like a formless ovoid.

Kamasu - Barracuda
Prior to this I've only had Barracuda at Mori Sushi and both times it was blowtorched. Without the extra dimension the fish was a bit bland, though the texture was unique: muscular and sinewy on on end then soft on the other.

Wa-shu Gyu - Beef
Having read lots of good things about the beef, we opted to try it in sushi form rather than as a hot appetizer. Basically a delicious sliver of steak, the meat has a nice beefy sapor, but again the sauce and garlic chip feel a bit heavy handed.

Neptune
I don't even know what this but I want more. The snap was reminiscent of a razor clam, crunchy and cartilagenous while the flavor has a deeper bitterness than the earlier scallop.

Katsuo - Bonito
Bonito is a type of tuna, the flesh is pinker with a bit more fat and flavor. The result is a slightly smoky essence and a meaty texture that that dissolves on the tongue.

Tsubugai - Whelk
Like the more common Conch, Whelk is a form of sea snail. The texture is very much like an overcooked steamed clam with a correspondingly earthy bitterness.

Itoyori - Thread Fin
This is another new fish for me. A quick Google search, lists this as a Snapper variety. The texture is softer and more uniform than traditional tai but the same mild flavor is there. In fact the citrus and salt explode on the palate with this fish.

Horagai - Loco Clam
Referred to as Loco Clam, Horagai is actually a large conch. The clam looks meaty and pliant, but the texture was surprisingly dense and compact, reminding me of sangaki.

Kinmedai - Golden Eye Snapper
This was my first experience having seared Golden Eye Snapper. Again I enjoy the bitterness and I think cooking helps separate the flakes of the fish as well making the whole thing quite tender, a nice contrast to the crunch of the charred rice.

Iwashi - Sardine
Through 20+ pieces of sushi, we'd had surprisingly few examples of oily fishes so we decided to order some sardine to shake things up. The silver skinned fish exudes a pungent oily musk tempered by a bit of citrus.

Toro - Fatty Tuna
At this point we saw Shige open a new pack of toro so we had to try it. Shige handles the toro himself, removing all the gristle and leaving behind a quivering piece of fish butter.

Taki Kani Tekmaki - Blue Crab Hand Roll
After 27 pieces we were still hungry so we opted for a pair of hand rolls hoping the rice would help fill us up. Instead the roll is mostly creamy sweet crab, fairly typical but tasty.

Kohada - Gizzard Shad
Like the sardine, Kohada is an oily silver skinned fish. The tiny silver sliver has a texture that feels almost dry while the flavor is unabashedly fishy, definitely an acquired taste.

Shima Aji - Jack Mackerel
Shima Aji has become a must try fish for me after I first had it at Urasawa. Surprisingly the fish has remained consistently delicious, perhaps some self-selection bias at play with only good sushi bars stocking the fish. This ended up being my favorite of the night thanks to its nuanced oily flavor and sensuously slick fleshy mouthfeel.

Negitoro Maki - Toro and Scallon Roll
We originally planned to call it a night but the couple next to us opted to end with a Negitoro roll and knowing a good idea when we heard it, we chose to follow suit. The scallion provides a nice contrast and freshness to balance the weight of the toro, though I wouldn't have minded a bit of radish a la Nana-san or Urasawa

Tamago - Egg
The traditional closer to the meal, dense eggy sweet with a hint of seaweed.

At the end of the night, the chefs posed for a picture. From left to right we have: our chef Yuji, Miki, and the owner Shige.

As I said before this is my third time here and the restaurant never fails to impress. If anything Oshima has taken some positive steps to be a more authentic sushi experience such as eschewing the medley of rolls popular with the American crowd. The restaurant still maintains a fairly substantial cooked menu and some items are reported to be quite good, but the star is definitely the nigiri. Bottom line: Oshima is as good of a pure sushi experience as you are likely to find in OC.

Hank's Oyster Bar - 12/06/2011

2011-12-22T20:50:00.000-08:00

1026 King St
Alexandria, VA 22314
(703) 739-4265

In keeping with my goal of trying some of DC's neighborhood favorites I decided to check out Hank's Oyster Bar located a short walk from my hotel in Old Town Alexandria. Chef Jaime Leeds opened the original Hank's Oyster Bar downtown in 2005 to great critical acclaim. Prior to starting Hank's, Leeds spent most of her 20+ year career in New York. Based on the restaurant's success, Leeds tapped partner Sandy Lewis to helm the restaurant's second branch in Alexandria. Prior to teaming up with Leeds, Lewis worked for Jose Andres' ThinkFoodGroup and helped with the reopening of Oyamel in 2007. The restaurant itself is quite small and both the brick exterior and sparse interior with the exposed ductwork are in keeping with the "urban beach food" theme.

Oysters on Half ShellChef Creek, BC; Stellar Bay, BC; Dabob Bay, WA; Barcats, VA; Chincoteague, VA; Alpine, PEI (Clockwise from right)
I couldn't well come to a restaurant called Hank's Oyster Bar without trying the The order above was suggested by my server, generally moving from mildest to boldest. The Chef's Creeks were the relatively mild with a sweet creaminess and supple texture. The other BC oyster, the Stellar Bay is a larger cousin of one of my favorites, the Kushi, the result is a bit of saline sweetness coupled with a satisfying meatiness. The Dabobs were the only West Coast oysters and they were surprisingly aggressive with a concentrated salinity. The Barcats are cultivated by a co-op in Chesapeake Bay and were probably my favorite of the bunch, plump, meaty and the sweetest of the bunch. Chincoteagues are known for their salnity and these lived up to that reputation with a lingering essence of fresh seawater. The Alpines were bar none the fishiest of the bunch with a flavor that reminded me of the seafood department at an Asian market.

Seafood Ceviche /w Lime & Jalepeño
After a beautiful plate of oysters, the ceviche was a let down. Nothing was overtly wrong, but there wasn't much to appreciate either. After having exquisitely crafted ceviche from places like Picca, it was hard to get excited about mediocre shellfish seasoned with a pedestrian marinade.

Fried Oysters
The meal picked back up with with these fried oysters, with the inherent brininess of the oysters deftly tempered by the sapor of the exterior. The batter was fried to crisp golden perfection while the oysters had a consistency like runny egg.

Lobster Roll w/ Old Bay Fries
The final savory was a New England classic, the lobster roll consists of lobster meat tossed in mayo on a hot dog bun or similar roll. Hank's variation is fairly faithful to the original, the sweet chunks of lobster are coated in a light dressing of mayo with bits of celery for contrast and the entire mix is tossed atop a toasted buttered roll resulting in a sweet succulent filling around a heady lightly crisp bun. The roll comes with an addictive pile of crisp fries elevated with the spicy dusting of Old Bay seasoning.

Creme Caramel
The meal finished with a very enjoyable creme caramel, smooth, sweet, and eggy.

Hank's Oyster Bar delivered just what I expected from a no frills New England seafood joint; stick to the classics and you'll be fine.

Picca - 12/14/2011

2011-12-19T00:15:00.000-08:00

9575 West Pico Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90035
(310) 277-0133

I know its odd that I'm writing about Picca so soon after my last visit, but I was invited to dinner by Steve Plotnicki, author of the blog Opinionated about Dining and subsequent book Opinionated About U.S. Restaurants. The New York based Plotnicki wanted to reach out to more West Coast bloggers for the 2012 edition of his book and I was flattered to be one of the people selected to contribute. As a show of his appreciation Steve took a handful of us to Picca while he was in town.

albacore ceviche - rocoto-infused ponzu leche de tigre, japanese cucumber
This was one of the special ceviches for the night. The smoky tang of the rocoto-infused ponzu was an apt companion for the lightly seared albacore while the cucumber adds a touch of freshness on the finish.

chicharron de costillas - crispy pork ribs crostini, sweet potato puree, feta cheese sauce, salsa criolla
This is probably my single favorite course at Picca, and one I've had on all four of my visits to the restaurant. The tender pork has just enough fat to make the dish rich, while the criolla adds a zest and succulence for balance.

causa snow crab - cucumber, avocado, huancaina sauce
causa spicy yellowtail - spicy mayo, green onions, wasabi tobiko
Next up was a pair of causa sushi, Ricardo's variation on nigiri uses aji amarillo marinated potato in place of rice. First up was a snow crab, while I normally find the mayo tinged crab a bit blunt, the acidity and spice of the yuzu kocho added a marked liveliness. Though, I would eschew the stuff at a Japanese restaurant, the spicy yellowtail works well with the bed of potatoes.

choritos - steamed mussels, pancetta, aji amarillo butter
Though I've never cared for the typical mussels steamed in white wine, I have been enjoying the deeper smokier flavor of mussels paired with some sort of cured meat where the smoky richness of the meat offsets the funkiness of the shellfish.

conchas a la parmesana - scallops, parmesan cheese, spinach, lemon dressing sauce
Whats not to love about a fresh scallop filled with spinach and melted cheese. The cheese reminds me of a Ritz cracker and provides an enveloping savory weight to the other elements on the plate.

anticucho tomatoes - burrata, black mint pesto
A cooked twist on a caprese, the blistered tomatoes and melted burrata have a much softer and juicier consistency than with a raw preparation while the smoky char adds a nuanced bitterness into the mix.

anticucho black cod - miso anticucho, crispy sweet potato
Yet another play on a Japanese staple, this time black cod with miso. The fish maintains the oily succulence and tender flesh its known for with the sweetness of the miso nicely balanced by the woody essence of the binchotan charcoal.

grilled eggplant
This was an off-menu special and though I don't normally care for eggplant I found this to be quite enjoyable. A dusting of salt provides enough savoriness to counter the eggplant's inherent sweetness while the charred exterior adds a nice textural element to the mushy softness I normally associate with eggplant.

anticucho corazon - beef heart, rocoto walnut sauce
I wasn't blown away by the heart my first time here, but this is the single best beef heart that I've ever eaten. The meat is tender yet muscular and pliant, actually it made me think of a chicken "oyster". Last time around there was a distinct iron tinge to the meat but that was much less noticeable this time around replaced with a heavy dose of beefy richness. Personally I could have done without the walnut sauce, the texture of chopped nuts was a distraction from the luxurious mouthfeel of the corazon itself.

arroz con erizo - peruvian paella, mixed seafood , sea urchin sauce
A delicious seafood-heavy take on paella. The seafood is well cooked, but the star of the dish is the rice with its deep woody flavor augmented with a liberal application of uni sauce. Citrus and microgreens provide lighter touches to counter the heft of the rice.

grilled 32oz rib-eye - aji amarillo
I typically prefer my steak prepared simply: salt, pepper, and maybe butter is all it takes. Picca takes things a step further, adding an extra layer of flavor with the tangy spice from the rub, but leaving the inherent flavor of the meat intact. As good as the steak is, the first time at Picca I'd recommend forgoing the rib-eye in favor of multiple smaller dishes unless you are in a large party.

seco de pato - duck leg confit, black beer sauce, cilantro rice
Our final savory was a duck leg smothered in a brightly herbaceous cauce with a slightly bitter beer sauce. The confit is expectedly tender and rich and I loved the interplay between it and the cilantro infused rice.

alfajores - dark chocolate, dulce de leche
It seems Picca found itself a new pastry chef in the three weeks since my last visit and the result is a completely revamped dessert menu. The most successful of the new desserts were the alfajores. Originally an Arabic confection that made its way to Spain and through there numerous Latin American countries, the dessert has undergone substantial change in the process. Here the crumbly biscuit-like cookies are sandwiched around a thick filling; simple, effective, and delicious. The girls in our party particularly enjoyed the aljajores, proceeding to ask for two extra orders. The men in the group then proceeded to enjoy the show as the women fed each other. Note to self, learn this recipe.

vanilla bean pisco flan
The nuance of the pisco is lost on me but this is still a superb flan thanks to its beautifully smooth and creamy consistency.

bonbon churros
This was probably the most complex of the desserts. The perfect crusty/spongy churro spheres are filled with a tangy passion fruit cream while the three dipping sauces add a more forceful sweetness to the mix.

quinoa pudding
This was the only real miss of the night for me. The caramelized top immediately drew comparisons to creme brulee, but I found the gritty quinoa pudding a bit disconcerting on the tongue.

As always the food at Picca is superb and it was especially fun sharing a meal with other bloggers and people equally passionate about food. Thanks again for the invite Steve, let me know when you are in town and I'll be looking forward to the 2012 edition of Opinionated about Dining.

Pri-vē @ Tiato - 12/15/2011

2011-12-16T15:59:00.000-08:00

2700 Colorado Ave
Santa Monica, CA 90404
(310) 866-5228

When I first heard about a molecular gastronomy menu in Orange County I thought it was either a mistake or a disaster waiting to happen. Then when I found out the meal was at the trendy noodle bar AnQi, a mall restaurant no less, I nearly fell out of my chair laughing. To my immense surprise, the dinner turned out to be the best meal that I've had to date in Orange County and I've been a fan of the chef, Ryan Carson, ever since. With his talent, I knew it was only a matter of time before he struck out on his own, so when I learned about Pri-vē, I knew I had to be there.

Carson has worked in the kitchen since the age of 15. He got his start at the Disneyland Resort working under Bill Orton where his hard work and talent netted him a Sous position at the age of 19. Staying within the Disneyland Resort umbrella, Carson then worked with Andrew Sutton as part of the pre-opening team at Napa Rose, another of Orange County's best restaurants. Carson then moved up to wine country, working as a Sous for Robert Mondavi's Golden Vine Winery. He remained there until graduating from the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco. From there he worked at a number of top restaurants: Gary Danko, Aqua, and Jardinere before returning to Napa Rose. Ryan then enjoyed a four year run as executive chef at Ambrosia before joining up with the An family, of Crustacean fame, and heading kitchen at AnQi.

Like most pop-ups, Pri-vē takes over a restaurant that doesn't have a regular dinner service. In this case Ryan and his partner Matt Ranney have opted to occupy Tiato, the An Family's market garden cafe. In addition to being a kind show of support for Carson, the An family again shows their business acumen, using these three dinners as a way to show of Tiato as a potential venue for other pop-ups.

welcome dish, compliments of master chef, helene an, "mama" - cherry tomato, crab and cucumber soup
The starter was a variation on a crab stuffed tomato. The tart cherry tomato is stuffed with a creamy sweet shredded crab filling. This is then contrasted with a refreshing herbaceousness from the cucumber soup.

champagne & caviar
This was one of the most enjoyable single bites at the previous dinner so I was glad to see it return for an encore. For the most part the dish remains the same, but at the last minute Carson and Ranney opted to forgo the fizzy, and go for a cleaner presentation instead. Without the chocolate, the champagne gel tasted markedly sweeter, but the caviar dominated on the finish, giving the bite a lingering fishiness. More importantly the fizzy recreates the effervescent mouth feel of champagne and without it the dish felt much flatter and less complex.

octopus mosaic - squid ink noodle, tomato dashi, eggplant, white asparagus, chorizo
'09 domaines merlin cherrier, sancere
This was one of those dishes where I kept waiting for the other shoe to drop. Individually the components on the plate are quite good; I particularly enjoyed the smoky essence and biting chill of the eggplant ice cream as well as the succulent snap of the white asparagus. Taken together, I kept expecting more definition from the various flavors instead of the overarching piquant sapor from the tomato dashi.

iberico ham - tuscan melons, manchego, soy-balsamic gel, sour olive oil, black sesame
'10 domaines ott, bandol
With this dish Carson riffs the classic ham & melon combination. The sweetness of the fruit matches up beautifully with the decadently oily ham while the liquid manchego adds a complimentary sharpness to the ham. For me the best part of the dish was the sour olive oil which tasted a lot like SweeTarts candy. This was one of the most successful dishes of the night, maintaining the integrity of the original while adding a delicious touch of whimsy.

all things oyster - chicken, plant, mushroom, mignonette, coconut pearl, sea vapor
'10 belleruche, cotes-du-rhone
Here we have the single most effective use of flavored vapor that I've ever seen. Rather than a floral note like lavender or vanilla Carson uses a brine that summons images of standing on the beach enjoying the salt in the air. The dish itself is a visual play on an oyster in the half shell with a priced chicken "oyster" standing in for the real thing. The firm flavorful chicken was augmented with a hint of truffle as well as a starchy weight from the plant. Quite delicious, but having just had a brilliant mock oyster I was hoping for a similar flavor profile here.

head to tail - radishes, wax beans, sea bean, brown butter, sweet & sour tangerine
'10 kings estate, pinot noir, oregon
Featuring a pressed pig's head terrine and a braised then fried pig's tail, there was no way this dish could be bad. Though I loved the heady fried flavor of the tail, I preferred the terrine with its unadulterated porcine richness. Texturally the two couldn't be more different, the tail came coated in a crunchy batter reminiscent of Carl's Jr onion rings while the head was a combination of gellied bits and tender meat. The pork was surprisingly restrained, but I still enjoyed the vegetal contrast and crunch of the beans and radishes.

steak & potatoes - celeriac creamed spinach, black garlic, bone marrow custard, truffled ‘tater tots’
'09 bodega colone, malbec, mendoza, argentina
This proved to be my favorite course of the night because of how well everything went together. The star was a beautifully tender sous vided filet that would have been at home in any upscale steakhouse. What sets this apart from most preparations is despite the fact that the sides are fairly traditional (potato and spinach) they actually make the dish stronger. The bone marrow custard was nicely restrained, accentuating the steak's flavor without feeling overwhelmingly heavy while the tots had a gnocchi like heft and pleasing whiff of truffle. The creamed spinach and mushroom were equally important, adding a bitter earthy counterpoint to the meat.

chocolate - banana milk shake, ‘chewy’ peanut butter ice cream, pretzel powder, celery
alcyone, urugyuan tannat
Dessert centered around a flexible chocolate ganache coupled with a "chewy" peanut butter than had been infused with flour. Even on their own, the chocolate and peanut butter aren't overly sweet or heavy, but the savoriness of the pretzel and verdant temper of the celery further balanced the duo. In fact the sweetest item on the plate was the milkshake gel with its concentrated essence of ripe banana.

It was good to get reacquainted with Chef Carson's food after nearly a year. As always flavor remains sacrosanct but compared to the 16 course menu at AnQi, Pri-vē falls a bit short in terms of scope and ambition. Carson is still cooking at a high level and though some of the concepts here felt a bit less polished, I am confident Ryan, Matt, and Erick will figure it out in time.

2 Amy's - 12/05/2011

2011-12-12T15:31:00.002-08:00

Having been to DC a number of times for work I've been to many of the city's top fine dining restaurants. This time around I made a point to look for some neighborhood favorites and 2 Amy's came up as one of the city's best for authentic Neopolitan style pizza. Opened by Peter Pastan of Obelisk, the restaurant has been around for over a decade and redefined pizza in the District. The Cleveland Park restaurant is named for the wives of Peter Pastan and his partner Tim Giametti and has the warm low-key feel.

Potato and Prosciutto Croquettes
Presentation aside this was one of the best things of the night. The exterior is crispy with a slight char yet the interior is moist starchy and rich. A mix of cheese, potato, and smoky bits of prosciutto.

Lardo, Prosciutto di Parma, Boar Cacciotorini
Traditional Cacciotorini is a half beef half pork salami, but this variety is made entirely from boar meat. Aside from the crisp dry texture I quite enjoyed this preparation. The proscutto di Parma was the safe choice, tender slick and salty I could eat this all day. As much as I love fat, the thin white layer of fat was too gamy and unctuous even for me. I could feel my gorge rise as the flavor of stale oil hit my palate and it was all I could do to swallow the thing.

Suckling Pig Head Salad
I was expecting something heavy and rich, a "salad" if you will. Instead the salad is intensely piquant and crisp. The pigs head is more of a textural element, gummy and slick.

Smoked Swordfish with Olive and Fennel
Cooked swordfish tends to have a texture more akin to a pork chop or steak than fish so it was no surprise the smoked swordfish was equally substantial. The heavy meaty texture is well suited to the concentrated woody character of the swordfish. The olive oil and fennel add a bit of herbaceousnenss.

Marinara - Tomato, Garlic, Oregano
My friend opted for the cheese-less pizza, The bitter char of the crust is deftly countered by the sweetness of the tomato sauce. The garlic and oregano add a zesty spice. A very straightforward but nuanced pizza that celebrates the classic combination of ingredients.

Margherita - Tomato, Mozzarella di Bufala, Basil
I opted for the classic Margherita pizza. Like the marinara, the tomato sauce provides a sweet base. I preferred this pizza thanks to the savory tang of the cheese and the floral aroma of the basil. The duo elevate this pizza above its simplistic predecessor.

Caramel Semifreddo
A number of reviews raved about 2 Amy's ice creams so I opted for a scoop of the caramel for dessert. This reminded me of a lighter version of Mozza's butterscotch budino, same great salty sweet taste, but less filling.

I have to say I was a little disappointed with 2 Amy's. For the most part the appetizers didn't work for me though that is more personal preference than any overt fault with the restaurant. The pizza is very good, but there were was one key flaw: limp undercooked dough at the center of the pizza. I know this might seem like a nitpick, but given the restaurant's reputation I feel such scrutiny is warranted.

Birch and Barley 12/03/2011

2011-12-10T14:02:00.000-08:00

1337 14th Street Northwest
Washington, DC 20005

(202) 567-2576

With 500 bottles and 50 taps Birch & Barley and its upstairs pub Churchkey have the most extensive beer selections that I've ever seen. Open for two years, Birch & Barley has wracked up an impressive number of local accolades but I probably would have missed out were it not for a friend's recommendation. After checking out the menu I was intrigued enough to give the restaurant a shot. To pair with that the restaurant offers a seasonal new American menu with an emphasis on using local ingredients whenever possible.

The kitchen is headed by Chef Kyle Bailey who attended the CIA in Hyde Park and worked at Cru, Blue Hill at Stone Barn, and Allen & Delancey before coming to Birch and Barley. Cru's emphasis on wine and the cocktail pairing Bailey instituted at Allen & Delancey gave Bailey a deeper insight into the finer points of food and beverage pairings, making him uniquely suited to helming the kitchen at Birch and Barley. Handling pastry duties is Tiffay MacIsaac who also worked at Cru and Allen & Delancey as well as a number of other restaurants in New York. MacIssac is the Executive Pastry Chef for Neighborhood Restaurant Group and oversees the dessert program at many of their properties which include 9 restaurants, a bakery, a wine shop and a catering service. Rounding out the trio of key figures at Birch and Barley is their Beer Director, Greg Engert. Besides launching and managing Birch & Barley and Churchkey, Engert is also responsible for the beer programs at NRG's other restaurants. Renowned for his knowledge and palate, Engert won Somellier of the Year from Food & Wine in 2010, the first time a beer expert has won the award.

Amuse: Arancini
The meal opened with a single Arancini, the fried rice ball is dusted with shaving of Parmesan and served on a bed of sweet puree resulting in light savoriness coupled with a hint of sweetness.

01: Arctic Char Tartare - Yuzu Gelée, Candied Ginger, Soy-Mirin, Sesame Crisp
ALLAGASH WHITE | Allagash Brewing Company | Witbier | Maine | 5.2 % | 42º | Tumbler | 13 Oz.
I was expecting this to be similar to a salmon tartare but the Arctic Char has a markedly firmer texture and more nuanced flavor. The citrus, ginger, and soy compliment the fish naturally while the crisp adds a savory textural weight. The Allagash is a classic witbeir with loads of citrus and coriander to compliment the yuzu and ginger.

Supplement: Crispy Farm Egg - Roasted Pork Belly, Apple-Cornichon Gastrique, Frisée, Mache
AYINGER BRÄU WEISSE | Privatbrauerei Franz Inselkammer | Helles Hefeweizen | Germany | 5.1 % | 42º | Grand Pilsener | 16 Oz.
In addition to the tasting menu there were a number of very intriguing a la carte selections and the kitchen was kind enough to incorporate them in the tasting menu. First up was a lightly fried farm egg, the thin crust hides a nice molten core complimented by the rich pork belly. The dish is further elevated by a bitter-sweet accent from the gastrique and greens. The Ayinger is the embodiment of a pils, effervescent with light aromas of toasty malt and citrus.

02: Pan-Seared Red Snapper - Baby Gold Beets, Endive, Golden Raisins
RHINOEL | Lost Rhino Brewing Company | Dubbel | Virginia | 5.5 % | 48º | Goblet | 12 Oz.
I've often found cooked snapper to be overly dry but that wasn't the case here. The fish is flaky and moist with a light salinity that plays well with the endive, but lacks the strength to stand up to the sweetness of the beets and raisins. The accompanying beer is a winter seasonal dubbel, which has typical notes of ripe fruit and brown sugar that complimented the sweeter elements of the dish but was a bit heavy for the fish.

Supplement: Seared Sweetbreads - Parsnips, Red Pickled Apples, Marjoram, Foraged Chickweed
ELLIE'S BROWN ALE | Avery Brewing Company | English Brown Ale | Colorado | 5.5 % | 48º | Nonic Pint | 16 Oz.
Just an immaculate nugget of sweetbread tender meaty with just a light hint of the characteristic offal. The parsnips add a pleasing starchy weight while the apples give the dish a touch of piquancy to counter the weightiness of the offal. The pairing was a brown ale that came loaded with toasty malts and a powerful nuttiness as well as a earthy bitterness to cleanse the palate.

Supplement: Hand-Cut Tagliatelle - Razor Clams, Mussels, Fennel Confit, Grapefruit Beads, Saffron
MISTINGUETT - Brasserie Sainte Hélène | Belgian Blond Ale | Belgium | 6.5 % | 48º | Tulip | 10 Oz.
Like cocktails with cucumber, I feel compelled to order razor clams whenever I see them on the menu. Unfortunately they were a bit lost beneath the mussels, fennel, and citrus. Despite that this was a very well developed dish with lithe supple pasta and a lovely harmony between the brine of the shellfish and the aromatic herbs and citrus. We go back to a lighter style of beer here, the Mistinguett is a Belgian Blonde that opens with a sweet malt tinged with fruity spice but finishes with a light essence of hop.

Handmade Potato Gnocchi - Braised Oxtail, Horseradish Creme Fraiche, Celery
PAULUS | EXCLUSIVE | Brouwerij Leroy | Flanders Oud Bruin | Belgium | 6.0 % | 48º | Tumbler | 10 Oz.
Though the Gnocchi was a bit soft for my liking, the flavor of the dish can't be faulted. The heady rich gravy and braised oxtail is tempered by the spicy zing of the horseradish. The Paulus is a complex sour ale combining tart fruits with a distinctly vinous character which complimented the darkly savory oxtail as well as the tangy horseradish.

Grilled Wagyu Skirt Steak - Handmade Couscous & Farm Carrots
NATAS | DC Brau & Stillwater Artisanal | Belgian Imperial Porter | District of Columbia | 7.5 % | 54º | Goblet | 12 Oz.
The final savory was a grilled Waygu Skirt Steak from Strube farms in Texas. The beef itself wasn't as tender as I was expecting though Skirt Steak does tend to be one of the tougher cuts though I did appreciate the fine grain of the meat. The couscous provided a nice starchy heft but I thought the purple carrots were disconcertingly sweet. The Natas is a darkly bitter stout produced by two local brewers, the aromas of char and smoke compliment the rich beefy weight of the meat very well.

Goat’s Milk Cheesecake - Salted Olive Oil Ice Cream, Port-Poached Seckel Pears, Pistachios
TIDINGS ALE (Brewed w/ Virginia Wheat, Maryland Wildflower Honey & Spices) - Port City Brewing Company | Belgian Strong Blond Ale | Virginia | 7.8 % | 48º | Tulip | 13 Oz.
MEPH ADDICT 12-14-2010 (Avery Mephistopheles Brewed w/ Coffee) - Avery Brewing Company | Imperial Stout | Colorado | 15.5 % | 54º | Snifter | 10 Oz.
I don't normally care for cheesecake but the goat's milk added an interesting savory funk that I quite enjoyed, but for me the star of the show was the olive oil ice cream. The Tidings Ale, seasonal Winter ale, includes hints of citrus and spice with a slightly viscous sweetness that is well-suited to the temperate sweetness of the dessert. The Meph Addict wasn't part of the meal but I felt I'd be remiss without mentioning it. The beer was a limited release last year so it is likely impossible to find by now. A super heavy stout, the beer is like an chocolate/coffee malt that served as a liquid dessert to end the meal.

In my experience restaurants that emphasize their beer, cocktails, and wine invariably suffer when it comes to food. Happily that wasn't the case here, while there were some things that didn't work for me, on the whole the food was quite enjoyable. As expected the beers are just as impressive and Greg's insight and care has given me a new found appreciation for the versatility when pairing beer with food. If you love good beer do yourself a favor and visit Birch and Barley and if you don't enjoy beer you just might after a visit here.

I don't think I've ever gone to the same restaurant for consecutive meals, but my friend who recommended Birch and Barley also mentioned their brunch was worth trying. Looking at the menu a number of items jumped out at me but I decided to go with the restaurant's famous fried chicken.

Fried Chicken & Waffles - Belgian Waffle, Buttered Pecans, Maple-Chicken Jus
Food and Wine rated Birch and Barley's fried chicken one of the best in the nation and I can see why. The chicken itself is juicy and flavorful and though the batter was a touch heavy I enjoyed the forceful crunch; I wish they sold this stuff by the bucket. The Belgian waffle is equally enjoyable, while the chicken jus helps keep the sweetness of the maple syrup in check.

Freshly Fried Donuts - Toffee-Bacon, Lemon-Poppy Glazed, Bittersweet Chocolate
I was expecting donut holes rather than two full on donuts. The cakey consistency of the donuts was a bit heavy for me but the flavors were absolutely delicious. The toffee-bacon offers a pointed savoriness that reminded me slightly of Chinese you tiao. The lemon poppy glazed was my favorite with a resonant lemon flavor and subtle undercurrent of poppy. The final donut was simple by comparison, with a bitter chocolate aroma lingers on the palate.

Forget all the stereotypes of brunch being a way to get rid of the leftovers from earlier in the week. Birch and Barley serves up delicious renditions of classic brunch fare. If you don't mind drinking in the morning, I suggest trying the boozy brunch which includes an entree, donut holes, and two cocktails for $30; just don't expect to get much done the rest of the day.

Table 21 @ Volt - 12/04/2011

2011-12-06T11:56:00.000-08:00

228 N Market St
Frederick, MD 21701
(301) 696-8658

After placing first and second on Top Chef, the Voltaggio brothers have become veritable household names. I've been fortunate enough to enjoy Michael's cooking at a number of restaurants and consider him one of LA's most dynamic chefs. I've been equally curious about his older brother Bryan whose restaurant, Volt, is situated about an hour north of DC. Volt is known for its contemporary take on American cuisine and Table 21 elevates that food with even more modernist touches.

With only 8 seats available (up from 4 initially) the wait list for Table 21 is over a year long and the restaurant is already completely booked for 2012. I finally made it out there for a business trip and I immediately booked a seat in the main dining room. Through a confluence of miraculous events, I was able to secure a seat at Table 21. When I called to confirm my reservation the hostess informed me that someone had cancelled their reservation for Table 21 earlier that morning and I grabbed the spot without any hesitation.

Growing up in the Frederick area, Voltaggio found his passion for food early. After graduating from the CIA in New York he spent 10 years working within the Charlie Palmer restaurant group. Beginning in 1998, Bryan started at Palmer's flagship Aureole in New York working his way up to sous chef. In 2003 he returned to the DC area to serve as executive chef at the newly opened Charlie Palmer Steak. He remained there for four more years, becoming a partner in 2006, before the lure of owning his own restaurant finally lead him to strike out on his own and open Volt in July 2008. It seems Bryan has developed a taste for opening resturants, his lunch concept, Lunchbox, opened earlier today and he has a number of ambitious plans in the coming year including two new restaurants, North Market Kitchen in Frederick and and Range in Chevy Chase.

The restaurant is located in the Houck Mansion, an elegant 19th century brownstone that belies the contemporary cuisine created inside. The restaurant is split into various rooms with a private dining room, contemporary bar, and main dining room and 8 seat bar (Table 21) that overlook a gleaming display kitchen.

01: chips and dip - potato, barbeque, chive
The meal kicked off with a light snack of chips made from freeze dried lomo, a cured meat made from pork tenderloin. The chips are deliciously crisp and salty. Accompanying these slivers of meaty goodness is a "dip" of potato foamed augmented with a smoky barbeque sauce and tempered by a light dusting of chives. I think I've found my new favorite beer food.

02: beet macaroon - foie gras, cara cara orange
I don't normally care for beet but I absolutely loved the macaroons sugary airy crunch and the ensuing mouth filling richness from the foie gras center.

03: mock oyster - malt vinegar, oyster leaf, salsify
This was probably the most intriguing dish of the night; the ivory sphere starts off with a creamy sweetness but as the ingredients mix the flavor perfectly mimics the brine of a fresh oyster.

04: sashimi of fluke - blood orange, ginger, nasturtium, cucumber blossom, sea beans
This was one of my favorite courses of the night. Fluke is a lightly flavored fish therefore having the right accompaniments becomes critical. The fried flower petals(?) give the fish a heavy savory flavor while the cucumber, sea beans, and peppers add a countervailing vegetal freshness.

05: goat cheese ravioli - bartlett pear, cippolini onions, golden sage
Despite my affinity for meat, I have come to appreciate the well designed vegetarian dishes like this ravioli. The grassy tang of the goat cheese is immediately apparent but the delicate sweetness of the pear and onion temper the cheese's astringency making it easier to appreciate the overall savoriness of the dish.

06: clam chowder - mock root vegetable, parsley, dehydrated bacon
The first thing I noticed was the broth seemed to take on the flavor of whatever it was eaten with. My first mouthful tasted of smoke from the bacon but the next bite exuded earthy brine from the clams. Taken all together the soup really does emulate its namesake, a creamy brine tinged potage filled with hearty starchy goodness.

07: lobster - cauliflower mushroom, steel cut oats, kombu, fresh yeast
One of the other diners at the table dubbed this a lobster oatmeal and I couldn't agree more. The dish exudes a captivating aroma of melted butter with the sweetness of the shellfish coming through cleanly on the palate. The oats provide a hearty rusticity while the kombu masterfully tempers their grainy flavors leaving the lobster as the focal point for the dish.

08: halibut - butternut squash risotto, laughing bird farm shrimp, sea spear
In my experience, halibut can be a temperamental fish but no surprise the kitchen had its measure here. The fish has a beautiful golden crust and moist flaky texture. A lightly flavored fish, the halibut needed the bits of shrimp to counter the nuanced sweetness of the risotto while the succulent greens provided a rejuvenating lift on the finish.

09: cavatelli - broccoli variations, sheeps milk ricotta, preserved lemon
Yet another sublime vegetarian course, the plump meaty bite of the cavatelli makes the dish immensely satisfying and hearty, while the broccoli provides an explosively astringency herbacousness that is deftly balanced by the creaminess of the ricotta and the subtle undercurrent of citrus from the lemon.

10: red wattle pork belly - carolina gold rice porridge, whitmore farm hen egg, pork crackling
Our server described this as a deconstructed pork fried rice. Trying the pork on its own, I noticed the meat was tender enough to cut with a fork while the meat's powerful brine reminded me of Michael's pastrami pigeon. Mixing the porridge and egg together created a creamy melage to temper the belly's unabashed savoriness.

11: autumn garden - beets, balsamic, petite carrots, coffee soil
I've never had a bad gargouillou course that I didn't like and even the heavy use of beets in this course couldn't change that. The coffee soil was absolutely brilliant its prominent earthy bitterness providing the structure to manage the sweetness of the beets and carrots.

12: foie gras - macoun apple, quince, crystal lettuce, brioche
Of all the courses, I can't believe I forgot to photograph the foie gras. The disc of buttery liver is presented with a mix of accents, but the seductively rich foie stands on its own rendering the accompaniments completely unnecessary. I was happy just to smother chunks of the creamy liver and spread it on the airy mini-brioche.

13: pork loin - yellow corn grits, broccoli rabe, petite turnip
I've never cared much for pork loin, but this was exceptional. The meat exhibited a firm satisfying toothsomeness and an ever so slight savoriness. The clean flavor of the pork lent itself well to the multifaceted attack of the grits, rabe, and turnip.

14: lamb - cauliflower, crisp panise, smoked golden raisin
This was a rarefied piece of lamb; the meat was tender and succulent with almost no gaminess to speak of. Again the cauliflower and raisin provide contrasting sweet and bitter notes but it was the crisp savoriness of the panisse that I appreciated most.

15: pineland farms strip loin - chanterelle mushrooms, kohlrabi, cheddar, curly kale
The final savory was a cut of beef strip loin, its beautifully expressive beefy flavor pairs naturally with the chanterelle and lightly cheesy funk. The kale and kohlrabi provide a heavy bitter contrast but the powerful meatiness cuts right through.

16: monocacy ash - walnut crisp, minus 8 vinegar
Our cheese course consisted of a single soft ripened goat cheese from Cherry Glen Goat Cheese Company, a local Maryland farm. The Monocacy Ash is a two layer cheese with a layer of edible ash separating the two. The cheese has a slightly chalky mouthfeel that was nicely balanced by the succulence of the fruit. The gamy tang of the cheese was more restrained that I expected with grassy and citrus notes on the finish.

17: coconut - lavender, vanilla
My second lapse of the night was our intermezzo. A coconut foam flash frozen with liquid nitrogen to create a soft creamy gelatto like dessert. The superb tropical essence of the coconut is heightened by equally emphatic floral and aromatic notes from the lavender and vanilla.

18: delicata squash - pear, blue cheese, walnut
This reminded me of a deconstructed carrot cake. The ripe sweetness of the squash pairs nicely with the impromptu "crust" formed by the buttery crumbs while the blue cheese adds a funky savory twist.

19: textures of chocolate
The final dessert was a Voltaggio staple. Featuring his signature flexible chocolate ganache, a chocolate ice cream, and cocoa powder the dish runs the gamut of flavors from creamy sweet to astringently bitter to go with the equally varied array of textures.

20:pumpkin buttered rum
Instead of a welcome cocktail, we were given a warm digestif dubbed "comfort in a glass" by our waiter. Hot liquid is poured over a pad of butter infused with spice, pumpkin, and brown sugar and the result is an aromatic spiced tea that exudes waves of warm soothing calmness; truly comfort in a glass.

21: chocolates, candies, and macaroons
To finish we have a set of four petit fours: pineapple pate de fruit, gingersnap, chocolate macaroon, and hazelnut truffle. Each diner was also given a gift box with seconds of all the mignardises. I hate to admit it but chocolate and candies make a shamefully good breakfast.

I was expecting an unparalleled dining experience and Table 21 delivered on all counts. Thoughtfully innovative flawless technique combined with both progressive flavors and familiar touches combine to create a meal that is at once whimsical and comfortable. Assuming you can secure one of the coveted seats at Table 21, the meal is well worth the trip and even if you cant plan your schedule 16 months in advance, the menu in the main dining room is still a nice consolation prize if you find yourself in the DC area.

Wolf in Sheep's Clothing @ Capri - 12/02/2011

2011-12-03T11:40:00.000-08:00

1616 Abbot Kinney Blvd
Venice, CA 90291
(310) 392-8777

Wolf in Sheep's Clothing is the new popup concept from chefs Brian Dunsmoor (Axe) and Kris Tominaga (Joe's Restaurant). The duo dubbed their restaurant Wolf in Sheep's Clothing in a nod to the way popups hide inside other restaurants. The duo previously had a brief run in November, but December 1st marked the end of the soft opening period. The food seems to be in line with other restaurants in the area like Gjelina and Tasting Kitchen so I was curious to see how the new upstart would compete with the established kids on the block.

midas touch, dogfish head
The Midas Touch has been one of my favorite beers since I first tried it. Supposedly brewed using an ancient Egyptian recipe, this bear incorporates muscat and saffron into a fruity heady elixir.

idiot ipa, coronado
This was a classic IPA, all crisp citrus and pine notes and hoppy kick, the bitterness helped cleanse the palate between

marinated green olives
A gift from the kitchen, these were among the best olives that I've ever tasted. The bright green olives were surprisingly mild, tempered by a blend of citrus and herbs that gave them a delicious savory touch.

local squid - shelling beans, garlic, pea tendrils, grilled bread
The first thing I noticed when this dish was brought to the table was the heavenly aroma of butter coming off of the grilled bread. The tender squid and garlic provide a savory punch contrasted deftly by the pea tendrils. Though I don't normally care for beans, I found their weighty rusticity quite pleasing in the context of this course.

baked oysters - creamed spinach, bacon, shrimp
This was one of the best preparations of cooked oyster that I've ever had and a contender for best dish of the night. The attack is all creamed spinach and bacon with the oyster adding an underlying brine. A bit of lemon juice improves the dish substantially, adding a clarifying depth that enhances the other flavors and brings the oysters more into focus.

quail - cornbread, dandelion greens, smoked maple
The bird was reminiscent of a roast chicken with rosemary but with more depth of flavor from the quail. The maple adds a sense of sweetness that compliments the cornbread while the smokiness makes sure the bird remains the focal point of the dish.

country pork fritter - bread & butter pickles, hot mustard dressing
Our waiter said this dish was getting rave reviews and it was easy to see why. The batter around the pork is lithe and crunchy while the interior exudes a rich porcine sapor without being overly heavy. The marinated greens and sweet pickles add a piquant levity that further tempers the pork.

mischief golden hoppy ale, the bruery
We finished with a local beer, The Bruery's Mischief, a Belgian style pale ale. The beer offers some typical spicy yeast and fruit with a strong hoppy bite on the backend.

butterfish - cockles, miners lettuce, fennel, salsa verde
Living up to its name, the fish is dense and satisfying the salsa verde and fennel give the fish a herb-y pesto kick. The fish actually gets a bit lost under the greens but the cockle helps bring it right back. On their own the cockles are a bit overwhelming but they work beautifully with the rest of the dish.

sprouting broccoli - pork cheek, chili vinaigrette
This was another strong contender for best course of the night. The crisp vegetal greens literally sang in conjunction with the spicy bite of the chili vinaigrette. The bold flavor of the vegetable stood up to the pork cheek which was like a crouton of molten fat, adding depth and richness to the broccoli.

hanger steak - anchovy and olive butter, charred escarole
Exemplifying the gimmick free mantra of the restaurant, the hangar steak is accompanied by butter and greens and little else. The meat is cooked to a perfect temperature and the expressive beefy flavor comes through in every juicy bite.

mushrooms - sweetbreads, puff pastry
The final course of the night was an unabashedly heavy sledgehammer of butter, sweetbreads and mushroom. The slab of sweetbread looked intimidating but the flavor is fairly mild with a faint eggy tinge.

pickles of the day
An eclectic mix of pickles, featuring radishes, green tomatoes, shiitake, and Asian pear, this was the perfect palate cleanser for the heavier meat dishes like the steak and sweetbreads.

apple pie - hooks cheddar
I've never cared much for apple pie but this was a pleasing departure from the norm. The pie itself is surprisingly mild and the white cheddar adds a palpable savoriness.

warm lemon curd - shortbread cookies
Though straightforward in design the dish was like an optical illusion; the flavor kept alternating seamlessly between sharp tart lemon and a unctuous savoriness.

Truthfully I didn't know what to expect with Wolf in Sheep's Clothing but I walked away very impressed. The courses feature expertly prepared ingredients highlighted by simple effective combinations and contrasts that are easy to appreciate. Chefs Dunsmoor and Tominaga stated that their goal is to create gimmick free rustic country fare and they deliver that to a T.

Picca - 11/22/2011

2011-11-24T03:14:00.000-08:00

9575 West Pico Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90035
(310) 277-0133

Picca has easily been one of LA's hottest restaurants since it opened five months ago. I was lucky enough to score a seat on opening night and the fifty course meal we had still stands as the most courses I've eaten in a single sitting. As full as I was I couldn't appreciate many of the later courses as much as I should have. I've been meaning to come back for some time now, both to see how the restaurant has fared and to enjoy the food in a much more leisurely setting.

ZARATE'S TOMAHAWK - rocoto infused mezcal, fresh lemon juice, agave nectar, fresh huacatay, cucumber foam, shaken
Despite my initial apprehension, I've become quite a fan of mezcal add in the cucumber and there was no way I could pass this up. The drink leads off with a thick texture and sweetness from the foam that fades quickly leading to the petrol woody character of the mezcal.

PHIL COLLINS - blanco tequila, dry vermouth, aperol, lemon, peychaud bitters, shaken topped with soda water
The Phil Collins is one of the stronger cocktails I've had, vinous with a bitter alcoholic burn that belies its innocuous pink color

chicharron de costillas - crispy pork ribs crostini, sweet potato puree, feta cheese sauce, salsa criolla
This was one of my favorites the previous time around and with fewer courses I was able to better appreciate the interaction between the richness of the chicharron with the pungent tang of the cheese and the fresh bite of the criolla.

albacore ceviche - ponzu leche de tigre, japanese cucumber
The albacore ceviche was one of the evening's specials. Definitely more Japanese in flavor, the leche de tigre is markedly softer and less astringent than that of Picca's other ceviches. The fish itself is lightly seared giving it a deeper flavor that further balanced the acidity of the marinade.

tiradito - scallop, sea urchin
Another of the day's specials, the combination of raw scallop and uni sounded too good to pass up. The fresh shellfish was easily good enough to stand on its own, but in true Peruvian fashion came coated in a piquant sauce.

anticucho beef filet - sea urchin butter, garlic chip
It was a treat to sit at the bar and watch Ricardo cook this up right in front of us. Despite being a fairly thin cut, the meat is tender with a pleasing umami succulence from the butter. The smattering of greens gives a subtle bitter contrast to the smoky richness of the meat.

PISCO SOUR - pisco, fresh lemon and lime juice, sugar, cassia scented egg white, shake like a polaroid picture, angostura bitters
I wouldn't normally opt for such a basic cocktail, but I needed something to remind myself what the drink was supposed to taste like after the horrific version I ordered at the W Hotel. This was just what I expected thick and foamy with a lightly tart sweetness, very satisfying and easy drinking.

SLUMDOG CHAMILLIONAIRE (aka JONESTOWN SOUR) - quebranta pisco, red grape cardamon black pepper coulis, fresh lemon juice, evaporated cane sugar
Despite the charming, name I didn't care for the cocktail on account of the coulis, the mixture of cardamom and grape giving the drink a disconcerting cloying spice.

causa spicy yellowtail - spicy mayo, green onions, wasabi tobiko
Part of me feels guilty ordering spicy yellowtail, but I quite enjoyed the combination of creamy mayo, tangy potato, and oily fish.

causa albacore - garlic chip, ceviche sauce
Last time around this was the best of the causa, thanks to its deep char. While I still enjoyed this preparation, the combination of tuna and potato tasted more conventional, like a tuna salad but with a Southwestern flair thanks to the spicy ceviche sauce.

oysters a la chalaca - pan fried oysters, cherry tomatoes sarsa
Though I normally prefer my oysters raw, these are easily my favorite cooked preparation. Wrapped under the deliciously crispy exterior is a creamy core that retains some of the bivalve's characteristic flavor albeit drastically tempered. The result is a sapid crunch that reminds me more of a chicken nugget than an oyster.

arroz con erizo - peruvian paella, mixed seafood, sea urchin sauce
I should have ordered more of the heaver courses as I was too full to appreciate them properly the last time around. The flavor of the rice bears a distinct woodiness mixed with the sweet brine of the seafood as well as a forceful peppery bite.

tres leches cake
The last time I had this there were too many distractions. This time around the cake, in all its cinnamon-y sweet airy goodness is the star. Interestingly the jammy raspberry base I found overwhelming the last time around was much more enjoyable with this simpler iteration.

My first experience at Picca remains one of the best restaurant openings I've ever attended. Happily, not much has changed; while there were some new menu items and some dishes have been polished, the food was just as soulful and delicious as I remember.

2011 White Truffle Dinner @ LQ@SK - 11/15/2011

2011-11-16T16:32:00.000-08:00

350 S Grand Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90071
(213) 617-3474

After a week of eager anticipation, here we are at night two of LQ's 18-course white truffle dinner. Laurent is justifiably renowned for his annual truffle dinners and I'd first heard about them in 2010 but couldn't end up attending that 19-course affair. WIth the shuttering of Bistro LQ earlier this year, I feared I'd never get my chance to indulge in this tuberous extravaganza. Fortunately Laurent has found a new home with the LQ@SK dinner series and was audacious enough to use his pop-up as a forum for this white truffle debauch.

LQ@SK is strictly a BYOB affair, but for an occasion of this magnitude they partnered with Domaine LA to tailor a wine pairing for the meal. I had originally planned to stop by but was thwarted by the downtown rush hour. With only a few minutes to spare I stopped in at a local store and grabbed whatever looked handy. We ended up with a rich Belgian Pale Ale, a versatile cremant, to a earthy pinot.

Amuse: Truffle Gel 3 ways - Vodka, Gin, Tequila
The amuse consisted of three alcohol spherifications. First up was a savory sweet huckleberry infused vodka. The gin featured a slice of mandarin that combined tasted oddly like seafood. The tequila was the most powerful of the trio, the deep woody burn overwhelming the delicate accompaniment of lime and salt.

01: Cucumber Ice Cream - Salmon Roe, Blinis, Truffles
I expected the cucumber ice cream to be fresh and light but the yogurt and ice cream was reminiscent of a tatziki but with a more intense piquancy. The salmon roe and blinis added a warm essence of smoke and salt to counter the icy tang of the cucumber.

02: Cold Poached Quail Eggs Mold in Pork Aspic - with Celeriac, Fresh Truffles
This was one of the best courses of the night. The jellied egg and pork combined the flavor of a meaty consommé with a deep truffle earthiness while the micro orchids provided a contrasting light flavor similar to watermelon rind.

03: Truffle Panna Cotta - Sea Urchin Emulsion, Tosaka Seaweed
Despite being a quintessentially Japanese ingredient, I've seen Laurent work wonders with uni and this was no different. The truffle panna cotta was remarkably light, like eating a dense pillowy cloud. The sea urchin provides a wonderful livery brine to compliment the fungi-infused custard. Unfortunately there wasn't enough uni to go around and the last couple bites of panna cotta were a touch bland.

04: Rabbit Tartare - with Truffle, Celery Root Truffle Remoulade, Argan Oil Vinaigrette
This was my first time having raw rabbit and hopefully not the last. The texture and flavor reminded me of a hamachi enlivened by a peppery kick and the heavenly aroma of white truffle. The celery root added a sense of complexity and contrast to what was already an immensely delicate and satisfying course, making this my favorite of the night.

05: Green Daikon - Dungeness Crab, Serrano Ham Pico De Gallo
As was expected the daikon and crab was one of the night's lighter dishes. The creamy crab and crisp daikon complimented each other well, but the serrano laced pico de gallo gave the crab a slightly fishy cast

06: Scottish Hare Truffle Consommé - Boudin Blanc, Hare Shu-Mai
One of my chief complaints with consommé is the general lack of flavor, but that wasn't a problem here, the deep rich savoriness of the soup was reminiscent of pho broth but with a slightly gamy disposition. The hare shu-mai was similarly rich and gamy thanks to the incorporation of offal with the hare meat. The sausage was a repeat of the corn dog from our last visit and just as delicious as I remember.

07: Truffle Lobster Tapioca Pudding - Diver Scallops, Green Tea Sabayon
A week ago I remarked that the scallop was a very slight bit overdone, but this time it was spot on perfect, quivering alabaster flesh with a sweet perfume of shellfish amplified by the heady essence of the lobster pudding.

08: Truffle Congee - Spiny Lobster, 24 months Comte Cheese
This was another of the courses that caught my eye when I first heard about this dinner and it lived up to my every expectation. The cheese soaked rice is tender and robust with whiff of barley or some other more flavorful grain while the lobster has a beautifully rare snap and deep shellfish sweetness.

09: Monkfish Cheek - Hazelnut Butter Vinaigrette, Leeks Truffles
I almost cringed when I saw how large the monkfish cheek was. The muscular cheek is mush firmer and more full bodied than most fish cheeks I've tasted. Still the keys here were the rich aroma of butter and truffle making this one of the evening's simpler courses.

10: Scrambled Eggs - Truffles, Nopales, Truffle Mole
Scrambled eggs are one of the most classic accompaniments with truffles. For my part, I prefer runny yolks, finding scrambled preparations a bit too eggy for my taste tho the textural contrast and vegetal character of the nopales did much to balance the egg. I thought Chef Quenioux was taking a page from Ludo's playbook with the mole, but instead of a true mole, Laurent made a darkly savory sauce from game offal that mimics the consistency of a true mole.

11: Oxtail and Truffle Grilled Cheese
This was another standout when I first perused the menu. The grilled cheese is simply exquisite, buttery toasty bread wrapped around a tender semi molten cheese. The braised oxtail adds a pleasing richness while the two slivers of radish seem like an afterthought their succulence was crucial to tempering the weight of the meat and cheese.

12: Bone Marrow Toast - Beef Culotte, Truffles, Huckleberries
I was expecting the bone marrow to be overly heavy and while it does add an oleaginous sensation to the morsel, it is the concentrated beefy flavor of the culotte that comes through most clearly.

13: Scottish Wood Pigeon - Fresh Fig, Green Lentils, Parsnip, Miso, Nameko
I was really curious how wood pigeon differed from the more common species present at other restaurants. The wood pigeon turned out to be substantially more gamy as well as leaner, giving the meat a much tougher texture. As full as I was at this point, the accompaniments, of fig and parsnip were a bit heavy but I did like the savory-sweet essence of the miso.

14: Veal Sweetbreads - Duck Foie Gras Soft Taco, Chanterelles
I have to be honest this course actually scared me, combining foie gras with sweetbreads sounds like a heart attack waiting to happen. As it was the two kinds of offal played off each other quite nicely. The sweetbread was firmer with a more bitter iron sapor while the foie gras was almost saccharine by comparison. The duo was wrapped in the softest tortilla that I've ever tasted all around a lovely course and I ate every bite despite being bursting full.

15: Purslane Salad - Curdled Yolk, Truffles
Kind of odd ending the meal with a simple salad, maybe Laurent felt bad for destroying our arteries with the preceding 14 courses. All things considered, the salad was quite refreshing, combining the herbaceousness of pea shoots with a concentrated acidity.

16: Cheese Cart
The cheese course was back in full force though I was too full to properly appreciate it. The one bright spot I clearly recall was the presence of Epoisses, a pungent runny cheese that is one of my favorite cheeses of all time.

17: Truffle "Elote" Tamale - Steamed Milk
With generous slices of white truffle steeping, the steamed milk was actually one of the single most expressive flavors of the night. The composed ambient truffle essence was perfect with the cakey savory flavor of the sweet corn tamale.

18: Beer Taffy - Truffle Barley Ice Cream, Hop Caramel Fleur de sel Cremeux, Beer Truffle Varnish, Cacahuates Japoneses
Nguyen described this as the most intense course of the night and he was dead on. The plate was sprinkled with actual chunks of truffle just in case diners didn't get enough during the previous 17 courses. Incorporating the basic elements of beer along with beer nuts, Nguyen described this course as a deconstructed beer experience. I could have done with a bit less of the cremaux as the hoppy kick reminded me of a concentrated and reduced IPA. The sweetness of the the barely ice cream and sticky beer varnish were absolutely critical to balance the explosive musk of the white truffle and bitter grassiness of the hops.

As expected, the white truffle dinner far and away exceeded anything I've seen from Laurent before. When using something as spectacular as white truffle, there is a desire to let the ingredient stand on its own. Instead these dishes were complex and well thought out, incorporating large amounts of game and other hearty flavors. While the luxurious aroma of the truffle played a part in all of the dishes , most of the courses could have stood on their own just as well without the truffle. For those of you who missed this meal, don't worry, Laurent mentioned this wouldn't be the last truffle dinner and the next one might be coming sooner than expected.

LQ@SK - 11/07/2011

2011-11-09T21:13:00.000-08:00

350 S Grand Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90071
(213) 617-3474

When I first heard Laurent was going to do an 18 course truffle menu I scrambled to find dining companions before the event sold out. While I eventually found two takers, they were understandably apprehensive about dropping $350 on a chef they never heard of. This dinner was intended as an audition of sorts; a chance for the two to meet Laurent before the main event.

Hair of the Dog, Ruth, American Pale Ale
What better to compliment a hot dog than with beer. The Ruth APA is starts out with the prototypical citrus and hoppy bite but the mid-palate turns substantially sweeter with flavors of apple and honey to temper the bitterness of the hops.

Amuse: Sweetbread Corn Dog - Lobster Newburg Gel
Ironically, a sweetbread hot dog might not be too different from a typical hot dog in terms of composition, Laurent is just more upfront about whats in his. The sweetbread had a texture far softer than the hot dog but a touch firmer than the slightly runny consistency I was expecting. The rich peppery bite was also far more innocuous than the typical offal sapor. The Newburg gel had a rich savory lobster essence that was quite delicious on its own, but the flavor was overshadowed by the corndog.

N.V. Pierre Peters, Blanc de Blancs, Brut Cuvée de Reserve, Champagne, France
I selected a sparkling to pair with the Albondigas and Scallops. I quite enjoyed this champagne, light and crisp with a balanced attack of minerality and stone fruit.

01: Wild Game Albondigas Soup - Sautéed Foie Gras
Finally my first taste of bear! The meatballs were an amalgam of wood pigeon, bear, and hare that carried a surprising game free savoriness. Accompanying the meatballs was a deep satisfying broth reminiscent of concentrated chicken noodle soup. Though I typically prefer cold foie, this was a simple yet particularly noteworthy warm preparation. The caramelized exterior had a nuanced livery tang but the semi-molten interior was pure unctuous decadence, reminiscent of the foie shabu shabu at Urasawa.

02: Diver Scallops - Beets, Celery Root, Figs, Pomegranate Molasses, Argan Oil, Jerez Vinegar
The scallops were a hair firmer than I liked but still quite tender. With beets and figs playing a prominent role I expected the dish to be overly saccharine, but the salinity of the scallops countered the duo nicely.

2007 Pyramid Valley Pinot Noir, Eaton Family Vineyards, Marlborough, New Zealand
For our meat courses, I opted for a lighter red, in the Pyramid Valley Pinot. A very satisfying wine, with intense aromas of sour cherry, cocoa and a hint of herbs. The wine goes down silky smooth, balanced on the palate with juicy fruit and earthy notes.

03: Chanterelles - Hazelnuts, Chestnut, Cranberry Varnish, Wild Arugula, Rabbit, Quail Egg
I consider rabbit to be a more restrained meat but the flavor was deliciously robust. The salad was equally impressive the toasted nuts and fresh arugula were tinged with the aroma of truffles. Taken together the dish became a dynamic melange of flavor and texture that was absolutely stellar.

04: Beef "culotte" - Croustillant of Potatoes, Bacon, Onion, Passion Fruit "jus"
The final savory of a night was a simple top sirloin cap, firmer with a depth of beefy flavor. The base layer of potatoes, bacon, and onion reminded me of an Alsatian tart and could have stood on its own while the passion fruit "jus" cuts through the weightiness of the beef and tart with a mouth-puckering tang.

05: The Cheese Cart - Truffle Honey, Toasted Hazelnuts, Carroway Seeds, Pumpkin & Ginger, Fig Tomatillo & Serrano, Fennel, Blended Berry Balsamic
It's been a while since I've had a fromage so it was nice to to see one so extensive. We opted for a selection of seven cheeses definitely favoring softer cow's milk cheese. The blue ended The truffle honey smelled fairly mild but exploded on the palate with a complex heady truffle essence that was so good I could have eaten the bread alone.

06: Ginger Snap Crumble - Spice Cake, Chestnut Ice Cream, Chocolate Mousse, Rhubarb Gel
Our sweet course consisted of a prototypical spice cake and chestnut ice cream combo, very appropriate to the season while the chocolate mousse added a nice bitter twang and the rhubarb gel had a resonant acidity that matched its vivid color.

The audition was a resounding success, combining his trademark whimsy with expressive flavor, this was the most impressive cooking I've tasted from Laurent yet though I expect that to be exceeded shortly.

Five Crowns - 10/03/2011

2011-11-06T23:14:00.000-08:00

3801 E Coast Highway
Corona Del Mar, CA 92625
(949) 760-0331

Back when I first started eating out regularly, I was a meat and potatoes kind of guy, and a good steak was my idea of the pinnacle of culinary indulgence. Despite my love for beef, I never really ordered prime rib with any regularity. In fact, I still haven't had the prime rib at Lawry's though I did visit Five Crowns once before on the recommendation of a friend. Even though the details of that meal have been lost to antiquity, I distinctly remember being disappointed, finding the food tired even to my unrefined palate at the time. Hence my return wasn't a voluntary decision but rather something forced on me by familial obligations.

Crispy Rock Shrimp - horseradish aioli, tomato foam
Crisp in name only, the shrimp had a rubbery texture while the blunt tomato sauce saturated the batter, giving it a wet mealy consistency.

Seared Dayboat Scallops - preserved cherry tomatoes, toasted hazelnuts
This was the best of the appetizers. The scallops were a touch small, but still offered a nice balance of caramelization with a sufficiently rare center with a spray of fresh lime juice to heighten the bivalve's salinity.

Caesar Salad - roasted cherry tomatoes, crispy squash
Despite being a bit tired, the salad was enjoyable enough with crisp succulent Romaine and a tangy peppery sauce. A traditional Caesar doesn't include the tomatoes or squash, but I found their presence on the plate unnecessary.

Oxtail and Farro Soup - roasted chanterelles
I was expecting something with oxtail and chanterelles to be more robust instead of the thin vegetable-tinged beef consomme. My aunt seemed to enjoy the broth but I found it seriously lacking in flavor.

Seared Wild King Salmon - white corn risotto, blistered cherry tomatoes
Messy presentation aside, this was probably the most enjoyable dish of the night. The fish was cooked to a nice temperature with a charred crispy skin. The risotto was equally competent with a tinge of sweetness which along with the tart cherries helped counter the weight of the dark savory sauce.

Henry VIII - served with au jus, Yorkshire Pudding, whipped cream organic horseradish, creamed corn, mashed potatoes
As part of the Lawry's family of restaurants, Five Crowns is known for its prime rib. Here we have a rare Henry VIII cut, the largest serving the restaurant offers. Though I typically enjoy my meat rare, I found the muscle fibers and sinew didn't have enough time to soften making it difficult to cut and chew the meat. Fairly traditional sides accompany the slab of meat with the yorkshire pudding being the standout; an airy puff of baked batter that was the perfect vessel for the meat jus and gravy.

Though the menu seems to have been revamped since my last visit, the food hasn't shed its institutional feel. That being said I did find some things to enjoy about my experience this time around though not enough that I would ever feel the need to return.

Chung Hae Jin - 10/26/2011

2011-11-03T18:09:00.000-07:00

3470 W 6th Street
Ste 8A
Los Angeles, CA 90020
(213) 384-5825

One of the basic assumptions of food that most people take for granted is that food should not move under its own power. The one notable exception that comes to mind is Sannakji, a Korean dish consisting of raw octopus tentacles. Nicole of Cake and Heels was kind enough to invite me to Chung Hae Jin with her friends who were brave enough to try it.

Tempura
First up was a small basket of tempura. The batter was crisp, airy, and not overly oily; just how a good tempura should be. Unfortunately, there wasn't quite enough to go around the entire table.

Clam Soup
Along with the tempura came a light clam broth, thin and watery with a light salinity from the clams.

Izmidai Salad with Hot Sauce
Think of this as a sashimi salad Korean-style, the dressing was a bold spicy sauce, rather than the tangy ponzu based sauces at Japanese restaurants.

Hama Hama Oysters
These large generously fleshy oysters were topped with a dollop of hot sauce which gave them a nice spicy smack that faded away to reveal the bivalve's characteristic brine.

Sea Squirt
Sea Squirts are tubular filter feeding invertebrates that attach to rocks or shells. Contained within the thick leathery "tunic", is a yellowish cartilaginous flesh that tasted intensely of brackish water. Aside from the Sannakji, this was probably the most challenging dish of the night.

Marinated Octopus
Along with the sea squirt came a teaser for the main course. The mild octopus had a pleasing firmness and gentle tartness that the entire party seemed to enjoy.

Live Abalone
This was probably my favorite course of the night. Aside from the snappy foot muscle, we were served the abalone's dark grey innards which were noticeably milder than other preparations that I've had.

Live Lobster
I quite enjoyed the live lobster, the firm cream colored flesh had a nice bite to it and a trace of brine-tinged sweetness. As we were eating, one of the lobster's swimmerets would twitch occasionally drawing stares from some people at the table.

Sashimi
Chung Hae Jin is known for its live halibut sashimi so it stands to reason this gargantuan platter of sashimi would serve as our main course. Primarily composed of the aforementioned halibut, there was also octopus, yellow tail, salmon and tuna thrown in for good measure. Though the sashimi was enjoyable, it quickly became overwhelming without something to break up the parade of raw fish.

Grilled Unagi
In addition to being a touch overdone, the eel needed a bit more seasoning, quite the departure from the typical sauce drenched preparation at sushi restaurants.

Sannakji
The "live" octopus tentacles came to the table wriggling fiercely much to the consternation of our party. One of the other diners in attendance had never eaten raw fish before and up to this point had taken everything in stride, but the sight of the severed tentacles writhing on their own distressed him to no end (much to the amusement of Nicole). The movement died down once the plate was placed on the table, but any sort of contact or motion caused the entire mass to undulate disconcertingly again. In the end all the build up was for naught, I found the tentacles to be quite benign and aside from one piece that got stuck to the roof of my mouth I couldn't tell any difference from normal raw octopus.

Grilled Mackerel
Mackerel is already one of the oilier fishes and grilling the fish just dried it out, exacerbating the flavor. Though I didn't care much for the fish, having something cooked was a nice change of pace.

Spicy Lobster Soup
The final course was a soup made from the shell of the lobster sashimi we had earlier. I appreciated the bold spicy flavor but I wish they threw in some noodles to counter all that raw fish and beer roiling around in my gut.

The food at Chung Hae Jin isn't particularly impressive, but then again I wasn't expecting it to be. I came to try the Sannakji and without that novelty, I really don't see a compelling reason for a return trip.

A-Frame 10/29/2011

2011-10-30T09:24:00.000-07:00

12565 Washington Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90066
(310) 398-7700

After bringing the food truck phenomenon mainstream with Kogi, Roy Choi has expanded his burgeoning empire first with Chego, and now A-Frame (and soon Beechwood Kitchen in Venice). Built in a defunct IHOP, A-Frame is labeled as a modern picnic serving good food that is meant to be shared and enjoyed without the pretension of more refined restaurants.

CRISTOPHER OAXACAN - Mezcal, habanero, lime, orange
Nothing subtle about this drink, the combination of mezcal and habanero combines for a one-two punch of smoke and spice tempered ever so slightly by a sweet citrus tang.

SCARLET SWIZZLE - Rum, Grand Marnier, falernum, lime, bitters
I really had a hard time describing this drink. Besides the slight burn of the rum, the combination of falernum, lime and bitters balance one another nicely resulting in a pleasing but somewhat nondescript libation.

CURED STRIPED BASS - with clarified watermelon juice, Thai basil, cucumber and pickled watermelon rind
A prototypically light fish course, that felt a bit watered down for my tastes. I would have preferred a more robust sweet herbaceousness from the combination of melon, basil and cucumber, but given that this was the first course the light freshness wasn't entirely unwelcome.

SESAME LEAF WRAPPED SHRIMP TEMPURA - with fresh cucumber and herbs and shoyu dipping sauce
This was one of the strongest courses of the night. The shrimp itself was overshadowed by the addictively tangy bite of the dipping sauce and the fresh zest of the accompanying herbs. The sesame dusted cucumber provided a pleasing succulent respite between bites of the tempura.

CHARRED BABY OCTOPUS - with carrot kochujang puree, bok choy, pickled vegetables and nori seaweed
I rarely pass up an octopus course these days and though the mollusk could have been a touch rarer, the sweetness of the lightly caramelized exterior complimented the crisp vegetal levity of the vegetables nicely.

CLAM CHOWDER - with green curry, lemongrass, pancetta, coconut milk and toasted sourdough
Another contender for best dish of the night, the mixture of curry, lemongrass and coconut milk is reminiscent of a tom yum soup while the pancetta and clams add a subtle umami sapor to the broth.

THE TRICK - Tequila, cucumber, ginger, lemongrass, chile salt
I almost always order cucumber-based cocktails and this was right up my alley with a piquant spice and fresh undercurrent thanks to the cucumber.

DEL MAR - Bourbon, grapefruit, vanilla, honey, allspice
I was hoping for an assertive bourbon drink tempered by the grapefruit and other accompaniments, but the Del Mar definitely favored the allspice and vanilla, giving the drink a sweet spiced warmth that I found reminiscent of Christmas.

FURIKAKE KETTLE CORN - buttered Blazin’ J’s Hawaiian style
Part of the "modern picnic" experience is the use of communal tables where strangers can get to know each other and share a meal. Chris and Janice, the couple sharing our table was kind enough to offer us some of their kettle corn which I found quite tasty; the typical salty sweet combination is amped up with a heady buttered richness.

BABY BACK RIBS - air-dried and hoisin-chili glazed
I'm not really sure how I feel about this course; on the one hand, I enjoyed the crisp exterior of the meat, but at the same time I found the ribs a bit dry. The glaze gave the meat a flavor reminiscent of chashu, basically BBQ with an Asian flair.

ROASTED LAMB - with toasted sesame oil, shoyu and garlic served with fresh herb salad and salsa verde
The roasted leg of lamb was a nice change from the more common lamb chops. With generous bits of fat, the meat was one of the gamier preparations of lamb that I've had lately but the salad and tang of the salsa verde deftly countered the weight of the meat.

DYN-O-MITE - butter and sour cream twice baked duchesse potato with chives and parmesan crust
Duchesse potatoes are typically a combination of mashed potato and egg; this preparation is augmented by heavy doses of butter and cream as well as a nutty salinity from the parmesan. A simplistic and satisfying dish that reflects the unpretentious nature of the restaurant.

KNUCKLE SANDWICH - braised bowl of oxtail, tendons, knuckles and other forgotten pieces served with soy chili dipping sauce, and toasted bread
I had envisioned a bowl of fried bits and pieces rather than the soupy preparation that we got. A touch bland on its own, the knuckle sandwich reminded me of a Chinese beef noodle soup once we poured the soy dipping sauce into the bowl.

FRESCAS FIZZ - Gin, hibiscus, lemon, egg white, orange bitters
My final drink of the evening was an aromatic gin mixture topped with a thick frothy head of whipped egg.

WAIALUA HAWAIIAN NATURAL - Lilikoi soda
Though A Frame has a good selection of alcoholic offerings, they also offer an interesting selection of soft drinks. Though lilikoi is Hawaiian for passion fruit, this drink had more of a peach or melon like flavor.

THICK ASS ICE CREAM SANDWICHES - black pepper szechuan ice cream and salted chocolate cookie
The sweetness of the ice cream is tinged with the subtle fragrance of the Szechuan peppercorns, a savory compliment to the salted chocolate cookies.

CHU-DON’T-KNOW-MANG - pound cake cinnamon churros, with malted chocolate milk and vanilla ice cream
Definitely one of the more creatively named courses I've seen. Beneath the crunchy thick exterior of the churro, lurked a soft dense absorbent cake-y core. We were advised to take a bite of the churro then dip it into the milk and let it soak up the heady chocolate and vanilla goodness.

A Frame doesn't have the sophistication or polish of other contemporary Asian restaurants like Lukshon or Red Medicine, but the food is comfortable, satisfying and fun, everything a picnic should be.

Newport Seafood - 10/02/2011

2011-10-23T09:33:00.000-07:00

518 West Las Tunas Drive
San Gabriel, CA 91776
(626) 289-5998

It isn't often that a Chinese restaurant starts in Orange County and expands to the SGV so it stands to reason that Newport Seafood must be something special. Despite having moved to a larger space, the restaurant is perpetually packed and we had to wait about 40 minutes for one of the semi-private booths to open up.

Baked Shrimp with Salt and Pepper
The salt and pepper shrimp was provided in lieu of the baked crab which was apparently sold out. Though the flavor was enjoyable the shrimp was overcooked making the texture dry and rubbery; a poor substitution for the crab that we were expecting.

Crab Meat & Fish Maw Soup
Fish maw is a popular ingredient in high-end Chinese soups. The jelly like consistency and slight umami sapor of the swim bladder complimenting the crab's sweet salinity.

Beef Loc Lac (French Style)
This was probably the best course of the night and be best French-style beef that I've had. The dish isn't leaps and bounds above its peers, but the delectably tender texture and succulent contrast of the fresh tomatoes and onions do serve to set the dish apart. J Gold declares this the best in SGV and I find myself inclined to agree.

Newport Special Lobster
Without a doubt, the special lobster is the dish that put Newport Seafood on the map. My first time here, I was a bit underwhelmed as the lobster tasted under seasoned. Things were markedly better this time around, the snappy lobster offered a deep wok fired sapor heightened by a robust garlic and spice tinged sauce.

Yang Chow Fried Rice
Like the French-style beef, the fried rice exemplifies what sets Newport apart from its competitors. In most respects, the dish is similar to its counterpart at the innumerable other Chinese restaurants that dot the SGV, but when it comes down to the flavor and the subtle nuances this just feels more on point.

Sea Cucumber with Black Mushroom
In my family, the eldest relative always goes first when a new dish is brought to the table. Occasionally this means the kids are lift with scraps which happened to be the case here. I was able to taste the mixed vegetables that accompanied the sea cucumber but I hesitate to judge a dish without tasting the key ingredient. Though perhaps I should let the absence of sea cucumber speak for itself.

Steamed Whole Fish
A fairly textbook steamed fish, the mild white fish is completely dependent on the sauce for flavor. Ever since I was a little kid I was happy to forgo the fish in favor of eating a big bowl of rice bathed in the sauce.

Kong Pao Shrimp Chicken & Beef
I always feel a bit embarrassed having Kung Pao anything at a Chinese restaurant. Discomfort aside, there was something addictive about this dish and I noticed my cousins returning for more time and again.

Sauteed Broccoli
I was disappointed that my father opted for the broccoli, as the pea shoots were one of the highlights of my previous visit. The broccoli was fairly typical, with a monolithic bitterness, rather than the grassy levity of the shoots.

Clam with Spicy Hot Sauce
The clams were another of the night's stars, with an immensely satisfying contrast between the herbaceous basil and bitter salinity of the clams. After we polished off the clams, I was again compelled to get some rice and slather it with spoonfuls of the basil and chili gravy.

Peking Style Pork Chop
The pork chop itself was nicely cooked, with a light batter and moist interior, I never cared for sweet and sour dishes and the sticky saccharine sauce here didn't do anything to change that opinion.

Oranges
These sliced oranges hardly merit being called a dessert but their sweet juice was a nice way to wash down the salt and oil from the meal.

My first visit time here was enjoyable but underwhelming; the lobster in particular didn't live up to the hype. The food felt a bit stronger this time around and I was able to see some flashes that help separate Newport from the pack.

Foie Gras Dinner @ Animal - 10/15/2011

2011-10-15T11:21:00.000-07:00

435 North Fairfax Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90048
(323) 782-9225

Eight courses of foie gras?!? This meal should come with its own surgeon's general warning. As much as I love foie gras I have to admit I was a bit concerned with eating eight courses of the stuff. The impetus behind the meal is the upcoming ban on the production and sale of foie gras which takes effect July 2012. Lefebvre, Dotolo, and Shook wanted to call attention the law and celebrate the ingredient they so love working with.

Personally I suspect the trio also enjoyed tweaking the noses of the foie protesters who have harassed diners outside numerous restaurants; it was certainly an added bonus for me. I expected the protesters to be out in force when I arrived, but there were surprisingly few for a dinner that incorporates foie gras into every dish.

01: marble foie gras terrine - prosciutto, fennel, yogurt, honey, bruleed figs
2002 Brut, Grand Cru Godmé, Verzenay
First up was a relatively conventional preparation of foie gras, a marbled terrine. Ludo sandwiched thin layers of proscuitto and fig between thick creamy slabs of terrine giving the liver a seamless salty sweet interplay. I also appreciated the contrast between the bitter char of the toast with the floral saccharinity of the honey as well as the herbal tang of the marinated fennel all of which added another layer of complexity and flavor to the dish.

02: foie gras crudo - dates, lemon confit, black ash brioche, mushrooms
2008 Mas Jullien, Vin de Pays de l'Herault
The second dish was another Ludo creation, that he first debuted at 7.0. The foie is almost a secondary element a buttery velvety whisper on the tongue that elevates and augments the delicate flavors surrounding it. Again a cerebral and nuanced dish except for the lemon confit which added a potent burst of concentrated citrus that I quite enjoyed but overwhelmed the dish in large quantities.

03: smoked foie gras - veal tongue, pumpernickel, crab apple
2007 Riesling, Kirchspeil, Grosses Gewachs, Keller
After two dishes from Ludo, it was time for the Animal boys to show their stuff. The veal tongue easily stole the show here: deliciously slick with a satisfying pastrami-like sapor tempered by the sweet tang of the crab apple relish. The quinelle of liver added a palpable sense of smoke tinged while the sauce delivered a spicy mustard bite taken together with the veal reminded me of a deconstructed hot dog.

04: foie gras ssam - herbs, peanuts, green curry, bib lettuce, plum char siu
2009 Gewurztraminer, Grand Cru Kaefferkopf, Alsace
Ssam literally means wrapped in Korean, but this lettuce wrap had more of a Vietnamese flavor to it thanks to the accompanying herbs. The foie was a seared preparation, topped with peanuts and resting atop a lemongrass tinged curry. The gravity of the foie is dramatically diminished by the vegetables leaving behind a satisfying sense of richness coupled with a savory tinge from the fried onions. I didn't see the char siu anywhere but this didn't need it. The pleasing juxtaposition of heavy and light ingredients made this my favorite for the night.

05: steamed foie gras - cabbage, mustard ice cream, duck fat potato, juniper berries
1999 Sauternes, Cru D'Arche-Pugneau
Ludo's previous incarnation of steamed foie still stands as one of my favorites of all time. This recaptured some of the magic coupling the slick decadent liver with the enveloping bitter crunch of the cabbage. Cabbage and foie is a classic pairing that has fallen out of favor but I feel it offers so much more versatility than sweeter preparations. With both this dish and the crudo, Ludo clearly shows of a level of control and complexity often overlooked when preparing foie.

06: roasted foie gras - cheeseburger flavors, benton's bacon
Hopf Helle Weisse
If anyone could make a foie gras taste like a burger, it would be the two dudes. The condiments certainly gave the impression of a burger, particularly the sweet pickles and pimento cheese. I appreciated what the chef was trying to do with this course but it didn't scream burger to me the way the smoked foie reminded me of a hot dog.

07: liquid foie gras agnolotti - corn, black truffle
2003 Barolo, 'Rocche dei Brovia,' Brovia
The last course consisted of five agnolotti stuffed with a concoction of sweet corn and foie then topped with shaved black truffles. The sweetness of the corn and earthy aroma of the black truffle are immediately apparent. The foie is more of a supporting element, lending a savory twang to counter the weight of the other two flavors.

08: brownie sundae - foie gras chantilly, caramel, vanilla ice cream
Noval 20 year tawny port
The foie here was almost invisible, and even tasting the chantilly cream on its own, I got more of a salted caramel essence than the savory offal kick I was expecting. Regardless this was a delicious dessert, sweet, creamy and satisfying I was stuffed but I would have been happy to put down another one of these.

Despite knowing the prowess of Ludo and the Two Dudes, I must admit that I approached this meal with some trepidation. Would the food be too heavy? Would I need a triple bypass in the morning? Happily neither of these happened. This meal showed a surprising amount of finesse while celebrating the versatility of this beautiful ingredient. With only two nights, this is certainly a high-demand event and if you couldn't get a reservation but still want to check it out, I recommend showing up early, and trying to score a seat at the bar.

The French Laundry - 08/29/2011

2011-10-12T22:57:00.000-07:00

6640 Washington Street
Yountville, CA 94599
(707) 944-2380

A temple of gastronomy. A culinary Mecca. Of course I am referring to The French Laundry. My first trip here still stands out as one of my single most memorable dining experiences of my life. I was actually fortunate enough to visit the restaurant again this year on Valentines Day and though I wouldn't normally revisit a restaurant of this caliber so quickly when someone offers to pay its hard to turn down.

This time around we booked the private dining room, which takes reservations up to a year in advance. I highly recommend this route to anyone who can fill a table and has a flexible travel schedule as it is much easier than trying to fight through the normal reservation line.

CANAPE 01: GOUGERES
Though I've had many a gouger, French Laundry's have consistently ranked among the top and this was perhaps the best one yet. The dainty little puff burst upon mastication releasing a veritable flood of warm cheesy Mornay that left me craving more.

CANAPE 02: SALMON TARTARE CONE
Like the gougeres, the salmon tartare cones always preface the main meal. The salmon is so finely minced it takes on an almost creamy consistency nice against the buttery richness and crunch of the sesame tuile.

01: "OYSTERS AND PEARLS" - "Sabayon" of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and White Sturgeon Caviar
Gaston Chiquet, Blanc de Blancs d'Ay, Grand Cru MV
As much as I harp on the importance of contrast and balance, pure unadulterated decadence has its place as well. Raw, the oysters have a distinct minerality, but butter poaching them strips off the more assertive flavors while leaving the salinity intact. The heady richness of the "sabayon" adds a luxurious heft while the caviar ratchets up the salinity of the dish. At once simple in its focus yet elegant in its execution, one of my companions declared that had the meal ended after this course he still would have left happy.

02: WHITE TRUFFLE CUSTARD - Veal Ragout with Black Truffle and Chip with Chive
Gaston Chiquet, Blanc de Blancs d'Ay, Grand Cru MV
I asked about this during my visit in February and was told that the course was available only by request. I had this my during my first visit years ago and still think about the course from time to time. This time around the fragrant aroma of truffle was diminished by a dark savory weight from the veal.

03: SALAD OF FRENCH LAUNDRY GARDEN BEETS - Hass Avocado, Compressed Cucumber, Red Ribben Sorrel and Yuzu "Gastrique"
Weegmuller Riesling, "Haardter Herzog," Kabinett, Pfalz 2007
As much as I dislike beets I was curious to see what kitchen could do with them. In the end I'd say the dish was a moderate success, the typical cloying sweetness is balanced nicely by the floral sweetness of the yuzu, but texturally the beets were pretty much unchanged, dense, soft, and blunt.

04: "PB&J" - Moulard Duck "Foie Gras," Peanut "Génoise," Concord Grape Gelée, Celery Branch and Petite Sirah Reduction
Oremus, Tokaji Aszú, 5 Puttonyos, Tokaj 2002
The foie gras was a supplement to the regular meal and always well worth the additional cost. Laundry typically serves their foie cold, usually some sort of torchon preparation though our waiter did mention a warm preparation was available upon request. The liver has a consistency akin to soft butter or in this case a creamy peanut butter. The Concord grape gelée offers a nuanced sweetness while the celery gives the dish a magnificent crunch and contrasting bitter tinge.

05: COLUMBIA RIVER STURGEON "EN PERSILLADE" - "Ragoût" of Summer Pole Beans, Frisée, and Dijon Mustard Emulsion
Vincent Girardin, Puligny-Montrachet, "Les Folatières," Burgundy, 1er Cru 2007
The sturgeon was the one course that missed the mark for me. Though the fish was cooked perfectly giving it a pleasing dense flakiness, but in terms of taste it was just boring. The beans were equally satisfying texturally but didn't add much flavor-wise. A more savory or earthy accompaniment would have worked better to highlight the delicate flavors of the fish.

05: SWEET BUTTER-POACHED MAINE LOBSTER TAIL - Bluefoot Mushrooms, Marble Potatoes, Red Radish, Parsley and Padrón Pepper "Vierge"
Lopez de Heredia, "Viña Gravonia," Blanco, Rioja 2001
Of the three butter poached lobster preparations I've had at the French Laundry, this was the most traditional and cohesive of the bunch. As always, the lobster tail remains the star of the show; its decadent buttery sweetness and taut snappy crunch are simply unmatched. The potatoes and radish give the dish a satisfying complexity while the musky salinity of the fungi heightens the lobster's natural brine.

06: DEVIL'S GULCH RANCH RABBIT SIRLOIN - Baby Corn, Mission Fig, Swiss Chard, and Black Truffle Sauce
Arnot-Roberts, Trousseau, "Luchsinger Vineyard," Clear Lake 2010
The rabbit is lissome and delicate yet immensely flavorful while the black truffle sauce is luxuriously weighty yet restrained enough to compliment the meat rather than overshadow it. The accompaniments of corn and fig are profoundly sweet while the chard provides a verdant bitter counterpoint. The resulting combination is nothing less than refinement personified.

07: MARCHO FARM NATURE-FED VEAL - "Lasagne de Langue de Veau," Toybox Tomatoes, Globe Artichoke, Romaine Lettuce and Castelmango "Mousseline"
Tenuta Friggiali, Brunello di Montalcino, "Donna Olga," Tuscany, 2004
The veal's sheer profundity and depth of flavor coupled with its exquisite texture was nothing short of magnificent. The lasagna of veal tongue provided complex nuances of a robust and slightly piquant salinity while the verdant succulence of the lettuce and sharp zing of the tomatoes added a contrasting levity to th emeat. I used to wonder what all the hubbub about veal was; leave it to Keller and his crew to open my eyes.

08: "TOMME DE BREBIS" - Bacon-Onion Marmalade, Cipollini Onion, Jacobsen's Farm Apples and Watercress
Failla, Syrah, "Estate," Sonoma Coast
The Tomme de Brebis was a fairly innocuous and approachable cheese, with a middling texture and subtle undercurrent of sharpness that highlighted the interplay of the vibrant bacon-onion marmalade with the more restrained apple and watercress.

09: YELLOW WATERMELON SORBET - Basil-Honey and Saba Vinegar
The watermelon sorbet served as a wonderful palate cleanser and bridge between the savory and sweet courses; the summery freshness and sweet succulence of the melon is augmented by the dark viscous sweetness of the Saba.

10: CARAMÉLIA CHOCOLATE "CRÈMEAUX" - Gros Michel Banana, Candied Pine Nuts, "Dentelle" and Salted Popcorn Ice Cream
Château Rieussec, 1er Cru Classé, Sauternes 1989
The final documented course was a decadent chocolate shot through with intensely sweet caramel. The saccharine weight of the chocolate is masterfully countervailed by the salty punch of the popcorn ice cream. A masterful use of savory and sweet elements that left me hungering for more.

11: "COFFEE AND DOUGHNUTS" - Espresso Semifreddo and Sugar Doughnut Holes
No meal at The French Laundry would be complete without Keller's signature "Coffee and Doughnuts." The combination is almost laughably simple, pairing airy beignets (read: donut holes) with an espresso semifreddo (a.k.a: coffee ice cream), but despite its simple nature this dessert never fails to please.

MIGNARDISES 01: HOUSE-MADE CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES
Completing the meal was a sextet of chocolates: ginger & rum, PB&J, bing cherry, olive oil, hazelnut crunch, and meyer lemon. I sampled all six of mine and they were superb. That these chocolates compare favorably with those sold at any gourmet chocolatier speaks volumes about the kitchen's attention to detail in all that they do.

MIGNARDISES 02: CHOCOLATE COVERED MACADAMIA NUTS
Accompanying the chocolates was a bowl of macadamia nuts covered in hard caramel. The addictive sweet crunch and delightfully toasty char of the nuts kept me eating these long after I was full.

Chef Hollingsworth wasn't working Monday, but Executive Sous Chef Philip Tessier was a very able surrogate. After helping Keller open Per Se, Tessier was tapped to lead the kitchen at Bouchon and earlier this year made the move to the kitchen at French Laundry.

French Laundry was the capstone to a modernist-heavy dining trip that featured Atelier Crenn, Saison, and Baumé,. French Laundry may seem dated by comparison but in practice the restaurant is just as captivating despite its decision to eschew more avant-garde techniques. What the kitchen does excel at is creating food that tastes damn good. The lobster and veal in particular were among the best I'd ever eaten. Performing at such a high level is no mean feat and to do it for over 15 years speaks to an unwavering meticulousness and relentless demand for perfection that borders on obsession. There aren't many restaurants where I expect my next experience to be as good or better than the last, but The French Laundry is certainly one of them.

San Shi Go - 09/07/2011

2011-10-06T20:24:00.000-07:00

205 Main Street
Newport Beach, CA 92661
(949) 673-3724

Recently I've made a point to visit all of Orange County's top sushi restaurants and San Shi Go was the last on the list. I think the big reason for the delay was that part of me still couldn't believe all the rave reviews. Location aside, the restaurant was part of a small chain and the owner didn't actually work at the Newport outpost. More concerning though was the menu which offered a fairly typical selection of nigiri, rolls, and and appetizers.

Uni Martini - Poached Egg, Chilled Dashi
When we sat down our itamae asked for a brief list of our likes & dislikes and based on our response offered us an uni martini before diving into the nigiri. The generous dollops of urchin roe were immensely fresh and bursting with sweet creamy goodness. The dashi added a pleasing savoriness to balance the sweetness of the uni while the poached egg yolk gave the broth a pleasing viscosity. A beautiful dish all around and not to be missed by any uni lover.

Madai - Snapper
The sushi service started off with a fittingly mild piece of snapper, the texture was a bit softer than normal but the compliments of salt and yuzu were perfect for enhancing the light flavor of the fish.

Hirame - Halibut
Next up was halibut topped with a slice of summer truffle. The fish itself is fleshy and mild, the perfect platform for the pungent fragrance of the truffle.

Engawa - Halibut Adductor Muscle
Engawa refers to the muscle that controls the halibut's dorsal fin. I've only had this a handful of times and always at excellent restaurants so I took its presence here as a good sign. Texturally, engawa is quite different from hirame, with a denser weight and muscular snappiness. Daisuke torched the muscle giving it a deliciously smoky that he complimented with fresh shiso and an enticing spice from the yuzu kocho.

Maguro - Bluefin Tuna
Daisuke mentioned we were in for a treat, the bluefin arrived earlier in the week and the restaurant was almost sold out. The color was a beautiful deep red while the flavor was the prototypical combination of clean sweet water and an iron tang.

Zuke - Marinated Tuna
Next up was a marinated tuna wrapped in kelp. The exterior seemed almost seared and the marinade seemed to leech some of the water out of the fish. The result was a hardier and richer tuna, with a distinct sweetness from the marinade.

Toro - Fatty Bluefin Tuna
Next we moved onto raw toro and though the fish appeared a bit flyblown the texture and flavor were spot on; pure oily bliss!

Seared Toro - Seared Fatty Bluefin Tuna
The tour of tuna concluded with a beautifully seared toro, just as rich and buttery as the raw toro, the sear adds an lightly bitter char; that extra layer of flavor made this my favorite of the quartet.

Hamachi - Yellowtail
Though our itamae referred to this as hamachi, its color, texture, and flavor was more like yellowtail belly. The fish had a unctuous toothsomeness and correspondingly forceful oiliness. This was substantially more flavorful than a typical yellowtail and one of my favorite pieces of the night.

Inada - Baby Yellowtail
Like with the tuna, Daisuke presented three variations of yellowtail back to back so we could better appreciate the subtle differences between them. The inada was milder than the previous piece and felt slightly firmer,

Kanpachi - Amberjack
The third in the troika of yellowtail was a Kanpachi. Positively austere compared to the previous two the fish had a lean snappiness and a cleaner less oily essence.

Takabe & Aji - Yellow Stripe Butter Fish & Spanish Mackerel
This was my first experience with Takabe and Daisuke referred to it as a "premium mackerel." The fish was immensely tender, but possessed a concentrated oiliness similar to that of a mackerel. I appreciated having the aji there for comparison, and I actually preferred the firmer texture of the mackerel to the Takabe.

Sake - Copper River Sockeye Salmon
I've never appreciated premium salmon, the fish is much leaner than the typical farm-raised variety with a slight minerality that I don't care for.

Sakura-ni - Simmered Octopus
This was a departure from the typical sushi style octopus. The simmered tentacle is wonderfully soft and meaty, with a pervasive smokiness that feels reminiscent of a Western preparation.

Amaebi - Sweet Shrimp
The amaebi was freshly killed in front of us and both the texture and flavor were fairly typical, that is to say delicious.

Sanma - Pike Mackerel
I've only had Sanma once before and that was at Urasawa. Beneath the shimmery silver skin lies a layer of creamy white fat which gives the fish a profound flavor perfect with the almost jellied texture of the fish itself.

Binnaga - Albacore
I always like raw albacore and this was a cut from the fish's belly. While the texture of the fish was marvelous, the sause tasted overwhelmingly of garlic, a shame not to let the fish stand on its own.

Negi-Toro - Fatty Tuna Hand Roll
At this point Daisuke asked if I wanted anything else and I told him to surprise me. He presented me with a negi-toro roll which contrasts the succulent lavishness of the fish with the crunchy tang of pickled radish, onion, and leeks.

Anago - Sea Eel
The final fish for the night was a sliver sea eel. Rather than drown the fish in sauce, Daisuke only applied a few drops striking an effective balance with the gentle brine of the eel itself.

Red Miso Soup
Though I prefer my amaebi head fried, our chef recommended that we go with the miso soup. The red miso was substantially darker and more robust while the head gave it a delightful saline tinge.

Tamago - Egg with ume shiso
For their tamago, San Shi Go offers an unconventional preparation, serving it with plum and shiso to help break up the monolithic stature of the egg.

House-made Ice Cream - Marscarpone, Black Sesame
Asian restaurants often skimp when it comes to desserts, but Daisuke told us that we were in for a treat and he was absolutely correct. The black sesame was immensely rich with a resonant purity of flavor while the marscarpone was smooth with a sweetness reminiscent of condensed milk.

Thankfully most of my concerns about San-Shi-Go proved to be unfounded. The quality of the fish is second to none, and while most of the guests favored the restaurants a la carte roll offerings, I was pleasantly surprised to find the omakase fell along very traditional lines. The food at San Shi Go easily stands up to other Orange County heavyweights though the price is a touch higher with the omakase running about $75 per person. If you are willing to pay the Newport premium, San Shi Go is definitely worth your time.

Scarpetta 09/22/2011

2011-10-02T22:07:00.000-07:00

225 N Canon Drive
Beverly Hills, CA 90210
(310) 860-7970

Though I had an opportunity to visit Scarpetta on opening night, I had just come back from 10 straight nights of fine dining in DC and neither my wallet nor my stomach could handle another excessive dinner. Still feedback from my friends (particularly KevinEats who called this the best Italian meal of his life) ensured that I would visit Scarpetta at some point.

CREAMY POLENTA - fricasse of truffled mushrooms
Possessing a smooth velvety texture and an undercurrent of sweet corn, the polenta certainly lives up to its name. The polenta would have been a bit monolithic on its own, but the weight is beautifully offset by the robust savor of the mushroom fricasse and the accompanying concentrated dark earthiness of the gravy.

RAW YELLOWTAIL - olio de zenzero & pickled red onion
The yellowtail was typically supple and lush, but the typically clean flavor was substantially augmented by the ginger oil. I found the forceful salinity of the fish quite enjoyable, but I understand how my companion found it overly strong.

TUNA "SUSCI" - marinated vegetables & preserved truffles
This was even better than the yellowtail and the best tuna crudo I've ever had. Tuna is such a mild fish that it is easily overwhelmed but despite the expressive interplay between the tangy vegetables and heady truffles, the clean flavor of the fish managed to come through.

ROASTED SEA SCALLOPS - charred asparagus puree, agro dolce onions, chanterelles & truffle emulsion
This was probably my favorite course of the night. The scallops are cooked perfectly with a golden brown exterior enveloping a pink almost creamy interior. The earthy essence of the mushrooms played well with the scallops while interplay between the caramelized sweetness of the onion and the bitter grassiness of the asparagus raised the dish to even greater heights.

SPAGHETTI - tomato & basil
The humble spaghetti is Conant's signature dish and the rave reviews surrounding this course were what brought me to Scarpetta in the first place. Though the sauce is a mix of tomato and basil that certainly doesn't lack for flavor: bright and sweet with an aromatic vibrancy. The noodles are equally impressive with a dense yet supple texture that exudes a comforting rusticity. The dish is by no means complex but its simplicity makes it easy to appreciate the perfection inherent in of every facet of this pasta.

BLACK LOBSTER TAGLIOLINI - lobster & basil breadcrumbs
I had a hard time deciding between the this and the pasta with summer truffles but picked the lobster tagliolini based on the recommendation of our waiter. This was a good choice, compared to the focused simplicity of the spaghetti, this was substantially more complex. The pasta itself is imbued with a salinity thanks to the coating of squid ink, the perfect accompaniment to the bits of tender lobster. Again the flavors of tomato and basil are present, but subservient to the the brine of the lobster and noodles themselves.

PUREE OF CHILLED PEA SOUP - crab, riesling & tarragon
This course was a failure on many fronts. First, it was somehow left off our order, but to our waiter's credit, when we informed him that we hadn't received the dish yet he rushed the order through. Unfortunately, in the kitchen's haste they screwed the soup up and instead of a creamy soup, we got a thin watery mess. When I mentioned this to our waiter he was quick to take it off the bill. Though I was disappointed by the course, I understand accidents happen and the staff did their best once the issue was brought to their attention.

VANILLA CARAMEL BUDINO - gianduja chocolate sable cookies
For dessert we decided to share a caramel budino. The sweetness of the decadent pudding is quite restrained and further balanced by a liberal sprinkling of salt. The chocolate cookies and crunchy bits atop the budino served to add textural contrast to the thick creamy body of the pudding itself

I had high expectations for Scarpetta, and for the most part the restaurant met them. The food has the humble rusticity characteristic of Italian fare, but presented with contemporary grace and polish. I certainly enjoyed my time and wouldn't mind a repeat visit to sample more of their hand-made pastas and some of the heavier entrees.

Sushi Shibucho - 08/14/2011

2011-09-26T18:52:00.000-07:00

590 W 19th Street
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
(949) 642-2677

After two strong experiences at Ikko and Nana-san I was inspired to hit up more of Orange County's top spots. I'd actually been to Sushi Shibucho a few years back but left disappointed with my experience. At the time, I was still learning about sushi and felt uncomfortable sitting at the bar. I opted for having the omakase and was disappointed to see a large platter of tired looking sushi brought to the table. Though I was disappointed by the experience, enough time has passed for me to give the restaurant another chance.

Sushi Shibucho can be considered the spiritual successor to Shibucho in Los Angeles. Opened by Sakae Shibutani in 1976, the original Shibucho was arguably the first true sushi restaurant in Los Angeles. Eventually Shibutani sold the restaurant to Shige Kudo a former employee who still runs the restaurant today. The OC outpost of Sushi Shibucho is run by Sakae's and his son, Naga, who learned the art of sushi from his father.

Amuse: Marinated Bamboo and Tofu
Our meal started with a small bowl of marinated bamboo and tofu. The tofu was a welcome surprise, saturated with a savory sweet broth giving the duet a pleasing heft.

01: Tai - Snapper
We were presented with two pieces of snapper, one came seasoned while we were told to take the other with soy. The fish lived up to its name presenting a firm pliant texture set off perfectly by the warm rice. As for flavor the traditional preparation was enjoyable, but I preferred the expansive flavors of the one seasoned with yuzu kocho and rock salt.

02: Maguro - Tuna
Cool and fleshy, the clean simplicity of the fish contrasted beautifully with the potent sting of the wasabi.

03: Toro - Fatty Tuna
A textbook toro, disconcerting red spots aside, the fish was tender and marbled to the point of having an almost jellied consistency coupled with an appropriately weighty oily flavor profile.

04: Aoyagi - Orange Clam
A fairly subdued example of orange clam, the shellfish's sweetness is balanced by an earthy brine.

05: Aji - Spanish Mackerel
Aji is always one of the more expressive sushi fishes, the potent oily richness is tempered by a generous topping of fresh scallion and grated ginger.

06: Zuwaigani - Snow Crab
Next up was an extremely unconventional nigiri, the crab is surprisingly delicate with the wasabi running rampant until the finish when the crab's sweetness comes to the fore.

07: Kinki - Rockfish
Another rare fish, Kinki or rockfish is reminiscent of a snapper, with the same mild flavor but a bit more vigorous snap.

08: Kanpachi - Amberjack
Amberjack can run the gamut texturally from lean and austere to creamy and unctuous and this definitely leaned toward the latter with a nuanced oily flavor to boot.

09: Uni - Sea Urchin
Nice to see the uni outside of a gunkan-maki, the scintillating sweetness of the urchin roe comes through completely unfettered by any distraction from the nori wrapper.

10: Binnaga - Albacore
Aside from Sushi Wasabi, this is the only other place in Orange County where I recall having raw albacore. The fish itself was fairly mild but the topping of seasoned daikon lent the albacore an intense savory-sweetness.

11: Sujiko - Salmon Roe
This was a completely new style of sushi, unlike the more common ikura, the roe is marinated in the egg sack concentrating the flavor leading to a more severe savoriness and viscous almost slimy texture, definitely not for the faint of heart.

12: Sake - Salmon
We followed the salmon eggs with the adult version of the fish; lush and simple with a striated firmness.

13: Anago - Sea Eel
This is one of the few instances where I recall having eel without a thick layer of glaze. Personally, I found the sparse dusting of sea salt was quite effective at bringing out the natural salinity of the eel.

14: Tai Kobujime - Kelp-marinated Snapper
We went back to snapper, but this time one wrapped in kelp which accentuated the fish's natural flavor while simultaneously tenderizing it.

15: Ika - Squid
Despite being finely sliced to tenderize the flesh, but the squid did not yield the typical creaminess one usually gets with ika.

16: Saba - Mackerel
One of the stronger saba pieces, the fish has an almost toro-like consistency and flavor, a nice compliment to the fish's oiliness.

17: Hokkigai - Surf Clam
I've always enjoyed the texture of surf clam, paradoxically firm yet squishy though I found this to be noticeably more bitter than I was expecting.

18: Kanpyo Maki & Ume Shiso Maki
We were given a pair of rolls to aid digestion. The kampyo was delightfully crunchy with a flavor reminiscent of a sweet pickled radish. The ume shiso was more complex, marrying the fragrant mint with a piquant plum paste.

19: Tamago - Egg
I've never been crazy about tamago, as the eggy funk can be a bit off-putting after so much fish. This was a more nuanced preparation that I quite enjoyed.

20: Marinated Cucumber and Daikon
The meal finished with marinated daikon and cucumber to cleanse the palate of any lingering fishiness.

Though I've always heard stories about sitting at the sushi bar versus sitting at a table, I've never experienced such drastically different experiences myself. My first experience, ordering omakase at a table, left me scratching my head at how Shibucho could be in the running for best sushi in Orange County. After having Naga-san take care of us at the bar, I no longer wonder. If you are looking for fresh, high-quality, no frills sushi then look no further than Shibucho.

ink - 09/21/2011

2011-09-22T00:44:00.000-07:00

8360 Melrose Ave.
Los Angeles, ca 90069
(323) 651-5866

It is no exaggeration to say I've never been more excited for a restaurant opening than I am for tonight's opening of ink by Michael Voltaggio. Considering the first month's reservations were completely booked within an hour, I'm not the only one who feels this way. When he left The Langham in August 2010, Voltaggio optimistically expected to open his new restaurant before the year ended. A myriad of delays, including a lawsuit, delayed the opening for months, but today the waiting comes to an end. Built on the bones of the former Hamasaku, ink features a 60 seat dining room, a 10-seat bar for walk-ins and a private dining room that may be the future home of Voltaggio's omakase menu.

I first encountered the Top Chef Season 6 winner at The Bazaar, where he was Chef de Cuisine in charge of executing Jose Andres' contemporary tapas menu. Prior to coming to Los Angeles, Voltaggio rose through the ranks at The Greenbrier in West Virginia and headed Charlie Palmer's Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg. As much as I enjoyed my later meals at The Bazaar and Saam, Voltaggio truly came into his at The Langham; breathing new life into the venerable but staid Dining Room. During the eleven months Voltaggio spent in Pasadena he blew my mind with two legendary meals at The Dining Room, firmly establishing himself as the most exciting chef in LA.

tequila - serrano, lime, grapefruit, soda
Tequila was made to pair with citrus and spice, and this drink had the form but lacked the polish. I could taste all the flavors, but the drink felt diluted, I kept hoping for a bit more sharpness and focus.

gin - dolin dry vermouth, green chartreuse, orange zest
This was Devon's take on a classic gin martini. Exceedingly smooth, this drink went down like liquid velvet, the citrus aromas of the orange zest complimenting the herbaceousness of the vermouth and chartreuse.

mezcal - lemon, ginger, clover honey, angostura bitters
This was my favorite of the opening trio, exceedingly woody and petrol-y on the nose, the flavors continue on the palate but with an herbal spice thanks to the ginger and clover honey. I especially appreciated the forcefulness of this drink after the tequila

blue prawns - green papaya, finger lime, shrimp cracker
The meal opened on a high note. The citrus on the green papaya is simply electric, a screaming acidic counterpoint to the sedate creamy sweetness of the coconut and I haven't even gotten to the prawn yet. The shrimp provides a steady dose of salinity to the dish that helps ground the more expressive elements on the plate.

hamachi - green apple, aged soy, ginger ice
Though hamachi is a fairly mild fish, the apple actually accentuated the fish's oiliness while the soy and ginger ice gave the dish a comfortingly familiar feel reminiscent of a piece of nigiri.

bay scallops - cream of dehydrated potato, potato skins, buttermilk-shellfish broth
My big concern with such small scallops is cook time, it is all to easy to leave these dry and overcooked and while these were fairly moist, still a touch firmer than I'd like. Still I appreciated the seamless interplay between the meaty scallops and the creamy heft of the potato.

dungeness crab - toast, tarragon mayo, celery, house made hot sauce
This was one of the stronger courses of the night, with the perfect oily richness to compliment the sweetness of the crab. The house made hot sauce reminded me of a tempered Siracha, and complimented the crab beautifully while the celery help balance some of the fried sapor.

gin - house tonic/lavender tonic
I didn't realize there were two choices of tonic, or I would have gone for the lavender. Like the tequila, I found the gin and house tonic to be a bit diluted for my tastes. The flavors were there, they just needed to be stronger.

bourbon - pineapple, anise
Definitely on the sweet side for a bourbon drink, I got a potent tropical sweetness tinged with a spicy bitter edge with the barest hint of the bourbon.

rum - lime, house falernum
Our waiter said this was his favorite drink and he was spot on. An overarching tropical sweetness precedes a cleansing citrus bite and the weight of the rum.

young turnips and radishes - coffee-cardamom soil, vadouvan, frozen yogurt, socca
This might be the best turnip dish I've ever had. The bitter vegetal succulence of the turnips contrasts perfectly with the tart frozen yogurt. The fried chickpea cake adds sufficient savoriness while the soil provides a delightfully earthy emphasis to the dish.

corned beef - appenzeller churro, red onion, pastrami syrup
This might be my favorite dish of the night. The churro could be a dish in its own right, crunchy and savory with just a hint of cheesy sharpness to compliment the peppery bite of the meat. The resounding tang of the pickled red onions cuts right through the cheese and meat leaving a lingering piquant sweetness on the palate.

brass monkey - olde english, oj
Though it didn't come in the 40oz bottle, this was a combination of malt liquor and orange juice, think of this as a ghetto screwdriver.

octopus - buttered popcorn, piquillo pepper, spinach
This was one of the few courses that made it through almost unscathed from The Dining Room. As much as I liked it back then, the dish felt more refined this time around. The octopus was more complex and nuanced texturally while I thought the piquillo stood out a bit more against the buttery heft of the popcorn.

sea bass - egg yolk, caper, romanesco, black olive oil
A simply beautiful sea bass, the alabaster flesh is flaky and tender while the mild flavor is complimented by a slate of tart accoutrements highlighted bits of tart grapefruit. Rounding out the dish is the crisp fried skin of the bass, unabashedly salty with a almost caramelized sweetness to it.

seaweed mashed potatoes - sea grass, sea beans
A surprisingly simple yet effective course, the potatoes exude a buttery richness balanced by an assertive umami-laced salinity .

spaghetti - giant squid, squash, hazelnut-ink pesto, piment d'espilette
Despite being called "spaghetti" there is actually no pasta in this dish. Instead the noodles are made of thinly sliced squid, giving them a snappy texture slightly north of al dente. I was surprised how well the pesto went with the pasta, its dull black hue belying its lively zest.

bourbon - antica, fernet jelnic, allspice dram
A derivative of the classic Manhattan, this was heavy but not overly alcoholic and a nice change from the lighter cocktails.

aperol - gin, cardamaro, orange
Definitely one of the more complex drinks of the night. The cloyingly fruity attack evolves into a much more nuanced finish with a delicate balance between fruit and herbal flavors.

black cod - red pepper dashi, shishito peppers, kelp pasta
This was a fairly unconventional preparation of black cod. Rather than smother the fish with sweetness, the dashi and kelp provide a rounded umami essence while the peppers add a jarring bitter contrast. I would have liked to see some more from this fish, perhaps a nice char to draw attention back to the star of the dish.

mushroom congee - duck tongues, duck egg, ash oil
I don't think I've ever seen congee in a fine-dining restaurant. The texture of the rice was spot on, and imbued with a rich earthy emphasis from the mushrooms. The duck tongue was a little lost on the dish, but I still enjoyed the hearty flavors of the porridge immensely.

vodka - lime, ginger, soda
This was a classic Moscow Mule right down to the copper cup. The tooth aching chill and effervescent ginger-lime spice were the perfect palate cleansers for the heavier dishes ahead.

quail - jordan almonds, charred orange and onion, sorrel cream
It has been a while since I've had a quail dish with this focus and depth of flavor. The meat fairly oozes with the savory essence of game bird and the exterior is accented with a light caramelized sweetness. Though I appreciated the juicy smokiness of the onion and the levity of the greens, the bird could have easily stood on its own.

veal cheek - red curry, coconut rice, nante carrots baked in salt
This is veal to the nth degree, the meat itself is so tender it is almost jellied in its consistency, no chewing required. The crispy rice was reminiscent of the popcorn we had earlier, but when combined with the curry and subtle undercurrents of lemongrass made for a very complete Thai-inspired flavor.

beef short rib - hearts of palm, smoked marrow toast, gremolata, ras al hanout
The beef short rib was one of my favorites from The Dining Room so I was glad to see it on the menu at ink. The meat is just as wonderful as I remember, smoky, meaty and tender but with a supple resistance. Unfortunately I was feeling a bit full by this time so the marrow felt a bit overwhelming, especially when taken with the already ponderous short rib.

Iberian pork - chanterelle mushrooms, mushroom chicharron, hazelnut "beans"
Apparently, this was a loin from Iberico de Bellota, arguably the most prized pork in the world. The meat itself is pure decadence with a subtle sweetness reminiscent of char siu. I especially appreciated the unabashed saltiness of the mushroom chicharron which helped highlight the savoriness of the Iberico. Another heavy course, I think I would have appreciated this more if I weren't so full.

goat cheese - ash, concord grape, arugula
This is easily one of the top five cheese presentations I've ever had. The cheese itself is beautifully nuanced, with a slightly gamy tang and mild blue-like flavor tinged with a creamy sweetness. The accompaniments run the gamut from savory to sweet to vegetal and despite the sheer complexity and number of moving parts taken together the dish just sings.

grapefruit curd - avocado, cilantro sorbet, charred maple-lime
The grapefruit curd was surprisingly subdued. I was expecting a mouth puckering acidity but the flavor as more of a gentle tang marked by a round sweetness. What did really get my attention was the cilantro; its fresh verdant savoriness fairly explodes on the palate.

apple - crème caramel, burnt wood ice cream, walnut
This was hands down the table favorite for desserts. The velvety disc of crème caramel almost reminded me of a foie gras terrine in terms of texture. The sweetness in conjunction with the complex smoky essence of the burnt wood ice cream was nothing short of wondrous.

chocolate - coffee, spice
The chocolate felt a touch simplistic especially after the complexity and grace of the two preceding desserts. I found this dessert a bit monolithic, with a pure note of coffee that resonated throughout.

scotch - lemon, apple cider, egg white, cinnamon
We were going to order this drink earlier but our waiter recommended we save it for dessert which proved to be a wise decision. The egg white foam gave this libation a satisfying thickness while the flavor reminded me of Christmas.

brandy - figs, mint, lemon
I was expecting the figs to dominate and they were apparent to start but as time wore on the mint and lemon played a bigger role.

Fourteen months and five days after leaving The Dining Room, Michael Voltaggio and crew are back in the kitchen where they belong. Voltaggio's trademark creativity and progressiveness are on full display, with an impressive slate of 20 well developed and well executed courses. Twice Chef Voltaggio remarked that he would have rather Kevin come a week later. I'm here to say the entire experience from the food to the service felt as if the restaurant had been open for months. Food was paced perfectly, with dishes coming one or two at a time and never more than a few minutes between courses. Compared to The Dining Room, ink is decidedly more accessible, exhibiting a whimsical joie de vivre that should make it an overnight sensation. Welcome back Michael, you were sorely missed! Now if I could only weasel my way into a seat at the omakase bar.

Gordon Ramsay at The London - 09/17/2011

2011-09-18T13:42:00.000-07:00

1020 N San Vicente Blvd
West Hollywood, CA 90069
(310) 358-7788

I first visited Gordon Ramsay on opening night back in May 2008 and while I wouldn't call the experience traumatic, I left severely disappointed. Part of this was due to my naivete, this was my first opening night meal and I was expecting a more celebratory air, instead the dining room felt positively moribund and Ramsay himself couldn't even be bothered to make an appearance. More important than the pomp and circumstance was the food, lacking the complexity and elegance of Ramsay's other eponymous restaurants, the casual Cal-Asian inspired menu felt unfocused and derivative.

From the reviews I read, the quality didn't improve with time and within a year of opening, Ramsay sold his stake in the West Hollywood property. Despite that, the restaurant has kept his name as he allegedly remains involved in the menu development. I was content having written the restaurant off, but my friend Eric, an avid Hell's Kitchen fan, was kind enough to treat me to private ten course tasting.

Remy Martin - Louis XIII
The aroma is sheer opulence, laden with a complex bouquet of floral notes, ripe candied fruits, oak, spice, and caramel. On the palate the honey and fruit are balanced by a deeply woody sherry-like essence. While this was undoubtedly the most complex spirit I've ever tasted, I don't think I had the palate to fully appreciate it. At $300 for 2 ounces it was nice to try but I doubt I'll be having this again anytime soon.

Canape: Marscarpone and Ricotta Mousse - Truffle Oil and Olive Oil
The meal kicked off with an creamy smooth cheese mousse, the subtle tang of the ricotta was balanced nicely by the aroma of the truffle oil and the toast points added a nice crunchy contrast to the mousse.

Amuse: Mushroom Cappuccino
Despite being a bit monolithic, the soup was enjoyable enough thanks to the textural element of the milk foam. Little did I know this simple soup would end up being one of the evening's better courses thanks to its lack of overt technical deficiencies.

01: Sea Scallop - Chorizo and Beet Risotto
This was probably the best course of the night. The scallop was nicely cooked but a bit overly salty. I was a bit dubious about the risotto, but both the chorizo and beet were quite restrained, leaving the scallop as the focus of the dish. The actual slice of sausage that accompanied the scallop was salty, overwhelming, and completely unnecessary.

02: Moulard Duck Foie Gras and French Toast - Blueberry Sauce
This looked like yet another overly sweet preparation of seared foie and that's exactly what it was. Heavy and rich, I would have liked less of the blueberry and more of the smoked vanilla to accompany the liver.

03: Compressed Summer Melon Salad - Grilled Kingfish and Cucumber Sorbet
The combination of seared fish and melon resulted in a clumsy jumble of sugar and fishiness that felt like a disconcerting cross between crudo and dessert. Despite being bland and watery this was far from the worst course of the night.

04: Veal Sweetbread and Chanterelle Mushroom Tortellini - Garlic Custard
The combination of sweetbreads and chanterelle had my mouth watering, turns out it was wasted effort as there was hardly any of either to drool over. I didn't particularly care for the blunt garlic custard but it was the only real source of flavor on the plate. Sad to see a conceptually promising offal course was reduced to an insipid pasta dish that wouldn't have passed muster at a Macaroni Grill.

05: Escallop of Wild Salmon - Belgian Endive, Celery Hearts, Soy Vinaigrette
It has been some time since I couldn't finish a course, but this was the single worst preparation of salmon that I've ever had. The fish was thinly sliced, overcooked and utterly bland. Inexplicably, the accompanying vegetables also came completely devoid of seasoning. The sole source of flavor was the soy vinaigrette, but the tiny smear wasn't even close to enough to appropriately season the plate.

06: Beef Wellington - Roasted Vegetables and Truffled Green Beans
Ramsay's Beef Wellington was the whole impetus behind this meal so I simply cannot fathom why we were served a dish that would have driven Ramsay to fits of apoplexy on Hell's Kitchen. Kevin's in particular was a travesty beyond words the meat in his two end pieces was charred to a gristly grey mass. At least, the restaurant offered to substitute a filet mignon for anyone who wanted a replacement.

Substitution: Filet Mignon - Onion Jam, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Sherry Wine
Despite being adequate at best, the steak was a marked improvement from the atrocity that was the Beef Wellington. Despite asking for my steak on the rare side, the temperature felt more like a medium and the onion jam was just cloyingly sweet.

07: Artisanal and Farmhouse Cheeses
"Cheeses" is something of a misnomer, as we were actually served a single cheese. The lone wedge of Manchego came paired with toasted nuts, bread, and a fig cake. A passable if pedestrian course, likely because the kitchen didn't actually have to do any cooking.

08: Carrot Ginger Granite
This was another of the evening's stronger courses. I enjoyed the interaction between the creamy spice of the ginger and the icy sweet carrot.

09: Millefeuille - Lemon-Blueberry
Finally something the entire table seemed to enjoy. The subdued lemon cream and tart blueberries deftly complimented the flaky buttery puff pastry.

Coffee & Mignardises
To cap a perfect comedy of errors, our server couldn't name all of the mignardises we were presented because they changed regularly.

Horrific, vile, obscene, I don't think there are enough epithets to convey the unmitigated disaster that is Gordon Ramsay at the London West Hollywood. Food wasn't the only problem with the meal, service was lackluster with the staff gave only the most cursory descriptions of the dishes. The wine director was even worse, refusing to pair wines for the food unless the entire table opted for the wine pairing. Oddly after promising to take care of us at the start of the meal, we didn't see him again until well past the midway point. As a final insult, the restaurant tacked on a mandatory 22% service for the "privilege" of sitting through one of the worst all-around dining experiences that I've ever had. I honestly think that I would have been kinder to the restaurant had they simply refused to serve us and save us 6 hours and $3155.

Saison - 08/27/2011

2011-09-14T20:26:00.000-07:00

2124 Folsom Street
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 828-7990

The man behind the stove at Saison is Chef Joshua Skenes. Chef Skenes has an impressive pedigree, earning perfect marks at the French Culinary Institute, while working under one of New York's top chefs, Jean Georges Vongerichtten. From there he spent two years working at Troquet, and Ambrosia on Huntington in Boston before heading West. At the tender age of 23 he landed the Executive Chef spot at Chez TJ, one of the South Bay's best restaurants. Michael Mina who came in for a meal was so impressed with the young chef that he tapped Skenes to help him open Stonehill Tavern in Dana Point. Following a 3-year stint as a culinary consultant, Skenes first started Saison in 2009.

Saison started life as a one-day a week pop-up built inside a rustic stable next to the Stable Cafe with a 4-course New American menu utilizing local seasonal ingredients (no surprise given saison is French for season). This dedication to the locavore movement goes beyond simply sourcing from local farms with the staff actually foraging for ingredients whenever possible.

The restaurant opened with the goal of providing a dining experience that celebrated fine dining techniques but without demanding the same formality from the diners. Since then Saison has shed its pop-up beginnings, expanding dinner service from 1 to 3 then to 5 nights a week. With that growth comes ambition and Skenes has expanded the menu to 8-courses but with the same casual spirit of the original restaurant. In its current form the restaurant also includes a four seat kitchen table that allows guests to enjoy an extended menu.

eggs
Domaine D'Orfeuilles, Vouvray, M/V
The first course was a delightful study in fish roe featuring wild Oscetra caviar, trout and shad roes, and bottarga (mullet). Aside from the caviar, the eggs are presented on a thin flatbread crisp made in the restaurant's outdoor wood fire oven. The topping of herbs and flowers brighten the dish immensely both visually, texturally, and on the palate. Eating the Oscetra in conjunction with the flatbread helps refocus the attention on the roe thanks to its unbridled salinity.

trio of canapes
Next up was a trio of artfully presented canapes. We were told to start with the Kusshi oyster then progress to the poached egg and finish with the pickled radish. The oyster was seasoned with lemon and olive oil and topped with a slice of cucumber, the clean flavor of the shellfish is tempered by the olive oil and the cucumber adds a nice crunch to the mix. The egg topped with parsnip was noticeably heavier, I loved the almost gelatinous texture of the yolk but the puree was too sweet for my tastes. The piquant crunch of the daikon and watermelon radishes was an effective in washing out the richness of the previous course and was my favorite of the trio.

cru
Mahoney, Albarino, Carneros, 2007
I don't know what how the chef came up with the name but the dish itself consists of the most seductive flavorful tuna tartare that I've ever had. The bright red flesh was torn by a scallop shell then mixed with a roasted blend of fish fat and sinew giving the mixture an extravagant oily char reminiscent of a grilled toro. If that weren't enough the dish was paired with gelée made from marrow extracted by boiling fish bones and white soy sauce that gave the dish a lighter more savory brine. A rice cracklin topped with shrimp floss and river vegetables provides a brazenly salty textural variance. The third component was a shot of spinal jelly that we were told to eat midway through the course. With a flavor like a muted saltwater, the jelly helped reset the palate between bites of the tuna. This was so good we asked for seconds.

brassicas
Ici/La-Bas, "Philippine," Santa Maria, 2007
Brassicas refer to any number of mustard greens which are presented in a myriad of ways including dehydrated, roasted, and poached in a bonito broth. Accompanying the varied greens were a poached quail egg and a broth made from three types of fish and five types of kelp (but the chef specifically said it wasn't dashi). Breaking the egg releases a golden rush of yolk that thickens the soup giving it a weighty texture to accompany its beautiful savoriness. I enjoyed this dish immensely but if I had one complaint it would be that the greens were marginalized by the broth and egg and I would have liked their astringency to play a more prominent role.

summer vegetables
Displaying crisp vegetal textures and a bright summery levity that are par for a vegetable course, this dish goes beyond simply being light and refreshing thanks to the squash and avocado which buttress the dish with a satisfying hearty weight.

wild spot prawn
Boeckel, Riesling, Alsace, France, 2009
From the instant I walked into the kitchen and saw the tank of live spot prawns I was looking forward to this course. The shrimp was presented simply boiled in seawater to preserve and celebrate the prawn's natural flavor. Unfortunately the brains and innards of my prawn were incredibly bitter and earthy, the unpleasant flavor tainting my enjoyment of the shrimp's flesh. The one saving grace of this dish was the accompanying bowl of mixed shellfish including: uni, lobster, and Dungeness crab along with a crustacean broth seasoned with orange, basil, and tarragon.

stew
Chateau Couronneau, Bordeaux, France, 2009
The final savory of the night was labeled a stew but the flavors were so genteel and refined that it hardly felt like one. Starting with rabbit two ways, confit and mousse, the dish also features foraged flowers, peas, assorted greens, and even a piece of foie gras for good measure. The mousse is superb, the texture akin to a fish cake but so much more robust. The confit augmented by the foie provides most of the savoriness which in turn is countered by the grassy peas and peppery bite of the greens.

preserved lemon 1:27
Strub, Riesling Kabinett, Germany 2008
A simple but expressive dessert that displays of a multifaceted array of citrus flavors tinged with a floral levity from the chrysanthemum foam. The elegance of the dessert begs to be savored but I couldn't stop myself from devouring it.

chocolate
Singla, Rivesaltes Ambre, 2008
The final dessert was a chocolate but like the rest of the meal the dessert manages to convey a rich nuanced flavor profile without feeling heavy. A white chocolate quinelle is paired with a caramel cream and finished with a sesame tuile. The combination reminded me of the Jin Duei (fried sesame seed balls) served at dim sum.

popcorn ice cream
This was my favorite of the desserts, the concentrated essence of popcorn at once brazenly buttery and salty but balanced by a sweetness very much like kettle corn.

raspberry pate de fruit
A final sugary pate de fruit ended the meal on a very sweet note.

Yet another stellar meal, unlike many other tasting menus I left feeling satisfied but not overly full or sluggish. Chef Skenes wisely lets the ingredients speak for themselves resulting in a transcendent purity of flavor and a captivating integrity that places Saison squarely among the best in the Bay Area.

Ludobites 7.0 - 09/10/2011

2011-09-11T15:06:00.000-07:00

227 E 9th Street
Los Angeles, CA 90015
(213) 624-7272

The final night of LudoBites always feels just a little more special, a chance to see how the menu has evolved and if my favorites have made it through unscathed.

Choucroute Tart Flambe
Choucroute is a Alsacian take on Sauerkraut and in fact the name is the francophonic form of the word. Typically Choucroute is paired with potato and sausage and those accompaniments make an appearance on the tart. The result is a wonderful melange of smoke and piquancy layered on top of a base of cheese and crisp yeasty tart.

Masala Fried Chicken - Chicken Fat Vinaigrette
Ludo's fried chicken was a common sight throughout 3.0 and 4.0, eventually spawning a food truck dedicated to those succulent balls of fried goodness. Since then the chicken has been curiously absent, so it was a real pleasure to see this on the menu. Instead of the classic Provencal style nuggets, this was a plate of wings bereft of batter; more like a roasted chicken with the moist dark meat wrapped in a lightly crisp skin. The wings are simple, pure, and delicious; classic bar food writ large.

Prawn & Scallop Ceviche - Aji Amarillo, Red Berries
Ludo's ceviches tend to be on the acidic side, but this was a nice departure from the norm. While the Aji Amarillo delivered some acidic heat, I didn't get the same mouth puckering sensation. The smashed berries were a nice touch, the resonant sweetness coming through clearly on the finish.

Salt Cod Panna Cotta - Whipped Fingerling Potato, Smoked Tapioca
Only Ludo would be so brazen to turn fish into a panna cotta. After trying this opening night, I felt it needed some fine-tuning and it looks like in the interim Ludo has just done that. The salt cod remains fairly subdued, but the dish has a new sense of clarity in the form of a smoky savory weight.

Pigs Head Compressed - Mimolette, Barbeque Gelée, Pickled Melons
I think this dish best sums up the magic of Ludo's cooking. Pig's head sounds downright intimidating but Ludo manages to do the ingredient justice yet readily approachable. The sandwich is stuffed with a melange of bits from the pigs head and a creamy spread of cheese, a veritable symphony of porcine sapor and offal-y goodness. The barbeque sauce is as astringent as ever while the pickled melon provided a milder tang and much needed succulence.

Braised Oxtail Beef - Rainbow Carrots, Shallots, Amaranth
I envisioned something like a Chinese red braised beef or some form of stew. Though the dish had some textural similarities and the typical dark savoriness of a braised beef, the inclusion of orange wedges gives the dish an unexpected juicy sweet levity.

Foie Gras Crudo - Mushrooms, Grapes, Hazelnut Oil
The finely shaved foie slices reminded me of the foie gras "log" served at Atelier Crenn. The liver dissolves on the tongue leaving behind a sensation of butteriness and subtle offal twang. Though the accompaniments seem haphazard, they result in a nuanced cerebral dish that left the entire table craving more.

Egg - Sea Urchin, Caviar, Champagne Beurre Monté
It's no surprise this dish was still on the menu; the pairing of egg and caviar is a timeless classic. The lusty weight of the egg matches up well with the forceful salinity of the caviar while the uni gives the dish a distinctive brine on the finish.

Plancha Tandoori Octopus - Yogurt, Cauliflower, Grapefruit
Ludo's tandoori octopus was brilliant the first time around and it has only gotten better since with the octopus having a deeper more concentrated flavor and the grapefruit was a more effective foil for the octopus this time around.

Squid - Black Ash, Baby Leeks, Spring Onion, Chorizo
This was the most beautifully plated course of the night. On its own the squid takes on an overwhelming char of the black ash, but the dish was absolutely delicious once the oily smoky essence of the chorizo came into play.

Lamb cooked in fat "Moroccan Style" - Artichoke, Mint
This was a wonderful lamb dish, the meat is beautifully tender with the fat possessing a wonderfully rustic weight. The mint was absolutely critical to this course, its herbaceousness attenuating the gaminess of the lamb fat.

Duck - Cherry, Spicy Saucisse, Beets, Radish
I'm glad to see this dish made it through the from beginning to end pretty much unscathed. The breast remains immensely savory and beautifully dense, while the sausage amps up the flavor markedly. The beets are fairly subdued, but the radish adds a fat-cleansing astringency.

Foie Gras - Corn, Coconuts
I was a bit wary ending the meal with a dish of seared foie, thinking that the weight might be off-putting. Instead the spicy sweet corn soup meshes seamlessly with the liver making for a beautifully cohesive dish. This is how to do a seared foie right!

Pick-Up Stick Cantal Cheese - Curry White Chocolate
The cheese itself takes a back seat to the interplay between the curry, white chocolate, and apple which result in a flavor similar to a savory caramel apple, the perfect interlude before dessert.

Chocolate Cake - Chipotle, Orange
The chocolate cake with olive oil brought back memories of the savory cake Ludo served at 4.0 but happily this was a much more evolved and refined version. The cake itself is decadently fudgy and infused with a smoky spice from the chipotle then tinged with floral aromas and delicate citrus oil.

Lavender Tropezinne Tart - Aloe Vera, Peach
A traditional "Tarte Tropézienne" isn't actually a tart, but rather brioche that is sliced and filled with cream. The light fluffy bread imbued with the soothing floral essence of lavender supplied a revitalizing lift to end meal.

Though I enjoyed my opening night experience at 7.0, the dishes definitely felt more polished and refined this time around. At the end of the night Ludo shared some of his upcoming plans and as always I will be impatiently awaiting his next culinary adventure.

The Slanted Door - 08/29/2011

2011-09-07T23:45:00.000-07:00

1 Ferry Bldg
San Francisco, CA 94111
(415) 861-8032

The Slanted Door has been on my list of restaurants to try ever since my formative days as a foodie when I worked for a start-up in the Bay Area right out of undergrad. Unfortunately I never made it up to the restaurant back then so I couldn't pass up a chance to have lunch this time around.

I first heard about the restaurant in 2005 and even after a decade in business, the Slanted Door maintains a formidable, if mixed, reputation as one of the best Vietnamese restaurants in the city. Fast forward another five years the restaurant has moved from its original location to a new home right on the water in the Ferry Building and remains as popular as ever with a room full of well-heeled professionals and even more people still waiting for a table during the lunch rush.

Charles Phan opened The Slanted Door in November of 1995 and the restaurant quickly gained a reputation for it's modern take on Vietnamese cuisine. Today using high-quality sustainable ingredients isn't particularly noteworthy, but 17 years ago, and doing so at Asian restaurant to boot, it was downright groundbreaking. If that wasn't enough, the restaurant also features an extensive wine list and a very well executed cocktail program featuring mostly old fashioned recipes, quite the departure from most Asian restaurants where alcohol is an afterthought at best.

Phan was born in Vietnam, but left as a young child following the turmoil of the Vietnam War and settled in San Francisco's Tenderloin district. Like most immigrant families, Charles and his siblings worked multiple jobs to support their family. Phan ended up studying architecture at UC Berkeley to appease his father, but eventually found his way back to his true passion: food. Incredibly, Charles opened The Slanted Door with no prior experience; convincing several of his family members join him in his venture, many of whom still work at the restaurant today. In addition to the Slanted Door, Phan owns three Vietnamese take out joints (Out the Door), a modern Chinese restaurant (Heaven's Dog), plus a casual cafe (academycafe) and a Cal-Med restaurant (The Moss Room) both located at the California Academy of Science. Admirably, Phan also gives back to the community, participating in numerous charity events throughout the year.

Gin Fizz Tropical - Plymouth gin, Small Hand Foods orgeat and pineapple gum, lime, egg white, soda water
A slight twist on a Silver Gin Fizz, the drink maintains a textural element from the egg white foam and mixes that with sweet and sour nuances of the pineapple gomme and orgeat syrup.

strubbe flemish ale - a sour red ale
Ever since my first taste of Duchess de Bourgone, I've been hooked on sour ale. This was a lighter variety, the typically bright sour cherry note are not balanced by the caramelized malty sweetness on the other sour ales that I've tried.

saison dupont - belgian farmhouse ale
Saison style beers have long been one of my favorites, funkiness aside, the floral aromas and grassy tang paired effectively with many of the courses.

california yellowtail - with crispy shallots and thai basil
The yellowtail was one of my favorite things on the menu, the fish itself is fresh clean and oily but cut wider giving it a tender fleshiness. The heavenly essence and light crunch of the fried shallots add a concentrated savory weight to the fish.

half dozen oysters - island creek (ma), kumamoto (ca), drake's bay (ca)
On our way to The Slanted Door, we walked by the Hog Island Oyster company which got me craving the succulent little bivalves. We opted for a full dozen oysters and asked our waitress to select her three favorite varieties. The oysters were fresh enough to enjoy without any accompaniments. My favorite of the three was the Kumamoto a bit sweeter than the Island Creek and Drake's Bay which had more brine and minerality respectively.

wild california uni - with black tobiko, avocado, cucumber
The creaminess of the avocado meshes well with the uni making for a lusciously creamy texture broken up by the taut pops of the tobiko and light crunch of the cucumber. The uni is fresh but unfortunately the over-aggressive application of acidity which masks the flavor of the roe.

green papaya - with pickled carrot, tofu, rau ram and roasted peanuts
Despite my unbridled loathing for ripe papaya, I find the unripe version of the fruit positively delicious. Crisp, vegetal, with a slightly astringent mouthfeel, the papaya is a nice base for the light salad of pickled vegetables and aromatic rau ram.

chilled greenlip mussels - steamed in wine and lemongrass with roasted chili aioli
Not exactly raw per se, the oysters were prepared in a classic light wine sauce with the lemongrass helping to balance the shellfish's more aggressive flavors while the earthy vegetal spice of the aioli gives the dish a bit of an edge.

shrimp and pork wonton soup - with five spice pork and egg noodles
I don't really think of wonton soup as Vietnamese and flavor-wise this was pretty similar to the wonton noodle soup I grew up eating, still a solid effort nonetheless with the only twist was the bits of pork fat which gave the broth a pleasing weighty richness.

mesquite grilled lamb sausage and kusshi oysters - chinese black olive and preserved lemon relish
The dainty Kusshi oysters were even better than those on the half-shell we had earlier thanks to the astringent tang of the pickled daikon. The lamb was equally impressive, a multifaceted blend of game, fat, and spice. Individually the two components of the dish are both quite good but I don't see the rationale behind pairing them. Perhaps we should have eaten the sausage first then use the oysters for a palate cleanser.

grass-fed estancia shaking beef - cubed filet mignon, watercress, red onions and lime sauce
While this was probably the best preparation of shaking beef that I've ever tasted, something in my soul quails at the idea of paying $36 dollars for shaking beef. Despite being a bit overcooked, the beef itself was quite tender as would be expected with a high quality filet mignon. Still, for me the best part of the course was the bed of watercress and red onion which absorbed the beefy sapor of the beef.

dirty girl farm haricots vert - with beech mushrooms and roasted chili
This humble plate of French beans proved to be one of the highlights of the meal. The beans possess a capacious snappiness and are seasoned with a pleasing piquant spice. The beech mushrooms were a wonderful addition that seemed to absorb and amplify the savory essence of the sauce.

Queen's Park Swizzle - Pampero Aniversario rum, mint, lime, Angostura and Peychaud's bitters, crushed ice
The swizzle is a beautiful looking cocktail of Trinidadian origin. I was expecting something on the lighter side but the kick of the rum is immediately apparent, with heady scents of mint and a potent bitter kick.

spicy monterey squid - with pineapple, sweet peppers, jalapeño and thai basil
I had high hopes for this dish but neither the concept nor the execution was up to par. The squid itself was tender but inexplicably bland what I did taste felt overly sweet and clumsy a far cry from the balance I expected from the jalapeño and basil.

raspberry-rose shaved ice - condensed milk & aloe
I thought the shaved ice was a bit off the mark. The floral tones of the rose and liveliness of the raspberry were enjoyable but the shaved ice was far too coarse, resulting in the crunch of ice chips instead of the airy powdery texture of a true shaved ice.

lychee cotton candy
I'm ashamed to admit it but I love cotton candy. Even now the feel of spun sugar dissolving on the tongue evokes that child-like feeling of wonderment. The lychee flavor was a nice touch, adding a tropical sharpness to the otherwise monolithic flavor of raw sugar.

Overall, the food at The Slanted Door doesn't quite reach the level of more recent contemporary Asian restaurants like Lukshon or Red Medicine. There were some missteps along the way with flavors feel a bit unbalanced or blunt and some of the menu items feel dated and painfully out of place at a restaurant of this caliber. It's a bit unfair to say that The Slanted Door feels tired, rather I feel the restaurant has become a victim of its own success. The "slanted door spring rolls" typify the problem; on the menu since the restaurant opened, they are no different than the rolls served at every other Vietnamese restaurant aside from being treble the price. At the same time, I suspect that many of the restaurant's regular customers would revolt if Phan and company were to take them off the menu. Still the menu is extensive enough that there are plenty of selections for both the conservative and the adventurous.

Koi Palace - 08/28/2011

2011-09-04T18:25:00.000-07:00

365 Gellert Blvd
Daly City, CA 94015
(650) 992-9000

There aren't many places outside of Asia that can compare to Monterey Park and the San Gabriel Valley when it comes to dim sum. A large Asian population and an abundance of competition has resulted in the area's best restaurants offering the Designer's Holy Triangle: food that is good, fast, AND cheap.

With its own substantial Chinese population, San Francisco is one of the few places that might be able to give the SGV a run for the title of best dim sum in the US. Having tasted many of the best places at home I couldn't miss the opportunity to see how the Bay Area stacked up. Yank Sing is the trendy favorite, but those in the know consider Koi Palace to be superior.

Knowing the restaurant was likely to be crowded, we arrived at the restaurant around 10:45 only to find the waiting area was already filled with people. According to the restaurant's queuing system, some people had already been waiting for 40 minutes. Fortunately we only had to wait 20 minutes before being seated.

Soy Marinated Duck Tongue
Not something you see every day on dim sum menus and with good reason: it takes a lot of ducks to make each order. These are actually a bit laborious to eat, basically a small flap of skin and cartilage the tongues are more about textural contrast than anything else.

Pork Ribs in Black Bean Sauce
A spot-on preparation of spare ribs, the meat is a nice mix of lean meat and fat while the and seasoned with a fermented earthy funk from the black bean sauce.

Shrimp Dumpling (Har Gow)
Har gow is arguably the most popular dim sum and is often the one used to judge the overall skill of a chef. In that regard this was something of a mixed effort. The skin was thin and translucent but a touch sticky and too frail. Likewise the shrimp was plentiful and nicely flavored but slightly overcooked.

Steamed Chicken Claws with Black Bean Sauce
For some reason this seems to be the dish most people recall when I mention dim sum. Despite looking quite fearsome, the "Phoenix Claws" are actually quite good. Preparing the feet is actually fairly laborious; the feet are fried then steamed to give the skin a tender fleshy texture before being stewed and simmered to imbue them with flavor.

Glutinous Dumpling with Diced Pork
No other type of dim sum is as wildly inconsistent as these football shaped balls of fried glutinous rice. Old they are dense dull with a congealed interior. Fortunately these were freshly fried, the exterior is crisp, sticky and sweet while the piping hot interior adds a deliciously salty contrast.

Steamed BBQ Pork Bun
I actually meant to order the baked buns, but it was a nice change of pace to try the steamed version. The bao itself is airy and light while the pork is finely diced and liberally sauced resulting in a luscious sweet filling for the bun.

Shark Fin Large Dumpling Soup
I was expecting this to be something like an enlarged xiao long bao filled entirely with soup. Instead what we got was a dumpling submerged in broth. The flavor had an echo of the gao tong that normally accompanies sharks fine, but the dumpling itself was a muddy disconcerting mess.

Steamed Shrimp Dumpling Topped with XO Sauce
This was another of my favorites, the skin was sturdier than the regular shrimp dumpling and the topping of dried scallop augmented the dish with a potent umami sapor.

Vegetarian Spring Roll
Thinking that they probably had their fill of duck tongue and chicken feet. I ordered this for the less experienced dim sum eaters in our party. Despite having a nice crispness, the bland vegetable mix reminded me why I normally steer clear of this course.

Shanghai Crab Roe Steamed Pork Dumplings
I was surprised to see this on the menu at Koi Palace for two reasons. Firstly, Shanghai crabs are a delicacy in China prized for their roe with some species commanding over $100 per kilogram. Furthermore, Xiao Long Bao is actually a dish from Eastern China not commonly found at traditional dim sum restaurants. Tradition aside I was quite pleased with this dish, the roe added an interesting wrinkle to the traditional XLB.

Black Truffle Mushroom Siu Mai
Unconventional dishes like this one are what set Koi Palace apart from the typical dim sum restaurant. Though the truffles didn't really add much to the dish, I appreciated the thought that went into their inclusion.

Sea Scallop Dumpling
Though labeled as a scallop dumpling, the scallops were fairly muted both texturally and in terms of taste. Instead this was really more like a har gow with scallops added for a denser meaty texture.

Baked Portuguese Custard Tart
The Portuguese custard tart was basically a dan tat writ large: sweeter, richer, and more of it to love. In fact one theory on the origin of dan tat suggests that they evolved from the Portuguese pastel de nata which traveled to Hong Kong via Macau.

Crusty Baked BBQ Pork Bun
After I mistakenly ordered the steamed buns earlier, one of my companions insisted on trying the baked version. Though we had to wait a while the buns were worth it.

Shrimp Rice Roll
We decided to finish off the meal with another childhood staple. Unlike the other classic dim sum my feelings were mixed on this dish, the shrimp to wrapper ratio was perfect, but the texture of both was a bit off.

While I appreciated the unconventional touches on some of the specials at Koi Palace, the execution on some of the conventional dim sum falls short. In the end, Koi Palace put up a valiant effort and I enjoyed the food immensely, but I still prefer my favorites in Southern California particularly once price is factored in.

Baume - 08/28/2011

2011-08-31T18:43:00.000-07:00

201 S California Ave
Palo Alto, CA 94306
(650) 328-8899

Baume was the third stop on our culinary tour of the Bay Area. My initial impression of the minimalist menu made me think of yet another avant garde contemporary restaurant though officially the restaurant really seeks to combine the ancient and the modern.

Baume's chef, Bruno Chemel has had a long and storied career. He started off studying in Moulins France while working at the Michelin two star Jean Pierre Billoux. Chef Chemel's qualifications also include a study a course of study at the Lenotre Pastry Academy and experience working with French luminaries such as Guy Savoy and Joel Robuchon. The chef then came to the states to take an Exec Chef role at Le Chantilly before traveling to Japan for four years to study macrobiotic cooking. He eventually returned to the states to run Ambrosia in Hawaii before finally opening his own restaurant Cliquo. In 2002 Chef Chemel landed in Southern California to run Aqua at The St Regis in Monarch Beach. Personal reasons ended up bringing him to the Bay Area where he worked at La Suite and Chez TJ before finally opening Baume.

Baume's pastry chef is a young man by the name of Ryan Shelton, a South Bay native who studied Biology and Guitar at my own alma mater, UCI. Ryan also studied at the Art Institute in OC before honing his culinary skills in Europe and Asia. He began cooking professionally in 2003 and worked at several casual restaurants before making the transition to fine dining as a Pastry/Sous Chef at Chez TJ.

Umétini - Sparkling Sake with Plum Nitro Sorbet
I liked the idea behind this drink with the smoky bits of plum nitro melting into a foam top for the drink. Unfortunately the drink was a bit hard to enjoy until the sorbet melts which defeats the purpose of the liquid nitrogen.

Baumétini - Sparkling Sake with Lilikoi Caviar
Another fun cocktail the sake has a slight sweetness that is heightened by the dollops of passion fruit caviar.

Watermelon Glacé - Cucumber Yogurt
Delightfully light and bracing, the sweetness of the melon fades under the tang of the yogurt with the cucumber becoming far more apparent on the finish.

Olive - Boquerones
The idea behind this course was an open faced sandwich with anchovy and tomato-olive oil nitro on olive bread. A bit of balance was in order here, the bread was the dominant element and I would have liked to see more from the fish.

These dime sized tablets were brought to the table prior to the previous course and we were instructed not to eat or touch them. Our waiter poured hot water on the tablets causing them to expand into a hot hand towel for use after the boquerones.

Deconstructed Gazpacho - Couscous Roll
I didn't really feel the gazpacho was deconstructed per se, the granita, foam, and broth are too similar structurally but it was a good soup nonetheless. The flavor is more vegetal than a traditional gazpacho, giving me echos of a refined V8. I thought the couscous roll was enjoyable but again it didn't really make sense to me to stick combine it with the gazpacho.

Caviar - Grape, Sesame
Stephane Coquillette Brut (Chouilly) N.V.
The first official course was an unconventional take on caviar. As much as I like a traditional caviar service, the combination with sweet and nutty profiles was an enjoyable change. I particularly liked how each bite saw a different flavor coming to the fore.

62° Egg - Ratatouille
Vin Gris de Cigare (Santa Cruz Mountains) 2010
The poached egg is Chef Chemel's signature course and with very good reason, the yolk is a torrent of viscous molten gold that flows on the palate like liquid velvet. Paired with a simple ratatouille, the zesty hearty substance of the vegetables adds a rusticity and heartiness to contrast the ethereal mouthfeel of the egg.

Heirloom Tomato Salade - Leek Ash Sponge
Domain du Salvard (Cheverny) 2010
Fresh tomato is one of the most versatile forms of produce, it can be sweet, tart, or verdant as the situation demands. Chef Chemel presents a tender sweeter preparation that maintains a svelte levity despite augmenting the flavor of the tomato with vanilla and balsamic gel. The leek ash and leek ash sponge are distinctly bitter and in large quantities the char dims the freshness of the tomato.

Foie Gras Finacier - Brandied Cherry Gelee
Robert Weil Riesling (Rheingau) 2009
Dubbed "Grape en Disguise," the core of this course was a terrine of foie gras dipped in a tart cherry gel. Tasting the foie on its own the richness comes through beautifully with an integrated tartness from the cherry. We were advised to spread the foie on the brioche, but I thought it was temperate enough to stand on its own.

Loup De Mer - English Pea Hummus, Heirlooms Carrot
Jean-Marc Brocard (Chablis) 2008
This might have been my favorite course of the night. The fish is clean flaky and moist while the pea hummus is expectantly grassy and fresh with a pointed acidity. My biggest concern was the carrots but they were sublime having a crisp counterpoint, vegetal twang, and nuanced sweetness that complimented the fish beautifully. Everything on the plate mixes flawlessly and the result is a bass that sings with verdant flavor, power, and grace.

Tarragon Lobster - Yu Choy
Kistler Chardonnay Les Noisettiers (Sonoma Coast) 2009
I had extremely high hopes for this course thinking that the grassy yu choy would be a welcome change from the typical buttery sauces normally paired with a lobster. As much as I love vegetal accompaniments the puree was akin to a wheat grass juice, the bitterness completely subsuming the sweetness of the lobster. If that weren't enough, the garlic flower was equally potent and bludgeoned the palate into oblivion.

Melon - Mint Snow, Prosciutto
Diebolt Vallois Brut Rose (Champagne) N.V.
Being a sucker for melon and prosciutto I was very excited by this frozen preparation. I think the mint was unnecessary with the flavor dominating on the attack. The creamy sweetness of the melon came through on the finish with the tiniest whisper of prosciutto on the finish. I was hoping for the ham to be more apparent, perhaps an oily Jamon Iberico would have been a more appropriate accompaniment.

Peach Balsamic Canard - Vanilla Smoke
Ellipsis Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley) 2009
The dish started with a completely aromatic component. Our server brought a block with vanilla strips and poured liquid nitrogen, releasing a cold smoke infused with a floral sweet aroma. The duck itself was beautifully cooked but the accompanying peach was sweet enough to crystallize blood. A scattering of pepitas added a slight toasty element, but there just wasn't enough to balance out the ripe flavor of the fruit.

Grass Fed Beef - a la Niçoise, Tarragon Jus
Ahlgren Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains) 2007
I was happy to see to finally see some red meat on the menu. The heart of this dish is two tiny morsels of filet mignon are coated in a zesty tarragon jus that augments the natural essence of the meat. I was a bit concerned that the meat would have an overly heavy olive character, but it was fairly subdued and fit well within the structure of the dish. The artichoke, tomato, and haricot vert were unconventional but effective counterpoints to the beef.

Cheese Composition - Gourgandines & Brebirousse
Delas (Cotes-du-Rhone) 2009
It has been a while since I've had a composed cheese course and it was nice to see one with such challenging cheeses. First up was a semi-hard cow's milk cheese that had a blue-like richness along with a lingering piquancy. The Brebirousse is a soft ewe's milk cheese with a tender orange rind and pearlescent white center, the flavor was similar to the Gourgandine but a hair richer. Both cheeses were delicious but surprisingly I preferred the hard cheese which I thought was a bit more complex.

Nectaplum - "Spice Zee" Port Syrup
Dessert opened with another morsel on a spoon. This time a succulent sweet sliver of nectarine tinged with a thick sweet port.

Coupe Spumoni - Berry Tarte
Plum-Peach Float
Spumoni is a classic Italian dessert traditionally made with pistachio and chocolate ice cream with a layer of nuts and cherry between them. Presented in a cup, the dessert has a modern feel but the components are straight out of the textbook; a good choice given the amounnt of complexity already in the dessert. Simultaneously we were presented with a straightforward strawberry tart, buttery and rich it was a bit blunt but still tasted great. I wish the spumoni and tarte were presented separately as the two desserts really had very little to do with one another.

Mignardises - Chocolate Covered Marshmallow
The meal finished with two chocolate covered marshmallows. It tasted like there was some caramel thrown in there to give a slight sweetness.

Having not done much research into Baume I was expecting a heavily modernist experience and there are some touches like heavy use of liquid nitrogen that do indeed fall into the new school of thought. However on the whole, I felt many of the dishes had a strong classical grounding giving the meal a more substantial feel than my earlier dinners.

One of the biggest disadvantages having so many high caliber restaurants back-to-back is that it magnifies small flaws. Specifically the missteps on the duck and lobster stood out starkly against the dinners at Atelier Crenn and Saison. Despite that, the meal was still quite enjoyable; probably my second favorite restaurant in the South Bay after Manresa.

Atelier Crenn - 08/26/2011

2011-08-27T15:19:00.000-07:00

3127 Fillmore Street
San Francisco, CA 94123
(415) 440-0460

Only open a year, Atelier Crenn immediately stands out even in a city with many as many avant garde restaurants as San Francisco. The brainchild of Chef Dominique Crenn, Atelier is named as an homage to Dominique's adoptive father, a politician cum artist who called his studio the "Atelier" and his art decorates the walls in the main dining room. Chef Crenn's own poetry decorates the walls in the back room, a zen like space that marries a garden with a dining room.

Dominique grew up in a household that celebrated food and art, her mother was a wonderful cook in her own right and exposed Dominique to a variety of cuisines at a young age. By 8 years of age she was eating at Michelin-starred restaurants and by 9, she started cooking at home. After graduating with a degree in economics and international business, Crenn moved to the States to pursue her true passion, food. After spending a decade working as a line cook in various restaurants throughout SF, Crenn took a detour to La Bruschetta in Jakarta where as the first female executive chef in Indonesia, she led a brigade of all female chefs. Upon returning stateside, Crenn spent 8 years as the Executive Chef at the Manhattan Beach Country Club before striking out and opening her first restaurant, Abode in 2007. After its abrupt closure, Crenn returned to the Bay Area and earned a Michelin star during her 4 year run as Executive Chef at Luce. While at Luce, Crenn also competed on Iron Chef America, competing against Michael Symon and winning by a whopping nine points! Crenn isn't the only superstar working at Atelier joining her is Pastry Chef Juan Contreras. Contreras was an LA native who worked at Alinea before joining Dominique at Crenn. Given the similarities between the two restaurants, his talent and creativity are a welcome addition.

Bread - Brioche
The bread service felt a bit simplistic for a restaurant as adventurous as Atelier Crenn but the basic brioche was warm, airy, and fiercely buttery; a childhood favorite of the chef and I can certainly see why.

Amuse 01: Summer Corn - Coconut
The first amuse demonstrates the sheer versatility of corn with an initial expansive sweetness heightened by the coconut that gradually takes on a gentle savory tinge. The bits of puffed quinoa supply a sharp textural contrast to the corn and coconut base while the micro cilanto adds a bright green zestiness on the finish.

Amuse 02: Kir Breton
Our second amuse was the restaurant's "aperitif," a variation of a Kir Royale, a popular French cocktail that is often served before a meal. The Breton named for Crenn's hometown of Brittany, uses apple cider in place of wine, and encapsulates the liquid in a thin shell of white chocolate. The sphere is anchored in place with a thick cassis jam and topped with more of the same for color. The outer layer of chocolate shatters with a light glassy crunch which releases a torrent of ripe apple tinged with menthol. The chocolate lingers on the palate a moment longer giving the morsel a buttery sweet finish.

01: "Ocean and Land" - Wagyu Beef, Smoked Sturgeon
NV Jean Babou, Cremant de Limoux
The first course of the night was a contemporary take on steak tartare. The shaved Wagyu flank steak is joined by classic accompaniments of onion, mustard, cornichon, capers, and horseradish reimagined while the spheres of sturgeon cream add a potent smoky twist belied by their miniscule size. This course perfectly captures the draw of modernist cuisine, the flavor is coherent and grounded in tradition but reinvented texturally and presented as a visually stunning feast for the eyes as well as the palate.

02: Oyster "Japonaise"
2008 Domaine Vocoret et Fils, 1er Cru Chablis
I thought this course drew inspiration from The French Laundry's Oyster's and Pearls but the rest of the table disagreed. The Kusshi Oysters were poached in sake with beurre blanc. I was expecting the butter to temper the oysters and while the richness was apparent, the bivalve brine was brash, clean, and completely unadulterated. The dish was finished with a lemon foam which cut right through the butter as well as the expressive salinity of the oysters.

Supplement 01: New Potato "Mémoire d' enfance" - Pea, almond, Comté crisps
In addition to the tasting menu we ordered an extra 4 course menu to sample some of the more interesting courses off the a la carte menu. When we found out one of our selections was already included we went with our waiter's recommendation to try the chef's updated take on a childhood favorite. Eating this I find myself intensely jealous of the chef's childhood, the heady fingerling confit reminds me of a grown-up tater tot while the bright grassy peas brings a vegetal constraint. If I had to find one fault, and it is a small one, it would be the fact that the peas and potatoes overwhelm the subtler flavors on the plate.

03: Foie Gras "Log"
2008 Domaine Sylvain-Gaudron, Vouvray Demi Sec
Rather than go with a traditional cold foie preparation like a torchon, the liver is sous vided then refrozen giving it a luxuriously smooth uniform mouthfeel as well as a more nuanced butteriness. Foie is typically paired with a sweet accompaniment, though more recently aromatic and bitter contrasts have been en vogue. Crenn manages to draw effectively on both schools in the form of vanilla cream and Thai basil gel. The interaction between the vanilla, basil, and foie is absolutely transcendent and the whole dish feels almost ethereal. Demonstrating such finesse with such a heavy ingredient was truly marvelous.

Supplement 02: "Le Jardin" and its soil, pickled vegetables
Chef Crenn has an exclusive agreement with Gouge Eye Farms with 60% of her produce coming from the farm presently and the goal of raising that to 100%. Typical Gargouille presents the vegetables with minimal adornment making Crenn's emphasis on acidity a nice from the norm. That isn't to say the dish doesn't still celebrate the beauty of the produce. The tomatoes and pea shoots provide the traditional vegetal base while the carrots, radishes, and beets give the dish a succulent multifaceted crunch but for me the pickled brine made the dish so much more appetizing and approachable. I typically loathe beets but the pickled beets in particular were beyond amazing, easily the best vegetable on the plate and far and away the best beet I've ever eaten.

Supplement 03: "The Sea," Loch Duart Salmon - mussels, smoked oysters, sand
Next up was the chef's attempt to capture the essence of the ocean. Starting with immaculately fresh sea food representing the ocean, we find the salmon's clean salinity elevated by the oysters and mussels then juxtaposed with the sweet creaminess of the uni. The sand is a blend of lemon, anchovy, and sesame that provides a grounded earthy sweetness. Again the lemon "sea" foam provides the perfect denouement cleansing the palate following the symphony of seafood.

04: "Walk in the Forest" - Textures of mushrooms, pine, hazelnut
2007 Sierra Madre Vineyards Pinot Noir, Sata Maria Valley
The "Walk in the Forest" has been on the menu since Crenn opened and is the closest thing the chef has to a signature dish and with good reason. With multiple preparations and species of mushrooms, the dish is at sublimely toothsome and supple with varying degrees of earthiness and a piquancy from a single morsel of pickled mushroom. The fungi are tempered with a "soil" of bruleed pine meringue, the interaction between the herbaceous sweetness and gravitas of the mushroom was nothing short of majestic.

Intermezzo: Apple, Celery, Melon
We got our first look at Pastry Chef Juan Contreras with this intermezzo ahead of our final two savories. The bracing chill of the dessert was quite refreshing though I thought the celery was a bit heavy-handed the sweetness from the fruit intertwined nicely.

05: Salmon "Basquaise"
2009 Christian Verger, "Saint Lager," Brouilly
The Basque style salmon is accompanied by a vibrant sauce of roasted red pepper coulis, tomato, and a pearl onion, effectively a deconstructed Romesco. The light dusting of Bottarga augments the salmon's flavor giving it the strength to stand up to the expressive sauce. I noticed my piece of salmon was substantially thinner than my companions' and in the only real execution fault of the night my fish was a touch overdone.

06: Guinea Hen - "Thailandaise"
2007 Solter Sekt, Riesling Brut, Rheingau
Surprisingly the final savory was a chicken dish paired with a light sparkling white wine. The guinea hen was noticeably leaner than the typical chicken but with a fuller richer flavor between typical chicken and a game bird like squab. Light fragrant accompaniments of basil, coconut, ginger and lemon zest are perfect in keeping with the delicacy of the bird but still felt a bit simplistic compared to the earlier courses.

Intermezzo 02: Essence of Eucalyptus
Chef Contreras described this course as "driving towards the city." The pastoral aroma of eucalyptus was immediately apparent; on the palate the herbaceousness is appreciably mellowed by honey and lemon.

07: "Olives" - Fennel, Lemon, Almond
2006 Von Hovel, Riesling Auslese, Mosel
From the conception, presentation, and execution this was easily one of the most impressive desserts I've ever encountered. The story behind the dessert is a olive fresh off the tree. Instead of a true olive the focus of the dish is an EVOO ice cream reconstituted on an olive branch. Accompanying the "olive" are a lemon ice, fennel jam, and almond nougatine. Don't as me how it works out so well, but combination is absolutely spectacular. This might be the best dessert I've eaten all year.

Supplement 04: Tomato, Basil, Mint
The final supplement of the night was a play on strawberries and basil. The dessert starts with a basil ice cream sphere dipped in an admixture of tomato water and strawberry. The fruity sweet ice cream is paired with a base of tomato ice and a "sand" of savory basil cake finished with a hint of toastiness from the pine nuts on the finish.

Mignardises
Composed among a living Douglas Fir Bonsai tree this was dessert was stunningly beautiful with a soothing Zen vibe. We were advised to eat the various treats in the following order:
Virginia Blood Cedar Pate de Fruit: This was my favorite of the candies, sugary sweet with an aroma of spiced sandalwood.
Strawberry Pate de Fruit with Coriander: Seductively sweet and jammy with an aromatic accent, an adult fruit roll-up.
Kalamasi Marshmallow: Spongy and airy with a crystaline note of citrus aroma.
Salted Caramel with Maldon Sea Salt: A textbook caramel, initially chewy and sticky the heated sugar becomes creamy upon mastication. The flavor is delightfully savory sweet with toffee and coffee notes that come in and out of focus.
White Chocolate Ganache with Sweet Orange: Contreras described this as a take on creamsicle. The ganache had a slightly jellied texture with seamlessly balanced orange and chocolate.
Milk Chocolate Ganache with Passion Fruit: Surprisingly bitter for a milk chocolate, the monolithicity of the chocolate is broken by the pop of acidity from the passion fruit
Chewy Nougatine with Cocoa: A very delicate nougatine, the dark chocolate gives it an almost palpable savory smokiness.
72% Dark Chocolate with Gold: The thin pieces of chocolate dissolve on the tongue leaving a tangy bitterness on the palate.

It has been a while since I have left a restaurant with such a feeling of wonderment and joy. Visually stunning, intellectually stimulating, and absolutely delicious, Atelier Crenn takes the idea of food as art to a whole new level. The food at Atelier Crenn tends toward the lighter side, with grace and finesse being the watchwords of the day. Simply put, Atelier Crenn is my new favorite restaurant in the city and I fully expect Dominique to capture at least two Etoiles next time in the next Michelin Guide.

Playa - 08/05/2011

2011-08-24T14:56:00.000-07:00

7360 Beverly Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90036
(323) 933-5300

My deepest thanks to Komal, Holly, and Will for arranging an impromptu birthday dinner at Playa. The restaurant has been on my radar since it first opened though after missing the opening night, my sense of urgency dropped off appreciably.

Since opening in 2009, John Sedlar's original Rivera has established itself as the epitome of pan-Latin cuisine in Los Angeles. With his new venture, Playa-Rivera, Sedlar seeks to create a more casual affair; encapsulating LA's laid-back costal spirit into the food, drink, and decor in a style dubbed "urban Latin cuisine"

A Diving Bell - Single Village Mezcal, English Gin, Lime, Falernum, Caramelized Pineapple Gomme, Yuzu, Cayenne Pepper
Fittingly, my first experience with mezcal was during the Playa preview at Test Kitchen. Since then I have developed an appreciation for the liquor's smoky almost petrol-y flavor. The mezcal is immediately apparent with a subtle savoriness that intertwines beautifully with the refreshing citrus and Cayenne's biting heat.

Chinese Democracy - London Dry, Arrack, Lime, Jackfruit Gomme, Micro-Amaranth
This was probably the most approachable of our initial cocktails, delightfully tropical with citrus and pineapple notes, the nuanced funk of the jackfruit adds the slightest bit of intrigue to an otherwise straightforward libation.

Poison Arrow - Añejo Tequila, Jamaican Rum, Peach Brandy, Canela, Orange Peel
The Swarm - Reposado Tequila, Mango, Douglas Fir, Fino Sherry, Lime, Hellfire Bitters, Bee Pollen
Betty Ford Mustang - Amaro Nonino, Lime, Pineapple, Market Cherries, Yellow Chartreuse, Punt Y Mes
Will arrived a bit late and wasted no time in catching up, ordering three cocktails simultaneously. The Poison Arrow lived up to its name with an aggressive heat tinged with orange oil. The swarm was my favorite of the trio, running the gamut of flavors from sweet, bitter, and spicy. The Betty Ford Mustang started off sweet and finished with a creeping herbaceousness from the yellow chartreuse.

Maize Cake Breakfast - 63° egg, pan-seared potato, truffle cheese espuma, market mushrooms
The first course was a vision of pure beauty, built around classic breakfast staples of egg and potato, the dish expressively captures the familiar warmth of the morning meal. One of my companions said she could eat this everyday for the rest of her life.

Octo-Palm - grilled octopus, palm hearts, scallions, oven-dried cherry tomatoes, oven-dried red onion
Sedlar has always taken something of an unconventional approach to plating and at Playa he has taken to placing pictures under the food. The theme of tonight's pictures was radiation, including pictures taken from the recent disaster in Fukushima. While I appreciated the concept, someone testing fish for radiation probably wasn't the best way to whet my appetite for a seafood course. All joking aside the sous-vided octopus was delicious, the persistent smokiness was complimented by the concentrated essence of the cherry tomatoes and the contrasting bitterness of the arugula.

Papas Salsa Verde - kennebec potatoes, avocado, chiles, serranos, micro cilantro
The Papas Salsa Verde were literally a plate of potato chips with salsa. Despite its simplicity I couldn't get enough of the unabashedly salty papas and the forceful verve of the salsa verde.

Arepas Caracas - venezuelan corn cakes, wood-grilled shrimp, mango, chiles
The Arepas came highly recommended and indeed the starchy heft is simple yet satisfying. The mango and chili make their presence felt with a spicy-sweet counterpoint, but the shrimp were completely invisible.

Maize Cake Wild Mushrooms - black garlic and olive "soil", exotic mushrooms, l'explorateur cheese, porcini espuma, chives
Where the first maize cake was expressive and savory, this was more reserved, celebrating the dusky tones of the mushrooms. The triple cream cheese was a surprise, its luxuriant pungency provided a lift to the weighty flavors of the fungi.

That Misheard Rolling Stones Number - Blended Scotch, Single Village Mezcal, Blanc Vermouth
A cocktail of Scotch and Mezcal sounds like something that is sure to put hair on your chest, but this was surprisingly approachable. Like a steel fist in a velvet glove, the floral sweetness of the vermouth tempers the woody backbone of its stronger brethren.

The Rhythm Is Gonna Getcha - English Style Rum, Coca Cola Redux, Lime Foam
Basically a Cuba Libre, this was almost too simple for the cocktail program at Playa. The drink's saving grace was the foam, which heightened the impact of the lime and provided the drink with a silky mouth-coating texture.

Mussels Meltdown - Vapor Cooked Mussels, Charred Tomatillo-Serrano Salsa, Avocado-Lime Crema
This was easily the best course of the night, the interaction between the richness of the chorizo, the salinity of the mussels, and the complex resonant piquancy of the charred tomatillos was nothing short of masterful. After we finished with the mussels we devoured the remaining broth which reminded me of Ludo's vaunted Chorizo Soup.

Tamale Chipotle - wild-mushroom duxelles dumpling, filet mignon, chipotle béarnaise
This looked like it was meant to be a Latin take on a classic French steak with mushroom and Bearnaise, but the dish never came together. The steak was nicely done and quite enjoyable whereas the tamale was extremely heavy and with a gritty weight and monolithic sweetness.

Mezcal - Long Green Chile Relleno, Braised Pork Cheeks, Pineapple, Almonds, Chichicapa Mezcal Sauce
I was expecting a bit more flavor from a dish named Mezcal that features braised pork cheek. Instead of a smoky porcine sapor, the dish conveyed a meandering blend of the disparate ingredients.

Diplomatic Old Fashioned - Diplomat Whiskey, Bitters, Sugar
After ordering old fashioned cocktails all night, our waitress finally brought Will an actual Old Fashioned. While the drink doesn't break any new ground, the flavors seemed so focused making this my favorite preparation of this timeless cocktail.

Beer in a Bowl - Campari, Gin, Grapefruit, Champagne Beer Hops
Despite its vibrant ruddy hue, this cocktail does indeed taste like a humble lager on the attack. Once you get past the hoppy attack the drink is actually has an expressive floral bitterness characteristic of something like a Negroni.

Coconut - meringue, french buttercream, goat’s milk vanilla ice cream, goat cheese crumbles
The desserts were all gifts generously provided by the restaurant. The "coconut" had a wonderful airy and vibrant look and feel that translated perfectly on the palate. Not surprisingly the combination of vanilla, pineapple, and toasted coconut reminded me of the classic ice cream flavor but with a slightly savory twist.

Sundae - goat’s milk ice cream, hazelnuts, cocoa nibs, blue cornmeal chocolate chip cookies
While it took a bit of work to actually eat this artfully presented sundae, the dish was well worth the effort. The combination of caramel, chocolate, nuts, and ice cream is classic but works so well here especially with nuanced tang of the goat's milk. Coupled with the visceral textural contrasts of the semi-soft ice cream, and dense cornmeal cookie. this dessert was hands down the table favorite.

Pastel Café - mocha sponge, espresso crème, toffee honeycomb, colombian chocolate ice cream
The final dessert of the night was surprisingly nuanced despite featuring a slate of heavy flavors. I especially appreciated the offsetting sweetness and textural contrast of the toffee honeycomb.

After the preview dinner at Test Kitchen, I wrote that the menu still needed some fine tuning and since then it seems Sedlar has done just that and while the flavors didn't always work those that did, did so with a vengeance. Sedlar has taken his familiar pan-Latin cuisine and injected a degree of levity and creativity that feels at once playful yet refined.

Euclid Hall - 08/11/2011

2011-08-21T21:19:00.000-07:00

1317 14th Street
Denver, CO 80202
(303) 595-4255

What do dead Greek mathematicians and beer have to do with one another? Nothing as far as I can tell, but owners Jennifer Jasinski and Beth Gruitch chose to name their gastropub, Euclid Hall, after the father of geometry and bane of every 10th grader.

The duo have a burgeoning restaurant empire centered around Larimer Square that also includes Rioja and Bistro Vendome. Day to day the kitchen is run by Denver native Jorel Pierce who worked with Jasinski at Rioja before being tapped to be CdC at Euclid Hall.

The building that houses Euclid Hall has had quite a history behind, built in 1883 it served as a home, flea market, bar and according to rumors, a brothel catering to public officials. Inside the restaurant has a polished urban feel that is like an inviting neighborhood bar, but gentrified.

Pepino Picoso - Pinnacle gin, cucumbers + jalapeños, fresh lime + cucumber juice
Despite being more well known for their beers, Euclid Hall offers an interesting if short selection of cocktails. The Picoso packs some serious heat and I could actually feel the warmth spread through my body as I drank this. The drink was quite refreshing but would have been perfect if it was served ice cold.

Ayinger Brau Weisse - Algebra | Still approachable, more flavor, more complexity
In keeping with the math theme, the restaurant divides their beer list in terms of complexity going from Arithmetic, to Quantum Mathematics. I chose to start with something easy and the Ayinger fit the bill nicely. A classic hefeweizen, the beer has a slight malty sweetness but nothing particularly obscure or unexpected.

Roasted Duck Poutine - duck gravy, black pepper, Wisconsin cheddar curds,
The poutine was one of the driving forces behind my decision to try Euclid Hall. I ended up selecting the duck poutine and if that weren't enough I opted for the "Duck Duck Goose" supplement, a mix of egg, foie gras, and duck confit. The ideal putine strikes a delicate balance between the dark braised richness of the gravy and the twang of the cheese curds, this was definitely tilted way over the top in favor of the duck. The fries were also a bit well done for my tastes, I prefer a crisp exterior but more porous interior to soak up the goodness of the gravy.

Sausage Tasting - Beef Short Rib Kielbasa, Uncensored Hoppwurst, Boudin Noir, Bavarian Veal Weisswurst
The sausages are all ground and cased in house . With all the foods coming at once there wasn't really enough time to really appreciate the differences between the sausages. My obvious favorite was the hoppwurst the melty bits of cheddar added a nice depth and sharpness to the meat.

Crispy Buffalo-Style Pig Ears - ranch dressing, celery sticks
For me, that textural interplay between the skin and cartilage is key, but Chef Pierce explained that he removed the cartilage because the clientele in Denver didn't care for it. Without the contrast, the only contrast to the fatty tissue was the batter which didn't quite have enough buffalo flavor for my tastes. Still an enjoyable snack but just not what I was expecting.

Bruléed Bone Marrow - demi glace, sherry reduction, grilled sourdough
This was a gift from our waitress and I am sincerely grateful for it. I enjoy eating raw fat more than most, but that oleaginous mouth feel and buttery flavor can be a bit much even for me. The bite of the raw shallot and delicately saccharine shell on the were vital in tempering the richness of the marrow.

Asparagus and Coconut Soup - pureed asparagus soup, coconut milk foam, chopped scallop and avocado, micro cilantro
This was another of the evening's standouts, the cool frothy top is ever so slightly sweet and creamy, the ideal foil to the hot vegetal savoriness of the asparagus. The rare scallops and avocado provide an extra layer of textural nuances

Chicken and Waffles - Petaluma chicken paillard, sourdough waffles, pure maple syrup, salty walnuts
I find myself compelled to order chicken and waffles whenever I see it on the menu. The flavors were spot on but I question the decision to serve the chicken paillard style. A thicker moister cut of chicken would have gone a long way towards offsetting the dryness of this dish.

Oyster Shells and Shots - on the half shell with pina colada sorbet, shooters with yuzu-30/30 tequila margarita
Raw oysters usually open a meal but the sorbet and shooters made very effective intermezzos. The oysters on the half shell were bracingly sweet with a creeping brine, a great choice for those intimidated by the flavor of raw oysters. The shooters had a nicely balanced blend of tequila and citrus while the oyster provided the salty finish.

Ommegang Abbey Ale Dubbel - Calculus | Pushing the envelope
I would have picked something from the quantum mathematics section to finish but I'd actually tried all those beers before. Instead I settled for an Ommegang Dubbel. Definitely a classic abbey ale the aroma is redolent of spice and ripe fruit with some sweetness thrown in. Flavor is equally quintessential with dark fig and caramel leading to a slight alcoholic burn on the back end.

Sourdough Waffle Ice Cream Sandwich - salted butterscotch ice cream, praline
This was totally different from what I was expecting. The ice cream was surprisingly subdued while the disconcerting lactic tang on the waffle totally put me off this dessert.

Overall I enjoyed my time at Euclid Hall, aside from the food coming all at once, service was very attentive with the staff clearly showing a passion for what they do. While I may not have agreed with the directions the kitchen took with some courses, for the most part execution was spot on. While dishes were often hit or miss I wouldn't mind coming back to look for a few more hits and maybe sample more of their stellar beer list while I'm at it.

LQ@SK - 08/15/2011

2011-08-16T22:01:00.000-07:00

350 S Grand Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90071
(213) 617-3474

During my one visit to Bistro LQ, I was a bit put off by the overcomplicated fare, still I was saddened to hear of the restaurant's closing earlier this year. To that end I was happy to hear Laurent had "popped up" at Starry Kitchen, bringing his unconventional take on fine dining to a comfortable low-key atmosphere.

Amuse Bouche: Beaver - Vanilla, Salsify, Clementine
Juvenile humor aside, my first experience with beaver meat was actually quite impressive. The crumbled pastry provides a lovely buttery backdrop to the darkly rich meat. The beaver itself actually reminded me of a braised beef but with a gamy kick on the finish. The palate cleanser of salsify and clementine offered a delicate floral counterpoint to balance the weight of the beaver.

01: Uni Tapioca Pudding - Carlsbad Oyster, Cauliflower, Yuzu Gelee
The first course consisted of two distinct parts. The Uni Tapioca was one of Laurent's signatures at LQ and it is easy to see why with just one bite. The base of pudding is delightfully sweet really heightening the urchin's sweetness though the roe's salinity was still apparent on the finish. This was one of my companion's first experience with uni but after this I don't think it'll be her last. I was expecting the oyster to be a forceful burst of brine, but the savory essence of the cauliflower really tempered the oyster and yuzu.

02: Skatewing - Sujok, Sumac, Cucumber Yogurt Varnish
The cucumber yogurt made this dish, the bold golden streak offered a lively fresh tang they intertwined nicely with the sumac flavoring the delicate skatewing while the single streak of pomegranate added a vital fruity twang. Texturally the dish was surprisingly complex, the light flaky crust enrobes a tender fish and an earthy beef sausage.

03: Declination of Peas - Pea Guacamole, Pea Gazpacho, Pea Bacon Ragu, Sauteed Foie Gras
We were told to eat the foie first, its buttery richness coupled with the ragu reminded me of a pot pie. I followed that with the vegetal peppery pea gazpacho its grassy levity the contrast to the foie. The guacamole was enjoyable and certainly reminiscent of an avocado guac, but felt a touch simplistic. Though I enjoyed each of the three components on their own, combining them didn't really add much.

04: Veal Cheeks - Bergamot Jus, Prickly Pear, Chanterelles, Fava Beans
The final savory consisted of the most succulent veal cheek ever; tender doesn't even begin to describe it. The texture was so slick and supple it actually reminded me of a veal sweetbread. Despite being beautifully braised, the cheeks didn't feel overly heavy meaning the favas and chanterelles still came through.

05: Tonka Bean "Bread Pudding" - Shortbread Cookie, Red Currant, Rose Water Lychee Sorbet
Tonka bean is an ingredient you don't see too often and is technically banned by the FDA for its high concentrations of coumarin, an anticoagulant, that gives the bean its fragrance. The flavor is highly reminiscent of a vanilla or almond. The resulting dessert is reminiscent of a French toast, heightened with a tropical touch from the lychee.

I have to say I came away from this meal immensely satisfied. The food doesn't still displays Quenioux's trademark creativity but doesn't overreach, making it more approachable. With the event only running through the summer I'd highly recommend checking out LQ@SK while you still can.

Cholon - 08/10/2011

2011-08-11T22:04:00.000-07:00

1555 Blake Street #101
Denver, CO 80202
(303) 353-5223

During my last visit to Denver a number of people recommended Cholon but my instinctive bias towards contemporary Asian restaurants kept me from trying it. Since then, my experiences at Red Medicine and Lukshon have gone a long way towards dispelling those fears.

Old Saigon - Maker's Mark Bourbon, Thai Basil, Luxardo Cherries, Orange Bitters
This was a bit of a let down, the promising mix of basil, bourbon, and bitters ended up decidedly one note, tasting of diluted bourbon and not much else

Rice Cracker - Tomato Jam
This was a clever substitute for the traditional bread service. We were presented with a plate sized rice cracker and a small bowl of tomato jam. The cracker had a satisfying crunch but little intrinsic flavor. The tomato jam was key, the tamarind-laced sauce reminded me of a chutney: ripe, tangy, and spicy.

Chili Crab Rolls - Charred Corn Salad, Sriracha Mayo
I thought this course nicely summed up what Cholon was about, composing dishes that feel the wrapper, and vermicelli gives the dish a classic grounding, but the corn and grilled vegetables adds a distinct Southwestern flavor. Though I enjoyed the flavor of the roll, I would have liked the chili crab itself to be more apparent.

Crispy Calamari - with Lemon-Chili Aioli
The calamari itself was nicely prepared, the squid was tender with a fleshy slickness while the batter possessed a light airy crunch, but coupled with the sauce it tasted disconcertingly like a McNugget.

Pork Belly Pot Stickers - Ginger Mustard
If I were judging this against a classic gyoza, it would have been fairly good, but I was expecting a burst of weighty fat that just never materialized. The sauce was almost cloying in its sweetness; pity because I quite enjoyed the stinging mustard bite.

Curried Duck Spring Rolls - Cilantro Yogurt
I wasn't sure what to expect with these rolls, but it certainly wasn't a heavy muddled mess. The duck hash had almost no flavor, totally subsumed by the curry. The dish's one saving grace was the cilantro yogurt, its bright color, vegetal tang, and light spice reminding me of a mint chuntey.

Full Moon Margarita - Republic Plata Organic Tequila, Sombra Mezcal, Tamarind, Chili-Salt
This was a much more impressive drink, the accompaniments reminded me of Pulparindo, a spiced Tamarind candy, albeit tempered by the darkly smoky savor of the mezcal.

Vietnamese Grilled Chicken Wings
The wings were grilled nicely, very tender with an apparent char, but the heavy-handed sweetness rendered these extremely pedestrian.

Kaya Toast - Coconut Jam, Egg Cloud
This was a gentrified version of the classic Singaporean snack, the nicely toasted bread tastes heavily of coconut and pandan. The third element, egg, is presented as a foamy dip that tempers the sweetness with a delicate savory tinge.

Asian Charcuterie Plate - Foie Gras Mousse, Duck Terrine, Pickles
Not sure what made this "Asian." The liver mousse was solid but unspectacular while the duck terrine tasted like a nondescript compressed meat. The pickles were definitely non-tradition but I think a light kim chi might have been better than the florid mix of clove and anise. This course could have been much better if it was fashioned off a banh mi.

Green Papaya Salad - Tamarind Sorbet, Long Beans
My two previous experiences with green papaya salad have been absolutely stellar. This felt much rougher around the edges. The texture was jarringly hard and the sauce tasted overly astringent.

Yellow Curry Mussels - Pork Belly, French Fries
Like the crab spring roll, this course nicely incorporated European and Asian elements. Basically a Thai take on the a French-bistro staple, moules frites, the mussels come in a thick lemongrass curry broth. As with the pot stickers, the pork belly is fairly transparent but the tinge of porcine richness was a lovely foil for the brine of the mussels

Beef Tartare - Chinese Mustard, Tapioca Puffs
My complaint with beef tartare is its lack of creativity, that isn't a problem here as the meat is redolent of nuoc mam. Sadly the mealy texture of the beef just put me off this course.

Coconut and Banana Leaf Sorbet - Passion Fruit Seltzer
Beautifully balanced acidity, spice, and sweetness, this dessert was a strong finish to a very mixed meal. The two sorbets are remarkably flavorful and distinct. The banana leaf reminded me of a floral fruity green tea while the coconut had a heavy tropical sweetness. The seltzer provides an effervescent tang and the crispy ginger cracker adds a scintilla of herbal spice.

It feels like upscale Asian food has gotten a new lease on life the past few years, going away from tired fusion staples and emphasizing more authentic flavors. Cholon seems to be designed in that vein, and there are definitely flashes of promise. Unfortunately most of the food tasted overly sweet and blunt; a bit more acid or spice would have gone a long way. Perhaps the flavor is geared towards the Denver market but, speaking practically, I don't think this would have passed muster back home.

RnD Table - 07/31/2011

2011-08-06T23:41:00.000-07:00

3003 W Olympic Blvd, Ste 103
Los Angeles, CA 90006
(213) 389-7008

RnD Table is the new underground restaurant by Master Chef Season 1 contestant Mike Kim and his partner Conrad Malaya. With his boundless energy and upbeat personality, Kim established himself as one of the show's more likable characters. After finishing sixth on the show, Kim successfully made the transition from the front of the house to the kitchen; parlaying his experience into a position at the Bazaar. Like the name implies, RnD's mission is to provide a forum for young chefs to showcase their own menu. The first few dinners hosted by the duo will feature Mike's contemporary Korean-inspired fare, but the goal is to find other chefs to take the lead at subsequent dinners (think Test Kitchen but with less established chefs).

01: Croquette & Dumpling "Mandu" - potato and beef croquette, cabbage slaw, oxtail dumpling, shimeiji, purslane, siracha
The first course consisted of a fried dumpling paired with a croquette made by the owners of Persimmon. With a nice crispy exterior and starchy savory interior, the croquette was enjoyable for what it was, but didn't really fit with the refinement of the rest of the dish. The oxtail dumpling was another story entirely, like a fried xiao long bao; it burst upon mastication, spilling a heady oxtail broth on the palate. The slaw was key, its acidic tinge keeping the dumplings from feeling too heavy.

02: Yellowtail Sashimi "Hwe Dup Bop" - yellowtail, "chogochujang," perilla leaf, nori, arugula, asian pear, masago
Mike called Hwe Dup Bop to a Korean version of chirashizushi, but the sheer variety on the plate was a far cry from simple fish over rice. I was actually a bit overwhelmed by the plate, its vivid colors and sheer variety of ingredients seemed daunting and almost too ambitious. The fish was deliciously fresh and worked well with the different elements; though I would have liked to make sense of the dish as a cohesive whole.

Intermezzo: Granita "Dongchimi" - lobak radish, asian pear, fresno pepper, green onion, tomato heart
Dongchimi refers to a kimchi that comes in a light brine which has been re-imagined as a frozen palate cleanser. I was initially wary but the kim chi was well balanced while the onion and tomato giving the dish a bright freshness. Though I enjoyed the savory pungency, I think this would have been a bit more effective between the last two savories which were notably heavier.

03: Chicken Risotto "Samgyetang" - chicken breast, sweet rice, jujube, ginseng, onion, garlic
The instant this was brought to the table, I was hit with a heartwarming savory aroma that got my mouth watering. The rice and chicken possesses a straightforward savory weight that isn't particularly elaborate but feels immediately familiar and comfortable. The chicken itself was beautifully prepared the perfectly smooth disks were wonderfully moist with a faithful and pure flavor while a small chip of crispy chicken skin finished the dish with a punchy saltiness.

04: Braised Shortrib "Galbi Jjim" - shortrib, ancho chile-soy, pico de gallo, carrot, cilantro-lime crema, corriander tortilla chips
The final dish was a homage to Chef Kim's mixed heritage. His mother hails from a region in Korea famous for their Galbi Jjim mixed with the Mexican food prevalent in his Western upbringing. The beef itself was fairly tender while the flavor leaned towards a pervasive sweetness and though there was a hint of spice, I would have preferred a bit more bite. The accouterments of pico de gallo and cilantro lime provided a countervailing southwestern levity and the chips were a nice textural contrast to the short rib.

05: Watermelon "Soobak" - carbonated watermelon, honeydew cake, coconut milk, yuzu vanilla gel, basil
While Mike was the driving force behind the savories, the dessert was almost entirely Conrad's creation. Despite having very little experience with pastry, Conrad did an exceedingly good job with this one. The honeydew cake provides a supportive base for the other elements, aerated and cooked in the microwave, the cake smelled of sweet melon and had an airy supple sponginess. The watermelon is saturated with a tingly vibrant succulence and the basil adds a savory fragrant tinge to the dish.

Gift: Black & Tan - stout brownie, butterscotch ale ganache, salted pretzels
These were provided by Batch from Scratch, the new gourmet bakery started by Master Chef Season 2 contestant Esther Kang. These were some of the softest brownies I've ever had, with the base almost melting in my hands. The pretzels were key, giving the dessert some crunch as well as a much needed savory contrast. While the brownie was quite good, I wish the beer was more apparent as it would have made the dessert truly distinctive.

While Mike and Candace were handled the front of the house during the meal, at the end of the night the chefs all came out so they could get their well-deserved recognition. From left-to-right: Minh, Conrad, Will, Mike, Semi, and Candace.

Though I was immediately intrigued by the menu, I wasn't sure what to expect with RnD Table, but I have to say Chefs Kim and Malaya have shown some real promise. In their forth dinner service, the two have managed to execute an exciting ambitious menu and provide a polished dining experience. The duo have worked tirelessly over the past three services to evolve their dishes. Though there are probably still some minor tweaks to be made, I still came away quite satisfied with my time at RnD.

Mike has worked tirelessly to bring his vision to life; continually experimenting and refining dishes all while working 6 days a week at the Bazaar is no mean feat. While I applaud the effort the staff at RnD have put in to their restaurant, it raises the question: will future one-off chefs be able to come up to speed on a much abbreviated time frame. Then again Test Kitchen faced similar problems but remained one of LA's hottest tickets while the restaurant was open.

Ludobites 7.0 - 08/03/2011

2011-08-03T23:37:00.000-07:00

227 E 9th Street
Los Angeles, CA 90015
(213) 624-7272

Trying to get reservations at Ludobites is often an exercise in frustration. Though the process was much smoother this time around, the reservations sold out in one minute and I was unable to secure a spot for opening night. Out of sheer desperation I actually went to the restaurant hoping to find a last minute cancellation. After a couple false starts we found a couple who had a pair of extra seats who graciously allowed us to join their party. To Aly and Ernesto: my deepest thanks for your generosity!

Onion Tart - Bottarga
First up was a satisfying onion tart. Soft and melty, the tart might have been a bit monolithic were it not for the bottarga. The roe's salty funk deftly undercut the sweetness of the caramelized onions with an undercurrent of salinity.

Tomato Soup - Carrots, Squid
Part of Ludo's mystique is his ability to pair seemingly random ingredients into a cohesive dish and that is exactly what he's done here. The soup is smooth and creamy with a slight tang. The carrots provide a sense of vegetal toothsomeness while the squid adds a delightfully slick tender texture to the mix.

Dorade Ceviche - Cucumber Water, Cornichons, Borrage Flower
This was a holdover from Ludobites America at Casa Pulido though I felt the flavors were a bit more refined this time. Again the fish plays a supporting role, adding substance to the ephemeral freshness of the cucumber water. The key improvement came from the flowers, which added a shiso-like zest to the ceviche.

Pig's Head Compressed and Cheddar - Barbeque Gelée
This was one of my favorite dishes of the night. The compressed head is a smorgasbord of gooey offaly bits that could easily stand on its own. I was a bit wary of the gelée, a sinus clearing mix of vinegar and spice, but found the tang helped to cut the weight of the head and cheese..

Egg - Sea Urchin, Caviar, Champagne Beurre Blanc
I envisioned something like Providence's egg and sea urchin dish but I should have known Ludo would forge his own path. The eggs were like a creamy scrambled egg with the sea urchin blended in seamlessly. The result was a weighty take on the classic pairing of egg and caviar with a subtle touch of smoke and brine.

Lavenger Ginger Lemonade
I think I've found my new summer drink. The lavender and ginger are understated to start, but kick in on the finish lending this drink a delightful spicy herbaceousness.

Salt Cod Panna Cotta - Whipped Fingerling Potato, Smoked Tapioca, Black Olive Bread
Salt cod is not known for its subtlety but it was surprisingly muted in this dish. Given my ambivalence toward the stuff, I was surprised to find myself craving more of its oily brine. Instead what I got from this dish was an intensely creamy off-putting buttery heft.

Plancha Tandoori Octopus - Yogurt, Cauliflower, Grapefruit
Ludo's octopus is always a thing of beauty and this was no different. The exterior bore a light caramelized crunch and heady char while the interior was immensely tender and flavorful; perfect with the tangy contrast of the yogurt.

Foie Gras Ravioli - Crispy Kimchi, Sake-Black Truffle Cream
Foie gras is such a versatile tool in Ludo's hands whether it is served in a sandwich or in a bowl of soup or even slathered with barbecue sauce. The ravioli was a nice touch, the fatty liver almost liquefies in the pouch, each bite explodes a mouth filling savoriness. The kimchi showed a remarkable restraint adding a pungency that hovers at the edge of the palate but nonetheless manages to cut the richness of the foie.

Duck - Cherry, Spice Saucisse, Beets, Radish
This might be the best duck I've ever had at LudoBites. The duck itself was rich and moist; needing no accompaniment in order to shine. Even more impressive, the dish was equally good as a whole, the beets and cherry adding a light ripeness that contrasted sharply with the forceful bitterness of the radish.

Èpoisse Cheese Risotto - Hazelnut, Egg Yolk, Herb Salad
This entire meal has been an exercise in restraint with many courses featuring aggressive ingredients that have been tempered to fit within the confies of the dish. Nowhere is this balance more evident than with the risotto. Èpoisses is one of my favorite cheeses, but its pungency certainly doesn't lend itself to playing well with others. Here the cheese has been harnessed to give the risotto a delightful richness and creamy body but one that still allows the toasty hazelnuts and aromatic herbs to shine.

Roasted Beef - Horseradish Cream, Green Beans, Dried Mullet
The final savory reminded me of a refined prime rib. The thinly sliced beef seemed to quiver on the plate and dissolve into a rich beefy vapor on the tongue.

Peach Melba Vacherin - Lavender
Another lovely summer course, the peach itself was an immaculately pure expression of the fruit, jammy and sweet that didn't feel overly saccharin thanks to the wonderful floral depth of the lavender.

Crustless Lemon Tart - Limoncello, Thyme
The second dessert was an almost savory lemon tart. The bracing tang of the citrus was present though secondary to the alcoholic burn of the limoncello and savory flavor of the thyme.

This was probably the smoothest opening night meal I've had at Ludo, with the food coming out promptly but not overly fast. This marks my eleventh visit to Ludobites yet I still find myself surprised and excited by the food. Ludo has managed to find that sweet spot between familiarity and creativity. Judging by the sheer demand for seats, I'm not alone in that opinion.

Blanca - 07/30/2011

2011-07-31T16:11:00.000-07:00

437 S Highway 101 # 301
Solana Beach, CA 92075-2221
(858) 792-0072

After having a superb dinner at The Restaurant at Rancho Valencia I resolved to make it down to San Diego more often. On my own, I probably would have dismissed Blanca out of hand, labeling it more of a trendy restaurant with a clubby atmosphere and live music designed to cater to tourists. However, during the aforementioned dinner all of the SD natives cited Blanca as the area's best restaurant and the fact that one of them works at Addision speaks volumes about the endorsement.

Reviews on Blanca are fairly mixed though I suspect turmoil in the kitchen between late 2009 and early 2010 had a lot to do with this. The restaurant's first CdC, Wade Hageman, left in fall 2009 and his replacement, Jason Neroni, only lasted five months. Since summer of 2010, the kitchen has been led by Gavin Schmidt who has emphasized a progressive farm-to-table approach to Californian cuisine. Prior to Blanca, Chef Schmidt's resume is centered almost entirely in San Francisco where he was sous chef at Aqua, exec chef at Campton Place, and most impressively CdC at COI, which remains my favorite restaurant in the city.

Amuse: Bacon Donut - maple whiskey sabayon
Wonderfully airy with a delicate crispness the dish reminded me of French toast with a savory note from the bacon coming into play on the finish.

01: Tasting of House Made Charcuterie
NV, Louis de Grenelle, brut rose
First up was a spontaneous sextet of charcuteries including: duck liver mousse, Pate de Campagne, Chicharon, Copa & Sopressata, lamb speck, and a foie gras torchon. The table favorite was the Chicharon, delightfully crunchy with a flavor reminiscent of Chinese roast pork skin, a kiss of honey gives the skin a very slight sweetness. The torchon was another high point; the artichoke and licorice balancing the rich velvety foie with a bitter vegetal temper.

02: Vegetable Composition - castelventrano olives, citrus vinaigrette, yogurt and chamomile spheres
NV, Louis de Grenelle, brut rose
Next up was a beautifully composed plate of fresh vegetables with a slight molecular touch in the form of two small spheres. Oddly rather than eating the spheres whole, we were told to rupture them and let the liquid mix with the citrus vinaigrette. The vegetables were crisp bright and varied, a playful melange of bitter, tangy, and sweet while the dressing added a lovely herbal tone to the mix.

03: Still Life of Local Waters - spot prawn, uni, oyster, seaweed, dashi, smoked avocado
2009, Perolla, vermentino
The still life is one of Chef Schmidt's signature dishes. In keeping with his emphasis on eating local, Chef Schmidt forages for the seaweed used in this course. Our server likened this dish to a tide pool and visually it reminded me of the Oysters Under Glass from COI. A wonderful course all around, the dashi and avocado gives the dish a palpable savory tang, but the absurdly fresh seafood remains the star of the show. It was a testament to the dish that the table was evenly split as to which shellfish was their favorite.

04: Cherry Tomato Salad - bay scallops, tomato, sorbet, almond, gazpacho
2009, Hans Wirsching, Silvaner
Though called a salad, this course was actually more of a deconstructed soup. The "dressing" is actually traditional gazpacho and the vegetables were variants of the soup's ingredients. The result is the expected freshness and levity married to a slate of disparate textures. The scallops added a meaty salinity, though the vegetables could have stood on their own.

05: Grilled Asparagus - burrata, lemon, fried hen egg, chocolate mint
2008, domaine Saint-Francoise, Bourgogne
This was another example of simplicity and freshness resulting in a beautiful vegetable course. The asparagus provided a robust vegetal smokiness to the milder burrata and egg while the gentle citrus twang kept the dish from being too one note. Fittingly the texture was equally complex ranging from the crisp breaded egg, to the tender asparagus and smooth creamy burrata.

06: Charred Yellowtail - abalone, young zuchini, ginger, kimchi, basil
2009, Ken Forrester, Chenin Blanc
The fish looked a bit pink for yellowtail but it was cooked beautifully nonetheless. Delightfully clean and fleshy the fish needed the accompaniments to give it some flavor. What impressed me the most was the sauce, a restrained vadouvan base mixed with spicy ginger and a distinct funk from the kimchi. The result was a curry that draws inspiration from both Indian and East Asian sources.

07: Grilled Octopus - brown rice, artichoke, plum, cinnamon
2007, Robert Weil, Riesling Kabinett
Overall this was one of the weaker courses of the evening. I would have liked a bit more firmness from the rice and a for there to be a bit more of the octopus. The brine of the mollusk is apparent in the ink and when paired with the plum resulted in a disjointed savory sweetness.

08: Olive Oil Poached Baja Halibut - corn, shiitake mushrooms, toasted wheat, tomato uni sauce
2009, Chateau Musar, Musar Jeaune
This was one of the best halibut presentations I've had in quite some time. The fish had a rare pinkish tinge and fittingly succulent texture deftly balanced by the coarse grainy sweetness from the amalgam of corn and wheat. The mixture of tomato and uni lends the fish a tang as well as a suitably weighty gravitas. One of my companions suggested adding a bit of salt which effectively heightened the other flavors on the plate.

09: A Day on the Farm - soil, seed, sprout, root, flower
2008, Carr Vineyards, Cabernet Franc
I was surprised to see another composed vegetable plate but quickly came to appreciate the chance to compare the differences between the raw and cooked preparations. The day on the farm was noticeably sweeter yet at the same time conveyed a satisfying savory weight with subdued residual herbaceousness.

10: Grilled Grass Fed Beef Brisket - corn puree, grilled apricot, roasted padron peppers
2007, Terra Valentine, Cabernet Sauvignon
Simply labeling this grilled belies the amount of work that went into the meat which was smoked for two hours and sous vided for 72 more prior to being finished on the grill giving the brisket a satisfying multifaceted texture. Unfortunately lady luck conspired against me on this course and my roasted padron pepper was intensely spicy and completely overshadowed the other flavors on the plate.

11: Lamb Roasted in Hay - roasted eggplant, potatoes, and wheatgrass emulsion
2008, Ispiri, Cabernet Sauvignon
Our final savory course was a single spar off a rack of lamb. The meat itself was typical of lamb, but instead of the green grassy flavors I was expecting I got an almost truffle like element out of the dish.

12: Goat Cheese Semifreddo - melon granite, pink peppercorn meringue, fizzy melons
NV, Valdo, Prosecco
Our first dessert came out on lovely frozen metal blocks, the flavors were varied and complex with the savory goat cheese rising to the fore, a bright interlude of sweet juicy melon, and finishing with the floral bite of the peppercorns.

13: Blueberries and Corn - polenta chiffon, corn panna cotta, blueberry sorbet, caramel corn
NV, Dog Fishead, Midas Touch, Ancient Ale
The second dessert was substantially heavier, sweet and cakey with flourishes of ripe berry and a savory undercurrent from the corn and polenta.

Macarons - Lemon Meringue, Strawberry
The airy sugary exterior dissolved quickly yielding a jammy sweet core. These were a gift from Stephanie, ironically enough it was her birthday, fortunately the restaurant came to our rescue.

Petit Fours
The meal ended with a pair of chocolates: a white chocolate with kaffir and lemongrass and a dark chocolate with peach liquer and sea salt.

While I haven't been to enough restaurants in San Diego to dub Blanca the best, the restaurant certainly makes a strong case for itself. Chef Schmidt's focus on seasonal local ingredients pays huge dividends with the freshness and flavor evident in every course. Chef Schmidt puts his past training to good use, incorporating avant-garde flourishes that give provide a cerebral complex feel without compromising the food's integrity.

Drago Centro - 07/20/2011

2011-07-25T00:32:00.000-07:00

525 South Flower Street, Suite #120
Los Angeles, CA 90071
(213) 228-8998

Drago Centro has been on my list of places to try for quite some time, but other commitments and the generally lackluster comments, particularly in regards to the service, kept me away until now. The restaurant is one of several restaurants owned by Chef Celestino Drago and his family. Day-to-day the kitchen is run by CdC Ian Gresik, a Patina alum who spent time studying in Italy, France, Greece and Spain before returning stateside and taking the reins at Centro.

orange blossom special - karlsson’s vodka, harry’s strawberries, orange blossom, rose water, fresh orange, black peppercorn
Drago Centro offers a fairly contemporary selection of cocktails in addition to a couple of Italian classics. We opted for two of their newer offerings. Despite the name, the strongest flavor actually came from the berries. The drink was enjoyable though I would have liked to see more from the black peppercorn.

so fresh & so clean - nolet’s gin, crème yvette, lillet blanc, white balsamic, fresh cucumbers
I was going to try one of the bourbon based cocktails until the waiter recommended this cocktail. Vividly pink color aside, the drink was well balanced, with fresh acidity balanced by a bitter herbaceousness.

Amuse: mozzarella - pine nuts, zucchini cream
The purpose of an amuse is to excite the diner's palate for the meal to come and in that regard this was an abject failure. The individual ingredients were fairly boring and the combination felt equally boring not to mention clumsy.

01: l'insalata - prosciutto, bocconcini mozzarella, compressed melon
venica & venica, sauvignon, friuli, 2009
The first course built off the classic Italian combination of melon and prosciutto; the succulent salty sweet duo really coming into focus against the nutty vegetal arugula. The mozzarella and bread like croutons added weight but I would have preferred the salad without them.

02: il branzino - white sea bass, mussels, clams, baby vegetables
la monacesca, verdicchio, marche, 2009
Branzino or Mediterranean Sea Bass is immensely popular in Italian restaurants so it was no surprise to see it on the tasting menu at Drago. The fish was perfectly cooked flaky dense and nicely browned on the surface. The fish was lightly seasoned but most of the flavor came from the broth. Infused with the umami richness of the shellfish, the stock built nicely on the subdued natural brine of the fish.

03: i conchiglioni - conchiglioni, snails, herbs, garlic, brown butter
castello di ama, sangiovese rosato, toscana, 2009
I quite enjoyed this dish, though cooking snails with butter, garlic, and herbs is more in keeping with French technique than Italian. The large conch shaped shells felt a touch undercooked but still served as a suitable wrapper for the heady sauce and earthy molluscan bounty.

Supplement: il risotto al tarfuto - summer truffle and mushroom risotto
This was a fairly textbook straightforward of risotto, a mixed mushroom risotto with black truffle shaved table side. Our waiter sagely recommend that we mix the truffles into the dish and let the heat extract the fungi's prized essence. This proved to be one of the better truffle risottos I've had in a while; the flavors were spot on with the truffles.

04: gli gnocchi - pork belly, gnocchi, fennel, tomato cream
jermann, pinot nero, venezia giulia, 2007
The meal so far has been solid but not remarkable, this course finally reached that next level. It goes without saying the pasta itself was spot on. Dense and pliant, the gnocchi was perfect with the piquant spice of the tomato cream. The pork belly was absolutely superb as well, rich decadent and tender it provided the gravity and richness that made the dish immensely satisfying.

05: l’agnello - lamb chop, romesco sauce, panelle, cipollini onions
produttori del barbaresco, barbaresco, piemonte, 2006

The final savory was a double lamb chop; though the meat was served fairly rare but remained a touch sinewy. The lamb chop was nicely seasoned with an abiding gaminess that intertwined nicely with the romesco. The cipollini onions were a bit undercooked, giving them a spicy bite, though a sweeter flavor would have been more fitting with the rest of the course.

06: il tiramisu - tiramisu coupe, espresso biscotti
elio perrone, sourgal, moscato d’asti, piemonte, 2010
The dessert was fairly simple, classic tiramisu with the biscotti adding some much needed texture.

Though the meal didn't astound me, Drago Centro turned out better than I expected. The food was generally enjoyable, nothing truly progressive but well-executed throughout. Service was actually quite smooth, some small mistakes but nothing that detracted from the meal and certainly nothing like the horror stories that I've heard. If you ever find yourself in Downtown with a craving for Italian I'd recommend giving Drago Centro a try.

Ikko - 07/16/2011

2011-07-16T14:55:00.000-07:00

735 Baker St, Ste C
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
(714) 556-7822

I've been on something of a Japanese/OC kick of late and with that combination it was only a matter of time until I found myself at Ikko; a contender (albeit a divisive one), for best the best sushi restaurant in Orange County. The restaurant The restaurant can be difficult to find, situated in a dark seedy strip mall complete with adult novelty store. Even Ikko's exterior seems vaguely foreboding with its wooden facade complete lack of windows.

The interior is par for the course, a long L shaped wooden sushi bar surrounded by a handful of tables. The dark wood motif of the decor is countered by bright spotlights above the bar which fittingly illuminates the most important part of the restaurant. Behind the counter are two chefs, the elder gentleman is Ikko-san and the younger chef is Take who took care of us this evening.

The first thing that stands out about the menu is the presence of intricately prepared dishes utilizing ingredients not commonly offered at Japanese restaurants. We opted for the $100 omakase which provided a good mix of cooked and raw courses.

01: Scallop - w/ Uni & Black Truffle
Every aspect of this dish was spot on, from the sublime earthy musk of the truffle to the sheer freshness of the seafood. The pungency of the truffles is coupled with a rising sweetness from the uni and scallop and perfectly accented by the savory sprig of chive and a fragrant pink peppercorns.

02: Ikko-made Yuzu Cheese - Cherry Tomato & Fried Wild Arugula Caprese
Next up was a delightful spoonful of caprese, the lithe vegetables are complimented by a suitably weighty cheese infused with the resonant essence of fresh yuzu.

03: Edamame Mousse - Stuffed Fried Potato Tube
This turned out to be one of the best dishes of the night. The mousse is expectedly bright and vegetal while the fried potato's prodigious crunch provides an emphatic counterpoint to the edamame. The ikura was a bit lost but the potato had enough savory flavor, making the roe unnecessary.

04:Sashimi - Porgy, Hamachi, Bonito, King Mackerel
First up was a Porgy which looked and tasted like snapper and according to Google is indeed one of the fishes called served in the states under the name "Tai." The yellowtail was easily the best of the bunch, oily fatty belly meat perfect with the chive's zest. The bonito conveyed a smoky sapor that paired nicely with the spicy bite of the ginger. The last fish was a labeled as King Mackerel which was quite the break from the typical mackerel, soft fleshy with only an elusive hint of the characteristic oily flavor.

05: Wild Arugula Salad - w/ Smoked Chashu Berkshire Pork Cheek, Balsamic Garlic Vinaigrette
Quite the departure from the typical chashu pork, the pervasive smoky aroma and supple fleshy texture reminded me of a cold smoked dry rub BBQ. I could have done with a bit less of the arugula, the a few leaves provided an effective bitter contrast to the pork, but too many overwhelmed the meat altogether.

06: Chawanmushi - w/ Sea Urchin Sauce & Black Truffle
The egg custard came with more urchin and black truffle, not that I'm complaining though. The porcelain egg custard was delightfully soft and silky; the perfectly absorbent base for the savory truffle and the syrup sweetness of the uni.

07: Oven Grilled Cod - Marinated in Saikyo Miso
No omakase would be complete without some take on Nobu's classic black cod with miso. Ikko is more sparing with the miso leading to a fish that was still tender and flaky but a slight bit firmer than the norm. More importantly the fish wasn't overly saccharine and I could still taste a satisfying char on the fish.

08: Simmered Beef Tongue - w/ Miso Demi-Glace Sauce
The guest next to me raved about this dish and he was absolutely right. The meat wasn't like your typical cooked beef tongue, succulent fatty and exuding a heady beefy richness with a touch of miso sweetness. Kevin likened this to Chinese red braised beef but I thought the flavor profile was more along the lines of a stew.

09: Fresh Asparagus Wrapped Jumbo Shrimp Tempura - w/ Tentsuyu Mousse
My initial bite tasted a bit astringent but in subsequent bite the flavor of the shellfish helped to balance things out. The sauce is a traditional tempura dipping sauce in mousse form, which added a creamy twist and highlighted the hot/cold interplay between the tempura and the sauce.

10: Miso Marinated Angus Beef Belly Cube Steak - w/ Wasabi, Mustard, and Yuzu Kosyo
Compared to the tongue we had just a couple courses earlier, this seemed almost laughably simple. The use of miso was beginning to get a bit tiresome though I still enjoyed the a slick chewy mouth feel of the meat and the three sauces did inject some excitement into the dish.

11: Amaebi - Sweet Shrimp
I knew we were in for a treat when I saw Take scooping innards out the shrimp head to make a sauce for the nigiri. The result was one of the best sweet shrimp I've had in a long while. The shrimp was perfectly snappy and sweet while the sauce exhibited a wonderful offaly richness without any jarring metallic flavor. My only complaint was the amount of sauce which soaked through the lightly packed rice making a mess of things even though I ate this with my fingers.

12: Tsubugai - Whelk
This was my first time having Whelk, a type of sea snail, at a sushi restaurant. The texture is quite unique, not as dense as abalone or mirugai, but still presenting a snappy, grippy, almost cartilaginous texture.

13: Kasabo - Sting Fish
Our waitress called this Kasabo, or sting fish. Supposedly the fish causes a light numbing effect, similar to fugu when ingested but I failed to notice it. If anything the fish reminded me of a snapper, light clean and soft.

14: Seared Toro - Fatty Tuna
What to say, buttery soft and it dissolves on the tongue, I would have liked to try the raw preparation but I was still satisfied with this.

15: Miso Soup - w/ Amaebi Head
Given that Take had pulled out everything of value from the head, it made sense to make soup from the remnants as the shell still had enough flavor to give the soup a light oceany twang.

16: Iberico Pork
This is the first time I've seen Iberico pork nigiri style. The char-tinged savoriness is reminiscent of a seared toro or seared wagyu though the texture is a bit slicker and I definitely parallels to the more common Jamon Iberico.

17: Tamago - Egg
Ikko does their tamago with a light brush of savory sauce which highlighted the eggy funk of the tamago.

18: Black Sesame Ice Cream - w/ Hot Coffee & Sesame Seed Paste
I always love sesame desserts but this was a bit of a let down. Aside from the contrasting temperatures, the coffee completely overwhelmed the sesame on the palate.

19: Black Soy Bean Vanilla Ice Cream - w/ "Kuromitsu" Syrup & "Kinako" Soy Bean Powder
The second dessert was absolutely sublime, the ice cream was decidedly thick but soft while the creamy vanilla in conjunction with the caramelized sweetness of the Kuromitsu and the nutty Kinako reminded me of a Japanese inspired Snickers bar.

So is Ikko the best in OC? I think the answer is a qualified yes. Ikko is certainly no slouch when it comes to traditional nigiri, though I'd probably give a slight nod to Oshima or Nana-san if we were talking sushi only. Ikko sets itself apart though its kitchen; deftly incorporating French techniques but doing so thoughtfully and in a way that still maintains the integrity of the food. The result is a sushi restaurant where the cooked dishes delight as much as the raw fish does; that isn't something I can say for many of Ikko's peers.

Ramen Bull - 07/06/2011

2011-07-10T00:22:00.000-07:00

8718 W 3rd St
Los Angeles, CA 90048
(310) 205-0124

Bredbar popup maestro, Noriyuki Sugie, is at it again, this time with a summer long ramen popup. Ramen has long been one of my favorite comfort foods and I seriously lamented missing the Yatai Ramen popup last year which offered a gentrified take on classic ramen as well as unique contemporary ramen creations. Therefore, I was happy to hear Chef Noriyuki Sugie would be doing a new ramen pop-up this summer called Ramen Bull that focuses exclusively on ramen made with beef in place of the traditional pork.

Being at BreadBar means that Ramen Bull is strictly BYOB so we chose to bring a selection of pale ales, thinking the bitterness would be the perfect way to cut the weight of the ramen. Despite not serving alcohol, Ramen Bull does have some intriguing and pure house made hibiscus and pineapple sodas.

Fried Ramen - Sea Salt
The meal kicked off with a small snack of crunchy ramen bits covered in sea salt. Dipped in vinegar then fried, the flavor was reminiscent of Doritos chips meshed with a sharp acidity on the finish.

Beef Tongue
Nori-san asked if he could bring us a side order of his beef tongue to which we happily agreed. Though I was hoping for the more robust flavor of a yakiniku style tongue, Nori described the preparation as a French style, braised then thinly sliced which usually results in an immensely tender but fairly bland tongue. This preparation was a combination of the two, with the silky texture of a braised tongue but laced an oily undercurrent of buttery char.

Short Rib Ramen
Though the rich flavor of the meat is apparent, the soup also carries a slightly bitter smack and as a result the overall effect was somewhat more restrained than I expected The noodles here were a thin straight wheat variety reminiscent of a very al dente angel hair. All of the bowls came with classic ramen accoutrements including: a delicious marinated egg complete with semi-molten yolk as well as wood ear mushrooms and scallions.

Ox Tail Ramen
This was probably my favorite of the bunch. The meat itself was falling off the bone and lent the broth a robustly dark sweetness as well as a sharp meaty tang. This bowl utilized what I consider the more traditional crinkled style ramen noodle, similar to the previous bowl but a tad bit softer and with a slightly more toothsome feel.

Spicy Ramen
Easily the heaviest of the four bowls I sampled. Though I enjoyed the previous two bowls, I found the simplicity of the ground beef more fitting to a ramen dish. The broth is brimming with an oily heartiness and creeping heat both of which are well-matched to the weighty thick noodle.

Corned Beef Ramen
Noticeably softer and slicker than the rest; the noodles were a wide flat variety made from organic Canadian flour rather than the traditional wheat. The corned beef was a bit tough for my tastes though I appreciated how the savory peppery bite of the meat seemed to permeate the broth making this the most cohesive of the four bowls.

Ramen has never been about refinement and balance instead it revels in its street food origins. Though purists might decry the lack of pork-based menu offerings, I appreciated the change of pace as well as the deeper more concentrated meatiness of the beef-based broth. With Ramen Bull, Chef Sugie manages to blend flourishes of refinement yet maintain the integrity and informality so key to a good ramen-ya.

Nana San - 07/02/2011

2011-07-05T17:43:00.000-07:00

3601 Jamboree Rd, Ste 15B
Newport Beach, CA 92660
(949) 474-7373

I do my best to keep abreast of new restaurant openings, so I find it difficult to believe that I'm only hearing about Nana San two years after it first opened. The restaurant is owned by Goro, formerly the head chef at Ango-Tei. Opened by Goro's step-father Ango in 1982, Ango-Tei was likely Orange County's first high quality sushi restaurant and it remained well regarded for the 25 years that the family ran it. The family sold the restaurant in 2007 and after a 2 year hiatus opened Nana-San.

Located in the space of the now-defunct Yuki Sushi, Nana-San represents quite the upgrade, offering both high quality sushi and cooked dishes. The space has a very contemporary Japanese feel with a smooth brightly lit sushi bar and several small tables. Behind the counter are Goro, step-dad Ango, and our chef for the evening, Ken-san all three of whom have been there since the restaurant opened.

Yebisu
Suntory - The Premium Malts
Koshihikari Echigo
We started with a trio of more obscure Japanese beers, the Yebisu was a fairly middle of the road lager, while the Suntory offered up heavier notes of malty sweetness (no surprise given the name), while the Echigo was the lightest of the trio.

Sashimi - Ankimo, Maguro, Amaebi, Aji, Tai, Aoyagi
The first course was an elaborate presentation of sashimi. The plate came adorned with the skewered remains of a filleted aji as well as three still moving shrimp heads. The selection of seafood was all superb with the ankimo and amaebi being the exceptions. I feared I was looking my appreciation for ankimo, but this smooth, creamy, and above all decadent preparation reminded me of why I fell in love with the "foie gras of the sea" in the first place. Amaebi quality depends heavily on how fresh the prawns are and still moving heads foreshadowed the fleshy brine kissed glory of the meat.

Squid - soy marinated
This was the most adventurous course of the night. The texture was slick and chewy without the typical creaminess that follows and the flavor was a dark earthy sweetness that I suspect would be a bit challenging for most diners.

Aji no Hone Senbei & Amaebi Head
The shrimp heads and fish bones on the sashimi plate were more than mere decoration. After we finished with the sashimi, our waitress took the serving plate and returned with this beautifully fried bounty. The shrimp heads were superb; tinged with an almost imperceptible offal flavor from the brains and other innards. The fried mackerel bones were even better, possessing a texture similar to a cracker and a potent savoriness.

Shiro Maguro Kama - Black Cod Collar
Given that the collar is highly prized in Japanese cooking and often considered the most tender and succulent part of the fish and Black Cod is already an oily supple fish, I had high expectations for this course. The fish is seasoned with a light glaze of sweet miso, par for the course with cooked Black Cod. Where the fish really shines is the texture, ever so slightly firmer than regular black cod; I proceeded to suck the flesh from the bones with relish.

Yoshinogawa Echigo Junmai, Niigata
We almost went for one of the 1.8L bottles but then decided to stick with a 720ml bottle. The Yoshinogawa was a very crisp and clean sake with subdued notes of yeast and citrus.

Chutoro - Medium Fatty Tuna
A lean nuanced example of chutoro, texturally flawless, the fish lacked the heady richness typically associated with Toro.

Kanpachi - Amberjack
This was my favorite piece of the night, the fish is snappy, deliciously oily, and augmented by a piercing citrus-spice that lingered on the palate.

Beni Sake - Sockeye Salmon
I've never particularly cared for Sockeye salmon, though the flesh has a more complex flavor, I prefer the simplicity and richness of the more common salmon varieties.

Suzuki - Sea Bass
Next up was a lightly cooked sea bass, covered in a thin sheen of oil, the fish came with a topping of cooked shishito peppers whose smoky vegetal bitterness worked wonders with the flavor of the cooked fish.

Hirame - Halibut
This was another of the night's standouts, the pickled jalapeno adds a delightful crunch and spicy verve to the delicate whitefish.

Koban Aji - Pompano
Pompano is a relative rarity among sushi restaurants. Like most silver skinned fishes, the Koban Aji has a pronounced oiliness and texture similar to Kohada.

Hotate - Scallop
A nicely prepared scallop, the searing gives the exterior a bit of firmness and complexity while the yuzu kocho deftly compliments the mollusk's deep abiding brine.

Negi-Toro Maki - Fatty Tuna Roll
Ken-san called this "Taiwanese" Negi-toro because of the type of radish used. This course is typically served at the end of ameal to aid digestion The fish is almost secondary to the tangy crunch of the radish

Katsuo no Tataki - Seared Skipjack Tuna
By the time we finished our meal, most of the specials had sold out. The only thing left that piqued our interest was a seared bonito. The fish wasn't as rich and complex as I was expecting but the tender fish was nicely seasoned with a savory sweet tataki sauce.

Horagai - Conch
Trying to decide how to close out the meal, we wanted an order of abalone sashimi, but our chef recommended the fresh conch instead. I've never really understood why conch is so prized in Japanese cuisine, its just a giant sea snail if you think about it. This was probably the best preparation of conch yet, the meat falls somewhere between orange clam and abalone in terms of texture and the innards weren't overwhelmingly bitter. The snail is served with a deeply umami broth that heightens the natural aroma of the conch's flesh.

Mandarin Jelly
The dessert was an elegant semi-transparent cube of orange jelly, quite the departure from the typical mochi ice cream. Though personally I would have preferred something simple and sweet like green tea ice cream.

Despite starting out in Orange County, I've diverted most of my attention to culinary happenings in Los Angeles. While LA certainly has a more vibrant food scene, it does mean that sometimes truly worthy restaurants like Nana-San slip through the cracks. I was thoroughly impressed with the omakase; $50 was a steal for the quality and quantity of food we received. Ango-Tei was known for its cooked dishes, next time I may eschew the sushi offerings to see if the Kappo tradition is still alive and well at Nana-san.

Burger Parlor - 07/01/2011

2011-07-02T14:39:00.000-07:00

108 W Wilshire Ave
Fullerton, CA 92832

A "permanent popup" seems like an oxymoron, yet that is just what Chef Joseph Mahon set out to create with his Burger Parlor. Open Wednesday through Saturday for dinner, The Burger Parlor is located in the Rialto Cafe and serves up gourmet burgers and sides. While it might seem odd to envision the classically trained French chef who once ran Bastide flipping burgers, but his "Burgers at Bastide" idea actually provided the impetus for the parlor. Like any trendy burger spot, The Burger Parlor proudly displays a set of "rules." Happily the rules are there for the staff rather than to limit the choices of diners unlike some other burger places that shall remain nameless.

CHIP SHOT - Fontina/Potato Chip/Tomato Confit/Mushrooms/Arugula/Chipotle Aioli
Hard to believe, but some people in our party had had never tried potato chips on a burger. I've always enjoyed the textual crunch and added salty kick the chips provide. The creamy zip of the Fontina and the ripe tang of the tomato confit made this one of my favorites.

OLD SCHOOL - American Cheese/Lettuce/Tomato/Caramelized Onions/Secret Sauce
The old school is exactly what you'd expect from a well done burger juicy and flavorful one of my friends likened it to an In N Out burger. Still as good as it was it would be a shame to come and not try one of Mahon's more inventive creations.

O.C. - Turkey Patty/Sprouts/Marinated Carrots/Avocado/Provolone/Herb Sauce
The OC was clearly the nod to healthy eating on the menu. The flavor of the turkey and cheese turned out surprisingly well and the veggies definitely gave the burger a lighter feel than the rest. Call me old fashioned but as good as this was, I'd rather have a greasy heart stopping burger.

MAHON - Hamburger Patty/Pastrami/Swiss Cheese/Caramelized Onions/Pickles/Grain Mustard Sauce
Fittingly Mahon named the best burger after himself. While I normally like some lettuce and tomatoes in my burger for moisture, in their absence in this burger made the meat feel particularly rich and juicy. In addition, the pastrami swiss combination added an extra level of flavor without the overwhelming presence of the Smokey. The mustard was particularly effective giving the burger a nice twang heightened by the pickles.

SMOKEY - Hickory Smoked Bacon/Fried Onions/Cheddar Cheese/Bibb Lettuce/Oven Dried Tomato/Secret Sauce
The Smokey is decidedly one note compared to the other burgers but when that note is of hickory smoked bacon who am I to complain.

‘BEER BATTER’ - Onion Rings
These were some of the best onion rings I've ever tasted, the exterior was perfectly fried, thin and crisp without being excessively oily or heavy. These were so good we got a second order even though we had way too much food.

SNACK SHACK - Belgian Fries/Short Rib Chili/House Made Cheese Sauce
This was an absolute must order but I have to say I was expecting a bit more. The cheese sauce was perfectly melted but I thought the chili was a bit bland. I was expecting straight up grease pit food but got something that felt a bit more refined.

LASORDA - Pork Sausage Patty/Crispy Mozzarella/Oregano/Roasted Peppers
I liked the idea behind this burger but it felt a bit clunky to me. The fried mozzarella needed a softer consistency, to mesh better with the pork instead of feeling like a mozzarella stick added in as an afterthought.

SLOPPY JOE - Ground Beef Chili/Cumin/Fried Cheddar Cheese
Oddly what was overwhelming in the Lasorda was wonderful with the Sloppy Joe. The chili was more on point this time as well, meshing beautifully with the melty fried cheddar.

STATEN ISLAND - Meatball Burger/Provolone Cheese/Tomato Sauce/Basil Pesto
Chef Mahon sent this out as a gift to our table. An interesting concept, this definitely tasted more like a pasta dish than a burger. I'm glad I got to taste it, but for my money I'd stick to a more traditional burger.

FRIED CHICKEN - Watermelon/Feta/Arugula/Tarragon/Aged Sherry Vinaigrette
Despite being a burger place, I would highly recommend ordering the fried chicken. The salad is a take on one of Mahon's Bastide dishes. The sheer succulence of the watermelon was the perfect foil to the fried chicken. While the greens added a subtle vegetal nuttiness.

BELGIAN FRIES - Sea Salt
We ordered a second helping of the fries sans chili cheese to get a better feel for the fries themselves. Still quite enjoyable, the sea salt added an extra touch of flavor.

MURPHY’S STOUT FLOAT
On its own, the stout has an almost chocolatey finish to it, but the sweetness of the ice cream makes the beer taste bitter by comparison. Still this adults only version of a root beer float just feels apropos.

ICE CREAM SANDWICH
The last two desserts were gifts from the kitchen. First up was an ice cream sandwich, one chocolate chip cookie and one white chocolate chip cookie. The cookies had a delectable fresh baked aroma to them that was perfect with the cool creamy ice cream and chocolate fudge sandwiched in between.

BANANA BREAD PUDDING
The last dessert was a bannana bread pudding, dense and cakey with a slightly spiced sweetness to it.

Cooking Gangsta, Joseph Mahon, delivers the goods with Burger Parlor. Though not all the combinations worked for me, that was more due to personal preference than any failing on the staff's part. Quality is paramount at the Parlor and it isn't just burgers that Mahon does well, but the sides, salads and desserts as well. A small collection of upscale beers rounds out the experience. It isn't fine dining but it is good food and a damn good time.

Picca - 06/25/2011

2011-06-26T17:12:00.000-07:00

9575 West Pico Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90035
(310) 277-0133

The opening of Picca, Ricardo Zarate's Peruvian small plates restaurant has been on my culinary radar since I first heard about the restaurant during last fall. Zarate, best known for his restaurant Mo-Chica, was also "resident chef" at the hugely successful Test Kitchen as well as the restaurant's most prolific chef with 7 separate events. That I somehow missed them all only heightened my anticipation for Picca's arrival.

The past few days have been filled with family-style soft opening events but today's official opening is the first day that the full menu is available. Though I was tempted to attend the first night of the soft opening, I decided to wait in order to try all FIFTY courses in true opening night fashion.

I was very impressed by what Zarate's team did with the space. During the Test Kitchen era, the upper level was a tired orange walled space more suited to a cafeteria than a contemporary restaurant. Today, the dark wood space is highlighted by a brightly light bar and a brand new exhibition kitchen where the anticuchos and causa sushi are prepared.

RHUBARB SIDECAR - cognac, picaso, fresh lemon juice, rhubarb gastrique, shake violently, garnished with spiced sugar
It probably comes as no surprise, but all the drinks at Picca feature pisco, a Peruvian grape brandy. First up was a twist on the classic sidecar, the lemon juice and rhubarb mask the burn of the alcohol almost completely.

MARACUYA - fresh passion fruit, lemon juice, grenadine, scant absinthe, pisco, long hard shake (not too long) strain into flute 1/4 full of cava, lemon twist garnish
Another light floral libation, the Maracuya features a gentle sweetness layered over a lingering aroma of anise from the absinthe.

CHILCANO de ANIS - lime juice, ginger syrup, anise syrup, pisco, whip //mix quickly and vigorously, top with soda, pour over 3 cubes and crushed ice in copper mug, Garnish w/ mint sprig tapped around mug, 1 spray of pernod
The last cocktail was reminiscent of a ginger beer, spicy and lightly effervescent. I particularly enjoyed the copper cup which kept the drink ice cold.

empanada trio - beef, chicken, eggplant salad
The meal got off to a strong start with a buttery flaky crust around three distinctly different fillings. The eggplant salad featured a meaty tender feel and slight sweetness while the beef possessed a dark savory sweetness and the chicken reminded me of a Chinese curry pastry.

papa rellena - stuffed potatoes, slow cooked beef, boiled egg, rocoto aioli
The second course was a delicately soft potato filled with an olive tinged filling of dark savory beef. The exterior of the potato was lightly browned giving it a light savory flavor reminiscent of the fried potato cakes my dad used to make.

jalea mixta - crispy mixed seafood, tartare sauce
Despite being a relatively straightforward plate of mixed fried seafood, this was immensely satisfying. The seafood was perfectly cooked with fresh snappy textures under the light batter. The accompaniments included a classic tartare sauce and topping of salsa that provided a refreshing counterpoint.

tuna tartare - tuna, lemon soy dressing, wonton chips
Perhaps it is the result of going to higher caliber restaurants, but I've been enjoying tuna tartares again of late. Zarate's has classic sushi notes of soy and wasabi with a perfectly crisp savory wonton chip and fresh avocados to provide some levity and body.

grilled vegetables salad - market vegetables, mix greens, aji amarillo miso vinaigrette
Not being a fan of salads I wasn't expecting much from this course but it turned out to be unexpectedly delicious. The grilled onions have a wonderfully sweet aroma while the raw greens sound a lovely bitter note. The whole salad is finished with a mustard-tinged kick from the aji amarillo.

conchas a la parmesana - scallops, parmesan cheese, spianach, lemon sauce dressing
I was expecting something heavy and dense but this was absolutely brilliant. The spinach and scallop amalgam is coated in a ritzy Parmesan crust and the zippy citrus puts the dish over the top.

choritos - steamed mussels, pancetta, aji amarillo butter
This might be the best preparation of mussels that I've ever eaten. The mollusks were delightfully snappy and the rich broth of tomato and yellow pepper helps to counter the funky brine of the mussels.

chicharron de pollo - marinated crispy chicken, salsa criolla, rocoto sauce
Zarate's chicken "nuggets" were delicious in a guilty pleasure kind of way. The chicken is delectably moist but lightly seasoned, necessitating the rocoto sauce with a spiciness that hits hard and fades fast.

PISCO SOUR - pisco, fresh lemon and lime juice, sugar, cassia scented egg white, shake like a polaroid picture, angostura bitters
Pisco Sour is the national drink of Peru a frothy blend of pisco and citrus topped with a shaken egg white. The flavor is immensely clean and refreshing.

ALL SAINTS FIZZ - venezuelan rum, pisco, fresh lemon juice, evaporated cane sugar, frankincense tincture, soda
The fizz is remarkably like the pisco sour but with a bit more oomph!

MARTIN RICKY - lime juice, grapefruit juice, simple syrup, 2 dashes peychaud bitters, pisco, Whip, soda, pour over ice in collins topped with strawberry air
Most of the evening's cocktails had a similar feel, no surprise given that they all heavily featured pisco and citrus. This was the best drink of the night the strawberry air giving the drink and exuberantly sweet fruity aroma the others lacked.

scallops - mentaiko
Nigiri with potato? Given the Japanese influence on Peruvian food it was no surprise that Zarate would do his own take on sushi inspired by causa, a traditional Peruvian potato dish. First up was a scallop mixture that possessed a creaminess reminiscent of the filling in a California roll.

snow crab - cucumber, avocado, huancaina sauce
The second nigiri was a snow crab simple and sweet with a marked salinity.

spicy tuna - tobiko, cucumbers
Definitely classic spicy tuna. The fish is seasoned with a piquant mayo while the cucumbers add a light crunch.

albacore - garlic chip, ceviche sauce
This was my favorite of the causas, the albacore is slightly seared with an intense char reminiscent of the barracuda at Mori sushi. Easily the most flavorful and complex of the nonet that we would try

chicharron de costillas - crispy pork ribs crostini, sweet potato puree, feta cheese sauce, sauce criolla
This felt surprisingly light despite actually being one the large plates composed primarily of shredded pork covered in a sweet sauce. The overall effect was like a BBQ pulled pork sandwich

chicken - celery, cilantro, huancaina sauce
Hearty potato with shredded chicken slathered in mayo, this course reminded me of a classic chicken salad.

smoked salmon - hijiki, shallots, aji amarillo yogurt

A bit heavy for my tastes, the smoked salmon possessed a flavor akin to smoked ham that transcended the tang of te aji amarillo.

shrimp - pickled cucumbers, yuzu kosho guacamole
I normally find ebi at sushi restaurants to be lackluster but this was better than most. The shrimp still had a light snappiness while the topping added a scintillating liveliness.

spicy yellow tail - spicy mayo, green onions, wasabi tobiko
I expected this to be like the tuna but this felt a bit less polished. The accompaniments were similar but the yellow tail didn't have the presence to stand up to the mayo.

cristal - lager, peru
This wasn't the Cristal that I'm normally used to but it the clean classic lager profile was a nice pairing with the upcoming grilled meats.

cuzquena - lager, peru
Though still a lager, the Cuzquena had a bit more malty sweetness than the Cristal, on its own I preferred the Cuzquena but the cleaner flavor of the Cristal was more fitting with the food.

ceviche criollo - seabass, rocoto leche de tigre, choclo, sweet potato
Picca offers three types of ceviche first up was a classic sea bass, the plump succulent fish is marinated in a traditional brine and sweetened with grains of corn and chunks of sweet potato.

ceviche crocante - halibut, leche de tigre, crispy calamari
This was my favorite of the three ceviches, the halibut is uniquely textured, snappy, rough and almost grippy. Still the fish is soft compared to the crispy fried calamari which also gives the Crocante a uniquely savory tinge that the other ceviches lacked.

unagi - avocado, cucumber, eel sauce
This would have been a welcome addition to any sushi restaurant. The plump succulent eel is bathed in a classic sweet sauce while the potato adds a starchy heft that rice simply cannot match.

ceviche mixto - mixed seafood, sweet potato, choclo
The final ceviche was similar to the first, but I felt the mix of seafood didn't stand up as well to the accompaniments as the sea bass did though the raw hewn brine and crunch of the seaweed was most unexpected and welcome.

tres leches de tigre - rocoto, aji amarillo, sea urchin shooters
The trio of classic ceviche marinades were unabashedly briny and almost bitter; this felt like less of a course and more of a college dare. Still it was an interesting experiment to try the sauce sans fish.

oysters a la chalaca - pan fried oysters, cherry tomatoes sarsa
This was undoubtedly the best cooked oyster course I've ever tasted. Wrapped in a light crispy crust, the oysters were impressively complex sweet creamy and briny all wrapped together.

pollo - chicken breast, rocoto pesto
Consisting of grilled meat on a skewer, Anticuchos are a popular street food originating in Peru. Naturally the grilled meat draws comparisons with yakitori albeit with a Peruvian flair. First up was a grilled chicken breast, moist and flavorful this was the quintessential definition of grilled meat.

zapallo - kobocha, sweet miso sauce
While there are very few things that I refuse to eat outright, Kobocha is certainly one I struggle to enjoy. This wasn't actually so bad as the charcoal grill leeched some of the sweetness out of the squash.

seabass tiradito - thin slice sea bass, soy sauce, lemon dressing, sweet potato puree
I actually tried this dish earlier in the week at Providence. At the time I found the aji amrarillo a bit overwhelming, Since then he has tempered the acidity, resulting in a more cohesive spicy-sweet flavor.

tiradito de atun - tuna, soy ceviche dressing, sweet potato paste
The last of the raw fish courses was a seared tuna reminiscent of tataki. The clean fishy flavor of the tuna is sweetened by dabs of sweet potato while the sprouts add a bright grassy counterpoint.

beef filet - sea urchin butter, garlic chip
A classically tender filet, the meat was richer than most with a tangible butteriness, perhaps the result of the uni butter.

salmon - miso, pickled cucumber
A much more effective preparation than the causa, the fish almost exudes luxurious fish oils. The sweet miso gave the dish a flavor reminiscent of a miso black cod.

scallops - aji amarillo aioli, wasabi peas
Another strong scallops course, the aioli gives the shellfish some kick as well as a tart creaminess while the wasabi peas add an interesting textural note.

tomatoes - burata, black mint pesto
The grilled tomatoes were interesting but I don't know if I'd order them again. Coupled with the cheese and pesto the flavor was reminiscent of a rustic caprese salad crossed with a fresh tomato sauce.

papa a la huancaina - potato, quail egg, pancetta, chives
I had this course at Mario's and found it to be a bit bland so I was curious to see how Zarate would approach the course. With miniature eggs and potatoes this looked far more contemporary than Mario's preparation. The texture is dense and rough and even with the pancetta a bit bland. Certainly better than Mario's but it lacked the verve of many of the night's other dishes.

santa barbara prawns - lemon grass yuzu kosho pesto
This was easily the best of the anticuchos and probably the best course overall The woody essence of the charcoal is the perfect partner for the clean ocean-y essence of the shrimp.

alitas de pollo - chicken wings, lime
As basic as some of these dishes are they are so well-prepared and flavorful it's hard not to appreciate them. The wings are coated with a delightful golden brown skin and delectable succulent interior. The lime was a nice touch though the chicken was just as good without it.

black cod - miso anticucho, crispy sweet potato
Speaking of miso black cod, this was actually one of the stronger preparations of the dish. The pinkish flesh is almost gellied in texture and dissolves effortlessly on the tongue

corazon - beef heart, potato, rocoto sauce
Corazon or beef heart is the most popular style of anticucho. The meat is firm and sinewy with a flavor that is a cross between beef and liver, a perfume of rich meaty sapor and the iron kissed tang of offal.

camote - sweet potato, honey, serrano chili sauce
After the Kobocha, I was a bit optimistic about this course, but this reminded me of why I disdain sweet root vegetables. Combined with the honey and charm the result is a disconcerting cloying sweetness.

portabello mushroom - mustard sauce, micro green salad
The portabello was surprisingly strong, easily one of the better anticuchos. The golden brown cap hides a supple meaty interior with its unabashedly earthy essence. The weight of the mushrooms is balanced by a small salad of vegetal micro greens.

seco de pato - duck leg confit, black beer sauce, cilantro rice
I had a variation of this course not too long ago at Jaleo that I found a bit heavy-handed. Ricardo does a much better job, pairing aromatic southwestern style rice with a bitter beer sauce to counter the potent richness of the duck.

arroz chaufa de mariscos - mixed seafood, peruvian fried rice, radish pickled
Arroz Chaufa or fried rice is one of the more well known Chifa dishes. This didn't taste like a classic fried rice, but I actually enjoyed it quite a bit more. The flavor was more like the blend of ginger soy and scallions that accompanies steamed fish at the end of a banquet.

arroz con erizo - peruvian paella, mixed seafood, sea urchin sauce
The Peruvian take on paella looked similar to the seafood fried rice but with a deeper ocean flavor on account of the sea urchin sauce. The uni also gave the rice a heavier creamy texture similar to a risotto which I found quite enjoyable.

lorco de quinoa - quinoa pumpkin stew, choclo, parmesan cheese, crispy tomato stew
I had serious doubts about this course from the start so I wasn't surprised when I found this to be a disconcerting jumble of sweetness mixed with the cloying funk from the cheese and tart tomato stew.

bisteck a lo pobre - skirt steak, egg, pan fried banana, chickpeas tacu tacu
The meat was fairly typical for a skirt steak, moist, stringy, and flavorful. The duet of steak and eggs was quite enjoyable though I didn't need so much rice. By this point I was craving something sweet as a change of pace from the previous 40+ savory courses so I absolutely adored the fried plantains even though I normally abhor bananas.

chanfainita - braised oxtail, mote and potato stew
I was surprised not to see a Lomo Saltado on the dish but this was a similar if richer combination. The tender slow-cooked oxtail was smothered with a dark sauce and generous chunks of potato to provide a starchy base for the stew.

carapulcra - roasted black cod, peruvian sun dried potato stew, chimichurri
Nice to have black cod in a non miso based preparations. Honestly I couldn't bring myself to eat the stew at this point but the fish itself was wonderful, oily flaky with enough savoriness thanks to the skin.

sudado de lenguado - halibut stew, peruvian corn beer sauce, yuyo
The final savory was also one of the hardest to palate both physically and in terms of flavor. The fish is lost in a heavy broth of tomatoes and the intensely ripe acidity was simply overwhelming at this point.

cheese cake
I almost thought I was hearing things when our server said this was an aji amarillo cheesecake. This turned out much better than it had any right to with a distinctly savory with a flavor that one of my friends likened to Fritos cheddar cheese dip.

lemon tart
This turned out to be the best dessert of the night, buttery crust and an intensely bracing lemon tempered by the bright flavors of the passion fruit sauce.

tres leche cake
Still, one of my all time favorite desserts, tres leche cake is still a must order whenever I see it on the menu. Surprisingly as sweet as the cake can be, I thought it was a bit lost among all the fruit, especially the ripe raspberry syrup on the bottom.

churros
The final dessert consisted of churros filled with a some sort of cream that tasted like maple syrup or molasses and three dipping sauces: carob, cinnamon marmalade, and chocolate. The churro turned out to be good enough on its own that it didn't require any sauce though I would have liked a bit more crispness, the interior of the churro felt a bit moist.

My personal experience with Peruvian food is fairly limited aside from Zarate's Mo-Chica the only other Peruvian place I've been to was the famous Mario's Seafood and Picca outshines them both. Not to say their food was bad, but Picca elevates the cuisine with more exotic ingredients and an emphasis on freshness and quality. My one complaint was that the flavors felt a bit repetitive, though I think the fact that we had 46 savory courses might have had something to do with this. Taken in reasonable quantities, the heavy emphasis of spice and acidity was quite enjoyable, giving the meal a much lighter feel despite the heavy use of potatoes and rice.

Peruvians are renowned for their ceviches and Zarate certainly does that reputation justice but my favorite dishes were the anticuchos, simple yet with a sublime flavor from the use of bincho-tan a white charcoal made from ubame oak in japan. Picca was certainly worth the wait, as the food is soulful and immensely satisfying. Zarate deftly blends the numerous culinary traditions in Peruvian cuisine, serving up delicious fare in a lively fun and very social environment.

Four for Fish @ Providence - 06/20/2011

2011-06-21T03:14:00.000-07:00

5955 Melrose Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90038
(323) 460-4170

Michael Cimarusti seems to be the king of collaborative dinners in LA, be it the 5x5, Bocuse d'Or or Ibaraki benefit dinner. This time around, Cimarusti is hosting Hiro Urasawa, Ludovic Lefebvre, and Ricardo Zarate and the meal is not for charity but the first in a series of dinners to celebrate the release of Opinionated About Dining, a restaurant guide by old school blogger Steve Plotnicki. Though none of LA's restaurants earned 100 points, Urasawa (#7) and Providence (#28) do the city proud. Ludo with his ephemeral popup, LudoBites also earned a nod as a highly recommended restaurant. Though the price tag of $195 felt a bit high, the lure of Urasawa's name on the menu was more than enough to overcome my reluctance.

Amuse: mojito gelee and screwdriver bubble
True to form, Providence opened the meal with a pair of welcome cocktail candies. The icy mojito was at once refreshing and lively while the screwdriver bubble was juicy sweet.

Canape: abalone - with white miso, grilled over japanese charcoal
This was absolutely delicious, perhaps the single best piece of abalone I've ever had. The aroma of wood is immediately apparent and continues on the palate with a pervasive lingering smokiness.

Canape: japanese sword squid and spanish chorizo
Again the flavor of the grill is immediately apparent, giving the squid the strength to stand up to the salty tang of the chorizo.

01: seabass tiradito - aji amarillo sauce, sweet potato puree [ricardo zarate]
txakolina, xarmant arabako 2010
The slight sear gave the fish an elegant tenderness while the mild flavor lent itself well to the spicy tang of the aji amarillo. Though I'm not normally a fan of sweet potato, I thought the cool sweetness provided relief from the sting of the sauce.

02: hokkaido scallop and monkfish liver - caviar, pickled turnip, wasabi, shiso, miyga
red snapper and half-cooked botan ebi wrapped in seaweed - marinated radish, shiso, moyoga, and plum sauce [hiro urasawa]
junmai ginjo, hakkaisan
The snapper roll was actually a late addition to the meal. Though the fish and shrimp are a bit masked by the sauce, I enjoyed multifaceted crunch and the savory sweet interplay highlighted by overtones of nori; if only all sushi rolls were like this. Just a sublimely balanced dish, the troika of scallop, ankimo, and caviar combine into a symphony of sweet, unctuous and savory notes that compliment each other wonderfully. A garnish of pickled vegetables was provided as a palate cleanser of sorts between bites.

03: anticuchos of santa barbara spot prawns - with yuzu koshu [ricardo zarate]
grüner veltliner, obere steigen, markus huber 2009
Though I was underwhelmed by initial experiences with SB Spot Prawns, I have come to appreciate their delicate flavor and supple texture. This proved to be one of my favorite courses of the night. The minimalist presentation allows sweet briny shellfish to come through unadulterated but for a beautiful accented the tangy marinade which is further heightened by the punch of the yuzu koshu.

04: santa barbara sea urchin - champagne beurre blanc, fines herbs [michael cimarusti]
crémant de bourgogne blanc de blanc, domaine parigot & richard m.v.
Cimarusti's last uni course was easily one of the best things I've eaten all year and though this didn't reach such lofty heights it was still probably the best course of the evening. The butter sauce gives the dish a rich almost cheesy base infused with the livery brine of the uni. The base is a dense semi-cooked egg yolk while the croutons add just the right amount of textural contrast.

05: chawan wushi - summer truffles and ikura [hiro urasawa]
champagne, taittinger brut, cuvée prestige m.v.
I liked the concept of pairing egg custard with truffles, a Japanese take on the classic egg and truffle pairing. Though the custard itself is flawless, unfortunately the fragrance of the truffles ended up lost in the mix. The resultant flavor was a slightly fishy sweetness that reminded me of the dried anchovy snack I used to eat as a kid.

06: japanese freshwater eel - soba, soy milk [michael cimarusti]
riesling spätlese mosel, erben von beulwitz, kaseler nies'chen "alte reben" 2007
Cimarusti's second dish provides a very unique presentation of soba almost like toasted grains of buckwheat. The eel itself had a surprisingly salty skin that was countered by the classic eel sauce. The heavy flavors would have been overwhelming were it not for the slices of daikon.

07: lobster vaudovan - [ludovic lefebvre]
chardonnay, ettore germano 2009
I had some doubts about this course but they turned out to be completely unfounded. Ludo masterfully tempers the dark bitter vadouvan with an infusion of ripe citrus. The lobster is perfectly cook and its brine-tinged sweetness is still apparent through the sauce. Simply beautiful execution all around, the dish is rounded out with perfectly cooked carrots and bok choi as well as plump supple udon.

08: crème fraiche panna cotta - with alverta president caviar [ludovic lefebvre]
rivesaltes, rancio, grand guilhem m.v.
Long one of Ludo's signatures, the creme caramel and caviar remains a masterpiece of savory sweet ingenuity, a testament to how two equally intense and disparate flavors can meld into a single harmonious whole

09: mochi cake - blackberry and litchi, coconut-kaffir sorbet [adrian vasquez and 'the ladies of the pastry']
sainte-croix-du-mont, château la rame
Adrian's influence is immediately apparent in the composition and presentation of this dish. The blackberries look absolutely luscious but it is the mochi cake, that dominates this dish. Not the most flavorful component on the plate but its savory sweet griddle cake like flavor and dense "Q" texture are simply wonderful, just like mom makes at home.

With such impressive chefs it's hard to imagine this meal going awry but it can happen especially at these one off events. This turned out to be one of the smoother events, with guests being seated fairly promptly and the food coming out at a decent clip. More importantly the creativity that was on display was truly noteworthy, from start to finish a very well designed and well executed meal. Though I was initially a bit taken aback by the price Steve put together an event that justified the cost. I'm looking forward to his next event in LA.